The World Is Yours

Some places you visit. Others, you inhabit — living, breathing, and soaking in every bespoke detail. Around the world, the smartest travelers are trading hotel lobbies for private driveways, concierge desks for butlers who know their martini order, and crowded pools for infinity edges that belong entirely to them. This is the new gold standard: villas, chalets, and charters where privacy, design, and togetherness reign.

I’ve been lucky enough to slip behind the gates — or in some cases, set sail — at a few of the world’s most exclusive escapes. Here’s my passport to five stays you’ll never want to check out of.

Cabane Tortin

VERBIER, SWISS ALPS

Perched above the ancient Tortin Glacier, Cabane Tortin is a snow-dusted dream at 9,500 feet. Mornings start with coffee on the balcony, the peaks blushing pink in the first light, before carving untouched powder with your private ski guide. Afternoons dissolve into raclette by the fire, evenings into laughter under an Alpine sky so clear it feels infinite. With a private chef and discreet staff, this is mountain living without compromise.

Hale ‘O Ka La

– BIG ISLAND, HAWAII

Rising from the coastline like a phoenix after the 2023 fires, Hale ‘O Ka La is 5,358 square feet of reimagined tropical splendor inside the Mauna Kea Resort. Five lavish bedrooms, a saltwater pool with a waterslide and swim-up bar, and a waterfall grotto make it feel like your own resort — minus the strangers. Private chefs, full-service staff, and seamless access to resort amenities are just a phone call away.

Delfin I

AMAZON, PERU

A floating villa on the world’s greatest river, Delfin I offers just four oversized suites, each with a private panoramic terrace — two with whirlpools. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the rainforest, while solar panels hum quietly overhead, powering your sustainable adventure. Days are spent spotting pink dolphins, nights stargazing from the open deck with a pisco sour in hand. It’s Amazonian elegance at its most intimate.

Casa Bellamar

EAST CAPE, LOS CABOS, MEXICO

Solar-powered and oceanfront, Casa Bellamar’s eight bedrooms and four guest casitas stretch across two acres and 400 feet of pristine shoreline. There’s a beachfront pool, a private tennis court, and butler-and-chef service to match the view. Come for a family reunion or take over the property for a barefoot, toes-in-the-sand wedding for 100 — the beauty salon in the master suite has “bridal glam” written all over it.

Laughing Waters

BARBADOS

Set on four manicured acres just steps from Sandy Lane Beach, Laughing Waters is Barbados’ most coveted private estate — and its largest, at 32,000 square feet. With 12 bedrooms, membership to a private beach club, and access to a AAA Five Diamond resort’s golf courses, dining, and spa, it’s a one-stop fantasy for 24 lucky guests.

With design features by renowned local architect Larry Warren and interiors by London’s Emma Pearson, it’s Oliver Messel–inspired Caribbean glamour at its absolute peak.

Gastronomic Gallivants: Where Luxury Meets the Fells

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In a quiet corner of the Lake District, a short turn off the road from Windermere, lies a hotel that has quietly redefined Cumbrian hospitality. The Gilpin Hotel and Lake House spans 21 acres of lush, landscaped grounds, where alpacas graze and spa lodges peer through trees to distant fells. For years, it’s been a magnet for discerning travellers seeking modern luxury without fuss — where fine food, fresh air and warmth of service take precedence over formality.

The hotel is divided between the main Gilpin Hotel and the more secluded Gilpin Lake House, offering a range of rooms, suites, and cedar-clad spa lodges that encourage deep rest and even deeper baths. From the moment you arrive, the tone is set: polished but playful, indulgent but grounded. The Gilpin’s unofficial slogan, #LOVEANDLAUGHTER, isn’t marketing fluff — it’s a fair reflection of the atmosphere here. Luxury, yes, but without the pomposity, which is reflective of the true nature of the local area, humble but proud of its surroundings much like the Gilpin.

At the heart of Gilpin’s appeal is SOURCE, the destination restaurant that has held a Michelin Star since 2018. Executive Chef Ollie Bridgwater — formerly of The Fat Duck — brings a bold yet elegant style to his tasting menus, shaped by a deep commitment to seasonality and sustainability. Much of the produce is sourced from within sight of the kitchen; some is even grown on-site. Diners can opt for the shorter ORIGIN menu or the full SOURCE experience — a longer, more elaborate gastronomic journey that, at 15 courses, never feels overwrought. Highlights from a recent visit included a velvety chicken liver parfait balanced by ajo blanco and tart blackberry, presented on a delicate biscuit sablé. A pristine Ikejime trout followed, served cool and clean, tasting like a spring-fed stream.

“For years, it’s been a magnet for discerning travelers seeking modern luxury without fuss — where fine food, fresh air and warmth of service take precedence over formality.”

Later, glazed veal sweetbread arrived rich and golden, matched with warm gribiche, gnocchi and a slick of roast bone sauce — deeply savoury, but never heavy. There was also breast of royal quail with black garlic and maitake, a study in texture and restraint. Desserts, too, showed restraint without losing impact: Manjari chocolate with Pedro Ximénez, hazelnut and a single drunken cherry brought the menu to a quietly indulgent close. The wine pairings were a triumph in themselves. The sommelier moved deftly between the familiar and the unexpected — an English sparkling, a Lebanese red, a waxy Greek assyrtiko — always with a relaxed manner and a sharp palate. For those not drinking, a mocktail of rosemary, elderflower and star anise proved both sophisticated and refreshing.

