The Pig at Harlyn Bay puts food above everything else: the concept grew out of a restaurant with rooms, though it’s become one of the most sought-after places to stay in the west of England.
My room was in the Stonehouse, a former agricultural building in the grounds of the hotel. Whether it housed a horse and cart, a cider press, or a dairy in days gone by, I’m unsure, but the loft space where I stayed has been reimagined into a gorgeous open-plan bedroom and bathroom. The ancient, thick walls ensure it is wonderfully quiet, and I slept soundly in the super-king bed. Should you want the full country farm experience, however, you can also request a shepherd’s hut beside the walled garden. It wouldn’t look out of place in a Thomas Hardy novel.
Food miles are central to the conversation in the kitchen and in the dining room. Wherever possible, The Pig uses ingredients grown on site or produced by local farms. Every item is proudly tracked, so the waiting staff can tell you exactly which producer reared your lamb, caught your scallops, or grew your greens. Visiting the pigs before dinner may deter you from choosing the pork — the piglets are irresistibly cute — but at least you know they’ve had a happy, stress-free life in idyllic surroundings.
Sommelier Jordan Hildersley loves trying wines from wineries which are off the beaten track, and he has curated an imaginative cellar. We stopped for a pre-dinner drink in The Pig’s atmospheric bar, which feels like it belongs in a stylish country house. Jordan then tailored our wine selection to pair perfectly with every dish; the conversation flowed as readily as the wine, making for a perfect evening.
Conveniently, Harlyn Bay is right on the Southwest 660, the UK’s most spectacular coastal road. Whilst you can follow the entire route along the fringes of Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, and Somerset, it is just as appealing to slowly wind your way across a couple of stages on the south side of the Bristol Channel, checking into The Pig as your reward.
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