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Peaks, Pines and Wildlife

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Peaks, Pines and Wildlife

Robert Trent Jones Sr.’s Rocky Mountain Masterpiece

By Jarone Ashkenazi

Set within Alberta’s Canadian Rockies, Kananaskis Country Golf Course belongs firmly to that rare category of golf destination that leaves an impression far beyond the scorecard. Surrounded by the towering peaks of Mount Kidd and Mount Lorette, dense pine forests, the Kananaskis River, and some of Canada’s most abundant wildlife, it is a place where championship golf unfolds within one of North America’s most breathtaking natural landscapes.

Located just outside Banff National Park, Kananaskis Country offers a remarkable sense of seclusion despite its international recognition. The property, which welcomed world leaders during the 51st G7 Summit in June 2025, sits within Kananaskis Country, just an hour from Banff, yet feels beautifully removed from the world. Each of its two 18-hole courses was designed to complement the topography, a philosophy evident from the opening tee shot to the final green.

Playing here rarely feels rushed. The hush of the Canadian Rockies lends every round an unhurried rhythm, as fairways disappear into the forest before opening to cinematic mountain vistas. Bentgrass fairways and pristine greens follow the contours of the valley, while glacier-fed creeks, tranquil ponds, and the winding Kananaskis River naturally shape strategy. More than 120 white silica sand bunkers define the courses, while six tee box options ensure golfers of every ability can experience the layouts with confidence and pleasure. Across both Mount Kidd and Mount Lorette, the landscape dictates the experience. The Mount Kidd course offers expansive views framed by rushing water and alpine meadows, while Mount Lorette rewards accuracy and restraint, with stands of towering lodgepole pine reminding players that precision often matters more than distance. Together, the two courses create distinct personalities, yet it is often what lies beyond the fairways that becomes most memorable. Unlike many mountain courses, where nature serves as scenery, Kananaskis Country sits within an active wildlife corridor. Elk graze casually beside greens, deer emerge from the surrounding forest, and moose are occasional visitors near the wetlands. Bald eagles circle overhead, while sightings of black bears and grizzlies offer a powerful reminder that golfers are sharing this landscape rather than simply passing through it.

“PLAYING KANANASKIS IS THE RARE GOLF EXPERIENCE WHERE THE SCENERY COMPETES WITH THE COURSE ITSELF, AND BOTH WIN,” SAYS TREVOR SECUNDIAK, DIRECTOR OF TOURNAMENT AND SALES. “PAIR THAT WITH HIKING, PADDLING, A LUXURY HOTEL, NORDIC SPA AND THE QUIET GRANDEUR OF THE ROCKIES, AND KANANASKIS BECOMES MORE THAN A TEE TIME. IT BECOMES THE CENTREPIECE OF AN UNFORGETTABLE GETAWAY IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES.”

Overlooking the course, the clubhouse provides a relaxed setting from which to savor uninterrupted views of the mountains that framed the day’s round. Whether enjoying lunch after an early morning tee time or lingering over drinks as the afternoon light settles across the valley, it is the kind of 19th hole that invites guests to pause and sink into the quiet beauty of their surroundings.

Only minutes away, Pomeroy Kananaskis Mountain Lodge extends that connection to the destination while adding a refined layer of mountain luxury. Set at the base of Mount Kidd, the lodge offers direct access to scenic pathways, including the breathtaking Village Rim, with immediate access to hiking and cycling trails. In a region home to five provincial parks, four wildland provincial parks, one ecological reserve, and several provincial recreation areas, the property serves as an elegant gateway to one of Canada’s great outdoor sanctuaries. This polished alpine retreat bridges the untamed spirit of the Rockies with the comfort and sophistication of a luxury mountain escape.

Two people take in the 360 degree mountain views as the canoe across a lake together close to sunset.
Credit_ johnpricephotography

From elevated dining at Cedar Room, where premium Canadian beef and sustainably sourced seafood take center stage, to wood-fired Italian fare at Forte and handcrafted cocktails in the relaxed alpine setting of Blacktail Bar, the culinary and beverage program captures both the sophistication and laid-back charm of mountain living. After a day on the course, the hotel’s Fireside Moments brings guests together around glowing outdoor fire pits for complimentary s’mores and quiet conversation beneath a canopy of stars.

WHAT TRULY SETS THE PROPERTY APART IS ITS EXPANSIVE 50,000-SQUARE-FOOT NORDIC SPA, ONE OF NORTH AMERICA’S PREMIER ALPINE WELLNESS DESTINATIONS.

Inspired by the centuries-old Nordic tradition of hot, cold, and rest, the adults-only sanctuary invites guests to move through hydrotherapy circuits featuring heated pools, invigorating cold plunges, steam rooms, saunas, outdoor relaxation areas, and secluded spaces designed for complete restoration, all surrounded by the breathtaking scenery of the Canadian Rockies.

“It’s the perfect complement to a day spent walking the fairways, easing tired muscles while extending the sense of connection to the mountains long after the final putt,” says Allison Archer, Tourism Marketing Coordinator of Explore Kananaskis.