Labelled pan-Asian, it’s better described as a live culinary performance, with chefs representing their own heritages in dishes that span India, Japan, Thailand and the Philippines. The open kitchen adds theatre, and the menu rewards curiosity. A starter of Thai-spiced sausage — made locally — delivered both comfort and kick. The tandoori seabass came cloaked in fermented chilli and paired with pickled shallots; the balance of smoke and acid was spot on. A surprisingly delicate riff on aloo made with purple potatoes and nigella added depth and variety. As for dessert: the signature spit-roast pineapple with lime sorbet and spiced rum is every bit as good as they say — tangy, boozy and deeply nostalgic.

“A single meal at SOURCE barely scratches the surface. The hotel’s second restaurant, Gilpin Spice, is a vivid contrast — a riot of colour, aroma and global flair.”

Both restaurants offer expansive drinks lists. Begin your evening with a Gilpin Gin martini on the terrace — made with Lakes Gin from nearby Bassenthwaite — and let dusk fall over the garden. It’s a perfect prelude to what lies ahead.

What sets the Gilpin apart isn’t just its food or setting, but the ease with which one slips into its rhythm. There are no stressful check-ins, no dress codes, no forced formality. Rooms come with cedar hot tubs or private spa facilities, and even the most luxurious of them feel like a retreat rather than a showroom. You might return from a fell walk to find your fire lit for you, or wake to a tray of fresh coffee and warm pastries delivered just before sunrise. Should you wish to stretch your legs, the Beatrix Potter Walk — a 13-mile loop from the hotel to Hill Top, her former home near Sawrey — is one of the more scenic circuits in the Lakes. It’s a satisfying day out, with enough elevation and charm to justify a return to SOURCE or Gilpin Spice in the evening, appetite intact.

Breakfast, too, is far from a formality. Whether taken in the restaurant or delivered to your lodge, it is always cooked to order — and taken seriously. Grilled kippers, soft-yolked eggs, delicate mushrooms and seeded sourdough were all executed with the same care as the evening service. At Gilpin, food is never filler.

Whether you come for the food, the fells, or the firelit spa lodges, Gilpin offers a deeply rooted, quietly luxurious take on modern hospitality. It’s a place where indulgence doesn’t shout, where staff wear smiles not stiff uniforms, and where everything — from the trout to the towel hooks — feels considered. That’s rare. And that, really, is the essence of true luxury.

Monkey Island Estate – Bray

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It is a little-known fact that there is a private island in the River Thames, a short drive west from London on the edge of the idyllic Berkshire village of Bray. This island’s history dates back 800 years, when it was first inhabited by monks, but it owes its current size (7 acres) and shape to the Great Fire of London in 1666: rubble from buildings destroyed in the fire was transported upstream on barges, expanding the amount of land above the waterline. The island — named either after the original monks, or perhaps because of the myth that King George III was banished here with his pet monkey — became a hedonistic escape for princes and playboys, close enough to the capital to be convenient, but out of the sight of disapproving eyes. The English classical composer Edward Elgar wrote his First Symphony Violin Concerto here, and writers HG Wells and Siegfried Sassoon also visited in the island’s golden era.

Today, Monkey Island and the Grade 1 listed heritage buildings set upon it belong to the luxurious YTL Hotels group. Plenty of the historic features have been preserved and restored, so the Georgian dukes who once frequented this place would approve; but the owners have updated the property for a discerning, 21st century clientele, and it’s easily one of southern England’s most sought-after hotels.

I checked in on one of the hottest days of the summer, parking on the riverbank and crossing the footbridge onto the island. It feels, literally and metaphorically, like a bridge between two worlds, the waters of the Thames creating a dividing line between reality and a dream world.

My home for the weekend was the magnificent Wedgewood Suite, named after the famous 18th century English porcelain manufacturer which is known for its distinctive blue and white jasperware.

The suite is decorated with the same color scheme and was once the estate’s library, suitably grand with its dark wood panelling, huge windows overlooking the gardens, and a fireplace topped with an oil painted portrait.

In the early evening, just as the heat of the day had begun to subside, I stepped out to the jetty, where bar manager Luke awaited me with a boat. Monkey Island makes the most of its location: you can book a self-drive riverboat or a chauffeured river tour, cruising gently along the Thames towards Maidenhead or Henley. You share the waterway with rowing boats and canoes, paddle boards and an occasional swimmer, whilst walkers and their dogs saunter along the Thames Path on the riverbank. The idea of having continental breakfast aboard very much appeals, as does a twilight cocktail made with Monkey Island’s bespoke, small batch gin, YTL Gin.

It was from the jetty that I first spotted Monkey Island’s floating spa, surely the only one of its kind in the British Isles, if not the world. Moored alongside the island, it is a traditional English narrow boat, built for goods and people to move along relatively shallow canals. Historically, such boats would have been pulled along by horses plodding along the tow path, long before the invention of a diesel engine, and although they are no longer used to transport cargo, they have become popular leisure craft.

The spa’s reception is in the boat’s wheelhouse, where you can sit, relax, and enjoy a drink. The boat sits low in the water, so if you look out of the window you might well come face to face with a goose or swan. Both species think they own the island, much to the gardeners’ chagrin.

