
2025 IS THE 250TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTH OF THE ENGLISH NOVELIST JANE AUSTEN. IF YOU WANT TO LIVE OUT YOUR PRIDE AND PREJUDICE FANTASIES – OR EVEN TRY TO FIND YOUR OWN MR. DARCY – THEN IT IS WELL WORTH PAYING A VISIT TO THE REGENCY SPA TOWN OF CHELTENHAM. JANE CAME TO CHELTENHAM WITH HER SISTER, CASSANDRA, IN THE SPRING OF 1816, AND IN ADDITION TO TAKING THE WATERS FOR HER HEALTH, NO DOUBT ENJOYED ALL THE LUXURIES AND SOCIAL EVENTS THAT THE TOWN HAD TO OFFER.
Looking at Visit Cheltenham’s events calendar today, this picturesque destination in the Cotswolds still has plenty to draw discerning guests. Cheltenham Racecourse welcomes 400,000 spectators a year and is busiest during Cheltenham Festival in March. More high-brow are the Cheltenham Literature Festival, Cheltenham Science Festival, and Cheltenham Jazz Festival: Jane would have had plenty to keep herself entertained, and even more to write about! But my favourite festival of the summer is the Cheltenham Food & Drink Festival in June. Dozens of artisanal producers descend on pretty Montpellier Gardens to showcase their goods, many of which are made in the villages surrounding the town. There are cheese masterclasses and guided wine tastings, cookery demonstrations and talks from celebrity chefs. These mouthwatering delights serve as a reminder why Cheltenham is one of the UK’s great culinary centres, at any time of the year.
If you are planning a gastronomic minibreak in Cheltenham, you are going to be spoilt for choice. From cocktail bars to delicatessens, family-run coffee shops to Michelin starred restaurants, the town is bursting at the seams.
To make the most of Cheltenham’s culinary scene, you will want to stay right in the center. Neptune Apartments occupies one of the grandest Georgian buildings on The Promenade, with high ceilings, beautifully restored original features, and dramatic chandeliers. The bold wall colors and opulent fabrics befit the home of one of Jane’s aristocratic characters, and if you do want to swish around in an empire line ball gown, you will have plenty of space to do so.
Neptune’s 12 apartments – all of which are individually styled – mix the 5-star luxury of the best British hotels with the space and comforts of a long stay apartment. In The Painswick, named like all the apartments after an idyllic Cotswold village, you can start the day slowly, making coffee and sitting at the breakfast bar. Meanwhile, at the other end of the day, there’s ample room to sit on a leather armchair talking with a friend into the small hours, sipping on glasses of Champagne. When you are ready to flop, the velvet upholstered bed beckons, its crisp white linens enveloping you as you slumber deeply.


If you only have one night in Cheltenham – though I recommend staying as long as you can – then you must prioritize the very best places to wine and dine. Start your mini tour at The Grape Escape Wine Bar & Merchant on Regent Street, just a few minutes’ walk away from The Promenade. Here, couple Ant and Zoe bring you a truly imaginative selection of wines from around the world, including from less well known wine producers in countries like Croatia, Slovenia, and Georgia. More than 20 wines are available by the glass or carafe at any one time, and the menu changes weekly. If you are stuck, however, and just cannot decide, then ask for the wine flight: five reds or five whites for a very good price of £16.50. If you are feeling particularly brave, you can even try these wines blind, testing your senses to see if you can correctly identify them.
It is no good drinking on an empty stomach, so provided that you won’t spoil your appetite, choose some of the Grape Escape’s snacks to accompany your wine. The pork scratchings are a British pub staple, but far tastier and more refined are the air dried duck breast, Black Down ham from The Somerset Charcuterie Company, and the selection of cheeses from The Cheeseworks along the street. Ant and Zoe have sought out the very best local producers – exactly the kind of businesses which exhibit at the Cheltenham Food & Drink Festival – and added them to their menu so you can try multiple delicious delicacies in one place.
Couple teams is a theme of this article, because the #1 restaurant in Cheltenham, Lumiere, is run by a husband and wife, Chef Patron Jon Howe and General Manager Helen Howe. Lumiere has received numerous accolades, including a Michelin star, and is quite rightly considered to be one of the best restaurants in Britain.

AT LUMIERE, THE QUALITY STARTS WITH THE INGREDIENTS.
To ensure that everything is as fresh and as local as possible, the Howes have established a 15-acre smallholding which serves as their kitchen garden. They have planted a wide range of native crops, from broad beans and garden peas to rhubarb, damsons, and sloes, and are employing a ‘no dig’ method to improve the soil health. Everything grown here is organic, and as they harvest by hand every day, it takes just a matter of hours for the produce to get from the soil to the restaurant’s tables.
On this journey, however, the ingredients go through an almost magical transformation in Jon’s kitchen. The set menus of four-, six-, or eight-courses, plus a vegetarian option, are continually changing depending on what is in season and what Jon fancies cooking. On the chilly winter’s day when we had lunch, the combination of duck and white chocolate was a revelation, but the real crowning achievement was the butter soft Cotswolds venison served with celeriac, morel mushrooms, and black truffle. Perhaps the biggest surprise, however, was the deconstructed tequila slammer palate cleanser with its salt glass, gel orbs filled with a hot-sour mouthful of lime juice, and mist rising in swirls from the wooden dish.
What draws together Neptune, The Great Escape, and Lumiere are attention to detail and absolutely top notch quality. If you take pleasure from the finer things in life and have the taste to distinguish the extraordinary from the merely excellent, then a short break in Cheltenham will deliver in every way.