Greetings!
There is one week a year when the picturesque town of Henley-on-Thames is in absolute chaos: it is at the start of July, during the world-famous Henley Royal Regatta. For six days, rowing crews race on the river, whilst well-heeled, well-dressed spectators watch from marquees on the bank. The Regatta has taken place since 1839 and is very much a British institution, one of the highlights of the social calendar. But oh my, the crowds! If you want to actually enjoy being in Henley, admiring its pretty architecture and wandering on the footpath alongside the Thames, visit at any other time of the year.
Henley feels quintessentially English, and public polls frequently find that it is one of the top places in the country to live. Every street is soaked in history: people have lived here since Roman times, and the town’s weekly market was awarded its charter in the 13th century by King John. The stone bridge across the Thames is listed as a heritage monument, and the parish church, town hall, and The Old Bell pub are all handsome buildings. To spend time in Henley is to leave the stresses of the 21st century behind.
The Relais Henley hotel is very much part of the town’s history. The original building was already in use as an inn in the 1530s: it houses the stonemasons, carpenters, and other craftsmen who were building the nearby Church of St Mary the Virgin. King Charles I stayed here, as did the First Duke of Marlborough. For much of its past, the building was known as The Red Lion, and its latest custodians (for they are not just owners) have been careful to preserve its character. I must say, they have done a wonderful job: there are wooden beams and centuries-old wall paintings, charming courtyards and even King Charles’ four-poster bed!
I am staying in a riverside room looking out on the Thames. Now and then, a pleasure boat floats by. The blue and white furnishings have an appropriately nautical feel, and the ancient beams overhead also made me think of the ribs of a ship.
I rose slowly and lazily this morning; Henley is not the kind of place you need to rush. The hotel has its own delicatessen, The Henley Deli, so if you do get up too late for breakfast, it doesn’t matter: you can easily pick up freshly brewed coffee and vitamin-rich smoothies, plus a decadently flaky pastry or cake. All of these goodies are baked daily, and the smell of soft, warm scones will start any stomach rumbling.
In Henley, the river is never far away, and as the weather was fine, I headed out on the footpath, through water meadows towards Sonning. This is part of the Thames Path, a long distance walking trail which would take you all the way to the source of the river in the Cotswolds, if you had time. I can see the first signs of spring: a tiny white snowdrop here and there, and daffodils almost ready to bloom. The birds still look a little chilly, but nevertheless they are darting here and there, building their nests and preparing for the arrival of their chicks.
The days are getting longer, pushing sunset back to a more sensible time, but I still made sure I was back at the hotel well in advance of nightfall, to wash and brush up and enjoy a pre-dinner drink in the bar. In summer, you could have an aperitif in the courtyard, but for now, it is not quite warm enough. Instead, I sat cosily in the Quarterdeck Bar, which continues the boat theme of the guestrooms. There is a good line up of cocktails and mocktails, plus an enviable whisky list.
Dinner is served at Restaurant Dominic Chapman. Chapman has cooked in some of the UK’s best restaurants, including Heston Blumentha’s Fat Duck at Bray, but you can see that it is his eponymous restaurant here in Henley which has his heart.
The menu is uncompromisingly British: dishes are simple, wholesome, and delicious. The fried Cornish squid with garlic mayonnaise and paprika melts on your tongue, and you would be hard pressed to find a finer fish than the smoked haddock with bubble and squeak – a traditional favourite made with shredded brussel sprouts, onion, and mashed potato. Dominic offers his own take on fish and chips, elevating this usually humble takeaway dish to another level; and if you do still have space for dessert, his sticky toffee pudding is second to none. I wish that I had saved more room for the cheeses, though, because with names like Stichelton and Stinking Bishop, they certainly caught my attention, and I don’t feel that I did them justice.
Next time you are visiting the UK, do seriously think about taking a short break in Henley. The town is little over half an hour’s drive from Heathrow Airport, so it is faster to get here than into central London. It’s a marvelous place to relax.
See you soon,
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