Forte - Credit_ Rebecca Hardcastle
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Guests seeking an even more elevated stay can reserve accommodations within the recently introduced Black Diamond Club, a boutique hotel within the larger resort featuring 71 newly renovated rooms and suites, a private lounge, curated culinary offerings, and exclusive experiences. The Black Diamond Club Golf Package includes an ultra-premium tee-to-stay retreat, pairing sought-after tee times at Kananaskis Country Golf Club with a one-night stay, club car transport, valet parking, and all Club inclusions.

In the Canadian Rockies, championship golf, remarkable wildlife, mountain hospitality, and restorative luxury exist in complete harmony. A stay in Kananaskis reveals why this is one of Canada’s most unforgettable golf destinations, where spectacular mountain scenery elevates every hole and the journey across the course becomes as rewarding as the final score.

Credit_ Travel Alberta _ Mike Seehagel
Travel Alberta Josh Segeleski

Swellegant Stays: Gritti Palace, Venice

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Swellegant Stays: Gritti Palace, Venice

I remember vividly every detail of my first trip to Venice, more than a decade ago. I arrived by train and then sped through the canals on a vintage mahogany speedboat, my eyes staring wide as I attempted to take in the architecture of the palaces, the fabulous fashion, the painted boats of the gondoliers, the magnificent stonework of the churches, and everything else which dazzles you in La Serenissima. I disembarked at Gritti Palace and was completely overwhelmed. 

Fortunately, I have been privileged to return many times since to Venice’s most exceptional hotel. The location, of course, is incomparable: Gritti Palace is right on the Grand Canal, looking straight across the Basilica Santa Maria and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. It is a 10-minute walk from St Mark’s Square and the Doge’s Palace. Had you visited Venice in the 16th century, however, Doge Andrea Gritti actually lived in the palace that still bears his name. After all, for more than 550 years, this has been Venice’s most exclusive address. 

 

Gritti Palace began life as a private residence, but has been a hotel since 1895. Generations of royals and politicians, writers and celebrities have walked through its doors. The 10 signature suites all overlook the Grand Canal, the gondolas passing so close you could almost reach out and touch them; and the furniture, fabrics, and paintings are so opulent that they rival those in any Venetian museum. Sit at a writing desk and perhaps you’ll be inspired by the spirit of John Ruskin, who penned his famous treatise on Venetian art and architecture whilst staying here in the mid-19th century.  

The Club del Doge Restaurant, restored by Venetian artisans, is sumptuous, and it is where I’d want to dine on a winter’s night. But when the days are long and the evenings warm, nothing beats eating outside on The Gritti Terrace. You must dress up in your most fashionable attire – the people-watching is sublime, and you are part of the spectacle – and then sip cocktails languidly as the sun sets over the lagoon.  

Gritti Palace

Swellegant Stays: Glen Mhor Hotel, Inverness

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Swellegant Stays: Glen Mhor Hotel, Inverness

A street of Victorian townhouses stretches out along the shore of the River Ness in the city of Inverness, the de facto capital of the Scottish Highlands. At first glance, you might not realise that this is a hotel, but inside is a collection of 110 bedrooms and 11 self-contained apartments, plus the first distillery to be built in Inverness in a hundred years.  Welcome to the Glen Mhor Hotel, your very central base for exploring the attractions of the city and the Highlands beyond.

Glen Mhor is built from Old Red Sandstone, the distinctive, pink-hued building material used across Inverness’ traditional architecture, including the castle and cathedral. It is very much a part of the city’s identity, and traditional local culture influences the interior design, too: there are plaid carpets and upholstery fabrics, stag motifs, and artworks which evoke Highland forest and Gaelic mythology. 

The heart of the hotel has to be the Uile-Bheist — meaning monster in Gaelic — a whisky distillery and brewery. Although Inverness has a long history of distilling, most of the distilleries closed in the 1980s. Uile-Bheist’s opening in 2023 was a cause for celebration, a sign of the whisky industry’s revival, but it is also Scotland’s first and only “brewstillery”, as it not only produces Scotland’s national drink but also brews its own craft beers. There’s an emphasis on tradition and sustainable practices. The fast-flowing water of the River Ness powers the distillery’s machinery, and it has its own energy centre. Make a reservation at Uile-Bheist for a discovery tour and guided tasting of their signature Uile-Bheist Lager and Colpach Blended Whisky, enjoy another flight of beers in the taproom, then return to the Uile-Bheist Restaurant in Glen Mhor’s grounds to enjoy a dinner of Scottish mussels or haggis bonbons, pan-seared Scottish salmon, and other local culinary delights.

glen-mhor.com

Swanky Sips: Woodchester Valley Vineyard

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Swanky Sips: Woodchester Valley Vineyard

The Romans planted vineyards across Britain, their wines quenching the thirsts of noblemen and centurions, farmers and slaves alike. But after they left in the early 5th century AD, the country’s climate and tastes changed, and the winemaking industry quickly disappeared, too. It would be more than 1,500 years before the start of the English wine revival, and we are only now sipping its rewards.

