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Swanky Day Trip!

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Day tripping and mentally tripping as you land on the world’s shortest commercial runway — Do people even say that anymore? Does not matter because facts are facts and minds will be blown. I have yet to see anyone land on this, the world’s shortest commercial runway (1,300 feet long – think aircraft carrier) and not gasp, smile, and almost kiss the ground when stepping off the perfectly sized WinAir aircraft that take you on that 12-minute journey from St. Maarten to Saba. The aircraft needs to meet certain specifications and the pilots need to be trained specifically for this runway. I can imagine the simulator they practiced on screaming, “Terrain! Terrain! Terrain!” for about the last 2 minutes of flight. Not only do you have a short runway (the shortest), surrounded on three sides by water, but as the descent begins, you glide right by the rock face of this mountain that is Saba.

Anyway, that’s getting there, or at least landing there. The next step is a quick jaunt through the one-man immigration office and out to your awaiting taxi. This is where another part of the adventure begins as you wind your way up the side of this dormant volcano that about 2,000 locals call home. The island’s singular road was dug by hand! Going uphill. That feat in and of itself is amazing. Driving up it is punctuated by beeps on the horn of your driver. Two beeps seem to mean, “Coming through.”  While three short bursts appear to be “Watch out, I can’t see you around this corner, and the fish-eye mirrors that are on the street to assist in navigating this steep road while making a hairpin turn aren’t what I am entrusting my car to, so I am beeping…” Some beep just to say hello and that appears to be a quick single tap. The island is so condensed. It’s like a pocket-sized candy bar. The Caribbean condensed.

The islanders speak Dutch and English and there’s a clear European flare throughout the dining experiences around the island. The hiking, diving, birding, and art are some of the most compelling reasons tourists visit, but coming to disconnect must be top of the list as well. Although spirited events and street parties do exist, the nature of this island invites visitors to unwind. There are no beaches to speak of. The one that appears from time to time does get some attention when it shows itself, but it’s not the reason folks flock to Saba. Folks come here to reconnect with nature, friends and family, or explore and take on their next adventure. We went for a day and took in as much as we could. Hiked a trail called Mas’Cohones to a spot where we could look down on the Bottom, the island’s capital, the largest of its four villages. We ate at a lovely local Bakery called Bizzy B, took in a museum that showcased the history of the island, grabbed lunch at Island Flavors, and blew a glass bead. We did this all in under 7 hours, before hopping back on the flight to St. Maarten!

The takeoff was far less adrenaline inducing than the landing for me. No close calls with the side of a mountain, just Caribbean Sea to avoid by pulling up quickly on the yoke. These pilots are professionals and 12 minutes later, we were back in St. Maarten. This is the kind of day trip we love. How swanky is it to have the luxury of living this island-hopping life? Another country visited, another passport stamp, a quick cultural exchange, delicious international fare, some outdoor fun, and venetian glass bead making. Packing it in without stressing out! We highly recommend taking a day to check out Saba. Their villa scene is also pretty swanky, so maybe you turn it into a Swellegant Stay and kick back on the island for a little longer.

www.sabatourism.com/hiking

Gastronomic Gallivants: Monteverde, Costa Rica

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Hotel Belmar in Costa Rica is redefining what it means to create a local experience for guests through its new menu and sustainability initiatives in 2024. The award-winning, carbon-neutral hotel’s dining including Restaurante Celajes, Cervecería Belmar, and its Juice Bar and Tea Room take a hyper local approach to sourcing ingredients, prioritizing sustainable practices. Under the creative guidance of Chef Alvaro Rodríguez, the hotel’s new menu iterations highlight organic produce and ingredients sourced from the hotel’s expanded organic garden, the carbon-neutral farm Finca Madre Tierra, and local foraging.

