Home Blog Page 46

Goyard, the Ultimate in Sacks Appeal

0

When top toque Alain Ducasse needed a “chef’s trunk” to spirit his specialty kitchen equipment between far-flung culinary outposts, he approached France’s oldest malletier, Goyard, which began producing quality luggage and leather goods in 1853 (a year earlier than Louis Vuitton!). This exclusive retail equivalent of a three-star Michelin restaurant has long served an elite clientele – maharajahs to movie icons, Rockefellers to rock stars – that values impeccable craftsmanship and bespoke detail-work over flashy fashion-Fascist fads.

Goyard goods seem born to board the Queen Mary II and Orient Express; one imagines their trunks being unpacked for socialites in a James or Fitzgerald novel. Yet the brand originated with a humble Burgundian family specializing in floating wood. At the Industrial Revolution’s zenith, Edmé Goyard and his son, François, moved to Paris and joined Morel, a leading layetier emballeur (case manufacturer). Ardor and ability quickly earned François an associate position. Buying out his partner in 1853, he relocated to 233 rue Saint Honoré, opening Maison Goyard.

 

Vienna’s Spittelberg

0

Swanky Streets:

Looking down the row of neatly ordered houses with their manicured storefronts and prim facades lining cobblestone lanes, I am reminded of Ben Franklin’s observation, “Vice knows she’s ugly so puts on her mask.”

But this is Vienna, a city that has always known the difference between appearance and reality, and the street is Spittelberggasse, the main drag of the Spittelberg district, which has a long, rich history of flouting convention.

Letter from the Caribbean

0

It’s high tide and the water is warm, the food smells delicious and the ti’punch has my head spinning just so. It’s a lazy Thursday afternoon: I’m ready to slip into somewhere very comfortable… and I hear Le Petibonum fits perfectly.

Let me tell you how I wound up at this fabulous gem, part beach bar, part oh-so-good French restaurant. Martinique has been overhauling its image, marrying its classic ambience with a je ne sais quoi youthful spirit. Having covered most of Martinique’s lush tropical lands and the exciting new developments in the capital, Fort de France, I went out in search of what sounded like a fabled place. I’d heard very intriguing stories about the proprietor of this beachside bistro and I needed to find out for myself. Was the restaurant and its chef/owner a myth? Were these tall tales about a scantily clad restaurateur? I had questions!

A little off the main road, down a bumpy stretch of land, lay more than I had anticipated. I wound up on a dark-sand beach, with an erection of red canvases shielding guests from the sun, wooden barrels as side tables and a view of the Caribbean Sea. I’d asked for beachfront, toes-in-the-sand and I got exactly that… and saw the stories come to life. Owned and operated by Guy Ferdinand, also known as Chef Hot Pants! Yep, he wears his chef’s coat and hot pants… that is all. His shock of wavy grey and black hair, brilliant smile and hospitable demeanor can’t distract you from the fact that he is wearing only the shortest shorts and a chef’s coat: They simply add to the flair!

The stories were true. He presented nouvelle cuisine that he had whipped up for the day’s menu. Always creating new dishes and delivering them with a combination of French and Caribbean flourish. He asks me to tell him what was in the dish. I try to detect the ingredients, my eyes closed and mouth full, and manage to nail a few off the tip of my tongue, but the complexity of his dishes leave room for him to expound upon his process. My fish had been sous vide – vacuum-sealed with herbs and spices then poached to perfection. Ooh la la.

What really took my eyes upward – and they may or may not have given a light flutter – was the fresh new dish he presented next. A mason jar filled with delectable goodness, too complex for me to dissect and describe. I believe it was heaven warmed over! You name it, Guy can prepare it… but the trick is to be at his mercy.  I opened my mind, eyes were ever so slightly squinting so as to not appear rude as I stared at nothing but his banging shorts.  I mean, they’re right at eye-level when you’re seated and he starts to excitedly describe what he’s about to bring to the table…it’s, right, there – but I digress.

