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Surf’s Up at Kimpton Beachcomber

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Miami Beach, Florida                        by Ava Rosales

When my husband and I received the invitation to the Kimpton Surfcomber + Spa for a “sleepover”, there was absolutely no hesitation. I was never one for sleepovers in my childhood days, but let me tell you, doing one as an adult takes on its own special feel.  The hubby needed no convincing. His immediate response was, “Is that where we had that amazing steak?” After the emotional and physical wear and tear of the last few months, a respite was just what this doctor ordered. I’m sure a medical doctor would agree, as well. The countdown for departure was on and the wardrobes were packed. Yes, wardrobes, even for an overnighter, after all, you must have your arrival outfit, then the change for dinner, sleepwear, loungewear, and beachwear. I know what you’re thinking- thank heavens it was only one night. Being on South Beach though, with the array of activities and venues to indulge in, one can’t be overprepared. From sunning by the surf to dazzling on the dancefloor, it can be nonstop from sunrise to sunrise, and everything is within a mile of the Surfcomber.

Upon arrival at our sleepover, our cellphone number was taken by the valet and front desk. Their new system of communicating is through text message which gives you the freedom to untether from the resort and still maintain instantaneous contact. We were greeted with a scrub based welcome cocktail and would soon learn more about that tasty concoction. He later engaged us with our very own scrub making class with dragon fruit as the base topped with mescal. The new food and beverage director, Luis, curates experiences for guests such as a daily happy hour from 5 pm – 6 pm offering wine and light bites, the perfect boost to start your stay. As with our previous experiences with the resort, although staff may change, the hospitality and passion for their craft remains unwavering, much to the credit of the general manager, Mohan, who has been a constant there for more than a decade.

There was just enough time to run to the room after cocktail making to freshen up for dinner and don one of the multiple outfits. The executive chef, Gastón, entertained every mouthful of our 6-course tasting menu with his captivating stories of why each ingredient in our sumptuous dishes were selected with care and purpose. The hubby hung on every word and was mesmerized by each morsel, encouraging me to join him on the journey. The burgundy snails were his favorite. I think the visualization of how they were particularly grown and foraged in a specific natural environment made it that much more appealing. Admittedly, I’m not a foodie, but the fall off the bone bison short rib enticed me to dive into that realm momentarily.  The pairing coined David and Goliath aptly described the majestic beef meeting the mighty mollusk. The feast featured other clever names for the various courses such as Ménage à Trois which included seared diver scallops, sable fish and chargrilled maitake and leeks. The Soleil was one of my favorite dishes with crisp frisée, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, haricot verts, shaved fennel, cabrales, a shallot vinaigrette and asiago glass. Why glass? Because the cheese was frozen with liquid nitrogen and smashed like glass. The dramatic demonstration of the process carried out in front of our eyes by Chef Gaston. He further reminded us of his talent with an edible chocolate seascape complete with sand, surfboard and palm tree that was delivered to our room while we dined.

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The next morning, we didn’t want to miss a moment of the sleepover by staying in bed, as much as the pillows beckoned us to remain. For a quick workout while the onsite gym was under construction, there was access next door and other options nearby, the hubby opted to venture out on a bike ride to the South Beach gym. I took a scenic walk to the beach through the garden, across the boardwalk and onto the pristine sand. There, I encountered staff setting up games and cleverly raking art deco shapes in the sand. The motto on the staff gazebo which read “Life is better at the beach”, was so apropos. All the noise of the reality that I had escaped from just 24 hours ago had long been erased from the recess of my mind. I secured a lounge chair, towels and an umbrella and basked in the sunlit warmth of the morning surveying the majestic ocean. All was well and at peace. The only thing that pulled me away was our need to have breakfast which consisted of cold pressed juices, waffles, an omelet and of course, the hubby had to have steak and eggs. We spent the early afternoon in the upper deck cabana, drinking and dining on tapas while surveying the property and mingling with guests. It was a delightful way to bid adieu to the South of France-inspired ambience that the Surfcomber has created.

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I also love how the Kimpton shares its experiences globally amongst their sister resorts. Earlier in the year we were able to experience the incomparable concoctions served up by the Library by the Sea premier cocktail bar from the  Kimpton Seafire Resort and Spa on Grand Cayman during their tour to Miami Rum Congress since one of the host sites was the Kimpton Surfcomber + Spa. Cocktails were shaken and served personally by Jim Wrigley from the Library and Mitch Wilson of Black Tot Rum. They served up some of their famous twists on Ernest Hemingway mixes. Jim certainly knows how to spin a yarn of cocktail concoctions and literary connections. I could imagine that on Grand Cayman it isn’t your traditional library visit but you’ll certainly leave just a little more educated, nonetheless.

There’s so much to experience at the Kimpton Surfcomber + Spa with their frequent events and in the surrounding vicinity. Whether you’re staying a week, overnight, or even on a day pass for the pool or spa, the Kimpton Surfcomber + Spa is part of a brand of luxurious boutique resorts that guarantees excellence and an experience that is uniquely out of the ordinary from savory flavors to soul searching experiences – the perfect getaway.

Swellegant Stays: The Welbeck, London

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Marylebone is one of London’s most stylish and intriguing areas to visit. Go back a thousand years and it was little more than a village, a parish with manor houses well outside the city. But as London expanded, little Marylebone was swallowed up into the City of Westminster. It gentrified, and glamorous Welbeck Street became known for its private medical practices, ballroom, and Egyptian Rooms auction house, as well as for being home to a lively line-up of intellectuals and socialites. The Welbeck Palace Hotel was commissioned in 1907 and in the course of the 20th century reinvented itself many more times, before being born in its latest incarnation, The Welbeck, in February 2025.

Behind the hotel’s grand Edwardian facade are 164 exquisite rooms and suites designed by the award-winning architecture and interior design company Studio Moren. There is a nod to the building’s history in the rooms’ Art Deco-inspired decor, but even the use of gold is tastefully understated. If you are treating yourself (or a loved one) to a swanky weekend away, book one of The Welbeck’s gorgeous suites, complete with boldly painted ceilings and classy art prints on the walls.