The speed of growth in the English wine industry, once this renaissance did get started, has been remarkable. In the past 20 years, the amount of land cultivated as vineyards has expanded more than 500%, and there are now around 1,100 vineyards in the UK, including a handful in Scotland. The acreage and harvests are increasing year by year, and English wines, in particular sparkling wines, are winning more and more awards. Global warming has played its part – the climate in southern England is now akin to that in Champagne in the 1980s – but so too has growing consumer interest and winemakers’ skills.

One glorious summer weekend, I drove out through the winding lanes and rolling hills of the South Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) near Bath. The fields were turning steadily from green to gold, and in a particularly magical moment, I caught the song of a skylark on the breeze. My destination was the Woodchester Valley Vineyard, perched on a hilltop just south of the historic market town of Stroud.

Owner Fiona Shiner planted the first Woodchester vines 15 years ago. Today, there are 83,000 vines covering 57 acres, so the vineyard is around five times the size of the national average. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay varietals thrive in the Cotswolds’ limestone-rich soils, but Fiona and her team have also found that Bacchus grapes grow well in the clay at their nearby Stonehouse site. They are also now experimenting with Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Regent, Seyval Blanc, Siegerrebe, Solaris, Sauvignon Blanc and Ortega, broadening further the styles of wine they can make.

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“MY DESTINATION WAS THE WOODCHESTER VALLEY VINEYARD, PERCHED ON A HILLTOP JUST SOUTH OF THE HISTORIC MARKET TOWN OF STROUD.”

I checked in for a romantic stay in one of Woodchester’s Vineyard Barns, two-storey suites. with both balconies and terraces and incredible views across the AONB. The barns have underfloor heating and woodburners, so would be wonderfully cozy on a winter’s night, but this was high summer. I threw open the doors and windows, bathing in the sunlight and letting the fresh air blow through. The vineyard is some distance above the closest village, so it is gloriously quiet and private. If there was someone else in the vicinity, I was blissfully unaware.

Looking out at the vineyard is one thing, but I wanted to learn about winemaking, too. Later in the day I therefore joined Woodchester’s Classic Vineyard Tour and Wine Tasting, the perfect introduction to English wines and to Woodchester itself. The two-hour class costs just £30, a bargain given that you taste five different wines.

We sat relaxed in Woodchester’s purpose-built tasting room, where other couples and small groups of friends had already gathered. The chatter was lively, but as soon as host Elizabeth Woolls began to speak, she had everyone’s attention. Elizabeth is a Gloucestershire native, but her adventurous hospitality career has taken her far from home, working on a kibbutz in Israel, managing restaurants in Las Vegas and San Francisco, and coordinating events at The Santa Fe Wine And Chile Fiesta. She’s as knowledgeable as she is passionate about Woodchester, its terroir, and the grapes which are grown here, as well as the winemaking process.

Although Elizabeth begins her talk in the tasting room whilst the audience sips one of Woodchester’s excellent sparkling wines, it isn’t a static experience. We soon followed her out into the vineyard to see the last flowers and first tiny grapes on the vines. We learned how the staff set huge candles on cold nights to keep the air circulating and stop frost from settling, though it isn’t a failsafe method: the English weather is famously unpredictable, and a sharp frost late in the season can have a devastating impact on the crop. And inside the winery, we heard how winemaker Jeremy Mount applies the Champagne method to produce the Cotswolds Classic, Reserve Cuvee, and Rose Brut.

IT IS LABOUR INTENSIVE BUT UNDOUBTEDLY WORTH THE EFFORT, AS WOODCHESTER’S MANY AWARDS ATTEST.

Staying as a guest on the vineyard, you have the advantage that when the wine tasting finishes, you can simply saunter back to your accommodation without needing to walk far or call a cab. Should you want to go out for dinner, the superb Wilder restaurant is in nearby Nailsworth, but it is just as appealing to spend the evening lazily in the barn. Pre-order a hamper of fresh local produce, including moreish homemade bread and equally delicious charcuterie, plus sticky cakes and brownies. Crack open another bottle of Woodchester’s wine – might I suggest the Pinot Precoce 2023? – and you will have no reason at all to go beyond the vineyard’s walls. Sit on your terrace listening to the wind, the calls of owls and other nocturnal wildlife. Late in the evening at Woodchester, the world finally feels at peace.

woodchestervalleyvineyard.co.uk

Out and About – Salt Lake City

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Out and About – Salt Lake City

Salt Lake City is a place that likes to keep a few secrets. By day, the mountains command nearly every view, rising so decisively around the valley that even the downtown skyline seems to defer to them. But when the sun begins to drop, the city changes character. Glass towers catch the last light, the Wasatch peaks soften into shadow and a polished, quietly playful nightlife begins to emerge.

For an evening that captures that transformation beautifully, begin high above the city at Van Ryder, the rooftop bar atop Le Méridien Salt Lake City Downtown.