The new menu was intentionally designed to lower the hotel’s carbon footprint, with a plant-based approach to its dishes. The kitchen has cut its meat and dairy use by 20%, reducing beef to just one dish on the menu. In contrast, the quantity of plant-based ingredients and sustainable seafood has increased, ensuring that every dish not only delights the palate but also supports environmental sustainability. The new dishes have been enthusiastically embraced by guests. A great example is the Tamarind Chickpea Tempeh, a plant based marvel that combines vegetable protein with a fusion of bold flavors. The Gulf of Nicoya, visible from Hotel Belmar on a clear day, is now the source of an expanded selection of seafood, including clams, mussels, and fresh daily catches that come from the responsible fishing zone in Costa de Pájaros.

“It’s vital to put sustainability first in our kitchen and dining room,” said Chef Alvaro Rodriguez, Hotel Belmar’s creative chef. “Travelers come to experience all of Costa Rica, and that means serving up the region’s bounty and flavors in every dish we prepare.”

Hotel Belmar also vetted local suppliers for their sustainability practices and principles to ensure that they are sourcing the most environmentally and ethically responsible products. The food itself integrates haute cuisine techniques with traditional methods like pickling and fermenting to infuse each dish with rich flavors and wellness benefits. These age-old preservation techniques not only enhance taste but also help the hotel reduce food waste by making the most of seasonal ingredients all year long, thereby lessening environmental impact from transporting goods over long distances.

The hotel’s kitchens prioritize sustainability by repurposing cooking byproducts that are typically discarded. Through innovative methods like dehydration, powdering, and fermentation, Hotel Belmar transforms these leftovers into exquisite delicacies. This not only minimizes waste, but also adds depth and complexity to the restaurants’ dishes, underscoring a dedication to creativity and sustainability. Homemade vinegars, crafted from celery, heirloom bananas, and bougainvillea, exemplify the commitment to innovation and flavor enhancement. Hotel Belmar’s vibrant gastronomy extends a compelling invitation to redefine the intricate bond between hospitality and food.

Sustainable practice doesn’t end at the table. Developed by New York City-based consultant Chris Bidmead from Bar Methods, the new cocktails at Hotel Belmar are based on local ingredients and the concept of “garden to glass.” Examples include the “Tropical Old Fashioned” with banana-infused whiskey crafted from the fruits of Finca Madre Tierra and the “Vera Collins” made with bougainvillea flowers picked from the garden just outside of the bar. These cocktails reflect the hotel’s commitment to Earth-friendly practices and maximum utilization of local products. In collaboration with the Master Brewer at Cervecería Belmar, the hotel has developed fermented beverages such as Hard Kombucha and Hibiscus Mead using 100% local ingredients such as honey, seasonal fruits, and herbs. These unique beverages enhance the sustainability of the on-site brewery and offer a unique experience to guests.

A Little Bit More About The Hotel

Hotel Belmar is an independent, family-owned luxury eco-lodge situated in Costa Rica’s renowned Monteverde cloud forest highlands. Its spirited hospitality has pioneered a model of regenerative tourism that enriches travelers with immersive experiences, fostering connections to nature, mindful serenity, and holistic wellness. Championing best practices in sustainability, Hotel Belmar stands as Central America’s premier destination for enriching and authentic experiences. Its farm-to-table gastronomy, thematic forest immersions, garden-surrounded yoga, cultural programs, carbon-neutral farm, and onsite craft brewery bridge guests to the tranquil essence of Monteverde’s natural wonders. For more information,

www.hotelbelmar.net

Spa Uncommon – Linthwaite House, Cumbria

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Do you ever have one of those weeks where however wonderful your family is, however rewarding your job, you just want to run away for a while and hide! Sometimes a last-minute escape is exactly what you need to refresh yourself, reboot, and be ready to again face the world. And whether your recovery involves just you, or you and a similarly world-weary girlfriend, a suitably swanky spa hotel is just what the doctor ordered.

This is why I found myself breaking free from my family and checking in to the haven which is Linthwaite House. Its location in Windermere in the English Lake District, surrounded by 14 acres of gardens, with woodlands beyond, and looking down to a lake, is utterly idyllic. Just looking at those views, I started to feel more relaxed already, the cool, clean air of the national park a balm for both my body and soul.

