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The Heartbeat of the Herd

Imagine stepping into the wild at its most majestic. Intimate and private, where nature reigns and conservation is the quiet, powerful undercurrent of every moment. Few organizations translate this grandeur into such a soulful experience, and the award-winning luxury conservation company Great Plains Conservation, in partnership with U.S.-based luxury safari specialist Ultimate Africa Safaris, does so to much aplomb. 

From Mara Nyika Camp in the Maasai Mara to Mara Expedition Camp and Mara Toto Tree Camp to the volcanic-hill highlands of Ol Donyo Lodge, each destination tells a story of harmony between luxury and legacy. As Great Plains operates exclusively through its trusted partners, Ultimate Africa Safaris books the experience and curates every detail to craft a safari that is both profoundly meaningful and flawlessly executed. Together, their collaboration allows the rhythm of the wild and the exquisite service to dance in harmony, to create an experience that is as meaningful as it is magnificent.

From Nairobi, a short flight to the Mara Naboisho Conservancy presents an expanse where wildlife thrives alongside the Maasai community. Amid its acacia-dotted plains lies Mara Nyika Camp, an elegant treehouse of canvas and timber, with elevated walkways that blend seamlessly into the surrounding bush.

Every detail feels deliberate, from the elevated design accented with photographs by proprietor and National Geographic award-winning photographer Beverly Joubert to the expansive tented suites, where staff attend to every whim. Game drives unfold, guided by those who know the land as kin. From lions resting almost in camouflage in the bush, to wildebeest, topis and warthogs grazing, every experience engages the senses. Here, the luxury of solitude directly fuels the preservation of life itself.

The philosophy woven through the conservancy’s model is “Naboisho”, which is “coming together” in Maa. Each guest directly assists with providing for over 500 Maasai families in the surrounding region and also has the chance to have a hands-on experience with the Naboisho Women’s Group. Here guests can experience a morning with these talented women to gain insights into Maasai culture and participate in beading artistry in a setting that celebrates heritage and craftsmanship.

CLOSER TO THE MAASAI MARA NATIONAL RESERVE, MARA EXPEDITION CAMP AND MARA TOTO TREE CAMP CAPTURE THE AUTHENTIC, PERSONAL, AND UNHURRIED AURA OF SAFARI.

At Mara Expedition, mornings begin beside a crackling fire, coffee in hand, as the plains awaken. Days flow with the rhythm of migration and what your expert guide spots in the bush. The land comes alive with motion, providing beautiful memories that will never be forgotten. Back at the camp, canvas tents overlook the riverine forest, blending vintage charm with subtle elegance.

Downstream, Mara Toto Tree Camp rises among the Ntiakitiak River canopy, where hippopotamus linger below and monkeys chatter above. Elevated walkways and soft, natural tones invite complete immersion, a hidden haven within the trees. Accommodating a maximum of eight guests, this tranquil setting allows for a bit of respite with the wild just steps away.

This corner of Mara North Conservancy epitomizes the success of Kenya’s community-led conservation model, where the flourishing of wildlife and livelihoods are bound in mutual prosperity. As such, The Great Plains Foundation, together with Bridging the Gap Africa, has built footbridges and have supported ranger teams. During the rainy season, these bridges now offer safer passage for thousands of people and students across the region. And the direct support of ranger efforts in conservancies – The Olare Motorogi Conservancy and the Enarau Conservancy – bordering the national park, includes training, upgrading of facilities and salary assistance. 

Set within the Chyulu Hills between Tsavo and Amboseli, Ol Donyo Lodge gazes across a timeless landscape of lava flows and Mount Kilimanjaro’s snow-capped crown. Carved from volcanic rock and earth, the lodge features eight deluxe suites and one two-bedroom family Sambu Suite, with private plunge pools and rooftop star beds, where nights unfold beneath galaxies that seem to breathe with the land.

Days bring unbounded adventure—horseback safaris across the plains, mountain biking along volcanic ridges, and guided walks among ancient tracks. From the sunken hide on property, enjoy lunch while elephants appear at eye level, both humbling and intimate.

Yet Ol Donyo’s soul lies equally in its people. Visits to nearby Maasai villages and schools reveal Great Plains’ enduring mission, empowering communities through conservation, education, and opportunity. Here, the Great Plains Foundation hosts Conservation Education Camps for students each year, and sponsors teachers (45 in total) and supports a school feeding program, ensuring students receive a daily nutritious meal at lunch.

Each one of the lodges presents a grand composition of purpose, deeply grounded in the story of its surroundings and wrapped in exquisite comfort. With the expert orchestration of Ultimate Africa Safaris, whose founder Ian Proctor has worked alongside Dereck and Beverly Joubert for nearly three decades, every detail is perfectly attuned.  

In the words of Dereck Joubert, the only footprint worth leaving is “light, temporary, and never harming what you’ve come to witness.”

Swellegant Stays: The Pig at Harlyn Bay

The Pig at Harlyn Bay puts food above everything else: the concept grew out of a restaurant with rooms, though it’s become one of the most sought-after places to stay in the west of England. 

My room was in the Stonehouse, a former agricultural building in the grounds of the hotel. Whether it housed a horse and cart, a cider press, or a dairy in days gone by, I’m unsure, but the loft space where I stayed has been reimagined into a gorgeous open-plan bedroom and bathroom. The ancient, thick walls ensure it is wonderfully quiet, and I slept soundly in the super-king bed. Should you want the full country farm experience, however, you can also request a shepherd’s hut beside the walled garden. It wouldn’t look out of place in a Thomas Hardy novel. 

Food miles are central to the conversation in the kitchen and in the dining room. Wherever possible, The Pig uses ingredients grown on site or produced by local farms. Every item is proudly tracked, so the waiting staff can tell you exactly which producer reared your lamb, caught your scallops, or grew your greens. Visiting the pigs before dinner may deter you from choosing the pork — the piglets are irresistibly cute — but at least you know they’ve had a happy, stress-free life in idyllic surroundings.

Sommelier Jordan Hildersley loves trying wines from wineries which are off the beaten track, and he has curated an imaginative cellar. We stopped for a pre-dinner drink in The Pig’s atmospheric bar, which feels like it belongs in a stylish country house. Jordan then tailored our wine selection to pair perfectly with every dish; the conversation flowed as readily as the wine, making for a perfect evening. 