There are rooftops that happen to have a view, and there are rooftops where the view becomes the entire mood. Van Ryder belongs firmly in the latter category. The terrace opens toward a wide sweep of Salt Lake City and the mountains beyond, offering the kind of panorama that makes everyone at the table pause when the sky starts to turn.

Salt Lake sunsets can be surprisingly theatrical. The light moves from gold to rose, then settles into shades of lavender and deep blue behind the ridgelines. From Van Ryder, the city appears both energetic and serene: traffic moves below, lights flicker on across downtown, and the mountains remain the steady backdrop to it all.

This is not a place to arrive after dark and wonder what you missed. Come early enough to claim a comfortable seat, order a cocktail and watch the full performance. The atmosphere is relaxed but elevated, with a mix of open-air seating, fire features and sleek contemporary lines. Shareable plates make it easy to linger, but the greatest luxury here is time—the unhurried hour between afternoon and evening, when Salt Lake City seems to glow from every angle.

ONCE THE SUN HAS DISAPPEARED, DINNER IS ONLY AN ELEVATOR RIDE AWAY.

Just downstairs, Adelaide offers a different kind of escape. The restaurant takes inspiration from France and New Orleans, bringing the spirit of the Crescent City to downtown Salt Lake through a menu with Southern warmth, French technique and more than a little swagger.

 

 

Adelaide does not treat New Orleans as a theme. Instead, it finds the rhythm of the city: the richness of seafood, the comfort of grits, the drama of oysters and the layered flavors associated with Cajun and Creole cooking. Depending on the season, the menu may move through Gulf shrimp, seafood presentations and dishes that pair familiar Southern ingredients with a more polished brasserie sensibility.

The room has its own confident energy. Velvet seating, warm lighting and an elegant bar create a setting that feels suited to a leisurely dinner after rooftop drinks. There is a certain jazziness to the experience—not necessarily in a literal soundtrack, but in the way the evening unfolds. One note leads to another. A bright cocktail gives way to something briny, buttery or spiced. Dinner feels composed, but never overly formal. That pairing is what makes Van Ryder and Adelaide such a satisfying night out. You begin with the scale of the city and mountains spread before you, then move into a dining room that feels intimate, expressive and grounded in flavor. There is no need to cross town or break the spell. The evening simply descends from skyline to supper.

SALT LAKE CITY, HOWEVER, HAS ANOTHER SIDE—ONE THAT IS NOT REVEALED BY AN ELEVATOR BUTTON OR ROOFTOP SIGN.

Hide & Seek is the sort of place that reminds you why speakeasies remain irresistible when they are done well. The pleasure begins before the first drink because arriving is part of the experience. You need to know where you are going. You enter through Bonnie & Clydes, check in with the host and wait for the moment when an ordinary-looking bookcase becomes a doorway.

It is wonderfully theatrical without feeling forced. One moment, you are standing in a public-facing space; the next, you are being ushered into a room that feels deliberately removed from the outside world.

I first visited Hide & Seek soon after arriving in Salt Lake City, entirely as a paying guest. There was no arranged media experience and no expectation that it would later become part of a story. I simply wanted to see what was behind the bookcase. That sense of genuine discovery remains one of the reasons the evening stands out.

Inside, the mood is low-lit, intimate and a little conspiratorial. Craft cocktails and a seasonal, globally influenced menu encourage sharing and experimentation, but the greatest appeal is the feeling that you have been admitted into something. It is not merely a restaurant with a concealed entrance; the concealment changes the pace of the evening. Guests lean in. Conversations become more private. The outside city recedes.

In an age when nearly every destination is photographed from every possible angle before we arrive, Hide & Seek benefits from a little visual restraint. Perhaps the best way to tell its story is not to reveal too much. Let the bookcase remain closed in the imagination. Let readers wonder what waits behind it. The mystery is not a gap in the experience—it is one of its finest details.

“PERHAPS THE BEST WAY TO TELL ITS STORY IS NOT TO REVEAL TOO MUCH.”

Together, Van Ryder, Adelaide and Hide & Seek offer three distinct ways to experience Salt Lake City after dark. One puts the entire valley on display. One brings Southern soul and French polish to the dinner table. One asks you to find the entrance before it reveals anything at all.

The city may be famous for what surrounds it, but these evenings make a persuasive case for staying downtown after sunset. Look up for the rooftop, head downstairs for dinner and, when you are ready for one more secret, find the bookcase.

adelaidesaltlake.com   |   vanrydersaltlake.com   |   speakeasyhs.com

Spa Uncommon – JA Mar Hall Golf & Spa Resort

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Spa Uncommon – JA Mar Hall Golf & Spa Resort

Arriving at JA Mar Hall Golf & Spa Resort, a magnificent five-star Scottish country estate on the banks of the River Clyde, is to immerse yourself immediately in luxury. The drive is lined with manicured lawns and mature, well-tended trees, and the only thing separating you from the riverbank is the resort’s 18-hole golf course. A cool, fresh breeze blows off the river, and so by the time you exit the car and cross the threshold of the hotel, a Gothic baronial mansion, your body and mind are already starting to relax.  

