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BUENOS AIRES From Here…

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The InterContinental, Buenos Aires allows travelers a base in that city’s Montserrat neighborhood that renders an experience of nearby sites, attractions and events while offering guests the promise of all the comforts of home after a day of business or pleasure. Concierge services and staff fluency accommodates guests who speak any of a half dozen of the major languages. The business center is open 24 hours and staffed from 8 AM – 9 PM.

Buenos Aires, Argentina — Colorful Signs in San Telmo District of Buenos Aires — Image by © Jon Hicks/Corbis

In the high rise hotel’s categories beyond executive rooms, guests experience high tread count Egyptian cotton sheets and Canadian goose down duvets in any of the 8 junior, or 2 presidential suites.

From the welcome gift to their turndown service, the chain’s optional Club InterContinental service enhances the guest experience, from your welcome gift to their turn-down service, that package includes an individual welcome, private Club InterContinental Lounge access, complimentary breakfast and daytime light refreshment and the offer to finish up the day with evening drinks. Beyond the hotel’s standard concierge service, Club guests enjoy a dedicated team to handle all details, questions and requests.

If you choose to begin your day with a short walk to the world famous Cafè La Puerto Rico, where patrons have enjoyed café fare and coffee since 1887,  you then head over to nearby Plaza Congreso, the public park facing the national congress,  guests may finish off an informal day and dine in the hotel at Terraza del Virrey’s Argentinian style grill. If you’re feeling a touch more casual, try the InterContinental’s Restaurant Mediterreneo, which closes after a late lunch time, for local and international fare.

 

Wild about Spring in Montana

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This was my first trip to the state and I had been given an itinerary that included spa time, snowshoeing, horseback riding, skijoring, ice skating, dog-sledding, photography workshop, snowmobiling and wine tasting. Every single one of these was right up my alley. I had been craving the snow for months. When winter hat come bursting into life some months back, I had made plans and set intentions to get myself into the white fluffy stuff. I wanted to be active and not just watch the snowfall outside my window while safely tucked in front of a fireplace. Here at The Resort at Paws Up They wouldn’t have it any other way. With 37,000 acres of a unspoiled nature being home to this ranch resort, everything was at my disposal. Every adventure late just outside my door.

Let me begin with my door! I was Lucky enough to spend my stay in one of the estate homes located within the resort. Paws Up offers a multitude of accommodations to the guests and choosing the two-story estate home was an easy choice for me this time of year. Their glamping tented offerings are ones that I’ll definitely come back to in the summer. The estate home please me a short stroll away from the tubing hill, and the activity Outpost center, which served my needs and desires for this trip, perfectly. The Outpost is the hub of all activities as well as home to a magnificent shopping destination. This is the place where are you checked in for all of my activities, met my guides, and got outfitted for the day ahead. What was so extraordinary about this space is that I could have shown up here, at the resort, completely unprepared for the weather and purchased every item necessary for my vacation. The buyers, who are also the owners of the resort, want guess to feel as though they can show up dressed in shorts and a T-shirt in purchase any And everything they need right from this boutique, which is rather large to be called boutique. Their offerings rotate seasonally in guess can find everything from hiking boots to bathing suits, all high-end of course. The selection within the store is so tempting but all the shopping I had done for the trip almost made me mad. It was the sort of buyers remorse in reverse. I want to return all the cute things that I bought back home and: do over and start shopping right here at Paws Up.

I kept my cool though and vowed that next  time I’ll come with at least one empty suitcase and top it up with all the lovely items the owner, Nadine, filled the shop with. Shopping was not my main focus when arriving at the resort, fun and games were and boy did I get my fill. The experience really began from my pick up at the airport. My driver waited patiently for me with the sign, that should have been assigned of things to come. They take your stay at the resort very seriously; wanting to make your experience second to none. Before we even got into the SUV I’m on my driver started telling me about the history of the valley we were about to begin driving through. My mom, who loves Western movies and television shows, would have had a field day. Montana itself is a living history lesson and Paws Up is a slice of that history. One of Charles Lindbergh’s homes is now the spa at the resort, and that’s just one of many anecdotal facts about this very special resort.

As I snowmobile across untouched fields of freshly-fallen snow, I am reminded that there are no neighbors for acres and acres. Some of the closest are grizzly bears in the national reserve, but they are seldom—if ever—seen. This is the untamed frontier Lewis and Clark laid eyes on. The wide open spaces are breathtaking and what’s comforting is knowing that there is a staff to take care of your every need. You can pretend to be “roughing it” while all the while knowing your every need and luxurious desire is taken care of. Having. Car come with every one of the estate homes was its own adventure. I had only driven in the snow, once and for a very short period of time. Here, I could pop up to the house for an outfit change, of pack the car and leave it by Tank, and Trough, the most frequented watering hole and dining establishment of my stay.