Conveniently, Harlyn Bay is right on the Southwest 660, the UK’s most spectacular coastal road. Whilst you can follow the entire route along the fringes of Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, and Somerset, it is just as appealing to slowly wind your way across a couple of stages on the south side of the Bristol Channel, checking into The Pig as your reward.

thepighotel.com

Gastronomic Gallivants: IZZA Marrakech

In a quiet fold of Marrakech’s Medina, where the lanes narrow and the city’s pulse gathers into something intimate and unfiltered, lies a riad which has quietly reimagined what hospitality in the old city can be. IZZA sits just moments away from the souks, yet feels worlds away from the intensity that surrounds it. For travelers seeking modern comfort without fanfare — where art, atmosphere, and the warmth of service outweigh old-world formality — it has become something of a well-kept secret.

Walking through the squeezed souks of the Medina, Marrakech’s beating heart, you inhale the spirit of the old city. A motorcycle hums towards you, a cat threads between your feet, the traditional call to prayer drifts across tiled rooftops, a Berber man offers a genuine smile of welcome, and somewhere very close, the slow, tempting scent of tagine escapes from a neighbor’s kitchen. You experience all of this before you even reach IZZA’s door. And it is only a glimpse of what awaits.

Inside the hotel, the noise softens, but the soul of the city remains. IZZA is Marrakesh’s house of friends — a concept built for creative spirits, the kinds of travelers who arrive hungry for something new and leave having found something much more personal. The first impression is not visual but sensory: a scent which is refreshing, unfamiliar, inviting. Then, the walls come into focus. Each corridor is lined with works by Moroccan artists, hung proudly and accompanied by QR codes which unravel the stories behind them. You want to devour every inch of the space, afraid of losing sight of something intriguing. There is a playfulness here, but also purpose; the art is not decoration, but expression.

The riad holds just fourteen rooms, each with a character of its own. The rooms at IZZA borrow from the Medina’s palette while holding firm to their individuality. Some are painted in the warm terracotta of the city’s walls; others lean into indigo, emerald, or chalky white. All share an underlying simplicity which encourages deep rest. There are no televisions, but books fill every corner. My room, Christina, had One Thousand and One Nights on the bedside table — a quiet prompt that stories are woven into this place. Mornings begin with a sweet treat from the pastry chef, left at your door: a delicate pastry one day, a sweet Moroccan tangerine the next. It’s a small ritual, but it sets the tone — indulgent, yes, but grounded.

From the moment you arrive, the atmosphere is set. Polished but personal, indulgent but never pompous. IZZA’s charm does not lie in grand gestures, but in the ease with which one slips into its rhythm. There are no stressful check-ins, no heavy choreography, no pressure to perform relaxation. Staff remember your preferences — whether you prefer mint tea with less sugar, or which armchair in the lounge you favored the day before — and somehow anticipate the rest. You feel not handled, but held.

At the center of IZZA’s appeal is its sense of place: traditional zellij tiles glint under soft light; terracotta floors cool bare feet; carved wooden doors open into courtyards which feel centuries old. Yet the design is modern in spirit: curated rather than cluttered, bright rather than dark. It respects tradition without replicating it.

“WHAT SETS IZZA APART IS THE EASE WITH WHICH IT BECOMES A RETREAT.”

Downstairs, Bill’s Bar is intimate, understated and effortlessly atmospheric. It is the kind of place where you might sit for a quick drink and remain long after, lulled by low lighting, soft music and the murmur of conversation. The cocktails strike a confident balance between Moroccan influence and contemporary techniques: citrus-laced, herb-scented, and, occasionally, smoky. Snack plates drift between tables — olives warm with spices, toasted almonds, slivers of preserved lemon — small enough not to distract from your conversation, or to disrupt your appetite for dinner, but flavorful enough to remember.

Up on the rooftop, Noujoum offers a contrast. Here, the city opens beneath you. Minarets punctuate the skyline; terracotta houses stretch into the distance; the Atlas Mountains appear, on clear days, like a mirage. The open kitchen adds a touch of theater, but it never tries to steal the show. Dishes lean into the region’s culinary heritage: lamb rubbed with cumin and coriander, aubergine grilled until its flesh collapses into smoke, salads bright with citrus and herbs. A simple bowl of lentils — earthy, peppered, and finished with a drizzle of argan oil — can linger in your memory long after more elaborate plates fade. Desserts at Noujoum? They’re not overly sweet, but nevertheless deeply satisfying.

The hotel’s drinks list is broad, exploring both familiar and unexpected regions. Moroccan wines — surprisingly elegant — appear alongside French classics and bolder choices from Lebanon and South Africa. For those not drinking alcohol, iced teas infused with saffron, mint or rose offer the sophistication of a cocktail without the weight.

Yet the food, as excellent as it is, only scratches the surface. What sets IZZA apart is the ease with which it becomes a retreat. Its rhythm encourages you to slow down — to read, nap, wander its corridors, or sit with a coffee and watch the sun scatter across the courtyard tiles. You might return from the Jardin Majorelle to find your cushions fluffed and the faint scent of orange blossom drifting through your room. Or wake early to find the courtyards still quiet, save for the sound of a fountain and the distant call to prayer.

Up on the rooftop, Noujoum offers a contrast. Here, the city opens beneath you. Minarets punctuate the skyline; terracotta houses stretch into the distance; the Atlas Mountains appear, on clear days, like a mirage. The open kitchen adds a touch of theater, but it never tries to steal the show. Dishes lean into the region’s culinary heritage: lamb rubbed with cumin and coriander, aubergine grilled until its flesh collapses into smoke, salads bright with citrus and herbs. A simple bowl of lentils — earthy, peppered, and finished with a drizzle of argan oil — can linger in your memory long after more elaborate plates fade. Desserts at Noujoum? They’re not overly sweet, but nevertheless deeply satisfying.

The hotel’s drinks list is broad, exploring both familiar and unexpected regions. Moroccan wines — surprisingly elegant — appear alongside French classics and bolder choices from Lebanon and South Africa. For those not drinking alcohol, iced teas infused with saffron, mint or rose offer the sophistication of a cocktail without the weight.