The 240-acre estate has a long history. The present house was a dream conjured up by Major General Robert Walter Stuart, the 11th Lord Blantyre, but in an unfortunate twist of fate, he was accidentally shot and killed before it was completed. His wife, Frances, spent £50,000 – around $10 million today – bringing to life the design of Sir Robert Smirke, the famed Victorian architect who was also responsible for the British Museum’s main building. The stone was quarried locally, but the oak interior was imported from Quebec. And the house soon became the social hub of Renfrewshire, hosting high society from across Scotland and beyond once it was finished in 1845.

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JA Mar Hall wears its rich history proudly. The estate recently went through a $27 million refurbishment, and it would have been easy to erase the historical character of the place. But luckily, the owners understood the importance of it and have made many of the features part of the hotel’s story. You will notice, for example, that the main house looks to be covered in black soot. It is as if a fire had broken out. But the truth is altogether more interesting.

 

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During the Second World War, there were shipyards along the River Clyde that built warships for the British Navy.

Mar Hall was directly in the flight path of the Nazi bombers targeting the shipyards and attempting to destroy them. To camouflage and protect the house, it was blackened with soot so that during the night when the curtains were drawn, the building would disappear into the dark. It worked, and Mar Hall survived the war intact.

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Today, JA Mar Hall offers 74 bedrooms and suites set across the main house and newer buildings around the estate, so guests can choose between baronial opulence and peaceful seclusion. For the ultimate luxury stay, book the Grand Suite. It is more than 1,600 sq ft with a regal king-size four-poster bed and ample space for a family; sweeping views of the gardens and the Clyde; and even a Bentley grand piano in case musical inspiration strikes during your stay. Daylight floods in through the tall sash windows, and you can relax in velvet-upholstered armchairs whilst reading or enjoying a pot of English Breakfast tea.

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Many guests come to JA Mar Hall to play a round or three of golf in an idyllic setting, but the health and wellness experience extends well beyond the green. There is a tranquil indoor pool lined with palms and loungers, hot tubs for a more indulgent dip, and a well-equipped fitness center, but it was the premium spa which was calling my name.

Scotland is well known for its native plants, so I was delighted to see that the JA Mar Hall Spa has a partnership with ishga, an award-winning Scottish skincare brand which takes its name from the Gaelic word for water. Their organic products are made with four different kinds of organic seaweed that they harvest by hand in the Hebrides. Hebridean seaweed is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and bioactive minerals, so it might well be the most beneficial product you ever spread on your face. Or back.

My first experience of the JA Mar Hall Spa was a 55-minute-long full-body treatment which combined aromatherapy, lymphatic drainage, and traditional Swedish massage. The masseuse began with a short consultation to identify any muscle tension and focus areas, tailoring the massage exactly to my needs on the day. The ishga products have the faintest scent of botanicals and the sea, their natural oils balanced perfectly with the seaweed. And in the treatment, the speed of life seems to slow as muscle by muscle you unwind. Peace of mind follows on.

I rarely give much consideration to my back, but sitting over a laptop most days takes its toll, and it is an infamously difficult area to cleanse and exfoliate on your own! JA Mar Hall Spa’s marine back treatment gives your back the attention it deserves, starting with a cleanse, toner, and exfoliation to reinvigorate the skin and make it glow with health. ishga’s heated seaweed clay mask is collagen-boosting and deeply nourishing, and having it applied is a revelation. You’ll wonder why you have never had one before!

I left the spa feeling relaxed but also reinvigorated. And hungry. Who knew that being massaged could work up such an appetite? Sip a cocktail as I did in the hotel’s Slàinte bar, where the wood-panelled interior, large stone fireplace, and marble and brass bar evoke a bygone age. The menu is rooted in JA Mar Hall’s 180-year traditions, and the 180 cocktail celebrates that heritage. It’s a sweet and sour delight for your palate, mixed with the Macallan 12yr Double Cask, Aelder Ana, Sūpāsawā, ginger ale, and chocolate bitters. Move on then to The Dining Room, where both the decor and the cuisine reflect elegant Scottish craftsmanship. The scallops are caught in Orkney, the smoked salmon is cured in whisky, and the venison comes from Newtonmore in the Scottish Highlands. Every mouthful is a succulent taste of Scotland.

jaresortshotels.com

A Letter From Europe: Estonia

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A Letter From Europe: Estonia

Estonia took me by surprise, carefully and slowly opening its arms and drawing me in warmly. To learn about a culture, you first ‘dip in’ to the people who carry it: Estonians are deeply in tune with and entwined in their culture. 

 

 

As a non-Estonian, I first realised how the compact capital city, Tallinn, carries the old, new, and all the green that is in between. But the real magic is outside of the city, and that’s how the Estonians like to keep it. In one of the world’s least religious countries, nature is their church. Long before Christianity arrived, Estonians already had their sacred spaces. Not cathedrals. Groves. Ancient trees, springs, stones: places they didn’t build, but realised nevertheless were holy. 