The Welbeck’s sustainable bathroom amenities are by Templespa, and if you need expert help to unwind, there is always RUUBY, an in-room beauty concierge service delivering massage, facials, and other beauty and wellness treatments. This embodies the hotel’s mantra: “Stay Well, Travel Well, and Be Well.” The commitment to an active, healthy lifestyle continues through the design of the 24-hour gym, calming pillow sprays to improve your quality of sleep, and even the choice of items on the breakfast menu. Start the day with The Welbeck Ginger Shot – which includes a pinch of cayenne pepper – and you will soon be wide awake and ready to face the world!

The hotel’s Welbecker Bar morphs over the course of 24 hours from cozy retreat serving teas, coffees, and light meals, to a lively cocktail bar. It’s open to guests and locals alike. Line up a couple of the bar tender’s signature drinks, perhaps accompanied by a little snack like porcini arancini or beetroot carpaccio, and relax here late into the evening.

www.thewelbeckhotel.com

Swellegant Stays: Bawe Island, Zanzibar

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The name Zanzibar means “Black Coast”, but what I see in this idyllic archipelago are snow white beaches lapped by gentle waves of the turquoise sea, with a bright blue sky overhead. Bawe Island by The Cocoon Collection is one of Zanzibar’s newest and most exclusive resorts, a 15 minute speed boat ride from the capital, Stone Town.

Arriving by water, you immediately appreciate the privacy of this 30 hectare island. The resort’s 30 luxurious villas are nestled amongst the trees, which provide cool shade and ensure you are never overlooked as you take a dip in your private pool, with an uninterrupted view of the marine reserve and the Indian Ocean beyond.

Rising in the morning to the sound of the waves, the first person you are likely to see is your private butler: his services come as standard if you book a spectacular overwater Lagoon Suite with Pool, which will accommodate up to three adults. If you’re travelling with a larger family group or friends, opt for a Zanzibar Villa or the opulent Sultan Palace, which is one of a kind. The villas are equipped with international brands – bed linens and towels by Frette, bathroom by Villeroy & Boch, and coffee machines by Nespresso – but the textiles, furniture, and objets d’art have a much more local feel. In many cases, they’re the work of Tanzanian artists and designers.

You will come to Bawe Island for rest and relaxation, but if you fancy a more active vacation, or even an active afternoon, there’s plenty to see and do. Make the most of the island location with water sports and diving in the marine reserve; cycle around the island on a customized bike; or build up a sweat on the tennis court. There are yoga and pilates classes and, of course, a sublime spa.

Everything you eat on Bawe Island is included in the rate, and sometimes the most serious decision you will have to make during the day is where to eat. Will it be Japanese teppanyaki beneath the giant baobab tree at the Rising Sun? Do you want to be entertained by chefs’ live cooking stations at The Sand? Or is what you really want a pizza or other comfort food at Sinfonia or The Beach Club? The choice, of course, is yours!

www.baweisland.com

In the Heart of the West End

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London has a rhythm all its own—fast, fashionable, and endlessly fascinating. But tucked just off the electric pulse of Leicester Square, I discovered a rare and luxurious exhale. My husband David and I were recently invited to experience The Londoner,  and let me tell you: this is not your average city stay. This is ‘the’ super boutique hotel where cultural cool meets unapologetic indulgence, and where a stay doesn’t just place you in the center of the city—but above it all.

From the moment we entered the grand lobby, enveloped in elegant textures and warm tones, we knew this was something special. We were escorted to the Corner Suite, one of the hotel’s most illustrious spaces. The design was flawless—Yabu Pushelberg’s signature sophistication wrapped in floor-to-ceiling windows that overlooked the city like a cinematic skyline. It was the kind of suite you don’t want to leave, until you realize The Londoner has created a hotel ‘meant’ to be explored beyond your room.

Down below, quite literally, lies one of my favorite features: The Retreat. A subterranean sanctuary designed for rest, wellness, and total recalibration. I melted into a 90-minute facial curated from the hotel’s new partnership with Omorovicza, the Hungarian skincare brand known for its healing thermal water rituals. There’s something inherently transformative about being in London’s buzzy theatre district one moment, and then in a candlelit cocoon of detoxifying calm the next. I emerged with skin that glowed like I’d just returned from the islands.

Speaking of theatre—The Londoner’s packages have their finger on the cultural pulse. We were treated to front-row seats to Brie Larson’s haunting turn as Elektra, a performance that was as electric as it was unexpected. Between shows and strolls through Soho, we soaked in a world-class exhibition of Cartier jewels at the V&A, and wandered next door for **Siena: The Rise of Painting, 1300–1350** at the National Gallery. The hotel has truly mastered the art of the curated stay—pairing culture with convenience, and luxury with legacy.

And when we needed a break from it all? A Vintage Champagne afternoon tea was served in-suite, followed by in-room hydration therapy (a game-changer after long-haul travel), and a languid evening in The Residence—a guest-only haven with its own bar, library, and snug corners for lounging or sipping cocktails before dinner.

Though we didn’t opt for it this trip, The Londoner’s “Live Like the Ultimate Londoner” experience is now on my travel bucket list: Rolls Royce chauffeur, a private chef, Selfridges personal shopping, and even a bespoke perfume profiling at Miller Harris. Yes, please.

As part of the Edwardian Hotels London collection—alongside the iconic May Fair Hotel—The Londoner is still privately owned and family run, which perhaps explains the incredible attention to detail and warmth throughout the experience. It feels personal, not performative.

So many luxury hotels talk about being an “oasis in the city,” but The Londoner delivers. With 350 rooms, six concept eateries, private screening rooms, and a ballroom fit for a royal fête, it’s a love letter to London—layered, luminous, and always inviting you back for more.