Yet the food, as excellent as it is, only scratches the surface. What sets IZZA apart is the ease with which it becomes a retreat. Its rhythm encourages you to slow down — to read, nap, wander its corridors, or sit with a coffee and watch the sun scatter across the courtyard tiles. You might return from the Jardin Majorelle to find your cushions fluffed and the faint scent of orange blossom drifting through your room. Or wake early to find the courtyards still quiet, save for the sound of a fountain and the distant call to prayer.

If you choose to explore beyond the Medina, the riad is well positioned. Jemaa el-Fnaa, with its storytellers and food stalls, is a short walk away. The Bahia Palace, with its painted ceilings and intricate mosaics, lies close enough for a morning visit. And for those seeking something slower, the hammams and gardens hidden throughout the city offer their own kind of pilgrimage. Scenic, measured, and rewarding — Marrakech invites you into steady, sensory experiences that justify a return to IZZA’s quiet at the end of the day.

 

Breakfast at IZZA is far from a formality. Whether taken on the rooftop or delivered to your room, it is cooked to order and taken seriously. Moroccan msemen arrives warm and flaky, served with honey and amlou; eggs are soft and creamy; fruit is sliced just before serving. Coffee is strong, mint tea is fresh, and everything is presented with the same care that defines the evenings. At IZZA, food is never filler.

Whether you come for the art, the Medina, or the rooftop evenings under rising stars, IZZA offers a contemporary, quietly luxurious interpretation of Marrakech hospitality. It is a place where indulgence does not shout, where service feels natural, and where everything — from the tiles underfoot to the pastry left at your door — feels considered. It is humble in manner but proud of its identity, and that, truly, is the essence of modern luxury.

A house of friends, yes — but also a house of stories, scent, light and welcome. A place that stays with you long after you’ve stepped back into the maze of the Medina.

izza.com 

Out and About – Tbilisi, Georgia

For decades, London and Berlin fought for recognition as Europe’s coolest capital. But now those in the know head east to Tbilisi for a cosmopolitan nightlife which is as diverse as it is affordable. Georgia’s quirkiest, most photogenic city has a youthful energy all of its own, and with good international flight connections and world-class hotels, it’s fast becoming a must-visit destination for those who like to party. Swanky Retreats went out and about to find Tbilisi’s very best bars and clubs.

The world’s first Rolling Stone Rooftop Bar opened in Tbilisi in fall 2025, bringing the iconic rock brand to Tbilisi’s landmark Telegraph Hotel. Funk-rock bassist and singer-songwriter Nik West took to the stage on the opening night, and the line-up of musicians who have followed her is no less impressive, delivering soundtracks ranging from soul to electronica which bring everyone onto the dancefloor.

Bassiani is the largest techno club in Tbilisi, packed with up to 1,200 ravers on a big weekend. The music hits hard and so does the venue: it’s a moody, industrial-looking space originally built as the swimming pool beneath the Dinamo Arena. The club attracts big-name international artists – Americans Zak Khutoretsky (DVS1) and David Charles Sumner (Function) have both been resident DJs – and also promotes homegrown Georgian talent like Gigi Jikia (HVL) and Tornike Kvanchiani (Kvanchi).

Chic café by day, stylish bar by night, Bell & Gray is a visual masterpiece created by the Shanghai-based architecture and design firm Neri&Hu around the skeleton of Tbilisi’s Brutalist telegraph building. Dress to the nines and choose a drink from the very extensive spirits list, or take a chance and ask the bartender to surprise you.

Fabrika is an uber-cool hostel and multi-function cultural center with bars and restaurants, a record store, print shop, film lab, and artists’ studios. When the heat of a summer’s day fades, life at Fabrika shifts to the huge open courtyard and the party starts. Buy your cocktails from GUM, natural wines from Saamuri, or a beer from Moulin Electrique, sit outside, and soak up the vibes. Often there’s live music or a DJ.

On the 18th floor of the Radisson Blu Iveria you will find the Oxygen Bar, and with it, a view of Tbilisi’s skyline to take your breath away. Book a table just before sunset and watch the sun go down whilst sipping on sophisticated cocktails: this is the city’s most romantic location for a date!

As we made our way east from the airport, the paved motorway soon turned into a wide dirt road. Shortly after, we entered the Thornybush Nature Reserve, and any semblance of a road quickly disappeared into tire-track trails, winding this way and that, through the low-lying vegetation peppered with baobab and marula trees. I had (incorrectly) assumed that once we reached the lodge we would be taken to some ‘other location’ to try and spot the wildlife that we had travelled so far to witness, but I quickly realized that we were already immersed in the bush. It wasn’t long before we came upon a herd of buffalo resting in a field accompanied by a few zebras and a sounder of warthogs with their newborn piglets. We hadn’t even completed the transfer from the airport, and we had encountered one of the ‘Big Five’ species. I was elated and trying to get as many pictures as I could when Nik assured me that we would see plenty more that afternoon on our first game drive. Nevertheless, my eyes remained peeled and my camera at the ready for the rest of the journey to the lodge.

If Barbie and Wes Anderson joined forces to open a cocktail bar, it would probably look like the Pink Bar at Stamba. Order the signature Stamba Mule (vodka, lavender, mixed berries, ginger, and lime), preferably accompanied by one of the bar’s mouthwatering desserts, for the most convivial evening.

Tatuza Jazz Club has been open for less than a year but has quickly become the crown jewel of Tbilisi’s live music scene. Named in honor of the legendary Georgian jazzman Tatuza Kurashvili, Tatuza hosts up to 30 live performances every month and has already seen the likes of Dennis Rollins, Vincen Garcia, Omar Kabir, and the Pere Navarro Trio take to the stage.

The Bar and Lounge sits on the ground floor of Rooms, a Soviet-era publishing house which has been converted into a Design Hotel. Master mixologists serve handcrafted cocktails and gourmet snacks until the early hours of the morning, making this an atmospheric spot for a nightcap.

georgia.travel/cities-towns/tbilisi 

Swellegant Stays: Naila Fort, Jaipur

Rajasthan means ‘The Land of Kings,’ and there could be no more apt name for this Indian state. It seems that every village, every town, has its prince and its palace, but they are all dwarfed by the opulence of the rulers of Jaipur and their lavish homes. 