Unusually, Linthwaite House is a spa hotel where the spa treatments come to you. There are hot tubs in guest rooms, so if you wish, you can start indulging yourself before even having your first coffee of the day. In my case, I threw open the windows to let the fresh air in, and the sunlight flooded with it. The early summer is an unbeatable time to be in the Lake District: I’ve come every June for a decade, and it has become one of my very favorite places in the world.

All the spa treatments at  Linthwaite House are by Penny Irvine Massage Therapy. If you aren’t familiar with the name, that is because Penny Irvine is uber local: she is based in the local town of Kendal (famous for the annual Kendal Mountain Festival) and specializes in full body and deep tissue massage. There are options for no hands massage and facials, too.

Hunched over a laptop for much of my life, and squashed awkwardly into an airline seat for even more, I often feel as if my body is contracting. My joints tend to be stiff rather than particularly painful, but I have lost the free flowing movement of my teens and twenties and too often feel, well, tense. With my mind at rest, and having had a peaceful night’s sleep, I hoped that Penny would be able to loosen some of my muscles, especially in my back and shoulders. If she could work out the knots and help me relax, I would, almost literally, become putty in her hands.

One of the challenges with a really great massage is staying awake long enough to enjoy it. When a massage therapist puts you completely at your ease, when the music and fragrances are intended to soothe, your body and mind feel safe: you are cared for. It’s no wonder, then, that your natural tendency may be to drift into a dreamless sleep. And I did. Those minutes of sleep were golden. 

I am a passionate believer that wellness is a whole body experience. It is about what you eat and drink as well as how you exercise, take time out, and allow your mind to decompress. Fortunately, at Linthwaite House, they have the culinary aspects of health and happiness well covered.

Dining is a critical component of any stay at Linthwaite House. Award-winning restaurateur and chef Simon Rogan has had his Henrock restaurant at the hotel since 2019, offering a frequently changing menu which champions seasonal, local produce. Many of the ingredients are produced on Rogan’s own regenerative farm in the nearby Cartmel Valley, which guests at Linthwaite are encouraged to visit. Rogan’s London restaurant, Aulis, has a cult following and serious foodies will make table reservations to eat there months in advance. But if you book a stay at Linthwaite then you can have a taste of Rogan’s gastronomic mastery at Henrock without the wait.

Henrock isn’t Linthwaite House’s only culinary draw, though. You will want to stay at the hotel long enough so that you can treat yourself to a meal in The Bar & Conservatory, too. The atmosphere here is a little more laid back, but Head Chef Gerald van der Walt is still a master artist in the kitchen and every dish is carefully curated from tasty local ingredients. On a fine day when the sun is shining, request a table outdoors on the terrace, a glorious spot to unwind. Ask the resident mixologist to craft you a cocktail (or two) and have a few bar snacks whilst you browse the menu and decide. The lobster roll on the all day menu is out of this world, in case my recommendation sways your choices; but I am sure that whatever tempts you will be delicious, and on a break such as this, the ability to make spur of the moment decisions on a whim is part of the fun!

www.leeucollection.com/UK/linthwaite-house

A Letter From… Europe: Bucharest, Romania

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Hi there!

In the last couple of years, I have been steadily working my way between Europe’s smaller, or less popular, capital cities. We all know about the romance of Paris and the historic architecture of Rome, but although I adore them too, I have always been someone who roots for the underdog. The lack of crowds, affordability, and likelihood that what you find in such places will exceed your expectations makes lesser visited capitals ideal destinations for a long weekend.

I had very little idea what to expect in Bucharest. I suppose, if anything, I would have put it in a bracket with nearby Skopje, Sofia, and Zagreb, but that was just a guess. Even now, having been, I struggle to think of a city which is comparable.

What caught me by surprise was the scale of the city and its buildings. The Romanian capital is the eighth largest city in Europe, and with 2.7 million people living in the Bucharest metropolitan area, it is considerably larger than the likes of Barcelona, Milan, and Amsterdam. I checked in at the imposing JW Marriott, which has more than 400 rooms; and from the executive lounge you can see the gargantuan People’s Salvation Cathedral which is under construction across the street. Once complete, it will be the patriarchal cathedral of the Romanian Orthodox Church and will have the biggest collection of church mosaics in the world.