And for us? It’s officially our go-to London address.

Until next time…

Travel Stories

Surf’s Up at Kimpton Beachcomber

Miami Beach, Florida                        by Ava Rosales When my husband and I received the invitation...

Swellegant Stays: The Welbeck, London

Marylebone is one of London’s most stylish and intriguing areas to visit. Go back a thousand years and it was little more than a...

Swellegant Stays: Bawe Island, Zanzibar

The name Zanzibar means “Black Coast”, but what I see in this idyllic archipelago are snow white beaches lapped by gentle waves of the...

In the Heart of the West End

London has a rhythm all its own—fast, fashionable, and endlessly fascinating. But tucked just off the electric pulse of Leicester Square, I discovered a...

Double the Bliss

OFFERS MORE THAN JUST SUN-SOAKED BEACHES AND TURQUOISE WATERS—IT’S A DESTINATION WHERE TRANQUILITY AND THRILL LIVE SIDE BY SIDE.Sardinia offers more than just sun-soaked...

Double the Bliss

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OFFERS MORE THAN JUST SUN-SOAKED BEACHES AND TURQUOISE WATERS—IT’S A DESTINATION WHERE TRANQUILITY AND THRILL LIVE SIDE BY SIDE.

Sardinia offers more than just sun-soaked beaches and turquoise waters—it’s a destination where tranquility and thrill live side by side. This Italian island is a dreamscape for travelers seeking both serenity and stimulation, from lounging on untouched coastlines to hiking rugged inland trails. Whether you crave the calming rhythm of ocean waves or the adrenaline of exploring ancient ruins and wild terrain, Sardinia delivers in full. Its rich culture, mouthwatering cuisine, and breathtaking natural beauty create the perfect backdrop for a getaway that satisfies every mood. In Sardinia, every day offers a choice: unwind, explore—or do both.

For those seeking the perfect base to experience both the restful and adventurous sides of Sardinia, planning your trip with Access Italy, the Italian Destination Management Company founded by the Amorico Family, allows guests to experience the best the island has to offer. Whether it is a boat tour to Maddalena Archipelago, a visit to La Maddalena Island, or visiting the fortress-houses called Nuraghe La Prisgiona and stopping at a local winery to taste the typical wine produced organically in this territory, you can experience the best tailor-made tours in Sardinia as well as throughout Italy.

And for the best stay, the family-run Delphina Hotels & Resorts: an eco-conscious luxury group renowned for blending five-star comfort with a deep respect for nature nestled in the northern Sardinia away from mass tourism. With a curated collection of 12 hotels, six world-class spas, elegant residences and private villas, Valle dell’Erica Resort Thalasso & SPA and Hotel Capo d’Orso Thalasso & SPA standout to offer a blissful summer getaway.

Just minutes from Santa Teresa Gallura, Valle dell’Erica Resort Thalasso & SPA spans 28 hectares of unspoiled nature, overlooking the protected Bocche di Bonifacio reserve and the nearby La Maddalena Archipelago. With its origins dating back to 1958—when it became Sardinia’s first tourist village—this five-star eco-resort has evolved into a haven of barefoot sustainable luxury with timeless Sardinian charm.

The resort’s design celebrates Gallura’s heritage, with handcrafted ceramics, local woodwork, and textiles from the village of Aggius. Each room is thoughtfully styled with artisanal touches, while trails wind through Mediterranean shrubland, leading to hidden coves like Cala Santa Maria and Cala Spargiotto. It’s a place where time slows and nature speaks in every breeze and wave. A true highlight is the Le Thermae Thalasso Centre & SPA, featuring four outdoor seawater pools at varying temperatures, some designed for hydro-fitness and others for deep relaxation. Their signature treatment, Water Therapy, uses warm seawater for weightless, muscle-relieving therapy guided by expert hands—an unforgettable sensory experience. The center follows international thalassotherapy protocols, using pure seawater sourced far offshore, providing real health benefits from improved circulation to skin renewal.

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With culinary experiences being central to life at Valle dell’Erica, the property is home to seven restaurants, allowing guests to enjoy a gourmet journey through Sardinian cuisine. From the traditional flavors of Li Ciusoni, where porceddu and seadas are served against fiery Mediterranean sunsets, to the elegance of Li Zini, where you can dine barefoot on the sand with a plate of oysters and lobster, each meal is an experience. Guests can even join complimentary cooking classes to learn local secrets firsthand.

For couples or honeymooners, the resort offers several ultra-exclusive suites—some with private pools. At the highest point of the resort, immersed in a private wood surrounded by holm oaks, the 2,000 sq. ft. Penthouse Archipelago Suite is one of the most luxurious on the island. This three-bedroom suite provinces spectacular views of the La Maddalena Archipelago and the Straits of Bonifacio and is the true oasis of privacy.

Tucked between the Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena Archipelago, Hotel Capo d’Orso Thalasso & SPA brings an entirely different rhythm—a slower, more intimate tone perfect for couples. Named after the granite bear-shaped mountain it sits beneath, this secluded retreat recently joined The Leading Hotels of the World, affirming its place among the world’s most distinguished destinations.

Surrounded by ancient olive trees and junipers, Capo d’Orso is all about refined relaxation. Guests wake to harp-accompanied breakfasts with sweeping views, then spend their days lounging in hammocks, swimming in hidden bays like Cala Capra, or enjoying a massage in a gazebo enveloped by myrtle and sea breezes.

The 80 handcrafted rooms blend modern comforts with authentic Sardinian design, offering peace and privacy in equal measure. The resort’s L’Incantu Thalasso & Spa Centre is a jewel in the crown. Developed in partnership with award-winning skincare brand Natura Bissé, the spa offers exclusive treatments such as 3D collagen firming rituals and the Inhibit Face Lift. Outdoors, guests can soak in three heated seawater thalasso pools, surrounded by Mediterranean greenery and sculpted granite, creating the ultimate escape into well-being.