Many of India’s erstwhile royal families have turned to tourism to finance their lifestyles and keep their palatial residences intact. And so it is that Naila Fort, built in 1894 by the Champaway clan, has found a new lease of life as the Oberoi Group’s first luxury residence. It opened its doors to guests in February 2026, and is now one of the most exclusive places to stay in Rajasthan.

Naila Fort is a private heritage home, perched atop the Aravalli Hills in a location which is wonderfully peaceful but still close enough to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Jaipur to be convenient for sightseeing. Available for exclusive use, the property is a patchwork of sunlit courtyard, expansive terrace, and stone archways. It even has a private Hindu temple. The fort’s architectural legacy has been preserved and restored, with new facilities enhancing its value for generations to come.

Though the fort will understandably attract history lovers, its culinary offering is equally strong. Guests take their meals in the intimate dining hall, which glitters with delicate mirror work. It’s also possible to dine al fresco in the gardens or beside the swimming pool. The chefs draw their inspiration from the traditional recipes of the Rajput and Mughal courts, so you’ll not only sleep like a monarch, you’ll eat like one as well. 

There are just four sumptuously decorated bedrooms at Naila Fort, so choose carefully the friends and family you treat to a stay. The rooms are decorated with antique furnishings and original artworks carefully curated by Oberoi’s interior design team. When you are ready to escape the pressures of the modern world, the elegant salons of Naila await.

oberoihotels.com/luxury-residences/naila-fort-jaipur

Swellegant Stays: Mharo Khet, Jodhpur

There are few hotels in the world where agritourism takes center stage like Mharo Khet in Jodhpur. Mharo Khet translates as “my farm”, offering a sneak peek into the farm-first, hospitality-second ethos of the brand. Swanky Retreats was treated to a preview of the property which helps guests connect with a more human version of agricultural living. 

The farm was purchased in 1989 by founder Rajnush Agarwal’s grandfather, as the primary land to grow fresh produce for the family. Two generations later, Agarwal has turned the land into a minimalistic 10-key property curating experiences rooted in the land’s culture — kathak, charpai weaving, and champi. 

The design elements are owed to architect Pierre Coffrant who has created a native and minimalistic touch to the property. The interiors are entirely designed by Vedika Prasad with personalization woven into the brand’s identity along with the sentiment of a local India on a global stage. The hand-embroidered artworks are from Patan and Chanasma villages, the rugs from Bhadohi, and the block print artworks from Kilol. Every cottage is distinctly themed after a raga (an Indian classical music note). 

Bishan Singh, the head of the farm, has been a key member of Mharo Khet since its inception in 1989. He has watched the delicate mulberry trees grow into giants from saplings. Among other pastimes, guests enjoy a farm walk spanning a variety of teas, fruits, vegetables, herbs, edible flowers, and millets. 

Dining at Mharo Khet is experimental and vegetarian only. At Paeru, the outdoor restaurant, guests can enjoy a nine-course farm-to-table experience curated by Executive Chef Ishan Ahluwalia. Samaa, the indoor restaurant, boasts Indian-forward cuisine like never before. Aab is right by the heated pool, and this is where cocktails come alive with farm-fresh herbs. 

To stay at Mharo Khet is to experience agricultural living blended with modernity, minimalism, and the essence of India. Mharo Khet presents the opportunity to experience age-old Rajasthani traditions with an understanding of temporal shifts, climate change, and how going back in time can also represent walking into the future.

mharokhet.com

Spa Uncommon – Relais Cooden Beach

Tucked along the quiet shores of Bexhill on Sea, The Relais Cooden Beach is one of those rare coastal finds which soothes the soul the moment you arrive. The waves break just beyond the terrace, gulls wheel lazily across the horizon, and the soft scent of salt and seaweed hangs in the air. Once the private home of the De La Warr family, this Arts and Crafts style building has been beautifully restored, transformed into a seaside sanctuary where history, design, and wellbeing blend effortlessly. At its heart lies the hotel’s newest addition, a tranquil spa which has turned this elegant escape into one of the most restorative destinations on England’s south coast.

There is something quietly indulgent about a hotel where you can step straight from your suite onto the sand. The Relais is one of the few in England to offer this rare privilege. Here, mornings begin with the shimmer of sunlight on the English Channel, and evenings drift into golden hour cocktails on the terrace; the sea breeze cool and fragrant. Cooden Beach station is only a short walk away, making it an easy journey from London, yet worlds apart in spirit. Every detail, from the fresh coastal air to the thoughtful inclusion of electric vehicle charging points, reflects a sense of modern simplicity and care.

The new Relais Spa, unveiled in July 2024, is a calm and contemporary space designed for complete relaxation. Its interiors take their cue from the landscape outside: pale wood, soft coastal light and delicate shades of sea glass and stone. The atmosphere is peaceful and cocooning, made for slow mornings and unhurried afternoons.

Guests move between the vitality pool, where water laps gently against tiled edges, and the aroma essence steam room, fragrant with essential oils. The infrared sauna provides deep warmth and quiet solitude; while the treatment rooms offer therapies using products by Pelegrims, a local brand whose formulas harness the antioxidant power of English grape extracts. Each treatment feels deeply connected to its setting, a dialogue between sea, skin and sense of self.

The therapists are as intuitive as they are skilled, adapting each ritual to what the body needs most. As you lie still and listen to the faint sound of waves beyond the window, it becomes easy to forget time altogether. The spa is not large, but that intimacy is part of its appeal. It feels personal, nurturing and profoundly peaceful — the kind of space where relaxation is not a luxury but a natural state of being.

Throughout the rest of the hotel, a sense of calm elegance continues. The design echoes the tones of the shoreline: deep ocean blues, warm neutrals and sun-washed wood. Each of the 45 guest rooms has been individually refurbished to balance comfort with understated sophistication. Crisp linens, arched doorways, and wainscot-paneled headboards nod to the building’s heritage, while contemporary furniture and soft lighting lend a fresh, modern finish. The result is a hotel which feels both timeless and quietly confident — a place which invites you to settle in and exhale.