“Bigger is better” seems to have been the motto of many of Bucharest’s architects. In the 1980s when Communist dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu ruled Romania, he ordered the construction of a new Palace of the Parliament, which still dominates the city center today. It is quite possibly the heaviest building in the world, and in addition to what you can see, there are eight subterranean levels, including a nuclear bunker. The best way to see the over-the-top marble interiors and learn about its construction is on a guided tour, where you will get a sense of both Ceaușescu’s megalomania and the importance which Romanians attach to their democracy and EU membership today.

The vast concrete and marble edifices of the Communist parts of the city undoubtedly represent an important part of Bucharest’s recent history, but I did find them somewhat intimidating. Far more pleasurable was the lively atmosphere in the Old Town, where cafes and bars spill out onto the street; and the laid-back feel of the many well-kept parks.

King Michael I Park, on the northern side of the city, covers 187 ha and centers on Lake Herastrau. It is filled with paths, sculptures, and cafes, as well as trees and flowers, and at weekends in particular, families come here to chill. As a tourist, the most interesting area of the park is the Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum, where traditional wooden houses from across Romania have been collected and reconstructed. Not only can you see the huge variety of vernacular architectural styles, but you can appreciate something of what rural life must have been like a century or more ago.

Overlooking the lake in King Michael I Park is Restaurant Pescăruș (meaning “Seagull”), which has been feeding Bucharest ever since the 1930s. The location certainly contributes to its popularity, but the gorgeous interior with its white, gull-like birds suspended from the ceiling, and the excellent service, also help earn its 5-star rating. Romanian cuisine is rarely celebrated abroad, but it deserves to be. At Pescăruș, order fresh fish and seafood; but visit a Bavarian-style beer hall such as Hanu’ Berarilor Uranus for locally-brewed cask beers and hearty Romanian dishes such as glazed pork cheek, chicken livers, or meatballs with polenta.

If I can point you in the direction of just one restaurant in Bucharest, however, let it be Kaiamo. This is an extraordinary fine dining restaurant where Chef Radu is fusing Romanian and Japanese cuisines. The menu changes nightly depending on what is in season, and if you are planning to treat yourself to the incredible 20-course tasting menus (with optional wine or cocktail pairings), you had better reserve an early table as the whole experience takes 3-4 hours to enjoy. I committed to the rather shorter 9-course menu, accompanied by some excellent Romanian wines chosen for me by the sommelier. The French restaurant guide Gault et Millau has awarded Kaiamo three toques (equivalent to a Michelin star), and I am 100% in agreement that the restaurant deserves its place on the World’s 50 Best Discovery list.

My time in Bucharest was all too short, but I have a suspicion that I will be back. There’s so much more to see and do, and I want a repeat visit to Kaiamo to eat my way through all those 20 courses!

Swellegant Stays: NH Collection Helsinki Grand Hansa – Helsinki, Finland

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NH Collection Helsinki Grand Hansa

Helsinki, Finland

It is always fun to be the first one through the door of a brand new hotel, and as the NH Collection Helsinki Grand Hansa opened only in May 2024, all of the hotel’s guests this summer will feel like pioneers. Grand Hansa is the latest 5-star hotel in Finland’s attractive, design-oriented capital. It brings together two of the city’s historic properties, the Kaleva building and New Student House, and complements them with a thoughtful modern extension.

The new hotel has 224 well equipped guest rooms and suites, which remind us why Scandinavian design is always in vogue. Accents of blue and gold stand out strikingly from the more muted gray tones of the walls, and the variety of textures in the furniture and furnishings has clearly been carefully thought through. The mattresses are firm, the white linens thick and stiff, and the tall windows are dressed with long curtains which hang just so. There is a fair amount of sparkle in the dark marble bathrooms, which give them a luxurious Art Deco feel.