Dining here is just as extraordinary. Gli Olivastri offers a romantic terrace breakfast with views of Caprera island, while Il Paguro serves fresh seafood by Cala Capra beach. For an unforgettable evening, Ile Flottante provides a floating platform dining experience surrounded by the turquoise sea—elevating romantic dinners to a dreamlike level. Capo d’Orso is also a gateway to discovery. Guests can embark on luxury boat excursions to nearby islands, explore Corsica’s historic town of Bonifacio, or even charter a private 1927 Norwegian sailing vessel, the Pulcinella, for an old-world maritime adventure. The resort’s private marina also offers helicopter transfers for panoramic aerial views of the archipelago. Sports lovers can tee off on a panoramic 9-hole Pitch & Putt course or enjoy water activities like snorkeling, canoeing, and fishing.

So whether you’re drawn to Sardinia for its untamed coastlines, its refined comforts or rich cultural tapestry, Delphina’s twin jewels invite you to experience double the bliss. Come for the beauty, stay for the serenity—and leave with your spirit renewed.

Whispers of Wellness

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There are places in this world that offer a retreat. And then there are places that, from the moment you arrive, seem to breathe with you—exhaling calm, inhaling your stress, and holding you in a perfect state of wonder. Cowley Manor, nestled just outside Cheltenham in England’s picturesque Cotswolds, is undeniably the latter.

It had been a busy season of travel, events, and unrelenting calendars. When David and I arrived at Cowley Manor for a two-night stay, we didn’t just want relaxation—we craved restoration. As our car wound through the manicured countryside, the landscape gently unfolded into an estate that looked like it had leapt from the pages of a fairytale. The manor’s honeyed stone façade stood tall amidst verdant gardens, its grandeur balanced by a laid-back, almost flirtatious air that made it feel less like a museum and more like a well-loved secret. Room 30 was our sanctuary. A suite that faced the estate’s gardens, it was bathed in natural light and the hush of rustling trees. The interiors struck a harmonious balance—classic English elegance tinged with modern whimsy. Floor-to-ceiling windows framed a view that could rival any oil painting, while rich fabrics, curated design touches, and the most comfortable bed we’d sunk into in months reminded us: this was not just another stay. This was a curated experience. Mornings at Cowley don’t rush you. They invite you. We awoke to birdsong and soft spring sunlight filtering through the curtains.

Our first morning began with a private yoga session with the luminous Stephanie in the Garden Room. Now, I’ve practiced yoga in many corners of the world—on rooftops in Rome, beaches in Bali—but there was something uniquely grounding about being in that space. Stephanie’s approach was gentle yet invigorating. Her flow was intuitively matched to our energy, and as we moved through each pose, the garden just beyond the glass seemed to echo our breath. It was a moment of pure stillness

that lingered long after the final namaste. After class, we slipped into the lounge where two frosted glasses of detox cocktails were waiting. Cowley doesn’t just serve drinks—they serve experiences. Ours was a mix of citrus, herbs, and something mysteriously effervescent that seemed to clear both palate and mind. Sipping slowly in the mid-morning light, the velvet sofas and curated art around us made it feel like we were in a friend’s sumptuous salon—if that friend had impeccable taste and a private chef.

But the highlight of our day—perhaps the entire trip—was the Sound Healing & Ice Bath workshop led by Phillip Campbell and Kathy. I’ll admit, the idea of plunging into icy waters wasn’t something I had enthusiastically anticipated. But as Phillip and Kathy gently introduced us to the philosophy of Tribal Breath, we were both intrigued. Their energy was magnetic, calming, and quietly powerful. The sound healing session began with deep vibrations that resonated through our cores, each note peeling back a layer of tension. Kathy’s voice, rhythmic and steady, guided us into a place of deep clarity.

The ice bath was—well—shocking. But in the best possible way. As I stepped into the bath, every cell in my body seemed to awaken. The cold wasn’t just cold; it was electric. David and I locked eyes, both gasping and laughing through the adrenaline. It was raw, invigorating, and honestly, wildly therapeutic. Emerging from the bath, I felt more alive than I had in months. Like a veil had been lifted. Every sensation felt crisper, every breath deeper.

Still buzzing from the experience, we spent the afternoon at the property’s renowned C-Side Spa, where a pair of Biologique Recherche facials awaited us. The spa is tucked into the landscape—part James Bond lair, part organic temple of calm. It’s sleek, chic, and entirely dedicated to the art of indulgence. The treatments? Transformative. My skin was given a new lease on life, and the level of personalization was unmatched. It wasn’t just about products—it was about understanding. The therapist read my skin like a well-worn novel and tailored every moment accordingly. David, ever the skeptic of spa treatments, emerged from his room blinking in disbelief: “That was…actually incredible,” he admitted. High praise, indeed.

Evenings at Cowley Manor are made for romance. Our dinner was intimate, seated near the windows with a soft golden glow cast over the table. The menu is a celebration of locally sourced ingredients elevated to something exceptional. Each course was a love letter to the region—from the delicate cod to the rich, herbaceous Hereford sirloin. The wine list, too, was a journey in itself, with the sommelier guiding us to a pairing that danced perfectly with every bite.

But it wasn’t just the meals or the rooms or the spa that made our stay unforgettable. It was the seamless, almost invisible service—the kind that never hovers but always appears when needed. Every member of the Cowley team treated us not as guests, but as welcome confidantes, privileged enough to share in their world.

Travel Stories

Surf’s Up at Kimpton Beachcomber

Miami Beach, Florida                        by Ava Rosales When my husband and I received the invitation...

Swellegant Stays: The Welbeck, London

Marylebone is one of London’s most stylish and intriguing areas to visit. Go back a thousand years and it was little more than a...

Swellegant Stays: Bawe Island, Zanzibar

The name Zanzibar means “Black Coast”, but what I see in this idyllic archipelago are snow white beaches lapped by gentle waves of the...