 

 

They call it hiis – a sacred grove. At first, it seems as if there is something shamanic about it, though no one speaks of shamanism. No one is channelling spirits from another world, but the belief is that the land itself is alive. “The forest doesn’t need translating; you just need to be silent, listen, and hear what it has to say,” is how my forest guide, Marilin Pehka, explained it. You’re always an hour away from your ‘connection’, by car, public transport, or kayak. And projects like ÖÖD Mirror Houses, in the forested village of Lohusalu, 40 minutes west of Tallinn, make it easy to diverge and create a connection with nature, the Estonian way. 

Here, luxury doesn’t shout: it hides. Nearly half of Estonia’s mainland lies under forest, and in Lohusalu the pines don’t stop at some tidy boundary; they march right down to the white sand where the Gulf of Finland begins. That proximity is the whole point of staying here. I step out of my cabin, catch the trees rippling across its mirrored walls like a second forest, pause for the birdsong, and within minutes, my feet are in the sand.

Just when I thought I had grasped the Estonian way of living, I went deep into another layer of spirituality in Kõrvemaa, where it feels like dreaming outside its own borders. While the rest of the country lies flat and unassuming, here the land rises and folds into eskers and hidden valleys, its bogs and mires holding a stillness that feels older than memory. Forest lakes appear without warning, dark and undisturbed, as if the land had kept a few secrets from the rest of the country. It was here that I swam wild in a bog for the first time, in light rain and complete silence. It’s a unique experience for a Londoner like me, but a weekly norm for an Estonian.

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Connection to nature carries right through into the Estonian sauna and into vihtlemine, the practice of whisking the body with a viht, a bundle of leafy branches gathered fresh from the forest. Dry brushing itself is far older than any spa trend; long before it became fashionable, it was ritual. Various Native American traditions treated it as a way to tend spiritual well-being, a physical reminder that the body belongs to the earth. 

Estonian sauna culture, recognised by UNESCO, isn’t so far from that same instinct. The whisking was never really the point — the sauna itself is. It functions as a third space, somewhere between public and private, where you shed more than clothing. Layer by layer, you arrive at something closer to an honest conversation with whoever is sitting beside you. People come here alone, with family, with friends, even with colleagues, because sitting together in that heat, stripped of pretence, builds a kind of closeness that a boardroom or a bar never quite manages. It isn’t about undressing and sweating in a towel. It’s about shedding the layers you carry everywhere else, and there’s nothing awkward about that at all. It’s natural, and it’s accepted. 

There aren’t many places to stay in Kõrvemaa, but I checked into one of the Kuuse Houses, located in the middle of a rich spruce and pine forest near the Sportland Kõrvemaa Hiking and Ski Resort. Quiet luxury follows you here, but keeps you connected with the sacred. The Scandinavian-style architecture seems at one with the forest, not least because large walls of glass let in the light and the view, blurring the line between inside and outside. The only sounds are natural ones—no traffic hum, no planes overhead. There is a sort of stillness which stays with you long after you’ve packed up and gone.

Maybe that’s why secularism never swallowed the spirituality of Estonia: you can’t suppress a religion that was never really a religion, just a way of paying attention.

Estonians don’t go to church; they go outside.

And you can join them.

Kamila

kuusemajad.ee/en

A Letter From Asia: Yerevan, Armenia

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A Letter From Asia: Yerevan, Armenia

My love of Armenia began in the departure lounge, where broad smiles and carefree conversations made for a party atmosphere. Passengers and crew alike knew that we were taking part in something special: the return of direct flights between the UK and Yerevan, Armenia’s capital, after a gap of more than 15 years. 

 

 

For me and for my fellow Brits, it meant that Armenia was now much more feasible for a few days of fascination without the purgatory of a transit stop. As for the Armenians on the flight – part of the 8 million-strong worldwide diaspora – the reconnection was spiritual. And Armenia is a country rich in spirit: the fighting spirit that comes from being landlocked and historically embattled; the holy spirit as the world’s first Christian nation; and, thanks to Soviet trade policies, home to a generous portion of brandy spirit, too. 

As we descended towards Yerevan, at the start of my trip with Armenia travel experts phoenixtour, I had an unexpected moment of unforgettable awe. Lit by a full moon low in the sky were the snowfields of Mount Ararat – a great volcanic cone rising more than 5,000 meters into the night. I knew that the mountain where Noah’s Ark is said to have settled appears on Yerevan’s horizon, but I had not expected it to feel so close and commanding. 

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Each evening of my stay, I found myself drawn to viewpoints across the city: the high terraces of the monumental Cascade Complex, a 10-minute walk from my hotel; the quiet platform of the Genocide Memorial; and the foot of the towering statue of Mother Armenia. From each vantage point, I watched Ararat turn from white to pink in the sunset while Yerevan’s rose-tinted volcanic stone buildings glowed in sympathetic harmony. No wonder Armenians are obsessed with Ararat – a mountain that is the constant companion of much of the home-soil population, yet which sits, because of politics, just over the border with Turkey. That, too, is a legacy of Stalin, the man whose statue was replaced by Mother Armenia.