Take a day and head over to Le Petibonum; it’s on the beach on the island’s west coast called Carbet. Swim, eat, drink ti’ punch (the local rum “cocktail…” you’ll have it everywhere you stop and it’s potent). Some say drink it warm, others with an ice cube, some say watch out, others slam it back… try it and you decide. It’s potent! I bid you adieu as it’s time for me to get up from the table because the music is calling me to dance.

And that never changes on Martinique.

Letter from North America

0
Florida Keys Travel
Florida Keys Travel

 

A mere 80 mile-drive South from Miami International Airport, you’ll find the cozy and relaxing charm of Islamorada. The journey along green mangrove-lined US 1 (also known as the “Overseas Highway”) brings you to the northern part of the Keys, the island chain that forms a narrow spit separating the turquoise waters of the Florida Bay and the Atlantic Ocean.

I’ve always driven through Islamorada thinking there was nothing worth stopping for between Miami and Key West, but I was pleasantly surprised. I’d always thought of it as a rather nondescript destination, aside from beautiful beaches, trying to “out-Key” its neighboring islands with a bigger conch shell or giant lobster in the driveway. For the past 30 years the roadside billboards have advertised t-shirt and sandal outlets, and it has historically prided itself in being “rustic” and super-casual aside from two or three high-end resorts. But as I learned, the tourism bureau and chamber of commerce made a concerted effort over the past few years to renovate several simpler hotels, as well as create a historic arts district with higher-end galleries, boutiques and restaurants.

_N1_2816

Islamorada (named by the early Spanish explorers “Purple Isle,” perhaps because, according to fishermen’s legend, the waters turn an amazing purple at night) has become a very hip destination for couples, families, sports fishermen, boaters, snorkelers, scuba divers and land lovers alike. The palm-lined pristine beaches, calm clear Caribbean seas, luscious tropical vegetation and proximity to island activities such as freshly refurbished accommodations, excellent restaurants, breweries, a whiskey bar, numerous cafes, and an art district walk, make this an ideal place to spend a long weekend.

Island Resorts Company has recently revamped a few hotels and resorts. There is the more relaxed, family-oriented, bright and airy Pelican Cove with its poolside Wild and Lime restaurant situated right on the beach overlooking the lagoon, and its highlight, the marina for boaters and sports fishermen.

My favorite place to stay is the completely renovated Amara Cay with its understated elegance, inviting decor and friendly, gracious service. The muted light colors, reclaimed wood, rattan and green tropical plants throughout remind me of a beach cottage, and the playful hanging papasan chairs in the lobby and bar area invite a relaxed intimate social atmosphere. I had a spacious ocean-view suite and particularly enjoyed waking up in my very comfortable bed to the sound of the ocean waves lapping gently on the beach below my balcony (I had left the doors open overnight to enjoy the sea breezes). The hotel features an excellent gourmet restaurant Oltremare, where Chef Dario serves creative Italian food with a fresh Florida twist. I had the locally caught cobia on melted leeks with candied carrots, followed by Zeppoli Italian doughnuts with Nutella sauce…delicious!

Michelle, one of the supervisors, was most helpful and knowledgeable, sharing some of the island’s geography as well as where to go and what not to miss. Apparently Islamorada is in fact four islands, which include Plantation Key, Windly Key and Upper and Lower Matecumbe Keys. The complimentary hotel’s Mercedes Benz sprinter is a practical way to get around the island attractions such as Oo-tray’s whisky and bourbon bar, with casual “global” dining and live music on the patio, or the historic Morada Way Arts and Cultural District with charming galleries and the now famous Florida Keys Brewing Company, one of two local breweries. Though I was caught up in enjoying the beaches and food, there are some very nice boutiques for fashion and swimwear (Lion’s Liar).

Just north of my hotel, exactly halfway between Miami and Key West, there’s the charming family-run Midway Cafe for all-day brunch, featuring freshly baked pastries, organic (and vegan) dishes, as well as fresh-pressed juices and a wide variety of creative coffee drinks. It also makes arguably the best Key Lime Pie in the area!