Driving in the snow may not seem like an adventure to some, but for me it was a real treat. Now, that being said…being pulled by a team of well cared for and well trained dogs on a dog sled was nothing short of living the dream of Iditarod proportions. Sliding through the tree-lined trails, having the dogs react to their musher, Jake’s voice, and being tucked away behind the animals, it was easy to be transported to another state of mind. The rush of sensations that comes from taking turns and curves at a fast pace while looking up through the skyscraping pine trees as the light dapples the trail ahead left me speechless as Jake told tales of his travels in Alaska, with his dogs.  I could have lingered and petted the dogs for hours after that experience, but the day was still young and a horseback ride was in order. Slowing my pace for this trail ride atop Traveler, took me from 60-0 in about ten  seconds. Mounting Traveler put me high above the snow and my vantage point on this trail ride was perfect for spotting Bald Eagle’s nests perched high above the thawing river. You can’t make this stuff up.

Round Pond Estate Winery happened to be on property for part of my stay and curated some great tastings and dinners. We paired whites and reds with crab and bison. I learned about the wines they produce and the vintners themselves. I think having culinary experiences in a place like Paws Up is unparalleled. The feeling of openness and fresh air all lend themselves to being open to thoroughly enjoying these experiences. Round Pond vineyards Gravel Series paired well with Paws Up. Their tagline is “Passion Rooted in Authenticity” and pairs perfectly with the resort. Authentic, real life experiences are what I crave and I got those at The Resort at Paws Up. I know I’ll be back to enjoy the Fall adventures like hot air ballooning, and visit the glamping sites in summer, but above all, I will return to take part in the Thrillionaire Club. Memembership has its price, “To join this elite adventure club, all you have to do is conquer Paws Up’s most heart-racing outdoor activities—our top 12 sure-fire adrenaline rushes—and you will be bestowed with the title.”

Challenge accepted! Meet me back here in the coming issues of Swanky Retreats to see how I do in my quest to become a member of this elite group. Even if I fall short, I know that there will always be an experienced, passionate guide to help me out and a great wine picked out by the on property Sommelier to ease me into a gorgeous evening under the Montana sky full of stars. Now I see why guests come back year after year and season after season…there’s nothing quite like this place.

www.PawsUp.com

Wild and Wonderful- Barnsley Resort

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Just 60 miles outside of Atlanta, GA tucked amongst winding roads you will find an award-winning Sothern estate dating back to the 1840’s. Barnsley Resort, covers 3,000 acres and has all the space one needs to roam. This historic estate was built by Godfrey Barnsley for his beloved wife Julia and remains now as a testament of their love. The resort features world class quail hunting, golfing and a dizzying array of outdoor activities. Barnsley Resort recently unveiled Georgian Hall and The Inn at Barsnsley. The newly completed Inn brings the total number of guest rooms to 150 and the Hall adds more that 9,000 square feet to the indoor space.

Upon arrival we were greeted by friendly faces and warm southern drawls. The Inn at Barnsley Resort is done in Andrew Downing’s Italiante and gothic revival styles. The resort exudes an English village charm with classic southern touches. My room had a king-sized bed and provided all the creature comforts of home. The bathrooms featured double sinks, a cavernous walk in shower and fabulous lighting. I must say the built-in vanity made me feel like I was preparing for a production of Gone with the Wind instead of outdoor excursions. The property also offers a state-of-the-art gym and spa. I had intended on embracing my inner gym rat but ended up taking brisk walks in the morning just to take in the stunning scenery.

 

One thing you’ll notice as you meander through Barnsley Resort is how they manage to make the massive grounds easy to navigate. The cottages are tastefully done in rich earth tones such as rust, sea foam, and mustard. Each cottage features front/back porches, cozy parlors, and spacious bedrooms. Barnsley Resort is intentional about making sure guest feel connected to the property and those around them. A large stretch of lawn with fire pits, corn hole and assorted games sits in the center of the property. It’s not unusual to see runners in the morning or guest on carts headed to the golf course. At night you’ll often see guest gathered around fire pits roasting marshmallows and making smores.

You cannot come to North Georgia and not indulge in its most precious resource. Land! Barnsley Resort touts a small barnyard, horse stable, world-class golfing, trails, and hunting grounds. I am more of a glamper but everything about this property made getting out in the dirt irresistible. If you are an outdoors person, make sure you plan properly before getting here, so as to not miss out on any of these exciting activities. Hunting enthusiasts should bring their guns (if you are a first-timer, maybe try to get a beginners’ firearm from a gun giveaway contest online) and other equipment, provided they are allowed to travel with them. Others can indulge in the remaining variety of options here. Mainly, be sure to take a horse ride the first day you arrive to really get oriented with the property. I was a horse novice but my trusty stead CJ made my ride enjoyable and I even got a picture of us without any resistance. We even got to meet the boss hog of the barnyard after the ride. He was a little shy but if you’re patient and have a snack he might just make an appearance.

After our ride it was time to prepare for dinner at the ruins. The Manor House Ruins were once home to Godfrey Barnsley and his wife. In 1906, a tornado whisked through the area and took the entire roof with it. Unfortunately, the family was unable to complete repairs and the property had to be abandoned. The ruins have been restored and as you walk up to the Manor House Ruins you pass through a stunning garden that looks much the way it did in its heyday.