Onboard the boat, there are three separate treatment rooms, all individual cabins which would make any ship’s captain green with envy. It feels like a very exclusive yacht. You can book a treatment alone or as a couple. The latter would be a very romantic addition to any weekend getaway.

I opted for a massage, 90 minutes of quiet serenity. The boat rocks gently, lulling you towards sleep, whilst the combination of botanical infused products and experienced hands work away the knots and tension. The Floating Spa’s signature treatment is the appropriately named The Monk’s Elixir, which takes its inspiration not only from the monks who once lived here but also the concept of an apothecary’s barge. Ancient wisdom comes to the fore in the preparation of essential oils infused with arnica, angelica, and even frankincense. The smells are potently herbal, adding another sensory dimension to the experience whilst at the same time encouraging you to breathe deeply and slowly.

Minute by minute, I could feel the stresses of the working week subside. Muscles which had become tight from too many hours hunched at my desk steadily unwound. As they did, my mind stopped racing and a calmness descended. By the time the treatment ended, I was so relaxed that I could have napped for hours: I was hardly in a state to move!

The only thing which could arouse me was the prospect of dinner. Extreme relaxation, it seems, stimulates the appetite. Showered and changed into something a little more elegant, I wandered back across the island’s pristine lawn to the terrace of The Monkey Bar. The Monkey Vesper was a must on a gorgeous evening, and it set the scene for an imaginatively curated dinner in the neighboring Monkey Brasserie.

Both the bar and the restaurant are open to non-residents as well as guests, and understandably, plenty of boaters had stopped by for a meal. The softest beef carpaccio and home cured salmon with a tangy lemon goats cheese demonstrated that the chef could do classics well, but it was with the main courses that he found his stride. I’ve never previously seen kimchi paired with beef fillet and tiger prawns, nor had the chance to enjoy duck breast balanced with beetroot. Cod with sautéed courgette and braised fennel, crispy kale, and a champagne sauce stole the show, though, and was a delicious light option, accompanied by an excellent bottle of wine.

www.monkeyislandestate.co.uk

Travel Stories

Swellegant Stays: The Stroud, Gloucestershire

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There was a time when Stroud’s charm lay in its markets and artisan shops, rather than its hotels. Nestled within Gloucestershire’s Five Valleys, the town has always defied easy categorization—neither a quaint Cotswold village nor a bustling metropolitan hub. But now, with the arrival of The Stroud and the refined yet inviting Sauce at The Painswick (www.thepainswick.co.uk), the area finds itself stepping confidently into a new era of hospitality.

Built in 1852 as part of the Great Western Railway, The Stroud has lived many lives: first a Berni Inn, then a Thai restaurant, later abandoned. Now, its butterfly branding signals renewal, as the hotel reclaims its place in Stroud’s evolving landscape. A boutique property with an eye for understated elegance, its bar, wrapped in rich wood panelling, radiates warmth—avoiding both the sauna-like sheen of polished timber and the clichés of an overdone ski chalet aesthetic. Instead, the design embraces natural materials—exposed brick, soft leathers, and slate floors—all with a quiet confidence that whispers rather than shouts.

Upstairs, the rooms delight in their details. Soft pink hues and voile curtains catching the breeze create an air of serenity. But the real star? A copper bathtub—the kind of indulgence that turns a simple stay into something memorable.

Step away from The Stroud, and Stroud itself rewards those who persevere beyond first impressions. The Five Valleys Shopping Centre, its entrance dominated by vape shops and mobile accessory stalls, reveals a surprisingly luxe interior, complete with a gourmet food hall—open late on Fridays for post-work indulgence. There are independent boutiques selling genuinely local crafts, a thriving farmers’ market, and an award-winning wine shop for those with discerning tastes.

And then, just beyond, is Sauce at The Painswick, a restaurant where history meets quiet modernity. Its grand entrance remains, but subtle contemporary touches—a neon sign beside high arched doors, sculptural bowl chandeliers—hint at the restaurant’s evolving identity. The menu reflects this spirit of adaptation. Once traditional, then briefly experimental with shared small plates, Sauce listened to its loyal customers and found balance—a menu that accommodates all appetites and occasions.

Among its offerings, the house Pinot Noir, Les Templiers, is a standout: light, fruity, and effortlessly drinkable. Then there’s the asparagus—so fresh, so perfectly prepared, it serves as a quiet reminder of the joys of Cotswold produce.

https://thestroudhotel.com www.jamesbedford.com

For those wary of Cotswold hotels that charm but isolate, The Stroud is a revelation—boutique comfort without seclusion. Paired with Sauce at The Painswick, it offers a weekend escape where history, hospitality, and modern indulgence coexist seamlessly. And when it’s time to explore beyond the hotel’s walls, there is always Raja Taxi, the local name to know for reliable travel.

www.thestroudhotel.com

Swellegant Stays: The Academy, London

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Settled in a quieter area of London’s West End, The Academy is the perfect spot for a refined and relaxing stay after enjoying an evening of theatre. Surrounded by quintessentially London streets with bookshops, cafes and beautiful townhouses, the hotel melts perfectly into its historic landscape. The fashionable neighbourhood of Bloomsbury was the inspiration for The Academy’s recent renovation, as well as the Bloomsbury Group — a group of influential British writers and artists from the early 20th century such as Virginia Woolf, Vanessa Bell, and E. M. Forster who met to share their ideas. Walking through the Alchemy Bar and the library, you can feel the influence of the writers on the hotel; the interior makes you want to get a drink, sit in the library and discuss recent reads as well as the world around you.