Apart from falling under the spell of Ararat, the other inevitability in Yerevan is to find yourself in Republic Square. Such enormous spaces are common across former Soviet cities, but this one is different: its orange, red and yellow tufa stone allows for decorative carving far beyond the hammer and sickle. It is glowingly elegant rather than brutal and, perhaps, metaphorically symbolic of the nation as a whole.

Crowning the square, above fountains that play each night in a light and music show, is the History Museum of Armenia, where the nation explains itself. The museum is astonishingly good; its treasures include the world’s oldest shoe, found in a cave alongside the earliest known wine‑making vessels, and a cuneiform tablet marking Yerevan’s foundation in 782 BC – about thirty years before Rome. Armenia has a habit of being the unsung yardstick of what it means to be ancient.

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I stayed at the Imperial Palace Hotel, an imposing building dating from 1927 but fully renovated to meet the demands of modern travelers. The hotel is an important part of Yerevan’s eclectic architectural heritage, parts of which I stumbled upon quite by accident.

On my second day, I peered over a wall and saw a huge, bone-dry fountain shaped like an intricate flower. As it dawned on me that this was a brutalist marvel of Yerevan’s Soviet past, I also realised that it was the entrance to the central metro station. Always somewhat nervous of public transport in unfamiliar cities, I descended with a raised pulse and discovered utter delight: a tap of my debit card let me into another world of rattling three-carriage trains plunging to depths of more than 70 meters. Other stations proved to be just as intriguing, and even though the single line runs for little more than 8 miles, different corners of the city revealed yet more retro gems. My camera shutter was busy.

I’m a sucker for design, and in Yerevan, grace, refinement and sophistication are everywhere—even in the alphabet. Created in the fifth century by the musician Mesrop Mashtots, this beguiling script allowed the Bible to be translated and set Armenia apart from that moment on. The best place to appreciate it is the Manuscript Museum, a treasure trove of thousands of works that testify to the profundity and refinement of Armenian culture.

I ate Western Armenian dishes at Anteb on Yeznik Koghbatsi Street – excellent manti soup and plates rich with aubergine, walnuts and artichoke – in the company of a new local friend. She told me that she held dual Greek nationality and could easily emigrate to any EU country. I asked why she hadn’t. “Yerevan” was all she said in reply. She was right. Though east of Turkey, Yerevan feels like Europe without many of its downsides: it’s safe, civilized, quietly confident, and captivating.

Until we see each other again,

phoenixtour.org

The Heartbeat of the Herd

SR Editor
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The Heartbeat of the Herd

Imagine stepping into the wild at its most majestic. Intimate and private, where nature reigns and conservation is the quiet, powerful undercurrent of every moment. Few organizations translate this grandeur into such a soulful experience, and the award-winning luxury conservation company Great Plains Conservation, in partnership with U.S.-based luxury safari specialist Ultimate Africa Safaris, does so to much aplomb. 

From Mara Nyika Camp in the Maasai Mara to Mara Expedition Camp and Mara Toto Tree Camp to the volcanic-hill highlands of Ol Donyo Lodge, each destination tells a story of harmony between luxury and legacy. As Great Plains operates exclusively through its trusted partners, Ultimate Africa Safaris books the experience and curates every detail to craft a safari that is both profoundly meaningful and flawlessly executed. Together, their collaboration allows the rhythm of the wild and the exquisite service to dance in harmony, to create an experience that is as meaningful as it is magnificent.

From Nairobi, a short flight to the Mara Naboisho Conservancy presents an expanse where wildlife thrives alongside the Maasai community. Amid its acacia-dotted plains lies Mara Nyika Camp, an elegant treehouse of canvas and timber, with elevated walkways that blend seamlessly into the surrounding bush.

Every detail feels deliberate, from the elevated design accented with photographs by proprietor and National Geographic award-winning photographer Beverly Joubert to the expansive tented suites, where staff attend to every whim. Game drives unfold, guided by those who know the land as kin. From lions resting almost in camouflage in the bush, to wildebeest, topis and warthogs grazing, every experience engages the senses. Here, the luxury of solitude directly fuels the preservation of life itself.

The philosophy woven through the conservancy’s model is “Naboisho”, which is “coming together” in Maa. Each guest directly assists with providing for over 500 Maasai families in the surrounding region and also has the chance to have a hands-on experience with the Naboisho Women’s Group. Here guests can experience a morning with these talented women to gain insights into Maasai culture and participate in beading artistry in a setting that celebrates heritage and craftsmanship.

CLOSER TO THE MAASAI MARA NATIONAL RESERVE, MARA EXPEDITION CAMP AND MARA TOTO TREE CAMP CAPTURE THE AUTHENTIC, PERSONAL, AND UNHURRIED AURA OF SAFARI.

At Mara Expedition, mornings begin beside a crackling fire, coffee in hand, as the plains awaken. Days flow with the rhythm of migration and what your expert guide spots in the bush. The land comes alive with motion, providing beautiful memories that will never be forgotten. Back at the camp, canvas tents overlook the riverine forest, blending vintage charm with subtle elegance.