Per Amara Cay’s helpful concierge, I grabbed a table in the sand at the Morada Beach Café for a freshly pressed pineapple juice and breathtaking view of the Keys sunset. The pelicans glided by the tranquil afternoon sky, the winds having died down so much that the water was flat as glass. It was hard to distinguish where the ocean and sky met, the little emerald islands seeming to hang suspended in mid-air.

There are two serious sea-to-table restaurants, the elegant Pierre’s located in a two-story white plantation house with wraparound verandas overlooking Morada Bay, and the award-winning Chef Michael’s across the street, one of the few Keys restaurants owned and operated by the chef (and the food is excellent!). Reserve early in the day as the smallish place is constantly packed. Many guests bring their own freshly caught hogfish, grouper, snapper, swordfish and tarpon and have it mouth-wateringly prepared. Prime meat and game are also exquisitely featured. The wine cellar seems to be seriously stocked as I sat eating at the bar between two California vintners and they were very happy.

A fun-family oriented activity is going down a couple of miles to Robbie’s Marina to feed the tarpon and pelicans, then enjoy a wide range of recreational marine activities such as renting kayaks, pedalos, planning fishing, diving and scuba trips, or enjoying a boating excursion. (Of course the staff at Amara Cay will also happily do this for you.) Robbie’s is also famous for its salty Keys-style bar and restaurant on the water that serves Caribbean-inspired cuisine.

I loved my time in Islamorada and was happy to discover how, over the past few years, it has grown up, becoming more sophisticated without losing any of the exquisite beauty of the Keys and gaining so much charm and style. The ‘cool Key’ is a perfect getaway for a long weekend to relax, restore, and nurture body and spirit.

Be inspired: Florida Keys Travel

Amaracayresort.com
Fla-Keys.com

 

 

 

Letter from Asia

0

I touch down in Hong Kong at 9pm after an 18-hour flight from Toronto. I had slept the majority of the last leg and woke up to the wheels of the plane touching down on the tarmac. Still a bit dazed, I cleared customs, grabbed my bag and hailed a cab. My driver skillfully weaves in and out of traffic as I stare out the window: The city rapidly approaches and the buildings grow from specks of light on the horizon to towering giants standing steadfast on both sides of the street, like a parade barricade, ushering me into the heart of the bustling metropolis.

I checked into my hotel in Wan Chai, a district that sits just outside of Central Hong Kong and is a little more rough-and-tumble, especially at night when the streets come alive with late-night dining options and all walks of life. I love parts of cities with character, so I always stay in Wan Chai. The hotel is beautiful – black and white granite everywhere, accented with gold light fixtures and neon blue lights… very Hong Kong.

DSC_3305The only problem is the place is virtually void of life, save for the cute girl behind the desk who checks me in. I walked past the bar for a drink before going to my room, but there is no one there, so I head upstairs. I lie down for a minute and try to trick myself into sleeping, but I’m back in one of my favorite cities and there is no way my mind is letting me sleep. I try to recall the bars I’ve been to near my hotel for a drink. Once primarily known as the red light district, Wan Chai has some excellent – and interesting – nightlife options that get better and wilder as the night progresses, but then it hits me: There is only one place to go in Hong Kong when you want a lively party any hour of the night.

I head back downstairs and take the five-minute taxi ride into Central to a small cobblestone L-shaped street just outside of SoHo known as Lan Kwai Fong, lined on both sides with trendy bars and restaurants. Lan Kwai Fong is Hong Kong’s premier dining and entertainment district and is known around the world as a top party destination: Think the miniature, Far East version of Bourbon Street, minus the Mardi Gras beads.