At The Rally Bar & Restaurant, the philosophy of wellness extends naturally to the food. The menu champions local produce, with seafood landed by Sussex fishermen and seasonal vegetables from nearby farms. Dishes are light, flavorful, and unpretentious, designed to let the ingredients speak for themselves. The restaurant opens directly onto the beachfront terrace, where guests linger over the catch of the day or a chilled glass of English wine as the tide creeps in.

While the menu remains concise, its strength lies in its simplicity and provenance. The flavors are clean, the presentation restrained, and the service unhurried. Later, the bar provides an easy transition from sea-breeze afternoons to candlelit evenings, the windows framing silhouettes of the shore as night falls across the Channel.

The Relais Cooden Beach is a place which restores balance without effort. It is elegant but unpretentious, rooted in its coastal surroundings yet refined in every detail. The new spa brings a sense of completeness to the experience — a space that embodies the peace and rhythm of the sea itself. From the whisper of waves outside your room to the quiet warmth of the sauna, everything here encourages you to slow down, breathe deeply, and simply be.

This is the English seaside at its most sophisticated: calm, confident, and beautifully understated. Whether you come for a weekend of rest or a longer escape, The Relais Cooden Beach offers the perfect reminder that wellness can be found not in grand gestures but in stillness, simplicity, and the sound of the sea.

https://therelaiscoodenbeach.com

Silk Road by Private Jet

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When Marco Polo took his fabled journey from Venice, Italy to the court of the Mongol ruler Kublai Khan in China, he spent long, difficult years on the road. He could never have imagined that seven centuries after his death, adventurous travelers could take to the skies and recreate much of his travels — the best bits, at least — in a little over two weeks. Orbridge has built its reputation combining luxury travel with rich educational experiences, and in 2026 is launching a remarkable, 17-day odyssey along and above the world’s most alluring route: welcome to the Silk Road by private jet.

“The Palace is famed for its fine art collection and its views straight onto the Grand Canal, so nothing beats a glass of crisp Italian wine on the roof terrace just as the sun comes down.”

The jet in question is Orbridge’s Bombardier Global 6000, an immaculately designed and equipped VIP plane small enough to access private hangers. Two pilots and a highly experienced crew provide the highest levels of service, ensuring that the hours spent onboard fly by. The plane is based at London’s Stansted Airport, the ideal launchpad for a trip to some of the greatest cities in the ancient and medieval worlds. 

Your tour begins in earnest in Venice, the pearl of the Adriatic Sea and the western terminus of the Silk Road. Historically, Venetians made their money trading silks, spices, and other exotic goods, and they invested it in their floating city, where the exquisite architecture seems like something from a fantasy novel. Guests stay in the 15th-century Gritti Palace, which was at one time the private residence of the Doge of Venice. The Palace is famed for its fine art collection and its views straight onto the Grand Canal, so nothing beats a glass of crisp Italian wine on the roof terrace just as the sun comes down. Yes, St. Mark’s Basilica is on the sightseeing itinerary, but so too are private spaces you would otherwise be unlikely to see, including the luxurious family run textiles company, Fondazione Rubelli, and the Gothic palazzo which was once the studio of artist and inventor Mario Fortuny.

Having immersed yourself in Venetian delights, it’s time to turn your face to the east and fly the 6-7 hours to Almaty, the erstwhile capital of Kazakhstan. Close to the border with China and surrounded by a scenic ring of mountains, this is your first taste of the Orient. Using the Ritz Carlton as a base, you can easily tour photogenic Ascension Cathedral and contrast this Russian Orthodox masterpiece with the nomadic folk culture of the Kazakh people, whose ancestors dominated the Eurasian steppe.     

By plane, it is only a short hop across the border to Uzbekistan, a journey which would have taken Silk Road caravans weeks. Prepare to be dazzled by the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Samarkand and Bukhara, cities which amazed everyone from Alexander the Great and Genghis Khan, to a generation of imperial British and Russian spies. The Hilton Samarkand Regency and the Wyndham Bukhara offer warm Uzbek hospitality in comfortable surroundings, but you’ll be inpatient to get out and explore.

In Samarkand, the medieval monuments dazzle. The Registan, the Gur-i Amir, and the Shah-i Zinda represent the architectural and artistic heights of the Timurid Renaissance and the wealth and power of this ancient city. Likewise, in Bukhara you can wander through the well preserved Old Town, marveling at the glittering tiles of the mosques and madrassas, many of which hark back to the Golden Age of Islam.

With thousands of miles to cover, you cannot linger too long: Tbilisi is calling! Georgia straddles Europe and Asia, culturally and geographically. The country’s vibrant, eclectic capital buzzes with energy and a strong and proud identity drawn from Georgian Orthodox roots. Of all the cities you can visit on this itinerary, Tbilisi is undeniably the most cool, so you will want to spend at least an hour or two wandering the streets, drinking in bars, shopping in boutiques, and soaking up the vibe.

The Tbilisi Marriott Hotel, Orbridge’s chosen hotel for this tour, is a grand building on Shota Rustaveli, Tbilisi’s answer to the Champs-Élysées. The hotel is the anchor for excursions, including to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Mtskheta and the rock-cut city of Uplistsikhe, so you can pack a lot of sightseeing into two days. But what the Georgian people are most proud of is their viticulture heritage: Georgians invented winemaking 8,000 years ago, and have been enjoying natural wines ever since. Look out for top brands which make their wines in qvevris, terracotta vessels akin to amphorae. Lagvinari is my particular favorite.

No Silk Road itinerary would be complete without Istanbul, the final destination before returning to London. The city’s previous names, Constantinople and Byzantium, remind us of its cultural diversity and how far its rulers projected their power. Arriving by private jet, you see from the air how the Bosphorus and the seas have shaped Istanbul, and this sentiment only grows on the first evening’s sunset cruise. Istanbul is a city as well connected by water as it is by land. 