In the Heart of the West End

London has a rhythm all its own—fast, fashionable, and endlessly fascinating. But tucked just off the electric pulse of Leicester Square, I discovered a...

Double the Bliss

OFFERS MORE THAN JUST SUN-SOAKED BEACHES AND TURQUOISE WATERS—IT’S A DESTINATION WHERE TRANQUILITY AND THRILL LIVE SIDE BY SIDE.Sardinia offers more than just sun-soaked...

On our second morning, we wandered the estate, hand in hand. The gardens, designed in the spirit of capability and care, were in full spring bloom—tulips nodding lazily in the breeze, birds weaving through ancient trees, and a sense of timelessness enveloping everything. We discovered quiet corners perfect for reading, hidden benches ideal for whispered secrets, and winding paths that encouraged slow walks and spontaneous detours.

Cowley Manor is not merely a hotel. It is a soulful destination. It invites you to disconnect not from the world, but from the noise. To reconnect with your body, your partner, your breath. Our time here was brief, but its imprint is indelible.

As we packed up to leave, neither of us spoke much. There was a reverent hush in the air—the kind that comes when you know you’ve experienced something rare; something swanky – something sacred.

To say Cowley Manor exceeded expectations would be an understatement. It recalibrated them. For anyone seeking a space where wellness is woven into every detail, where luxury is quiet and intentional, and where even the ice baths feel like a gift—this is your place.

Until next time, Cowley.

Keep whispering your magic.

Escape to Japan

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Japan is a country of stark contrasts, where modern marvels and ancient traditions intersect like a bullet train slicing through the serene countryside. At first glance, Japan may seem at odds with itself; a juxtaposition of futuristic ideas and ancient history. However, if you look a little deeper, you’ll find a unique harmony that’s woven into the very fabric of life and a deep understanding that there is more to life than the relentless rat-race. There is an ardent belief that taking time to rest, relax and recenter is critical to a happy and balanced life, and what better way to relax than by soaking away your troubles in a hot spring in the middle of the forest?

Just a few hours North of Tokyo you will find Tobira Onsen Myojinkan, a Relais and Chateaux accredited retreat nestled in the mountains of Nagano, right outside the city of Matsumoto. Whether you’re looking for a reprieve from the congestion of Tokyo or just looking to disconnect from the modern world and re-connect with nature, Myojinkan is the ideal sanctuary offering what the Japanese call “Tabiji no Naka no Ma”, which refers to the intentional pause that enriches the rhythm of life.

Surrounded by verdant forests, babbling brooks and lofty mountain peaks, Tobira Onsen Myojinkan is harmoniously integrated into the otherwise untouched wilderness. Upon arrival to the hotel, you are ushered from a private shuttle to the foyer where shoes are removed, slippers adorned, and a welcome glass of bubbles is waiting for you in the salon. After refilling your glass and being shown to your room, you are introduced to your very own yukata – a traditional and informal robe akin to the more commonly known and formal kimono. Wearing of the yukata throughout the duration of your stay is encouraged, including to breakfast and dinner. While this may be a foreign and perhaps uncomfortable concept for some, if approached with an open mind, one can very quickly become accustomed to dining at superb restaurants between onsen baths completely free from the traditional confines of pants. Unsurprisingly, donning traditional Japanese garments and meandering between onsens then heading to the salon to enjoy a tipple of local whiskey before dinner can leave one feeling as though they’ve been transported to a different place and time.

Myojinkan offers a variety of Western and Japanese style rooms that blend traditional Japanese décor with modern minimalist luxury and feature interior designs that seamlessly incorporate elements of the exterior landscape. The Zen Room, designed and built with the intention of re-connecting the guest with nature, features locally sourced materials and traditional building techniques that can be found throughout the decor. Tsuchikabe [a wall plastered with mud and straw] is a time-honored technique once used to build and insulate rural homes which gives unique texture and depth to the room’s interior. Small bundles of wood that have been reserved from the thinning of the surrounding forest are used to support the cushions resting on the floor in front of the window, giving the impression that you’re sitting directly among the foliage. The open-air balcony boasts a private onsen which provides even further immersion into the local surroundings, allowing guests to listen to the birds chirp or the rain fall from tree branch to forest floor and ultimately join the gently winding creek.

The Zen Toji Suite exemplifies minimalist luxury and features large open-concept bedroom and living spaces. At the front of the room is a sizeable, heated tatami [woven straw mat] where one can rest directly on the mat, or in large cushion-style chairs, while gazing out the window at the woods and listening to the murmuring of the passing stream. The walk-in shower room, larger than most New York apartments, features its own private onsen bath with infinity edges, filling the room with cedar’s unmistakable and intoxicating aroma. This suite was designed around the ancient concept of toji in which people would stay at a ryokan [traditional Japanese inn] for up to several weeks to take recurring therapeutic hot spring treatments for illnesses. The room is intended for guests to repeat the process of drawing onsen baths to cleanse the body and relax the mind then resting on the tatami mats; a process which is said to sooth, heal and revitalize.

The salon offers a peaceful space with floor to ceiling windows where one can reflect, delve into a book or have quiet conversation, all while enjoying a libation from the bar or a hot cup of tea using locally foraged ingredients. The specialty tea program at Myojinkan allows guests to create their own unique brew using a selection of prepared teas as a base, then incorporate several hyper-local botanicals procured from the forest surrounding the property. In the spring, new fir tree buds are muddled along with sancho peppercorns intentionally left on the trees during the fall harvest to slowly dry over the winter months. Young fir branches are ignited to shroud the maker with a slightly sweet pine aroma before they are submerged in the tea blend, adding a hint of delicate smoke. Steeped for a few minutes then strained into a glass cup to be enjoyed, no two brews will ever be the same. The salon also offers premium Nekohama matcha, an organic matcha tea grown in Japan which uses a unique milling method to reduce bitterness while retaining its vibrant green color without added preservatives. It is as exceptional in sweets and other beverages as it is in its original tea form and has inspired the culinary team at Myojinkan to produce a selection of matcha drinks and desserts.

