The city of Florence was at the center of the Italian Renaissance. It is a city which has always demonstrated its extreme wealth and taste in its opulent architecture and interiors. For architects and art lovers, fans of history and literature, and anyone with a romantic streak, it is the ultimate European destination. And after a meticulous restoration, reviving its centuries of splendor, Palazzo Portinari Salviati is back in action, welcoming a new generation of guests.
To stay at Palazzo Portinari Salviati is to journey back in time to the 1400s. This was the home of Beatrice Portinari, the famed muse of the poet Dante Alighieri; and also, later, of Cosimo de’Medici, the Grand Duke of Tuscany. Between these hallowed walls you will find magnificent frescoes and painted ceilings, marble, and terracotta floors, and you will be following in the footsteps of generations of royals and nobles, poets and artists, muses and patrons. In recognition of its history and the luxurious nature of its renovation, Palazzo Portinari Salviati has been selected as one of the newest members of the prestigious Leading Hotels of the World group.
In a city – indeed in an entire country – renowned for its cuisine, it is not easy for a hotel restaurant to stand out. But chef Vito Mollica has created an unforgettable culinary experience at Palazzo Portinari Salviati, which well deserves its Michelin star.
The restaurant in question, ATTO di Vito Mollica, lies within the hotel’s Corte degli Imperatori. This magnificent space is in the oldest part of the building, and it represents the very pinnacle of sixteenth century Florentine design. The frescoes on the walls were painted by Alessandro Allori, who led one of Florence’s most important art workshops and is also responsible for the altarpiece, Christ and the Samaritan Woman, at the city’s Santa Maria Novella Church. On the restaurant’s ceiling you will find fine stained glass framed with wooden panelling, and the busts of notable Florentines line the walls.
For Mollica, cooking is an act of love. Every dish is a gesture through which he conveys his passion and dedication to his artform, as well as being able to show off his creativity. His love for food also encompasses respect of the earth, and for the producers who have made his ingredients. This commitment is evident in his commitment to seasonal, locally produced dishes, to freshness and quality. In his own words,
“Every time of the year is the opportunity to invent something new starting from what nature and the tireless local producers know how to offer.”
What masterpieces, then, can you expect to try? ATTO di Vito Mollica does have an à la carte menu, but for the full breadth of this gastronomic experience, it is best to opt for the constantly changing tasting menu. You don’t know quite which dishes the chef wants to prepare until you are seated, but the surprise is part of the pleasure, and whatever the combination, you can be sure it will taste, smell, and look incredible. Some dishes, like softly boiled egg with morel mushrooms, and Jerusalem artichoke may sound familiar, but invariably will be prepared with a twist; others, such as grilled pigeon with rhubarb and currants, are quite unexpected. If you do have the chance to try it, the carpaccio of roasted Wagyu sirloin, served with armagnac and summer mushrooms, is absolutely out of this world, a meal once tasted you will never forget.
Working in harmony with Mollica is the restaurant’s expert sommelier, Clizia Zuin. Zuin keeps a cellar of around 850 labels, ably balancing historical brands and small producers in her collection. Her choice of Italian wines, in particular those from Tuscany, is unrivalled in Florence, and probably for quite some distance beyond. Whatever you choose to eat, Zuin will be able to find the perfect pairing for you; leave yourself in her capable hands and prepare for an education in wine.
ATTO di Vito Mollica is not your only culinary choice at Palazzo Portinari Salviati, however, and if you are staying for two nights or more, you should certainly explore the hotel’s other dining options. Head bartender Matteo Sanago welcomes you to EYE Cocktail Bar, one of the building’s few contemporary spaces, where 14 guests can sit at the bar. It is well worth choosing one of these front row seats as Sangao’s cocktail mixing is quite the spectacle.
The cocktail menu is an experiment in modern mixology. Of course, you can opt for a classic drink, but where’s the fun in that? Trust Sangao’s judgement and let him mix you a Brera with Campari, orange bitter, elderflower, and lemongrass scent; or perhaps a Mama o No? with chamomile infused Mitcher’s Bourbon whiskey, cold brew coffee, tonka bean, and sandalwood. You can’t imagine the explosion of flavors and how remarkably they work together until you have been fortunate enough to taste them for yourself.
The chances are that you will want to drink two or even three of Sangao’s creations in an evening, so there will be ample time to try a few bar snacks at the same time. Throw out any ideas you might have of picking at nuts and chips; here you will find crisp vegetable samosas with mango chutney, dried plums accompanied by smoked bacon, and freshly fried squid doused in lime juice and chilli pepper.
Last but certainly not least, plan a meal at Salotto Portinari Bar & Bistrot, an elegant room where a casual breakfast gives way to more formal but never pretentious dining later in the day. Accessible directly from Via del Corso, one of Florence’s oldest streets, this restaurant has a reasonable claim to be the city’s most fashionable living room. It is the perfect location to rendezvous with a lover or to catch up with an old, dear friend.
Chefs at Salotto Portinari have curated a menu which is strongly Tuscan. It is tempting to just order appetizers: San Filippo anchovies with burrata and artichokes in oil; raw tuna and amberjack, marinated spring onion and citrus sauce; and veal with tuna with piquillo pepper all jump out from the list. If you do have the appetite for something more substantial, however, the guinea fowl supreme with sautéed friggitelli peppers is a dish you won’t forget in a hurry!
However late you dine at Palazzo Portinari Salviati, there’s a reassurance in knowing that your room or suite is only a few minutes’ walk away. Few views can compare with those of the Executive Grand Suite Lionardo Salviati and the Executive Grand Suite Galileo, both of which look straight across at the red dome of the Duomo. Florence is iconic; and it doesn’t get any better than this.
www.lhw.com/hotel/palazzo-portinari-salviati-florence-italy
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