Much like Bourbon Street, Lan Kwai Fong street’s high concentration of bars, street performers and nonexistent open container laws make it the ideal place for a raging street party where expats, locals and tourists alike come together to hop from bar to bar, listening to live bands play incredible renditions of top 40 and classic rock hits, while dancing away the night well into the morning. Drink specials and all night happy hours are widely available… which makes a night on the town a little easier on the wallet (unlike most other areas of Hong Kong), but harder on the head the next morning.

clubThe bursting popularity of the city’s party pocket has created a dramatic rise in new restaurants over the last few years greatly increasing the availability and quality of dining options in the area. Now boasting over 100 bars and restaurants, Lan Kwai Fong has everything you need for a night on the town from dinner to drinks to live entertainment.

Lan Kwai Fong should be your first destination for a night out in Hong Kong. Keep an eye out for me, I’ll likely be street side at Schooners Bar drinking an ice cold bottle of San Miguel beer or out on the dancefloor at Insomnia, playing air guitar to a Filipino rock & roll cover band.

 

 

Letter from Europe

0

In the middle of London, you expect a hodgepodge of lanes, terraces and places. The thing I least expected was to find, on one of those smaller quainter “side streets,” a brilliant boutique hotel called San Domenico House, with service that surpassed most 5-star properties I’ve visited. The bedding, the tea, the room service, the lighting, the comfort… it’s a melding of the old and the new, a difficult combination to blend so tastefully. This could have been a concoction of catastrophic proportions, a cocktail of shenanigans and cacophony… yet they pulled it off in a quiet understated manner.

But breaking the “rules” is probably my favorite part of discovering this treasure: If you’re looking for a restaurant, there isn’t one… but you can get room service. A bar – there are countless hip spots within a block or two of the hotel. Spa? Check: Sloane Square.

Why am I going on so much about something that seemingly has so little? Because I’m questioning whoever came up with the 5-star rating system that demands all those things I just mentioned…. All the things I love, all the services I’ve grown accustomed to, jaded by and – quite frankly – numb to, I realized I didn’t need. They simply checked all the boxes that were supposed to be in the best of the best places.

San Domenico House Hotel, Chelsea, London, 2013What ultimately counts, for me, is the authenticity, the safety, the genuine hospitality. In a very subtle way, I discovered so much about myself here. Initially I’d asked, “How will I do without these ‘things’? What am I supposed to do with myself in a sitting room that recalls a sophisticated library of a bygone era? It’s just off the reception area and there are crystal stem glasses, thirsting for a cocktail, decanters designed to hold spirits… but no bartender. Teas from all around the world are neatly arranged on a tea tray… but no cups, nor any hot water. How do I take these inanimate objects and fill them with the goodness I’ve grown accustomed to?

No sooner did an inquisitive scowl cross my face than a member of staff appeared at my side. I asked for a cup of tea and within three minutes, a full tea service was laid before me – biscuits and all the trimmings, including a fresh rose. As I sank back into the overstuffed couch, I began to realize what mattered most to me was this: service in a rich and inviting setting.

My scowl was replaced by a smile of contentment and I grew more curious about the hotel itself.  At check-in, they’d mentioned a rooftop terrace with views of Chelsea… What’s a rooftop without the relentless thumping of “DJ blah blah blah” and the hum of you-know-who chatting about what’s-her-name? I’m here to tell you, it’s everything… and nothing! Plush rooms, great service, staff that serves you breakfast in bed… for me, that’s swanky!

 

Adrenaline Rush: Iceland

0
DCIM110GOPRO

Mystical, dangerous, beautiful – Iceland is a realm of stark contrasts unlike any other.  I quickly learn that it is a place that finds harmony in both modern architecture and society, while also embracing its rough, primordial past.  On my voyage to this other world it feels as though I’ve stepped through time to a landscape similar to what the dinosaurs must have experienced – and in fact the first sight upon arriving at Reykjavik’s airport is a magnificent sculpture of a dinosaur hatching from underneath a rainbow.

With the wild landscape of this ever-changing terrain there are countless adventures to choose from, but my goal is to attempt three activities that I’ve never done before, and upon hearing that I can actually go inside of a volcano, I knew that would have to be first on the list.