Even today, Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar still looks and feels like the backdrop for an oriental fairytale. Shop for pouches of spices and sticky cubes of rose water flavored lokum, Turkish Delight. The bad worked leather goods and silk carpets are also tempting. But if you have had enough of the labyrinthine bazaar’s 1,000 shops, get ready for more ancient treasures. Istanbul’s Hippodrome was the centerpiece of the Byzantine Empire, the Hagia Sophia is a marvel of art and engineering, and at the Topkapi Palace Museum you’ll be exposed to the opulent lifestyles of the Ottoman Sultan. 

Perhaps the most unforgettable of all the activities and experiences Orbridge has curated in Istanbul, however, is to see a whirling dervish performance inside the atmospheric Serefiye Cistern, a structure which is already 1,600 years old. Traditionally, dervishes follow the Mevlevi Order of Sufi Islam, and they whirl in a form of meditation, believing that it will bring them closer to God. What is certain is that when you finally return to the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus for the night, your head, too, will be spinning with thoughts of all the extraordinary things you have seen. 

42 meals, 21 expert-led excursions, seven flights, six countries, and one extraordinary adventure. If Marco Polo could have flown along the Silk Road on Orbridge’s private jet, he would.

orbridge.com

A Letter From Asia: Sri Lanka

Ayubowan!

Traveling in Sri Lanka is like coming home. Three generations of my family have a deep personal connection with the Pearl of the Indian Ocean: love stories which spanned continents, the births of children, and friendships which have lasted decades. This fall, I have returned for the first time since my teens. It’s a family holiday, but now my brother, his partner, and I are approaching middle age, and our parents – thankfully still with us and no less adventurous – are old enough to appreciate a slower, more comfortable journey in a country which has shaped us all in so many ways.

There are three places I particularly want to tell you about, because they epitomize what is special about this beautiful island. First on my list is Thamaravila, a luxury tented game lodge in the Wilpattu National Park. Wilpattu is the largest protected area in the country, and as it was closed to the public for 16 years during Sri Lanka’s civil war, the lack of human interference has given the flora and fauna a chance to thrive. I came here to see Wilpattu’s world renowned leopard population, but was just as enthralled by the sight of elephants, water buffalo, and deer, plus countless species of birds.

Kandy, I would say, is the cultural heart of Sri Lanka, and hence is my second pick for this letter. This is where my mother spent her formative years, in a colonial bungalow not far from the lake; but where you (and I) want to stay is the Grand Serendib Hotel. It is close to the famous Temple of the Tooth, named after a relic of the Buddha, and there are remarkable views from the rooftop. This is the ideal base for sightseeing – the Royal Botanical Gardens with its world famous orchid collection, the Pallekele International Cricket Stadium, and the Bahirawakanda Temple amongst the top locations – but I also recommend scheduling dinner in the hotel’s Grand Sky Lounge. It’s romantic, even when your dates are your younger sibling and parents!

Kandy, which was the capital of the historic Kingdom of Kandy from the 15th to the 19th centuries, is idyllic and fascinating in equal measure, whatever time of the year you want to visit. But if you are able to choose when to come, nothing beats the Kandy Esala Perahera, also known as the  Festival of the Tooth, which takes place annually in July or August. The exact dates are dictated by the lunar calendar. The festival’s nightly parades are dramatically lit with thousands of fairy lights, the dancers’ bells tinkling, and the sacred casket is carried solemnly on the back of a ceremonial elephant. I like to imagine my grandparents standing on the same street almost 70 years ago, watching a very similar spectacle. Perhaps one day my goddaughter will witness it too. 

For me, Sri Lanka – Ceylon – is synonymous with tea, and every morning starts with a generously large pot brewed from loose leaves. It is only right, then, that my third recommendation to you is W15 Lake Gregory in the middle of Nuwara Eliya, the island’s most famous tea growing region. The hotel has a sublime setting overlooking both the lake and Galway Land National Park. The architecture and decor is reminiscent of the tea planters bungalows in which my grandpa once lived, and if you are interested in tea, there are plenty of experiences to immerse yourself in and learn about this all important plant. 

How about a picnic in a tea garden, or a tour of the Pedro Tea Factory?  And of course, you must do a tea tasting, where you will learn how to identify a first flush from a second flush, and why green tea and black tea taste so different, despite coming from the very same plant. A packet of tea is a lightweight and inexpensive souvenir or gift, and it is easily transported back home. What is more, when you brew those leaves months from now and sit quietly sipping from your cup, you’ll be transported in your mind to Serendib,  with all the memories of relaxing on this heavenly isle.

Until next time!

Royal Malewane – Luxury in the Lowveld

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As a veteran of the road, it’s often easy to convince myself that I’m the one in control when travelling and that I make the decisions that culminate to a specific outcome or experience. But when I take a step back and look at the beautiful chaos of travel, I can’t help but appreciate, or at the very least leave room for, a small margin of magic.

“Travel, and the people you meet along the way, really are incredible.”

Enter Barry Strick; a jovial gentleman who was on a road trip from New York to the Florida Keys, and who just so happened to also be staying at The Ritz Carlton Amelia Island while I was there for the Amelia Island Cookout last October. Upon hearing him speak, I instantly recognized him to be from South Africa and after exchanging the typical pleasantries, I told him that I was headed to Cape Town in a couple of months. He mentioned he had a tour company, Restio Travel, and would happily give me a list of recommendations.

We continued chatting as we meandered the halls and made our way to the oceanside fireplace where he regaled me with stories of The Mother City’s infamous dining scene, and while Barry was gushing over his favorite vineyards in Franschhoek, I could feel my excitement for this trip growing by the second. When he paused and asked me, “Have you booked a safari?” I admitted that I had succumbed to decision fatigue, as there were multiple regions and countless lodges to choose from. He said he knew just the place and that he would make a call in the morning to see if they had any availability during my dates.

By the time I awoke the next day, Barry was likely halfway to the Keys, and as my excitement slowly faded into a hangover, I feared that our interaction may have been another booze-fueled conversation that would smolder and eventually extinguish like the embers of the previous night’s fire. I didn’t know it at the time, but the safari lodge Barry had in mind was called The Royal Malewane – a group of five-star safari lodges adjacent to Greater Kruger National Park and part of the Royal Portfolio, which has produced some of South Africa’s most well-known and highly regarded hotels and restaurants including the Silo in Cape Town, the Birkenhead House in Hermanus, and La Residence in Franschhoek.