The iconic dome which tops the hotel’s roof and is visible from the street crowns one of the many versatile meeting rooms. Across the property, including in the fabulous ballroom, the hotel’s architects and interior designers have worked hard to keep the building’s original features such as the interior balconies, glittering chandeliers, and decorative plasterwork.

There are plenty of more contemporary public spaces at Grand Hansa, too. The rejuvenating spa is a serene oasis, a spot to recoup your energy after a stressful working week. Completely revived, you will then have the energy to make the most of the hotel’s rooftop bar with its 360-degree view of Helsinki, which is a photogenic city in any weather. Toast your Finnish adventure with a cocktail or glass of Champagne, and once it is time for dinner, descend to the Hansa Café Bar & Brasserie, a culinary hotspot which has been welcoming discerning diners for a century.

www.nh-hotels.com

www.myhelsinki.fi

 

A Letter From… Europe: Tbilisi, Georgia

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Gamarjoba!

Welcome to the most vibrant, exciting capital in Europe. No, it’s not Berlin or Madrid: I am in Tbilisi in the cultural melting pot that is Georgia.

It is hard to wrap your head around how old Tbilisi is. Archaeologists have found evidence that this area was inhabited in Paleolithic times, and by the late Bronze Age, it was already the largest settlement in the Caucasus. Alexander the Great invaded, the Georgians went to war with the Ancient Romans, and by the mid-4th century, Christianity had been adopted as the state religion. You can still bathe in the same hot springs that King Vakhtang discovered on a hunting trip more than 1,500 years ago, and walk along streets that show the architectural influence of centuries of not only invasions but also equitable cultural exchange with countries across Europe and Asia. The sense of history in this place is inescapable and wonderful.

What I really love about Tbilisi, however, is the energetic multiculturalism of contemporary life here. In the old town, churches, a mosque, and a synagogue neighbor one another. You hear a constant babble of different languages on the streets. In spite of the ghosts of the past, Tbilisi feels very young, with a creative, entrepreneurial population. The skyline is constantly changing, as are the bars and restaurants, galleries, and boutiques. I always make a point of visiting the Center of Contemporary Art or the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) for inspiration but also to feel intellectually and creatively challenged. There is always something new, something thought-provoking to see and experience.

One of my most recent discoveries is Republic, a multipurpose entertainment and hospitality complex built on what had been a Soviet-era parade ground in the center of Tbilisi. The square was famous for a concrete monument nicknamed “Andropov’s Ears”: Yuri Andropov was the leader of the USSR in the early 1980s. Today, Republic hosts concerts most weekends, plus fashion shows and concerts. Europe’s top DJs and other electronic music artists get the dance floor pulsing at the Noble Savage nightclub, where the partying starts from 11pm. This is one of the best spots to experience the wild party culture that Tbilisi has built an international reputation for.

And then there’s the food. Georgia has one of the world’s great cuisines, but for reasons I’ve never been able to fathom, it is far less well-known than, say, Italian or Turkish food. Perhaps the Georgians are just too busy enjoying eating and drinking to bother marketing their gastronomy abroad. At Republic, there is a choice of places to eat, but my first point of call – whatever the time of day or night – would always be Republic 24, which serves modern Georgian dining from an open kitchen. Don’t miss the Adjarian khachapuri, Georgia’s iconic cheese-stuffed bread; or the board of assorted pkhali, colorful vegan pates made from spinach, red bell pepper, or eggplant, held together with walnut paste and decorated with pomegranate seeds. It is blissful comfort food, and as Republic 24 stays open round the clock at weekends, you can drop in whatever hour you finish clubbing.

On this trip to Tbilisi I am staying at the Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel, which with its glittering glass facade has become a landmark of the city center. The guest rooms here look across the rooftops to the Caucasus Mountains, or down to the Mtkvari River which winds its way through the city. It wasn’t cold last night, so I ventured out onto the Iveria Terrace to watch the flickering of the city lights and the equally sparkly stars above. In summer, there’s a restaurant here, but in the colder months it’s better to dine indoors at the appropriately named Umami, or at Filini, the hotel’s Italian restaurant.