The Academy is made up of five 18th century Georgian houses with a total of 50 rooms, the garden transports you out of a bustling city and settles you into a stillness, perfect for enjoying your afternoon tea. Mr Ma’s Afternoon Tea continues the hotel’s inspiration from influential writers with a menu of traditional English afternoon tea with an Asian twist. Shu Qingchun, a famous Chinese writer known under his pen name Lao She, lived in London and was a lecturer at University of London in the 1920’s. Based on his life in London, in 1929 he wrote Mr Ma and Son. This story was the inspiration for The Academy’s afternoon tea and mimics the journey of the main characters.

The combination of past and present is evident in the hotel’s refurbishment which was completed in 2018 by New York based, award-winning interior design company, Champalimaud. Their ethos is to combine history and character of a property into each of their projects, for a distinct storytelling journey which is all brought together into every design choice. For The Academy, they wanted to combine the renowned London townhouse living, surrounding neighbourhood, and the influential writers of the area into all elements; celebrating the heritage of the hotel’s surroundings with contemporary motifs and realise it into life in each room.

www.theacademyhotel.co.uk

Swellegant Stays: Shakti Prana, Kumaon

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High in the Himalayas you will find Shakti Prana, India’s newest and most remarkable mountain lodge. Opening its doors to discerning guests in October 2025, Swanky Retreats was treated to a preview of a property which exists to help guests reconnect with themselves and with the natural world.

In Sanskrit, Shakti Prana means “breath” and it’s certainly an apt description: the hotel’s location in the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand will take your breath away. The altitude, too, may leave you a little breathless, but nothing has to happen in a rush, so you will always have time to acclimatize.

There are just seven stone built cabins at Shakti Prana, the natural construction material a firm link to the mountain foundations and the views beyond. One of the cabins is a two-bedroom suite; the others offer quiet and privacy for couples. Full height windows entice you to look out, appreciating the changing light and shadows on the peaks across the course of the day. This is a remote spot and everything in the hotel has been carried here by mule train, following a winding path 2,700 feet up the mountainside. The effort and attention to detail have paid off. In every part of the retreat, there is a sense of cohesion and calm, exactly what you need to relax, refresh, and recover from the stresses of the modern world.

Although yoga and wellness is a big part of Shakti Prana’s draw, the principle attraction is nature itself. Don’t just look at the mountains: become part of them. Rise before dawn for a spectacular Himalayan sunrise, then walk a section of Shakti Himalaya’s walking circuit, which links together traditional villages. rebuild body and soul with hearty meals prepared with fresh, seasonal ingredients picked just hours ago in Shakti’s own herb and vegetable gardens. Reflect on the symbiotic relationship we all must have with the natural world, and then, once darkness falls, look up at the myriad of stars so you can feel more at one with the universe.

www.shaktihimalaya.com

Swellegant Stays: Hyperion Hotel Salzburg

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Salzburg has always had a song in its heart, but this year it’s positively humming. The Hyperion Hotel Salzburg, set within a painstakingly restored 19th-century palace, delivers a modern-classic escape that feels both regal and refreshingly current. Step through the marble-clad lobby beneath glittering chandeliers and you’re enveloped in quiet glamour.

This season, the property is celebrating a cinematic milestone: the 60th anniversary of The Sound of Music. To honor the film that immortalized Salzburg’s alpine charm, the hotel’s culinary team has composed a dedicated prix fixe menu that translates favorite scenes into edible art. Picture a golden schnitzel accented with a whimsical “Do-Re-Mi” garnish, or a delicate elderflower-and-lemon dessert designed to evoke the sweet scent of the Austrian hills. Thoughtful wine pairings from the Wachau and Burgenland regions create perfect harmony.

Suites continue the symphony of indulgence. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the baroque skyline and fortress spires, while marble baths and deep soaking tubs invite lingering soaks after a day of exploration. Contemporary furnishings mix with original architectural details—arched windows, intricate plasterwork—to create a setting where heritage and modern luxury coexist beautifully.

By day, it’s easy to follow in the von Trapps’ footsteps. The concierge can arrange private excursions to Mirabell Gardens, the abbey where Maria sang, and the rolling meadows just outside the city limits. Return at dusk to the hotel’s piano-laced lounge for an aperitif before the evening’s culinary performance.

Whether you’re a lifelong devotee of Maria’s story or simply seeking a stylish base to explore Austria’s most lyrical city, the Hyperion ensures the hills—and your palate—are alive with something unforgettable. In a city defined by music, this anniversary celebration strikes precisely the right note.

www.h-hotels.com/en/hyperion/hotels/hyperion-hotel-salzburg

Wellness in the Wild

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By the time the sun sets over the Okavango Delta, painting the horizon in molten gold, you realize something has shifted. The day hasn’t just been beautiful — it’s been healing. Africa has that effect. Now, thanks to Go2Africa’s carefully curated collection of wellness retreats, travelers can weave rejuvenation into their journeys without sacrificing one ounce of luxury.

This isn’t the spa day you squeeze in before your flight home. This is wellness redefined — sunrise yoga on a lagoon deck in Botswana, forest bathing beneath ancient Milkwood trees in South Africa, cacao ceremonies at the foot of Table Mountain, and sound healing deep in the Congo Basin.