A few days after our meeting, I was relieved to receive an email from Barry saying he had managed to secure me a villa at The Royal Malewane’s Waterside Lodge, which is where I now sit as I write this – parked under the African stars next to another glowing fire, over eight thousand miles away from where we met several months ago. Travel, and the people you meet along the way, really are incredible.

After several gloriously gluttonous days eating and drinking our way through Franschhoek, my partner and I jumped on a regional flight from Cape Town to Hoedspruit, approximately 450 miles from Johannesburg as the crow flies, to begin our safari adventure. The expanse of the landscape was immediately noticeable on approach to the rural airport. The ground below boasted seemingly unlimited shades of green, scarred by reddish dirt roads sprawling chaotically in every direction and resembling cracks in the surface of an enormous green vase.

At the arrival gate we were greeted by Nik; a burly, dark-haired fellow with a neatly trimmed beard that I took an instant liking to, and who would turn out to be our lead bush guide for the next few days. Raised in Johannesburg, Nik spent his youth exploring the bushveld (the sub-tropical, savanna woodland ecoregion in Southern Africa) with his family on weekends. He eventually studied Nature Conservation in Pretoria before being selected as the first intake for the Royal Malewane’s apprenticeship program nineteen years ago, and he has been employed with them ever since. We climbed into his Land Cruiser and comfortably made our way to the lodge, curiously probing him for tales of the unbridled African wilderness.

As we made our way east from the airport, the paved motorway soon turned into a wide dirt road. Shortly after, we entered the Thornybush Nature Reserve, and any semblance of a road quickly disappeared into tire-track trails, winding this way and that, through the low-lying vegetation peppered with baobab and marula trees. I had (incorrectly) assumed that once we reached the lodge we would be taken to some ‘other location’ to try and spot the wildlife that we had travelled so far to witness, but I quickly realized that we were already immersed in the bush. It wasn’t long before we came upon a herd of buffalo resting in a field accompanied by a few zebras and a sounder of warthogs with their newborn piglets. We hadn’t even completed the transfer from the airport, and we had encountered one of the ‘Big Five’ species. I was elated and trying to get as many pictures as I could when Nik assured me that we would see plenty more that afternoon on our first game drive. Nevertheless, my eyes remained peeled and my camera at the ready for the rest of the journey to the lodge.

“I had told the team that I wanted to try as many local game meats during our stay as possible, and they delivered.”

We arrived at our destination in the late afternoon and as we pulled up to the entrance we were greeted by the entire hospitality team, each offering a welcoming wave and an even bigger smile. The Waterside Lodge, so named as it sits on the bank of a dammed reservoir, is one of seven luxury lodges and villas that make up the Royal Malewane. It is comprised of multiple, detached, single story, open-air buildings featuring lofty ceilings with exposed wooden beams and thick reeded roofs. The lobby, as it were, featured an indoor dining room with retractable glass panels and a beautiful water view, as well as a covered outdoor bar that overlooked the alfresco dining area shaded by towering fever trees. We were invited to enjoy a drink at the bar while our bags were escorted to our villa, and I relished the opportunity to have my new favorite cocktail since arriving in South Africa – a brandy Old Fashioned.

Each luxury villa was uniquely presented in vibrant colors inspired by the rich history of Africa, blending modern amenities and design, juxtaposed with Victorian-era furniture and hand-carved wooden cabinetry.

The doors and their frames, also carved by hand, looked as if they had been reclaimed from a time long ago and given a new life out of respect of the lost artisans who crafted them. The entrance opened into a cozy living room with a fireplace and the opposite wall, which was composed almost entirely of full-length sliding glass panels, revealing a private deck and plunge pool that looked out over the untamed wilderness. The master bedroom was beautifully appointed with more handmade furniture and a bed that looked as if it had been woven from threads made of clouds. The His-and-Her’s bathrooms were virtually mirror-image, save for the free-standing bathtub in Hers that was perched in front of double glass doors that opened onto the deck, so that one could soak in the tub with a glass of Cap Classique, while also soaking up the views of the expansive horizon.

Hungry from our travels, we finished our welcome cocktails and sat at a table next to the water where we were presented with individual menus tailored to our dining preferences, adorned with our names and the day’s date. Three times a day, every day for the remainder of our stay, we were given a new menu with a dozen new dishes to choose from, each sounding better than the next. The hardest part of every meal was choosing what to eat, since you knew that next time you sat down, these items would all be swapped out with a new barrage of choices to contend with.

I had told the team that I wanted to try as many local game meats during our stay as possible, and they delivered. Seared loin of kudu, springbok and impala were staples on my menus, as well as warthog and crocodile carpaccio, springbok tartare and a bountiful array of vegetable and seafood dishes. Freshly baked bread and house whipped butter were standard starters, offered alongside a selection of local wines to help set the stage for the deliciousness ahead. The Chef and culinary team would frequently visit our table throughout our stay to discuss how we enjoyed the food and inquire if we had any specific desires for the next meal.

‘We spent several hours tracking elephants, impala, hyenas and wild dogs, all the while Nik was pointing out every species of bird within a three-mile radius.”

The front of house team likewise was the epitome of hospitality. The service was formal and intentional, but warm and with plenty of personality, if you initiated conversation. We were always greeted by name and truly felt that every staff member was going out of their way to say hello, and ensure we felt like so much more than just another guest passing through their doors.

Despite the array of options we kept our first lunch light, opting for venison tataki, kingklip ceviche, cauliflower Badji and a Greek salad – all elegantly prepared and neatly woven together by a bottle of rose Cap Classique. After lunch we met Nik back at the lodge entrance where he introduced us to the other half of our dynamic driving duo, Jon. As an expert wildlife tracker, Jon knew this area like the back of his hand. He was a man of few words, but after one quick flash of his smile, you knew he had a heart warmer than the African sun. We mounted the Land Cruiser and hit the trails with Nik behind the wheel and Jon perched in a spotter seat elevated above the truck’s hood. They immediately locked-in to tracking mode and you could tell right away that they were an experienced team.