At Tobira Onsen Myojinkan there are two restaurants, overseen by the Group’s head Chef Masahiro Tanabe, offering the exceptional dining experiences one would expect from a Relais and Chateau property – Shinshu Dining Tobira which offers traditional Japanese cuisine, and Nature French Sai, serving French fine dining. There are very few Ryokan Onsens that offer cuisines other than Japanese, and while the mountains of Nagano may be an unlikely location for a French restaurant, if it wasn’t for the paired wines which are all grown and produced within the Nagano wine valley, one might be led to believe they were dining in the French Alps. Both locations offer breakfast and dinner with menus inspired by the local landscape, highlighting ingredients grown and foraged from the Matsumoto and larger Nagano area.

The meal at Sai, curated by Chef Tomoaki Hando, begins with a creamy and light soup made from udo, a root vegetable similar to burdock that is served alongside a crispy wonton wrapper stuffed with a filling made from fukinoto [butterbur bud] mixed with miso and ricotta. Next is a course of locally grown asparagus, the ends delicately peeled to remove the fibrous outside revealing only the tender hearts. Topped with a sous-vide poached egg and lightly dressed local greens the salad is then finished with a rich sauce made of beef jus and chopped mushrooms, faintly reminiscent of a salad Lyonnaise and paired with an unoaked Chardonnay. The dish that follows is a tried-and-true French classic featuring an immediately recognizable ingredient that is synonymous with spring – kogomi [fiddle head ferns] seasoned and lightly sauteed before being placed inside a vol-au-vents [a savory pastry bowl] made with layers of rich, buttery puff pastry, and served over a sauce of nobiru [wild garlic] and takenoko [bamboo shoot] with a beautiful semi-sweet rosé. Local yukimasu [snow trout] follows, so named for the pristine white colour of the trout’s flesh. It has been lightly smoked with local Sakura [cherry] wood which adds a unique and slightly sweet flavor to the delicate fish that is accompanied by a sauce made of cress and local herbs. The main course of veal loin is roasted on the bone and presented tableside with onion and seasonal root vegetables before being taken to the kitchen to be carved and plated. It is then sauced with a white wine demi-glace that perfectly pairs with the light, fruit forward merlot. The pre-dessert, a traditional French cheese cart adorned with a selection of imported cheeses and a few local offerings, is a welcomed surprise. Kasuga from Bosqueso Cheese Lab is a locally produced semi-firm cow’s milk cheese that is activated by washing the rind with the mineral-rich spring water from the Casuga Kasuga Onsen. Perfectly paired with local honey and house made crostini with dried fruits, the cheese course makes way for the main dessert – a Charlotte aux fraise [strawberry Charlotte cake]. This classic French mousse cake is made with lady finger biscuits, sponge, Bavarian cream and fresh Japanese strawberries, elegantly paired with an inconceivably rich and velvety fromage blanc [white cheese] ice cream.

In the Shinsu dining room, a Japanese tasting menu focused on local seasonal ingredient ensues curated by head Japanese Chef Tetsuya Uchiyama. Born and raised in Azumino, a town next to Matsumoto City, Chef Uchiyama trained in various ryokans in Nagano/Shinsu prefecture and has a deep connection to the area. He is known as a master of the region’s traditional herbs and vegetables which he pairs with other hand-selected ingredients from all over Japan to create his exceptional dishes. The meal commences with small amuse bouche; a soup of burdock that is earthy, rich and creamy but without the use of dairy, accompanied by the first of what would be many expertly chosen sake pairings. Next is a seasonal appetizer plate; five individual dishes containing local ingredients such as fukinoto simmered in dashi, Sakura shrimp cooked in sweetened soy sauce, noburi [wild chives] pickled in white miso, urui [young hosta shoots] topped with karasumi [cured mullet roe] and kogomi [fiddle heads], dressed with warmed chopped walnuts.

The soup course reveals a whole onion suspended in broth, so proficiently poached that it splits effortlessly under the weight of a chopstick. Crowned with tuft of konbu kelp shaved so fine it resembled savory cotton candy, the impossibly delicate onion’s innate sweetness is enveloped by the richly seasoned and umami dashi, flawlessly contrasted by the crisp freshness of the paired sake. A seasonal sashimi plate arrives with three exceptionally fresh selections. Shinshu salmon, another local uniquity produced by breeding rainbow trout and brown trout, is paired with unbelievably tender raw sweet shrimp and firm white kasago [scorpionfish]. Served with blanched wild chives, shiso leaf and freshly grated wasabi, the dish is paired with monomi, a concentrated and highly seasoned condiment of sorts, made of barley and soy as a by-product of local soy sauce production.

The next dish was truly inimitable. Meat of wild black bear, thinly shaved and served in a delicate broth of dashi, with a generous amount of wild watercress and fresh, locally made soba noodles, served on the side, to be added and enjoyed with a small amount of meat and herbs, one bite at a time. Grilled bamboo sprout follows, lightly poached then elegantly charred until just tender and served with tempura clams, wakame seaweed and dashi broth. This is trailed swiftly by an exceptional piece of wagyu tenderloin, perfectly cooked over bamboo charcoal for a touch of smoke and served with a single piece of udo shoot tempura, more local asparagus and a touch of Japanese sea salt on the side, in the event additional seasoning is desired. The final savory plate was a generous selection of nigiri sushi, each bite more delicious than the last, that culminated with two pieces of wagyu beef nigiri. Cooked in the style of tataki, with the edges seared and the centers still perfectly raw. For dessert, some local strawberries seasoned with a touch of sugar and spice, served with yogurt ice cream. So pure, so simple, so incredibly delicious.