While many are familiar with Iceland’s volcanic eruption several years ago that managed to disrupt flight patterns all across Europe and beyond, the volcano I’m going to explore most likely won’t have the same fate.  My guide explains that typically when a volcano erupts it ends up collapsing in on itself, but this is one of the few in the entire world that for unknown reasons did not.  Thrihnukagigur Volcano was only discovered about 15 years ago, still intact, however it’s now mostly underground.

Thus I begin my journey from the modern capital city of Reykjavik and travel out into countryside.  Eventually we arrive at what is usually a ski resort, but this time of year the base is used to prep for hiking to the volcano.  I’m given a hazmat-like yellow suit to wear as this is no ordinary hike.  While much of Iceland is a luscious green, the hike to this volcano resembles what the face of Mars must look like.

Elegant Ireland

0

It’s said that the best way to get to know a country is through its food. Some say you get the best perspective by studying its culture. There are many ways, depending on your personal tastes. The way I enjoy absorbing the essence of a country is to get to know locals, do local things, and experience typical days in a destination. The beauty of doing so varies from city to city, place to place, and that’s what excites me. In Ireland, I found the richness of its people in the soul of the island.

Adventures usually kick off from a main city, and most of the stories I’d heard before arriving centered around the country’s capital, which not surprisingly is its largest city… ah, Dubs! Dublin is “grand” – a term you’ll come to know as a quick response to many questions in Ireland. Ask someone how they’re doing, how their day’s been, and sometimes – in place of a thank you, you’ll hear “grand…” Such a lovely way to express a positive sentiment, and the Emerald Isle is an overall positive place.

Like any big city, Dublin in a melting pot and the seat of government, historical sites, hub of trade and a blending of people. It’s a great place to dine, shop, chat and see! The south side of the city has an upscale urban feel, yet cross the Ha’penny Bridge to enter the city’s north side and the difference is immediately striking. Northern part of Dublin city is a bit more modest with an edgy feel. It’s wonderful to have access to both options in such a pedestrian-friendly city. I could spend days people-watching and pub-hopping. A coffee at KilKenny Shop gave me a bird’s-eye view of the streets below as I mapped out the day ahead. So many choices lay ahead…which pub to pop into, and whether or not I should venture into Temple Bar for a dinner at Chameleon’s. From my window seat at the shop, I gained the needed inspiration to get out and tackle that to-do list and get to know Dublin, as best I could.

An Irish friend told me, however, that to see the “real Irish” spirit, I should get out around some of the other bits of the country. For that I turned to Geraldine Murtagh, the owner of Elegant Ireland. Geraldine curates some of the most sought-after villas, castles and luxury homes all around Ireland. For over 35 years, she has hand-picked specific rental options for her clients and I knew that if I wanted an authentic experience, she would create an itinerary that fit the bill… so onward I ventured from my initial home base-Dalkey.

Given everything I had heard about her expertise, it came as no surprise that I was in Villa Ravello, just down the street from Bono. You guessed it, the U2 front-man and I were within striking distance. Every morning, as I soaked in the view of the sea that lay before me, Dalkey Island to my left and the ruins of an ancient castle in the very near distance, I got a taste of the rock star life. Even though I had Finnegan’s pub a five-minute walk away – that’s Bono’s local and the very one he took Michelle Obama to for lunch – I felt the desire to whip up my own dinners in the villa. The kitchen was immense and as I chopped up a salad and popped on some music, I was living the dream of being at home in Ireland. The fireplaces were glowing and the sunset had painted the sky a perfect winter orange. From the kitchen, surrounded by windows on almost every side, I had the best views, but the formal dining room awaited, with its crystal stemware and freshly cut flowers: I couldn’t simply stand in awe and dine in the kitchen. Elegant Ireland had me perfectly perched among the stars, in more ways than one. After days in this suburb of Dublin, it was time to explore some more. Geraldine was very keen on me seeing one of her gems in Northern Ireland.