One of the benefits of staying at the Radisson Blu is its Anne Semonin spa, a haven of peace and the ideal place to recover after a night on the dance floor. The infinity pool overlooks the city, and I felt completely rejuvenated after an hour in the Finnish sauna and aroma steam room, the essential oils softening my skin.

I’m raring to head back out and continue exploring now, so I will bid you adieu,

www.bit.ly/radisson-iveria

Swellegant Stays: ROOMS, Tbilisi – Tbilisi, Georgia

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ROOMS, Tbilisi

Tbilisi, Georgia

There is no doubt that Tbilisi is one of Europe’s coolest cities, but what is less well known is that Georgia’s capital is also blessed with some of the continent’s swankiest Design Hotels. And the hotel which capture’s Tbilisi’s laid-back-yet-funky vibe better than any other is ROOMS. In the past few years, ROOMS has established itself not only as a cultural landmark but also the place to be seen.

The architects who took on this former Soviet publishing house in Tbilisi’s Vera District had their work cut out for them. The building was industrial-looking and mostly derelict, and it is hard to imagine how they saw such potential in it. But imagination and plucky determination, combined with serious financial investment, go a long way in a place like Georgia, and the transformation is nothing short of remarkable. ROOMS’ guests fall in love with the building’s fusion of the past and present, function and aesthetics, and the array of different construction materials. Many of the components, from floor tiles to light fittings, have been upcycled, and some of the ornaments are tongue-in-cheek: a bust of Joseph Stalin has been snuck surreptitiously into a line up of Snow White’s seven dwarves.

Much as I was enticed by the prospect of being an Urban Queen, ROOMS’ best places to stay are the Garden View and Terrace Suites. All the rooms have a strong retro feel, but this is complemented with plenty of natural light and modern technology like Marshall speakers and powerful rain showers. I was quite tempted to copy the bold printed wallpaper and medieval-style chandelier combo at home, but am unsure how this over-the-top playfulness would translate in a London apartment!

As in everywhere else in Georgia, ROOMS takes eating and drinking very seriously. In fine weather nothing beats the Garden Bar, which is outdoors but feels as if you’re sitting in a greenhouse. There’s no excuse for skipping Georgia’s famous wines, but save space for one of ROOMS’ signature cocktails, too, and then move on through to The Kitchen where Danish restaurateur Frederik Bille Brahe has curated a menu mixing Nordic, American, and Georgian flavors in unforgettable combinations.  

www.roomshotels.com

Swellegant Stays: Sheraton Zagreb Hotel – Zagreb, Croatia

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Sheraton Zagreb Hotel

Zagreb, Croatia

How should you build a new hotel in an historic city? The designers of Sheraton Zagreb Hotel knew that they would struggle to compete with the Croatian capital’s millennia of impressive architecture, so took an innovative approach: they clad their building in glass so that it would mirror the city around it. What you see on the external walls are ever changing reflections of Zagreb, past and present, a marvelous visual effect. By blending in, the hotel has become a landmark in its own right.

Although Croatia’s most famous tourist hotspots, Dubrovnik and Split, are on the coast, there are plenty of reasons to spend a long weekend in the capital. Sheraton Zagreb Hotel is in the downtown area, within easy reach of attractions like St Mark’s Church, one of the oldest monuments in Zagreb; Art Pavilion, and Ban Jelacic Square. If you are coming in winter, the hotel is also well located for Zagreb’s famous Christmas Market.

Guests at the Sheraton Zagreb Hotel are a good mix of business and leisure visitors, many of whom bring their families and pets with them as there is such a laid back atmosphere at the property. Whether you opt for a standard double room or the vast Presidential Suite, you will find there is plenty of space and all the amenities you need for a comfortable stay. And you can certainly easily combine business and pleasure: the hotel has an indoor heated pool and luxurious spa, both of which tend to be quiet.

When it comes to dining, book a table at Tomassino Restaurant. On the face of it, this is an Italian restaurant, but there is a strong and proud influence of Croatian cuisine, too. Have a cocktail in the &More bar before you eat, and then offer yourself up to the chefs. They will indulge you with gastronomic delights such as octopus ragu with polenta, followed by crème brûlée infused with lavender.