Myojinkan offers three “public” onsens baths for guests to enjoy in addition to the ones located in select suites. The naturally occurring mineral rich alkaline spring water is drawn from a local hot spring and distributed throughout the property. A long, quiet soak in a spring-fed onsen at a moderate temperature (approx. 40°C or 104°F) calms the parasympathetic nervous system, relaxes the mind and body as well as aids in softening and soothing the skin. Uniquely, all of the hot water from the showers and taps on the property is alkaline water from the hot springs, while the cold water is filtered pure water direct from the adjacent river.

While the bathing policies of onsens throughout Japan may vary, it is customary that prior to entry one must remove all articles of clothing and prepare themselves in one of the provided shower stations, then enter the bath without garments. For this reason, the bathing areas of the public onsens are separated for male and female guests. While it is not permitted to wear any kind of garment into the bath such as underwear or bathing suits, guests may carry a towel to cover themselves during entry and exit from the baths. There are many onsens in Japan that restrict guests with tattoos from entering the baths, however at Miojinkan, tattoos are permitted.

When not bathing in the onsens or enjoying the gastronomic specialties, the on-site spa Natura provides guests with an array of aroma and massage therapy treatments in rooms that are cozy and quiet with soft, relaxing finishes of tatami mats exposed wood-beam ceilings. The aroma therapy options at Natura are updated with the seasons and utilize a variety of essential oils to increase blood circulation, reduce tension and increase energy, restoring balance and harmony to the body.

While the duality of life in Japan may at times seem conflicting, the intrinsic harmony is powerful and omnipresent. However, like most things omnipresent, our ability to notice and appreciate them often fades and we must force ourselves to slow down, take an intentional pause and get back in tune with the world around us. We must not only learn to hear the rhythm of life but also to slow down and enjoy it instead of perpetually running to the beat. So, whether you’re looking to explore the natural side of Japan, experience the rich history of ryokans or find the perfect way to punctuate your next Japanese vacation, Tobira Onsen Myojinkan is the ideal place to take a pause, nourish your body and your mind, and let the blare of daily life slowly fade into the ether; like steam evaporating off the surface of a warm onsen on a cool spring morning.

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Suite Dreams – The Telegraph – Tbilisi

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Tbilisi has long been recognized as one of Europe’s coolest capital cities, with bold architecture, vibrant art, fashion, and music scenes, and some of the continent’s best food and wine. This June, the city was crowned with Georgia’s very first member of the Leading Hotels of the World group: The Telegraph Hotel on Shota Rustaveli Avenue.

Originally designed in 1964 by the leading Georgian architects Lado Meskhishvili and Teimuraz Mikashavidze, this was the building of Tbilisi’s telegraph office. Some of the bold, open spaces feel as if Wes Anderson put his spin on Soviet Brutalism, but the renowned design international studio Neri & Hu has now entered the mix, too, bringing everything bang up to date. The Telegraph Hotel is a microcosm of Tbilisi itself, old, new, and completely unique. It’s rightly one of the year’s most hotly anticipated hotel openings, and the perfect excuse to take a stylish vacation in the Caucasus.

Commit yourself to revelling in luxury and book into one of The Telegraph’s utterly fabulous suites, of which there are 18 in the property. The Junior, Executive and Grand Suites have balconies, but it is well worth your while upgrading to the Telegraph Terrace Suite or the Telegraph Presidential Suite, both of which have expansive terraces which more than double your available living area. To put it in perspective, the total area of the Telegraph Presidential Suite, indoor and outside, is larger than two full size tennis courts!

Size isn’t everything, of course; style and comfort are just as important. Neri & Hu have curated a suite which sets a new standard of luxury. In the Presidential Suite, you can breeze in your robe between the two bedrooms and living room, wandering back and forth to the terrace with a cup of freshly brewed coffee in hand, and listening to your favourite vinyl playing on the record player. The sought after Parisian brand Diptyque supplies all the amenities, the faint floral notes of their fragrances lingering on your skin and in the air. The minimalist monochrome decor and design of the furniture gives a slight nod to the building’s 1960s origins, but at the same time there is no doubt that you are also in a modish contemporary space.

to spend all day and all night in your suite, you absolutely must get out and explore the rest of the hotel. The rooftop bar is branded by Rolling Stone and has epic views of the city; celebrity chef Rose Chalalai Singh brings her Bangkok-meets-Paris flair to her latest signature restaurant, Laan Thai; and the live musicians at Tatuza, Tbilisi’s newest and most sophisticated jazz club, will have you dancing into the early hours of the morning.

www.lhw.com/hotel

The-Telegraph-Hoteli-Georgia-Tbilisi-Georgia

Gastronomic Gallivants: Cheltenham, England

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2025 IS THE 250TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTH OF THE ENGLISH NOVELIST JANE AUSTEN. IF YOU WANT TO LIVE OUT YOUR PRIDE AND PREJUDICE FANTASIES – OR EVEN TRY TO FIND YOUR OWN MR. DARCY – THEN IT IS WELL WORTH PAYING A VISIT TO THE REGENCY SPA TOWN OF CHELTENHAM. JANE CAME TO CHELTENHAM WITH HER SISTER, CASSANDRA, IN THE SPRING OF 1816, AND IN ADDITION TO TAKING THE WATERS FOR HER HEALTH, NO DOUBT ENJOYED ALL THE LUXURIES AND SOCIAL EVENTS THAT THE TOWN HAD TO OFFER.

Looking at Visit Cheltenham’s events calendar today, this picturesque destination in the Cotswolds still has plenty to draw discerning guests. Cheltenham Racecourse welcomes 400,000 spectators a year and is busiest during Cheltenham Festival in March. More high-brow are the Cheltenham Literature Festival, Cheltenham Science Festival, and Cheltenham Jazz Festival: Jane would have had plenty to keep herself entertained, and even more to write about! But my favourite festival of the summer is the Cheltenham Food & Drink Festival in June. Dozens of artisanal producers descend on pretty Montpellier Gardens to showcase their goods, many of which are made in the villages surrounding the town. There are cheese masterclasses and guided wine tastings, cookery demonstrations and talks from celebrity chefs. These mouthwatering delights serve as a reminder why Cheltenham is one of the UK’s great culinary centres, at any time of the year.