We met in the city center and after only three hours in the car, we arrived at Crom Castle in County Fermanagh. The drive wended through quaint towns and fields of cattle and sheep. Signs cautioned to be on the lookout for deer crossing. It was a rural escape, and at the end of the drive was a fairytale castle… with an Earl waiting to receive us.

The Earl of Erne, whose family has held the land and building for over 300 years was an unexpected treat. No matter male or female, we all have castle fantasies of being the lord or lady in one. It’s ok, you can admit it, especially with Downton Abbey having been such a hit. Well, here I was, in the middle of everything, surrounded by 2,000 acres of land and lakes. The winter air was making its presence felt and the castle walls were no match for keeping it at bay. Roaring fireplaces and heaters in full effect, bottles of wine were opened and I was regaled with warm tales from the Earl’s childhood, when he was only a Viscount.

Ballyfin, County Laois, Ireland

0

For the uncompromising, there’s no other option, this close to Dublin!  If you’re used to fabulous service, exquisite surroundings and unparalleled attention to detail, then Ballyfin may create a new benchmark for luxury. If you’ve never been exposed to such splendors, then be prepared to be immersed in one of Ireland’s best hotel offerings. You’ll drive through the property’s impressive acreage to reach the main house. That alone is noteworthy, but as you’re greeted – in winter, as I was, with a warm towel to freshen up, you will be immediately enveloped by its austere warmth… two words that usually don’t go together.

Whether you are beneath a canopy in one of their luxurious suites, or choose a more modest – and I use that term very loosely – entry-level suites, you’ll find the amenities and decor surpass your expectations. Every penny of the recent $50 million restoration can be felt, seen, tasted and smelled… right down to the hand soap. After a soak in the tub and stroll to your sleeping area, the body melts into sumptuous bedding.

You’ll want to loll luxuriantly in your gorgeous room, but all the common areas – again, common is probably being misused here – beckon you to sit by the fire and sip champagne, surrounded either by secret passageways or books that date back to the home’s 19th century origins. We will leave the gardens, lake, cascading water feature and grotto to your imagination. Do ask to see the Turner conservatory, and know that the staff is always at the ready: The bartender won’t even leave until he hears your first snore… hopefully from your room. This is the 5-star luxury country home vacation splurge you must add to your list. www.Ballyfin.com

Travel Stories

Gastronomic Gallivants: Cheltenham, England

2025 IS THE 250TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTH OF THE ENGLISH NOVELIST JANE AUSTEN. IF YOU WANT TO LIVE OUT YOUR PRIDE AND PREJUDICE...

Swellegant Stays: Inhabit Hotel, London

Have you ever stayed in a hotel which is in two places at once? Inhabit occupies two different buildings in Paddington, West London, one...

A Letter From… Henley, England

Greetings!There is one week a year when the picturesque town of Henley-on-Thames is in absolute chaos: it is at the start of July, during...

A Letter From… Haute Maurienne Vanoise, France

Bonjour!I have been in Haute Maurienne Vanoise for just a few days but can already feel the pressures of everyday life lifting. Perhaps it...

Ushuaia – The Southernmost City in the World

While it is known as the gateway to Antarctica, Ushuaia is much more than just the launch point for Antarctica cruises. Located at the...
Enjoy dazzling rewards at Ruby Slots! Try your luck and uncover sparkling prizes with every spin!
Step into the world of exciting games at Casino Chan! Play now and claim your Aussie bonuses!
Love pokies? The Pokies casino has you covered! Spin and win today with amazing rewards waiting for you!
Get the ultimate casino experience at Casinonic! Sign up and enjoy thrilling games and huge jackpots!
Unleash your winning potential at Winspirit! Play now and grab fantastic bonuses in Australia!

Experience the edge at Casino Extreme Play and win with extreme excitement!

Swim in success at Yabby Casino Play now for your chance to win!

Unleash your creativity at Avantgarde Casino Win big with innovative gaming!

Enter the realm of Kingdom Casino Where every game is a majestic experience!