Yerevan, Armenia
By Kamila Erkaboyeva
Armenia is a land where ancient history and breathtaking landscapes are matched only by the warmth of the people. Here, hospitality is not just a tradition but a way of life, where every guest is welcomed with open arms, heartfelt generosity, and a deep sense of respect, making you feel not just like a visitor, but a cherished part of the Armenian family. Meals are more than sustenance; they are rituals of love and memory, where every bite tells a story, and every shared dish deepens the bond between host and guest.
With Georgia next door, competition is stiff, but the Armenian capital, Yerevan, has a strong claim to be the culinary capital of the Caucasus. From local markets overflowing with Armenia’s freshest bounty to riverside tavernas and trailblazing haute cuisine restaurants, the city has something for every palate. Use the brand-new Courtyard by Marriott Yerevan Hotel as your base and let your taste buds guide you on a gastronomic adventure.
Start your day with an early morning treasure hunt, seeking out fresh produce as you wander through Yerevan’s GUM food market. As the morning unfolds, vendors greet you with generous hands, offering sun-ripened tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, sweet apricots, and fresh lavash, each bite a burst of flavor. It’s the perfect spot for a walking breakfast, where you can savor the essence of Armenia, one delicious step at a time, surrounded by the vibrant hum of the market coming to life. Many of the ingredients are brought into Yerevan daily from nearby villages, towns, and farms, from Dilijan, Vayk, and Tatev, as well as Lake Sevan.
Come lunchtime, it’s best to sit and eat. Anteb won’t catch your eye with flashy décor, but it’s a little gem of a place, serving the very finest Western Armenian cuisine. Tucked away on Koghbatsi Street, just a stone’s throw from Northern Avenue, Anteb is a modest, one-room restaurant filled with closely packed tables. Despite its simple appearance, it’s always buzzing with diners, a sure sign that the food is something special. As a family-run establishment, Anteb exudes authenticity, offering generous portions in a cozy, casual setting. The menu features traditional Armenian dishes you’d typically find in a home kitchen, including mante, puffy bread, lamb gouvaj, Urfaly kebab, fattoush, lahmajoun, and more. And just a few steps from the restaurant, you’ll find the Anteb sweets shop, where the baklava is second to none.
In mid afternoon, there is time for sightseeing: the National Gallery and History Museum are nearby. But if you are enjoying a slow day and want to relax, why not retreat to the hotel for a few hours of rest? The decor in the guest rooms is in a calming color palette of off-white with gray and pale blue accents. As the Marriott Yerevan is one of relatively few high-rise buildings in the city, you look out from the windows and can see across much of the city. The hotel’s tranquil spa is open daily from midday until 9pm, so treat yourself to a facial, body scrub, and session in the steam room to reinvigorate yourself before getting ready for dinner.
The number and variety of Yerevan’s restaurants is such that you could happily dine somewhere different every day of the month, but if you are visiting Armenia on a short break, book well ahead to make sure that at least one evening you can eat at Renommée by Yeremyan Projects. Renommée is a French word which can be translated as renown, fame, or reputation. It perfectly encapsulates the prestige which Yeremyan Projects has built over the years. This trailblazing haute cuisine restaurant redefines the city’s culinary landscape with its signature dishes, and it is the first restaurant of its kind in the Armenian capital.
With just 26 seats, Renommée offers an intimate dining experience where every detail is meticulously curated. The heart of Renommée lies in its concept of Armenian haute cuisine, brought to life in the form of a carefully crafted set menu known as Sunburst Armenia. Chef Karen Khachatryan – who has two silver medals from the Culinary World Cup – has drawn inspiration from the sun-soaked flavors and rich heritage of traditional Armenian cooking. The result? A menu which showcases the freshest, seasonal local produce, infused with the warmth and essence of the Armenian sun.
Each dish in the Renommée set is a journey through the diverse regions of Armenia, offering diners a taste of the country’s rich culinary landscape with every bite. This is not just a meal; it’s a celebration of Armenian culture, history, and the boundless creativity which local ingredients can inspire. You might start your meal with a simple appetizer like an omelet with Dilijan mushroom and tomato, or BBQ eggplant, but the fresh flavors of these seasonal ingredients capture your attention straight away. With the main courses, Chef Karen and his team flex their creative muscles, creating dishes you will find nowhere else. The Sevan whitefish with sea buckthorn is a revelation; and the quail with truffles and Jerusalem artichokes is the kind of dish you will think fondly back on for years to come.
As you would hope from a restaurant of this caliber, Renommée also has a superb wine list, with plenty of local wines. Armenian grape varieties you will rarely find abroad include Areni for red and sparkling wines, and Voskehat for white. Areni, often likened to a fuller-bodied Pinot Noir or a leaner Grenache, is prized for its red fruit aromas, lively acidity, and silky tannins. Meanwhile, Voskehat produces versatile wines, ranging from bright, clean styles to more savory, textural expressions, especially when aged in karas, Armenia’s traditional clay amphoras.
Armenia is a tapestry of experiences waiting to be discovered. As you journey through this ancient land, you’re not just exploring a country – you’re stepping into a living history, where every region unfolds its own unique tale, flavors, and dialects. Yet, amidst this rich diversity, one thing remains constant: the warmth of Armenian hospitality. Here, you’re not merely a guest; you’re welcomed as a cherished visitor, embraced with the same love and respect reserved for family. From the bustling food markets to the friendly faces you encounter on rural roads, Armenia greets you with an open heart and boundless warmth. This is a land where generosity and hospitality define the experience, making it easy to feel at home and hard to leave without becoming a part of the local fabric yourself.
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