The Thornybush Private Nature Reserve, where Royal Malewane is located, isn’t a single park, but rather a fifteen-thousand-hectare area comprised of multiple landowners and lodges that runs adjacent to Greater Kruger National Park. The members of this consortium have together to pool their resources and land access, creating a concession that is guided by a conservation-first ethos and has a deep commitment to preserving their ecosystem that goes far beyond wildlife viewing. Their combined focus is to protect the native plants, animals and natural ecological process of the Lowveld bushveld and ensure its survival and protection from poachers and overdevelopment. The lodges within this concession have mutual access to the combined reserve land without fences or other impediments, which allows for longer game drives, which in turn renders more fruitful wildlife sightings and bush experiences as animals are free to traverse the landscape as they were meant to.

Historically, ‘fortress conservation’ was a popular method of controlling areas of land in this region. Private and hunting reserves would use fences and armed enforcement to police the land and control wildlife under the belief that humans and nature were unable to coexist. These days however, many landowners are joining forces and lobbying for the de-fortification of the Kruger to Canyon Biosphere Region, which spans over 2.5 million hectares from Kruger National Park in the East, to the Blyde River Canyon and the Drakensberg Mountain range in the West. Recognized as one of the top biosphere regions globally by UNESCO, concessions like Thornybush Nature Reserve are playing a significant role in the efforts to ensure that future growth in the region is balanced with continued ecological conservation, so that protected areas, private reserves and rural communities can continue to grow and thrive in harmony. While there is still a way to go, every year more land is being bought back with the explicit intent of conservation, meaning the fortress-fences of old are slowly being torn down across some of South Africa’s most iconic landscapes and ecosystems.

As we ventured away from the lodge, the bush thickened, the trails narrowed and I was on high alert for the buffalo herd we saw earlier. We spent several hours tracking elephants, impala, hyenas and wild dogs, all the while Nik was pointing out every species of bird within a three-mile radius. It was fascinating to watch Jon and Nik identify various wildlife tracks and listen to them converse in Tsonga as they discussed on the fly which direction to take, somehow differentiating one ubiquitous dirt road from the next.

The speed and accuracy at which Jon could spot tracks while mounted to the front of the truck like a clairvoyant hood ornament was astounding. However, my admiration was quickly overcome by adrenaline when he noticed something on the ground and signaled Nik to take an abrupt right. Continuing in Tsonga, they kept saying “nghala, nghala” to each other, pointing to tracks on the ground. An immediate silence fell over the rest of us as their voices lowered in volume but quickened in pace, the word “nghala” punctuating every sentence.

” We spent several hours tracking elephants, impala, hyenas and wild dogs, all the while Nik was pointing out every species of bird within a three-mile radius.”

We hustled down several switchback routes, seemingly losing the trail and picking it up again as we followed tracks that darted through the expansive bush. My heart was racing and my eyes were glued to the sides of the road, trying to catch a glimpse of something, anything, despite not knowing what we were looking for. As we turned the next corner we were met by two female lions and four male cubs, sprawled across the road like a bunch of holiday sunbathers, and it clicked—nghala was the Tsonga word for lion, and there they were before us in all their glory.

The lions had had a kill that morning, Nik said, and now they were enjoying an afternoon lounge-around while they digested. We managed to get remarkably close, almost uncomfortably so, but the lions were entirely unfazed as they looked up at us lazily with huge eyes and full bellies. We were ecstatic, as one might expect, but what I did not expect to see was how excited Nik and Jon were. The two of them grinning like kids on Christmas. I suppose witnessing such majestic creatures in the wild never gets old. As Nik backed up the Land Rover and we headed towards the lodge, he turned around to us and asked if he could radio the bar with our drink order so that our preferred beverages would be ready upon our return to the lobby. “I’ll have a brandy Old Fashioned,” I said. “Thanks Nik.”

Over the next few days, we zig-zagged the trails twice a day, mornings and afternoons, in search of all manner of wildlife. We saw herds of buffalo and wildebeests, small tortoises and massive hippos. We saw a crocodile that looked as it was cast in a shimmering bronze as well as multiple encounters with giraffes and elephants so close that they could have taken the hat off my head with their trunks. There were zebras, impala, and kudu en masse, lizards, vultures and my personal favorite, rhinoceros. Every drive was a new opportunity to experience Mother Nature in all her glory, and she was putting on a show.

On our last day, we awoke to find out that a weather system had come in overnight and the trails were too wet to drive, so we opted for a day lounging around the lodge. We indulged in a late breakfast before making our way to the in-house spa for some pampering in the open-air treatment rooms. Afterwards, we ventured to the main pool which overhung the waterside and provided a great lookout spot for any animals that happened to stop by the reservoir for respite and refreshments. A bit of residual drizzle from the heavens above didn’t deter us, as the water in the pool was warm and we floated, basking in the diffused late-morning light, watching monkeys dart along the tree branches. After an unnecessarily large and entirely self-inflicted lunch, we spent much of the afternoon in the library reading by the fire while I enjoyed a cigar.

When I looked up from my book to extinguish what was left of my Epicure No.2, I saw Nik approaching from the far side of the library. The weather was clearing and he asked if we wanted one last drive before we departed the following morning, so we jumped to our feet and scrambled to the villa to grab our safari gear. We met Nik and Jon by the Land Cruiser, loaded up for one last drive, and headed into the bush. We were graced with what seemed like a procession of large game, as if they had all come to bid us a final farewell, but the icing on the cake was a gorgeous female leopard, appropriately perched in a thorny bush just a few feet off the ground, relaxing in the cool breeze as the occasional raindrop continued to fall on the lush landscape around us.

“I couldn’t help but take a moment to appreciate where I was, consider the scale of my surroundings and acknowledge my own inconsequentiality”

As we headed back to the lodge, the sun began poking through the clouds as it set behind the Drakensberg Mountain range far off in the distance. I couldn’t help but take a moment to appreciate where I was, consider the scale of my surroundings and acknowledge my own inconsequentiality. Then, just as my thoughts were about to whisk me far away, Nik turned around and I snapped back to the present moment. He looked directly at me as if to ask a question, but we both already knew the answer.

“I’ll have the usual, thanks Nik.”