“We’re seeing more travelers asking for safaris that go beyond wildlife, allowing them to reset, recharge, and reconnect,” says Ashley Gerrand, Africa Safari Expert at Go2Africa. And the new portfolio? It’s a passport to serenity.

Okavango Awakening — Botswana

Launching November 2025, the Okavango Awakening Wellness Retreat at Nxamaseri Island Lodge is limited to just 10 lucky guests. Picture three nights on a secluded island in the Delta, plus one under the stars at the sacred Tsodilo Hills. Your days unfold with guided breathwork, sunrise yoga, sound healing, and an intimate San Bushmen trance dance. This is wellness you feel in your bones — an invitation to return home lighter, softer, and more connected.

The Sanctuary at Mombo — Botswana

Set in one of the most breathtaking corners of the Okavango, The Sanctuary at Wilderness Mombo Camp debuts in 2025. Think treatment rooms and meditation cocoons, a lap pool glistening under African skies, and curated soundscapes that seem to whisper “stay a while.” Here, wellness isn’t an add-on — it’s the very heart of the experience.

Spier Hotel — South Africa’s Winelands

After a year-long transformation, Spier Hotel reopened in March 2025 as a haven for grown-up relaxation. The new Cape Herbal Bath House is a highlight, infusing wild-harvested botanicals into an aromatic bathing ritual. Add 10 treatment rooms, an adults-only pool, yoga, Pilates, and world-class wine at your doorstep — you may never leave.

The Wallow at Borana — Kenya

Adventure and indulgence meet at The Wallow, Borana Lodge’s solar-powered spa overlooking Mt. Kenya. After a horseback safari or e-bike ride, sink into a massage, facial, or scrub before lounging on the new sundeck with a glass of chilled rosé, watching elephants meander past.

Forest Spa at Grootbos — South Africa

Here, wellness comes draped in green. Beneath Milkwood trees more than a thousand years old, the Forest Spa offers treatments with the forest itself as your soundtrack. Don’t miss the guided forest bathing — part meditation, part sensory awakening — that leaves you breathing deeper than you have in years.

Future Found Sanctuary — Cape Town, South Africa

Perched on the slopes of Table Mountain National Park, this five-star regenerative retreat is as beautiful as it is transformative. Choose from two, three, or five-night journeys blending sound healing, breathwork, African mud scrubs, cacao ceremonies, and hyper-local cuisine. The architecture is breathtaking, the gardens organic, and the pools spring-fed — a sanctuary in every sense.

Kamba Africa — Congo Basin

Between gorilla treks, guests at Kamba can indulge in the Deep Forest Ritual, a massage rooted in rainforest traditions and performed by women trained through eco-tourism initiatives. It’s proof that wellness here benefits both the traveler and community.

Oliver’s Lodge — Mpumalanga, South Africa

Overlooking a championship golf course, Oliver’s Lodge marries Austrian elegance with African warmth. The new infrared sauna therapy offers deep relaxation and detox at gentle temperatures, best paired with a signature oil massage for the ultimate wind-down.

From Botswana to the Congo Basin, Africa’s luxury lodges are creating experiences that slow your breath, open your senses, and leave you quietly changed. This is more than a holiday — it’s an awakening, in some of the most extraordinary places on Earth.

Travel Stories

Escape to Japan

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Japan is a country of stark contrasts, where modern marvels and ancient traditions intersect like a bullet train slicing through the serene countryside. At first glance, Japan may seem at odds with itself; a juxtaposition of futuristic ideas and ancient history. However, if you look a little deeper, you’ll find a unique harmony that’s woven into the very fabric of life and a deep understanding that there is more to life than the relentless rat-race. There is an ardent belief that taking time to rest, relax and recenter is critical to a happy and balanced life, and what better way to relax than by soaking away your troubles in a hot spring in the middle of the forest?

Just a few hours North of Tokyo you will find Tobira Onsen Myojinkan, a Relais and Chateaux accredited retreat nestled in the mountains of Nagano, right outside the city of Matsumoto. Whether you’re looking for a reprieve from the congestion of Tokyo or just looking to disconnect from the modern world and re-connect with nature, Myojinkan is the ideal sanctuary offering what the Japanese call “Tabiji no Naka no Ma”, which refers to the intentional pause that enriches the rhythm of life.

Surrounded by verdant forests, babbling brooks and lofty mountain peaks, Tobira Onsen Myojinkan is harmoniously integrated into the otherwise untouched wilderness. Upon arrival to the hotel, you are ushered from a private shuttle to the foyer where shoes are removed, slippers adorned, and a welcome glass of bubbles is waiting for you in the salon. After refilling your glass and being shown to your room, you are introduced to your very own yukata – a traditional and informal robe akin to the more commonly known and formal kimono. Wearing of the yukata throughout the duration of your stay is encouraged, including to breakfast and dinner. While this may be a foreign and perhaps uncomfortable concept for some, if approached with an open mind, one can very quickly become accustomed to dining at superb restaurants between onsen baths completely free from the traditional confines of pants. Unsurprisingly, donning traditional Japanese garments and meandering between onsens then heading to the salon to enjoy a tipple of local whiskey before dinner can leave one feeling as though they’ve been transported to a different place and time.