Sheraton Zagreb Hotel

Swellegant Stays: art’otel, Amsterdam, Netherlands

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art’otel, Amsterdam

Amsterdam, Netherlands

Life equals art at Amsterdam’s swankiest hotel. Signature artist Atelier van Lieshout, one of the biggest and most prolific names in the Dutch art world, has waved his magic wand across the appropriately named art’otel, filling every space with more than 120 of his sculptures and curating an inspiring calendar of ever-changing exhibitions and cultural events. The hotel also has a partnership with the STRAAT Museum, Amsterdam’s impressive gallery of street art and graffiti, which is a short ferry ride away.

art’otel occupies an enviable location, overlooking a canal and Amsterdam Centraal Station. It is a grand historic building, but the traditional architecture belies the funky interior. In fact, stepping into the lobby, your first impression may well be that this is a contemporary art gallery or a very fashionable club, and the stylishly-dressed clientele only adds to that ambiance. The quality of the people-watching is second to none.

In this busy city, art’otel’s 107 bedrooms are simple sanctuaries, calm and well-equipped with Egyptian cotton linens, mood lighting, and Marshall Bluetooth speakers for a high-quality soundtrack to your stay. There are Atelier van Lieshout artworks on the walls here, too, so you will have something meaningful to gaze and reflect upon even as you lie in bed.

There are uncountable places to dine in Amsterdam, but one of the best restaurants is within art’otel. Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa combines the flavors of his native Portugal with a fusion of Asian cuisines at ARCA Restaurant. The mid-week four-course menu offers particularly good value at €47 per person, with dishes such as Robalo (seabass, cauliflower, roasted mushroom, and fricassé sauce) and Lombinho de porco iberico. The accompanying wine list is superb and the young, enthusiastic sommelier has a sharp nose and palate, so he can recommend some imaginative, thoughtful wine pairings.

For a nightcap, pop into the ARCA Bar, where the cocktail list mirrors the restaurant’s Portuguese-Asian influences. It’s one of Amsterdam’s coolest watering holes as celebrities and art lovers alike brush shoulders in the art’otel Gallery and then move on here for a drink.

www.artotelamsterdam.com

The Birthplace Of Wine

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The country of Georgia is building its brand as the birthplace of wine. Those in the know also rave about Georgian cuisine, including delicious khinkali (steamed dumplings) and khachapuri, a loaf of bread stuffed with melted cheese and which is altogether superior to pizza. What surprised and delighted me, however, was the breathtaking scenery of the Caucasus Mountains, a destination offering everything from ancient churches to lively music festivals.

Georgia’s Mtskheta-Mtianeti region lies close to the capital, Tbilisi, and it is an all-season tourist magnet. The historic town of Mtskheta is known by Georgians as Little Jerusalem; it’s the country’s former capital and holiest site, as it was here at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi Rivers that Christianity was proclaimed as the official religion of Georgia in 337 AD. Yes, you read that right: Georgia was one of the first countries in the world to adopt Christianity, almost 1,700 years ago. Together, Mtskheta’s Jvari Monastery and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Historical Monuments of Mtskheta; and the town is the headquarters of the Georgian Orthodox and Apostolic Church. The ancient monuments testify to the region’s high culture; its sophisticated arts of stone masonry, pottery, as well as metal casting and processing; and the social, political, and economic evolution of this mountain kingdom which has supported artisans for some four millennia.

From Little Jerusalem to Little Switzerland, the equally affectionate moniker given to the mountain resort of Gudauri, it is just a little over an hour’s drive. The city’s buzz subsides as the car climbs, and it is replaced with mountain tranquillity and a bit of molkhena, a useful Georgian word which translates as “the act of having fun”. It’s a term I’ll use a lot in the days to come. The air feels crisp and there are eagles flying above your head. For much of the year you are greeted with the sight of sparkling snow, as the altitude of the peaks is relatively high, though in mid-summer the white powder is replaced by verdant green.

