Monkey Island Estate - Bray

It is a little-known fact that there is a private island in the River Thames, a short drive west from London on the edge of the idyllic Berkshire village of Bray. This island’s history dates back 800 years, when it was first inhabited by monks, but it owes its current size (7 acres) and shape to the Great Fire of London in 1666: rubble from buildings destroyed in the fire was transported upstream on barges, expanding the amount of land above the waterline. The island — named either after the original monks, or perhaps because of the myth that King George III was banished here with his pet monkey — became a hedonistic escape for princes and playboys, close enough to the capital to be convenient, but out of the sight of disapproving eyes. The English classical composer Edward Elgar wrote his First Symphony Violin Concerto here, and writers HG Wells and Siegfried Sassoon also visited in the island’s golden era.

Today, Monkey Island and the Grade 1 listed heritage buildings set upon it belong to the luxurious YTL Hotels group. Plenty of the historic features have been preserved and restored, so the Georgian dukes who once frequented this place would approve; but the owners have updated the property for a discerning, 21st century clientele, and it’s easily one of southern England’s most sought-after hotels.

I checked in on one of the hottest days of the summer, parking on the riverbank and crossing the footbridge onto the island. It feels, literally and metaphorically, like a bridge between two worlds, the waters of the Thames creating a dividing line between reality and a dream world.

My home for the weekend was the magnificent Wedgewood Suite, named after the famous 18th century English porcelain manufacturer which is known for its distinctive blue and white jasperware.

The suite is decorated with the same color scheme and was once the estate’s library, suitably grand with its dark wood panelling, huge windows overlooking the gardens, and a fireplace topped with an oil painted portrait.

In the early evening, just as the heat of the day had begun to subside, I stepped out to the jetty, where bar manager Luke awaited me with a boat. Monkey Island makes the most of its location: you can book a self-drive riverboat or a chauffeured river tour, cruising gently along the Thames towards Maidenhead or Henley. You share the waterway with rowing boats and canoes, paddle boards and an occasional swimmer, whilst walkers and their dogs saunter along the Thames Path on the riverbank. The idea of having continental breakfast aboard very much appeals, as does a twilight cocktail made with Monkey Island’s bespoke, small batch gin, YTL Gin.

It was from the jetty that I first spotted Monkey Island’s floating spa, surely the only one of its kind in the British Isles, if not the world. Moored alongside the island, it is a traditional English narrow boat, built for goods and people to move along relatively shallow canals. Historically, such boats would have been pulled along by horses plodding along the tow path, long before the invention of a diesel engine, and although they are no longer used to transport cargo, they have become popular leisure craft.

The spa’s reception is in the boat’s wheelhouse, where you can sit, relax, and enjoy a drink. The boat sits low in the water, so if you look out of the window you might well come face to face with a goose or swan. Both species think they own the island, much to the gardeners’ chagrin.

Onboard the boat, there are three separate treatment rooms, all individual cabins which would make any ship’s captain green with envy. It feels like a very exclusive yacht. You can book a treatment alone or as a couple. The latter would be a very romantic addition to any weekend getaway.

I opted for a massage, 90 minutes of quiet serenity. The boat rocks gently, lulling you towards sleep, whilst the combination of botanical infused products and experienced hands work away the knots and tension. The Floating Spa’s signature treatment is the appropriately named The Monk’s Elixir, which takes its inspiration not only from the monks who once lived here but also the concept of an apothecary’s barge. Ancient wisdom comes to the fore in the preparation of essential oils infused with arnica, angelica, and even frankincense. The smells are potently herbal, adding another sensory dimension to the experience whilst at the same time encouraging you to breathe deeply and slowly.

Minute by minute, I could feel the stresses of the working week subside. Muscles which had become tight from too many hours hunched at my desk steadily unwound. As they did, my mind stopped racing and a calmness descended. By the time the treatment ended, I was so relaxed that I could have napped for hours: I was hardly in a state to move!

The only thing which could arouse me was the prospect of dinner. Extreme relaxation, it seems, stimulates the appetite. Showered and changed into something a little more elegant, I wandered back across the island’s pristine lawn to the terrace of The Monkey Bar. The Monkey Vesper was a must on a gorgeous evening, and it set the scene for an imaginatively curated dinner in the neighboring Monkey Brasserie.

Both the bar and the restaurant are open to non-residents as well as guests, and understandably, plenty of boaters had stopped by for a meal. The softest beef carpaccio and home cured salmon with a tangy lemon goats cheese demonstrated that the chef could do classics well, but it was with the main courses that he found his stride. I’ve never previously seen kimchi paired with beef fillet and tiger prawns, nor had the chance to enjoy duck breast balanced with beetroot. Cod with sautéed courgette and braised fennel, crispy kale, and a champagne sauce stole the show, though, and was a delicious light option, accompanied by an excellent bottle of wine.

www.monkeyislandestate.co.uk