Myojinkan offers a variety of Western and Japanese style rooms that blend traditional Japanese décor with modern minimalist luxury and feature interior designs that seamlessly incorporate elements of the exterior landscape. The Zen Room, designed and built with the intention of re-connecting the guest with nature, features locally sourced materials and traditional building techniques that can be found throughout the decor. Tsuchikabe [a wall plastered with mud and straw] is a time-honored technique once used to build and insulate rural homes which gives unique texture and depth to the room’s interior. Small bundles of wood that have been reserved from the thinning of the surrounding forest are used to support the cushions resting on the floor in front of the window, giving the impression that you’re sitting directly among the foliage. The open-air balcony boasts a private onsen which provides even further immersion into the local surroundings, allowing guests to listen to the birds chirp or the rain fall from tree branch to forest floor and ultimately join the gently winding creek.

The Zen Toji Suite exemplifies minimalist luxury and features large open-concept bedroom and living spaces. At the front of the room is a sizeable, heated tatami [woven straw mat] where one can rest directly on the mat, or in large cushion-style chairs, while gazing out the window at the woods and listening to the murmuring of the passing stream. The walk-in shower room, larger than most New York apartments, features its own private onsen bath with infinity edges, filling the room with cedar’s unmistakable and intoxicating aroma. This suite was designed around the ancient concept of toji in which people would stay at a ryokan [traditional Japanese inn] for up to several weeks to take recurring therapeutic hot spring treatments for illnesses. The room is intended for guests to repeat the process of drawing onsen baths to cleanse the body and relax the mind then resting on the tatami mats; a process which is said to sooth, heal and revitalize.

The salon offers a peaceful space with floor to ceiling windows where one can reflect, delve into a book or have quiet conversation, all while enjoying a libation from the bar or a hot cup of tea using locally foraged ingredients. The specialty tea program at Myojinkan allows guests to create their own unique brew using a selection of prepared teas as a base, then incorporate several hyper-local botanicals procured from the forest surrounding the property. In the spring, new fir tree buds are muddled along with sancho peppercorns intentionally left on the trees during the fall harvest to slowly dry over the winter months. Young fir branches are ignited to shroud the maker with a slightly sweet pine aroma before they are submerged in the tea blend, adding a hint of delicate smoke. Steeped for a few minutes then strained into a glass cup to be enjoyed, no two brews will ever be the same. The salon also offers premium Nekohama matcha, an organic matcha tea grown in Japan which uses a unique milling method to reduce bitterness while retaining its vibrant green color without added preservatives. It is as exceptional in sweets and other beverages as it is in its original tea form and has inspired the culinary team at Myojinkan to produce a selection of matcha drinks and desserts.

At Tobira Onsen Myojinkan there are two restaurants, overseen by the Group’s head Chef Masahiro Tanabe, offering the exceptional dining experiences one would expect from a Relais and Chateau property – Shinshu Dining Tobira which offers traditional Japanese cuisine, and Nature French Sai, serving French fine dining. There are very few Ryokan Onsens that offer cuisines other than Japanese, and while the mountains of Nagano may be an unlikely location for a French restaurant, if it wasn’t for the paired wines which are all grown and produced within the Nagano wine valley, one might be led to believe they were dining in the French Alps. Both locations offer breakfast and dinner with menus inspired by the local landscape, highlighting ingredients grown and foraged from the Matsumoto and larger Nagano area.

The meal at Sai, curated by Chef Tomoaki Hando, begins with a creamy and light soup made from udo, a root vegetable similar to burdock that is served alongside a crispy wonton wrapper stuffed with a filling made from fukinoto [butterbur bud] mixed with miso and ricotta. Next is a course of locally grown asparagus, the ends delicately peeled to remove the fibrous outside revealing only the tender hearts. Topped with a sous-vide poached egg and lightly dressed local greens the salad is then finished with a rich sauce made of beef jus and chopped mushrooms, faintly reminiscent of a salad Lyonnaise and paired with an unoaked Chardonnay. The dish that follows is a tried-and-true French classic featuring an immediately recognizable ingredient that is synonymous with spring – kogomi [fiddle head ferns] seasoned and lightly sauteed before being placed inside a vol-au-vents [a savory pastry bowl] made with layers of rich, buttery puff pastry, and served over a sauce of nobiru [wild garlic] and takenoko [bamboo shoot] with a beautiful semi-sweet rosé. Local yukimasu [snow trout] follows, so named for the pristine white colour of the trout’s flesh. It has been lightly smoked with local Sakura [cherry] wood which adds a unique and slightly sweet flavor to the delicate fish that is accompanied by a sauce made of cress and local herbs. The main course of veal loin is roasted on the bone and presented tableside with onion and seasonal root vegetables before being taken to the kitchen to be carved and plated. It is then sauced with a white wine demi-glace that perfectly pairs with the light, fruit forward merlot. The pre-dessert, a traditional French cheese cart adorned with a selection of imported cheeses and a few local offerings, is a welcomed surprise. Kasuga from Bosqueso Cheese Lab is a locally produced semi-firm cow’s milk cheese that is activated by washing the rind with the mineral-rich spring water from the Casuga Kasuga Onsen. Perfectly paired with local honey and house made crostini with dried fruits, the cheese course makes way for the main dessert – a Charlotte aux fraise [strawberry Charlotte cake]. This classic French mousse cake is made with lady finger biscuits, sponge, Bavarian cream and fresh Japanese strawberries, elegantly paired with an inconceivably rich and velvety fromage blanc [white cheese] ice cream.