Gudauri is young as mountain resorts go, but it is well located for year-round travel: you can horse ride and raft on the Aragei River, hike or take an off-road jeep tour to remote landmarks like the Georgetown Trinity Church above the village of Stepantsminda. There’s plenty of wildlife here, birds and mammals alike, so carrying a pair of binoculars is advised.

I arrived in Gudauri on the cusp of winter and spring. There was still plenty of snow for skiing and snowboarding, but already residents and tourists alike wanted to be outdoors in the bright sunshine, welcoming the coming of longer days. Many of us had come for Winter Jazz, rightly described as “Georgia’s hottest party in fresh air”. It is an annual event organised by Eastern Promotions, the Mountains Tracks Agency,  and the Georgian National Tourism Administration. Tbilisi is regularly cited as one of Europe’s top party capitals, and the festival draws big name artists and their fans out into this mountain paradise. The 2024 programme kicked off with Tbilisi native Soulidan, a name which means “from the soul”. It is an intense state of being, and when the music started it was impossible not to dance ‘soulidan’ as soon as I heard the beat.

There are plenty of hotels now in Gudauri, but I wanted to stay in the heart of the action, at the Alpina Hotel. The mountains are visible from every window, as well as from the huge outdoor terrace, and the peaks do look rather like the Alps. Alpina is busiest in winter as it is close to Gudauri’s main chair lift, but later in the season it’s a relaxing spot to retreat to for a long weekend. There’s a laid back atmosphere and children are welcome, and with plenty of well designed public spaces there are lots of opportunities to get chatting with other well traveled and engaging guests. Gudauri seems to attract those kinds of people.

What you realize quickly when you come to Georgia, and the Mtskheta-Mtianeti region in particular, is that everything in this culture is about food. I thought I was coming to Gudauri for jazz, but really it was an elaborate decoy: the real focus of this and every other Georgian event, it seems, was eating and drinking. The festival opens its arms to visitors, serving hyper local produce and also pop ups introducing other region’s speciality cuisines. I indulged in a modern twist on a Georgian classic: vegetarian lobio beans, in this instance filling a sandwich made by the small, independently owned Andamagi. It’s typical of the cuisine of Racha, a highland area in western Georgia, as I learnt whilst sipping wine from the family-run Jobava Winery in Kakheti.

Every Georgian I’ve met, in Georgia or abroad, has prided themselves on their warm hospitality: they see it as the anchor of their national identity. As a guest, especially one who might be hungry, you are enthusiastically welcomed into conversations, as if you were family or an old friend. As each stall holder prepared my food, they carefully wrapped it in stories from their region. It’s a beguiling approach and one which made me want to visit every village, every stream, every vineyard that they described.

Even once my stomach was full, my eyes kept wandering towards a khinkali stall, where two young men were preparing these popular snacks from scratch. Everyone could see the process before they ate them hot. I was told that the very best khinkali are made in Pasanauri, a small town on the Georgian Military Road, and I knew then that I would have to make a gastronomic pilgrimage to taste them for myself. The following morning, I did just that, sinking my teeth into the juiciest khinkali at Chabarukhi Restaurant on the way back to Mtskheta. Learning of my newfound obsession with their khinkali, the ladies in the kitchen invited me to make some of my own.

With the dough between my fingers, I was finally able to grasp Georgians’ philosophy behind everything that they do. “There is wisdom in everything,” said my tour guide, Kartlos Chabashvilli of Inter Georgia Travel. “We even believe the way you treat wine during the winemaking process is how the wine will then treat you.” Keeping this in mind, I shaped my khinkali more carefully and focused on positive thoughts, just to be on the safe side.

Georgia stays with you, long after you depart. The conventional picture of wine, khinkali, and mountains is true, but it is a gateway into understanding and appreciating the country’s more diverse, united and strong soul. I’ve learned that there is no such thing as a goodbye in Georgia. Instead, there is nakhvamdis, or “until we see each other again”. It captures a very Georgian essence, of hope and warm affection. Nakhvamdis, Georgia!

www.georgia.travel

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