Downstream, Mara Toto Tree Camp rises among the Ntiakitiak River canopy, where hippopotamus linger below and monkeys chatter above. Elevated walkways and soft, natural tones invite complete immersion, a hidden haven within the trees. Accommodating a maximum of eight guests, this tranquil setting allows for a bit of respite with the wild just steps away.

Sustainable conservation is inextricably linked to the communities living among wildlife and protected lands. Without community-supported initiatives, and a focus on the future, lasting conservation legacies are not possible.
Mara Expedition Camp is a magical revisiting of the past, drawing from Africa’s original explorers’ designs and designed for those who search for East Africa’s romantic safari era. Here, you will experience the best of both worlds: the intense action of the Maasai Mara ecosystem, as well as the more private 70,000-acre Mara North Conservancy.

This corner of Mara North Conservancy epitomizes the success of Kenya’s community-led conservation model, where the flourishing of wildlife and livelihoods are bound in mutual prosperity. As such, The Great Plains Foundation, together with Bridging the Gap Africa, has built footbridges and have supported ranger teams. During the rainy season, these bridges now offer safer passage for thousands of people and students across the region. And the direct support of ranger efforts in conservancies – The Olare Motorogi Conservancy and the Enarau Conservancy – bordering the national park, includes training, upgrading of facilities and salary assistance. 

Set within the Chyulu Hills between Tsavo and Amboseli, Ol Donyo Lodge gazes across a timeless landscape of lava flows and Mount Kilimanjaro’s snow-capped crown. Carved from volcanic rock and earth, the lodge features eight deluxe suites and one two-bedroom family Sambu Suite, with private plunge pools and rooftop star beds, where nights unfold beneath galaxies that seem to breathe with the land.

Days bring unbounded adventure—horseback safaris across the plains, mountain biking along volcanic ridges, and guided walks among ancient tracks. From the sunken hide on property, enjoy lunch while elephants appear at eye level, both humbling and intimate.

Yet Ol Donyo’s soul lies equally in its people. Visits to nearby Maasai villages and schools reveal Great Plains’ enduring mission, empowering communities through conservation, education, and opportunity. Here, the Great Plains Foundation hosts Conservation Education Camps for students each year, and sponsors teachers (45 in total) and supports a school feeding program, ensuring students receive a daily nutritious meal at lunch.

Sustainable conservation is inextricably linked to the communities living among wildlife and protected lands. Without community-supported initiatives, and a focus on the future, lasting conservation legacies are not possible.
Sustainable conservation is inextricably linked to the communities living among wildlife and protected lands. Without community-supported initiatives, and a focus on the future, lasting conservation legacies are not possible.

Each one of the lodges presents a grand composition of purpose, deeply grounded in the story of its surroundings and wrapped in exquisite comfort. With the expert orchestration of Ultimate Africa Safaris, whose founder Ian Proctor has worked alongside Dereck and Beverly Joubert for nearly three decades, every detail is perfectly attuned.  

In the words of Dereck Joubert, the only footprint worth leaving is “light, temporary, and never harming what you’ve come to witness.”

Swellegant Stays: The Pig at Harlyn Bay

SR Editor
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Swellegant Stays: The Pig at Harlyn Bay

The Pig at Harlyn Bay puts food above everything else: the concept grew out of a restaurant with rooms, though it’s become one of the most sought-after places to stay in the west of England. 

My room was in the Stonehouse, a former agricultural building in the grounds of the hotel. Whether it housed a horse and cart, a cider press, or a dairy in days gone by, I’m unsure, but the loft space where I stayed has been reimagined into a gorgeous open-plan bedroom and bathroom. The ancient, thick walls ensure it is wonderfully quiet, and I slept soundly in the super-king bed. Should you want the full country farm experience, however, you can also request a shepherd’s hut beside the walled garden. It wouldn’t look out of place in a Thomas Hardy novel. 

Food miles are central to the conversation in the kitchen and in the dining room. Wherever possible, The Pig uses ingredients grown on site or produced by local farms. Every item is proudly tracked, so the waiting staff can tell you exactly which producer reared your lamb, caught your scallops, or grew your greens. Visiting the pigs before dinner may deter you from choosing the pork — the piglets are irresistibly cute — but at least you know they’ve had a happy, stress-free life in idyllic surroundings.

Sommelier Jordan Hildersley loves trying wines from wineries which are off the beaten track, and he has curated an imaginative cellar. We stopped for a pre-dinner drink in The Pig’s atmospheric bar, which feels like it belongs in a stylish country house. Jordan then tailored our wine selection to pair perfectly with every dish; the conversation flowed as readily as the wine, making for a perfect evening. 

Conveniently, Harlyn Bay is right on the Southwest 660, the UK’s most spectacular coastal road. Whilst you can follow the entire route along the fringes of Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, and Somerset, it is just as appealing to slowly wind your way across a couple of stages on the south side of the Bristol Channel, checking into The Pig as your reward.

thepighotel.com

Kitchen garden pickings - Jake Eastham 54
The bar 3 - JAKE EASTHAM
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