If you are planning a gastronomic minibreak in Cheltenham, you are going to be spoilt for choice. From cocktail bars to delicatessens, family-run coffee shops to Michelin starred restaurants, the town is bursting at the seams.

To make the most of Cheltenham’s culinary scene, you will want to stay right in the center. Neptune Apartments occupies one of the grandest Georgian buildings on The Promenade, with high ceilings, beautifully restored original features, and dramatic chandeliers. The bold wall colors and opulent fabrics befit the home of one of Jane’s aristocratic characters, and if you do want to swish around in an empire line ball gown, you will have plenty of space to do so.

Neptune’s 12 apartments – all of which are individually styled – mix the 5-star luxury of the best British hotels with the space and comforts of a long stay apartment. In The Painswick, named like all the apartments after an idyllic Cotswold village, you can start the day slowly, making coffee and sitting at the breakfast bar. Meanwhile, at the other end of the day, there’s ample room to sit on a leather armchair talking with a friend into the small hours, sipping on glasses of Champagne. When you are ready to flop, the velvet upholstered bed beckons, its crisp white linens enveloping you as you slumber deeply.

If you only have one night in Cheltenham – though I recommend staying as long as you can – then you must prioritize the very best places to wine and dine. Start your mini tour at The Grape Escape Wine Bar & Merchant on Regent Street, just a few minutes’ walk away from The Promenade. Here, couple Ant and Zoe bring you a truly imaginative selection of wines from around the world, including from less well known wine producers in countries like Croatia, Slovenia, and Georgia. More than 20 wines are available by the glass or carafe at any one time, and the menu changes weekly. If you are stuck, however, and just cannot decide, then ask for the wine flight: five reds or five whites for a very good price of £16.50. If you are feeling particularly brave, you can even try these wines blind, testing your senses to see if you can correctly identify them.

It is no good drinking on an empty stomach, so provided that you won’t spoil your appetite, choose some of the Grape Escape’s snacks to accompany your wine. The pork scratchings are a British pub staple, but far tastier and more refined are the air dried duck breast, Black Down ham from The Somerset Charcuterie Company, and the selection of cheeses from The Cheeseworks along the street. Ant and Zoe have sought out the very best local producers – exactly the kind of businesses which exhibit at the Cheltenham Food & Drink Festival – and added them to their menu so you can try multiple delicious delicacies in one place.

Couple teams is a theme of this article, because the #1 restaurant in Cheltenham, Lumiere, is run by a husband and wife, Chef Patron Jon Howe and General Manager Helen Howe. Lumiere has received numerous accolades, including a Michelin star, and is quite rightly considered to be one of the best restaurants in Britain.

AT LUMIERE, THE QUALITY STARTS WITH THE INGREDIENTS.

To ensure that everything is as fresh and as local as possible, the Howes have established a 15-acre smallholding which serves as their kitchen garden. They have planted a wide range of native crops, from broad beans and garden peas to rhubarb, damsons, and sloes, and are employing a ‘no dig’ method to improve the soil health. Everything grown here is organic, and as they harvest by hand every day, it takes just a matter of hours for the produce to get from the soil to the restaurant’s tables.

On this journey, however, the ingredients go through an almost magical transformation in Jon’s kitchen. The set menus of four-, six-, or eight-courses, plus a vegetarian option, are continually changing depending on what is in season and what Jon fancies cooking. On the chilly winter’s day when we had lunch, the combination of duck and white chocolate was a revelation, but the real crowning achievement was the butter soft Cotswolds venison served with celeriac, morel mushrooms, and black truffle. Perhaps the biggest surprise, however, was the deconstructed tequila slammer palate cleanser with its salt glass, gel orbs filled with a hot-sour mouthful of lime juice, and mist rising in swirls from the wooden dish.

What draws together Neptune, The Great Escape, and Lumiere are attention to detail and absolutely top notch quality. If you take pleasure from the finer things in life and have the taste to distinguish the extraordinary from the merely excellent, then a short break in Cheltenham will deliver in every way.

www.neptuneapartments.co.uk

www.visitcheltenham.com

Swellegant Stays: Inhabit Hotel, London

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Have you ever stayed in a hotel which is in two places at once? Inhabit occupies two different buildings in Paddington, West London, one in Queen’s Gardens and another close by on Southwick Street. This unusual arrangement is just one of the hotel’s charming quirks, which continue through the choice of wall art, the designer furniture, and the carefully curated wellness activities.

At first glance, Inhabit has a strong retro vibe: the color schemes and style of furniture transported me back to the 1960s or ‘70s. But when you look closer, everything has a contemporary twist, bringing it bang up to date. The frequent combination of sage green and cream is calming on the mind, putting guests into the perfect frame of mind for a wellness treatment by Gaia, a sound healing or vinyasa flow yoga class, or simply a good night’s sleep.

Guest rooms are flooded with light, and many of the large windows look out onto Paddington’s distinctive stucco townhouses. There is a strong Scandi influence in the decor, but it is mixed with British design. Many of the artworks and objets d’art are by local designers, there are Skandinavisk toiletries, and you can choose a bespoke aromatherapy scent for your room. If you are traveling with a pampered pooch in tow, they are welcome, too, and the open expanse of Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens is only a short walk away.

When it comes to eating and drinking, everything you need is on site. The Pantry is always stocked with healthy treats, and restaurant Yeotown serves some of the very best meat-free cuisine in London. The fresh bread and pastries come from Luminary Bakery, a social enterprise which supports women who have experienced homelessness or domestic abuse to rebuild their lives; and the lunch and dinner menus are intended to nourish your mind as well as your body. Start with an appetizer like roasted and candied golden beetroot with fresh orange, rocket, and elderflower dressing, followed by a mouthwatering main of pan fried sea bass with asparagus and pea, lemon, and buckwheat risotto.

www.inhabithotels.com

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