In the Shinsu dining room, a Japanese tasting menu focused on local seasonal ingredient ensues curated by head Japanese Chef Tetsuya Uchiyama. Born and raised in Azumino, a town next to Matsumoto City, Chef Uchiyama trained in various ryokans in Nagano/Shinsu prefecture and has a deep connection to the area. He is known as a master of the region’s traditional herbs and vegetables which he pairs with other hand-selected ingredients from all over Japan to create his exceptional dishes. The meal commences with small amuse bouche; a soup of burdock that is earthy, rich and creamy but without the use of dairy, accompanied by the first of what would be many expertly chosen sake pairings. Next is a seasonal appetizer plate; five individual dishes containing local ingredients such as fukinoto simmered in dashi, Sakura shrimp cooked in sweetened soy sauce, noburi [wild chives] pickled in white miso, urui [young hosta shoots] topped with karasumi [cured mullet roe] and kogomi [fiddle heads], dressed with warmed chopped walnuts.

The soup course reveals a whole onion suspended in broth, so proficiently poached that it splits effortlessly under the weight of a chopstick. Crowned with tuft of konbu kelp shaved so fine it resembled savory cotton candy, the impossibly delicate onion’s innate sweetness is enveloped by the richly seasoned and umami dashi, flawlessly contrasted by the crisp freshness of the paired sake. A seasonal sashimi plate arrives with three exceptionally fresh selections. Shinshu salmon, another local uniquity produced by breeding rainbow trout and brown trout, is paired with unbelievably tender raw sweet shrimp and firm white kasago [scorpionfish]. Served with blanched wild chives, shiso leaf and freshly grated wasabi, the dish is paired with monomi, a concentrated and highly seasoned condiment of sorts, made of barley and soy as a by-product of local soy sauce production.

The next dish was truly inimitable. Meat of wild black bear, thinly shaved and served in a delicate broth of dashi, with a generous amount of wild watercress and fresh, locally made soba noodles, served on the side, to be added and enjoyed with a small amount of meat and herbs, one bite at a time. Grilled bamboo sprout follows, lightly poached then elegantly charred until just tender and served with tempura clams, wakame seaweed and dashi broth. This is trailed swiftly by an exceptional piece of wagyu tenderloin, perfectly cooked over bamboo charcoal for a touch of smoke and served with a single piece of udo shoot tempura, more local asparagus and a touch of Japanese sea salt on the side, in the event additional seasoning is desired. The final savory plate was a generous selection of nigiri sushi, each bite more delicious than the last, that culminated with two pieces of wagyu beef nigiri. Cooked in the style of tataki, with the edges seared and the centers still perfectly raw. For dessert, some local strawberries seasoned with a touch of sugar and spice, served with yogurt ice cream. So pure, so simple, so incredibly delicious.

Myojinkan offers three “public” onsens baths for guests to enjoy in addition to the ones located in select suites. The naturally occurring mineral rich alkaline spring water is drawn from a local hot spring and distributed throughout the property. A long, quiet soak in a spring-fed onsen at a moderate temperature (approx. 40°C or 104°F) calms the parasympathetic nervous system, relaxes the mind and body as well as aids in softening and soothing the skin. Uniquely, all of the hot water from the showers and taps on the property is alkaline water from the hot springs, while the cold water is filtered pure water direct from the adjacent river.

While the bathing policies of onsens throughout Japan may vary, it is customary that prior to entry one must remove all articles of clothing and prepare themselves in one of the provided shower stations, then enter the bath without garments. For this reason, the bathing areas of the public onsens are separated for male and female guests. While it is not permitted to wear any kind of garment into the bath such as underwear or bathing suits, guests may carry a towel to cover themselves during entry and exit from the baths. There are many onsens in Japan that restrict guests with tattoos from entering the baths, however at Miojinkan, tattoos are permitted.

When not bathing in the onsens or enjoying the gastronomic specialties, the on-site spa Natura provides guests with an array of aroma and massage therapy treatments in rooms that are cozy and quiet with soft, relaxing finishes of tatami mats exposed wood-beam ceilings. The aroma therapy options at Natura are updated with the seasons and utilize a variety of essential oils to increase blood circulation, reduce tension and increase energy, restoring balance and harmony to the body.

While the duality of life in Japan may at times seem conflicting, the intrinsic harmony is powerful and omnipresent. However, like most things omnipresent, our ability to notice and appreciate them often fades and we must force ourselves to slow down, take an intentional pause and get back in tune with the world around us. We must not only learn to hear the rhythm of life but also to slow down and enjoy it instead of perpetually running to the beat. So, whether you’re looking to explore the natural side of Japan, experience the rich history of ryokans or find the perfect way to punctuate your next Japanese vacation, Tobira Onsen Myojinkan is the ideal place to take a pause, nourish your body and your mind, and let the blare of daily life slowly fade into the ether; like steam evaporating off the surface of a warm onsen on a cool spring morning.

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Surf’s Up at Kimpton Beachcomber

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Miami Beach, Florida by Ava Rosales

When my husband and I received the invitation to the Kimpton Surfcomber + Spa for a “sleepover”, there was absolutely no hesitation. I was never one for sleepovers in my childhood days, but let me tell you, doing one as an adult takes on its own special feel. The hubby needed no convincing. His immediate response was, “Is that where we had that amazing steak?” After the emotional and physical wear and tear of the last few months, a respite was just what this doctor ordered. I’m sure a medical doctor would agree, as well. The countdown for departure was on and the wardrobes were packed. Yes, wardrobes, even for an overnighter, after all, you must have your arrival outfit, then the change for dinner, sleepwear, loungewear, and beachwear. I know what you’re thinking- thank heavens it was only one night. Being on South Beach though, with the array of activities and venues to indulge in, one can’t be overprepared. From sunning by the surf to dazzling on the dancefloor, it can be nonstop from sunrise to sunrise, and everything is within a mile of the Surfcomber.

Upon arrival at our sleepover, our cellphone number was taken by the valet and front desk. Their new system of communicating is through text message which gives you the freedom to untether from the resort and still maintain instantaneous contact. We were greeted with a scrub based welcome cocktail and would soon learn more about that tasty concoction. He later engaged us with our very own scrub making class with dragon fruit as the base topped with mescal. The new food and beverage director, Luis, curates experiences for guests such as a daily happy hour from 5 pm – 6 pm offering wine and light bites, the perfect boost to start your stay. As with our previous experiences with the resort, although staff may change, the hospitality and passion for their craft remains unwavering, much to the credit of the general manager, Mohan, who has been a constant there for more than a decade.

There was just enough time to run to the room after cocktail making to freshen up for dinner and don one of the multiple outfits. The executive chef, Gastón, entertained every mouthful of our 6-course tasting menu with his captivating stories of why each ingredient in our sumptuous dishes were selected with care and purpose. The hubby hung on every word and was mesmerized by each morsel, encouraging me to join him on the journey. The burgundy snails were his favorite. I think the visualization of how they were particularly grown and foraged in a specific natural environment made it that much more appealing. Admittedly, I’m not a foodie, but the fall off the bone bison short rib enticed me to dive into that realm momentarily. The pairing coined David and Goliath aptly described the majestic beef meeting the mighty mollusk. The feast featured other clever names for the various courses such as Ménage à Trois which included seared diver scallops, sable fish and chargrilled maitake and leeks. The Soleil was one of my favorite dishes with crisp frisée, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, haricot verts, shaved fennel, cabrales, a shallot vinaigrette and asiago glass. Why glass? Because the cheese was frozen with liquid nitrogen and smashed like glass. The dramatic demonstration of the process carried out in front of our eyes by Chef Gaston. He further reminded us of his talent with an edible chocolate seascape complete with sand, surfboard and palm tree that was delivered to our room while we dined.

The next morning, we didn’t want to miss a moment of the sleepover by staying in bed, as much as the pillows beckoned us to remain. For a quick workout while the onsite gym was under construction, there was access next door and other options nearby, the hubby opted to venture out on a bike ride to the South Beach gym. I took a scenic walk to the beach through the garden, across the boardwalk and onto the pristine sand. There, I encountered staff setting up games and cleverly raking art deco shapes in the sand. The motto on the staff gazebo which read “Life is better at the beach”, was so apropos. All the noise of the reality that I had escaped from just 24 hours ago had long been erased from the recess of my mind. I secured a lounge chair, towels and an umbrella and basked in the sunlit warmth of the morning surveying the majestic ocean. All was well and at peace. The only thing that pulled me away was our need to have breakfast which consisted of cold pressed juices, waffles, an omelet and of course, the hubby had to have steak and eggs. We spent the early afternoon in the upper deck cabana, drinking and dining on tapas while surveying the property and mingling with guests. It was a delightful way to bid adieu to the South of France-inspired ambience that the Surfcomber has created.

I also love how the Kimpton shares its experiences globally amongst their sister resorts. Earlier in the year we were able to experience the incomparable concoctions served up by the Library by the Sea premier cocktail bar from the Kimpton Seafire Resort and Spa on Grand Cayman during their tour to Miami Rum Congress since one of the host sites was the Kimpton Surfcomber + Spa. Cocktails were shaken and served personally by Jim Wrigley from the Library and Mitch Wilson of Black Tot Rum. They served up some of their famous twists on Ernest Hemingway mixes. Jim certainly knows how to spin a yarn of cocktail concoctions and literary connections. I could imagine that on Grand Cayman it isn’t your traditional library visit but you’ll certainly leave just a little more educated, nonetheless.

There’s so much to experience at the Kimpton Surfcomber + Spa with their frequent events and in the surrounding vicinity. Whether you’re staying a week, overnight, or even on a day pass for the pool or spa, the Kimpton Surfcomber + Spa is part of a brand of luxurious boutique resorts that guarantees excellence and an experience that is uniquely out of the ordinary from savory flavors to soul searching experiences – the perfect getaway.

Swanky RetreatsBeyond the Beach

I’ve been lucky enough to slip behind the gates — or in some cases, set sail — at a few of the world’s most exclusive escapes. Here’s my passport to five stays you’ll never want to check out of.

“For years, it’s been a magnet for discerning travelers seeking modern luxury without fuss — where fine food, fresh air and warmth of service take precedence over formality.”

“A single meal at SOURCE barely scratches the surface. The hotel’s second restaurant, Gilpin Spice, is a vivid contrast — a riot of colour, aroma and global flair.”

My home for the weekend was the magnificent Wedgewood Suite, named after the famous 18th century English porcelain manufacturer which is known for its distinctive blue and white jasperware.

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