The brick building was bathed in soft lighting and the stars twinkled unobstructed in the night sky. Roaring fires and delicious libations welcomed us as we toured the historic home. That evening we were graced with the presence of Barnsley’s resident historian Clent Coker. Throughout cocktail hour he regaled us with tales of love, loss and even murder. We then moved to the main room where we dined on expertly prepared grouper and farm to table veggies. Dinner at the Barnsley Resort ruins really redefined the way I look at al fresco dinning.

The following morning we headed to Woodlands Grill for breakfast. The space is reminiscent of an English hunting lodge and is the resort’s answer to an elevated casual dining option. There you can enjoy classics such as burgers or more refined fare such as their Georgia trout with a southern twist. That morning I had a perfectly prepared egg white goat cheese frittata with fresh fruit. Needless to say I was now adequately fueled for our day of adventure.

Our first stop of the day was clay shooting with High Adventure Company and I found myself highly skeptical about the likelihood of hitting any targets. I am not a terrible shot but let’s just say that I’m used to my targets being stationary. The thought of hitting a clay disc as it flew through the air didn’t seem very likely. Luckily for us we had John Burrell President/CEO of High Adventure Company on hand to show us the ropes. After a brief but thorough safety lesson we got in the stands and got to work. One by one we got to shoot targets of varying difficulty and trajectory. John floated around giving helpful tips and even provided some comic relief when we took ourselves too seriously.

For lunch we made a quick stop at Barnsley’s Beer Garden. Our spread featured BBQ styles from across the south, vegetarian beans, and peach cobbler. From there we were whisked away to our wilderness skills training by the one and only Tom Powell, Barnsley Resort’s resident Naturalist and wilderness specialist. Tom gave us the ABC’s of starting fires, essential camping knots, and proper knife handling. I walked away from our session with my own fire kit and the confidence that I can start a fire the next time I find myself in a sticky situation.

After an evening of leisure spent in my King-sized bed, I awoke ready for a day full of outdoor excursions. We started the day foraging for mushrooms with Barnsley Resort’s Executive Chef Evan Babb. I’ve never foraged before and was a little apprehensive about my ability to correctly identify poisonous mushrooms from non-poisonous ones. Evan joked with us and told us that all mushrooms are safe to eat for up to 30 minutes, but after that it can get tricky. The group spent about an hour collecting mushrooms and as a grand finale Chef Evan found the first truffle ever discovered on Barnsley’s Resort grounds.

Up next was a Safari-style luncheon on Beretta Shooting Grounds. We enjoyed a hearty spread with the likes of rabbit salad, pickled okra, and Brunswick stew. We were joined again by John Burrell of High Adventure Company and prepped for a ride along with the option to Quail hunt. After bundling up we headed out with the dogs. I was so amazed by the skill and passion of the hunting dogs. They ran all over those fields and never once looked like there was anywhere else that they’d rather be.

The Beretta Shooting grounds are covered in waist high grass with patches of trees that rise high into blue Georgia skies. Wandering through those fields with the grass softly swaying and the clouds passing overhead was restorative. After communing with nature, we gathered at the Rice House restaurant for diner. I had some of the best cornbread I’ve ever eaten and the rewards of our forage were deliciously incorporated throughout a multi-course diner.

As a city girl I often forget how comforting wide-open spaces can be. Barnsley Resort is truly an escape from the confines of the city. The ambiance, service, and accommodations made me feel like a was a world away. It is not often that you can find a resort that provides word class experiences but with down home charm. I will certainly be reminiscing about those brisk nights under the stars roasting marshmallows and sipping bourbon.

 

 

 

Copenhagen’s Warm Front

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Words by Ann Marie Scheidler

The Danish people want to let you in on a little secret—Copenhagen isn’t just for summer visitors any more. With their passion for overall wellness, this Scandinavian city has become a must-see destination all year long.

Just when the winter blues could have gotten the best of the Danes, they have leveraged their Scandinavian climate to work to their advantage.

As one of the most popular European cities to visit during the summer, Copenhagen has longed to have tourists come during the colder months as well. To attract a new breed of travelers at a time when the crowds are smaller, this cosmopolitan city has broadened its offerings in the wellness space.

Take the Nimb Hotel for example. Located in the heart of Tivoli Gardens, one of Copenhagen’s most historic landmarks, the Nimb has 38 uniquely decorated rooms and suites—boasting the best of Scandinavian design with Asian touches throughout. An exclusive boutique hotel like no other in the world, the Nimb debuted 21 new guest rooms in November 2017, with most providing open, birchwood fireplaces, large elegant bathrooms with an abundance of Danish-produced amenities (toothbrushes, face masks, and bath bombs to name a few), as well as balconies overlooking Tivoli Gardens. Then in 2018, the Nimb also opened a rooftop terrace with a heated pool (a first in Denmark!) as well as the state-of-the art Nimb Wellness.

If the magnificent rooms (sporting fresh spring flowers even in the dead of winter) and chic dining spaces don’t win you over upon check in, Nimb Wellness will. In addition to providing an exceptional workout facility, Nimb Wellness has a full-service spa offering personally customized massages, acupuncture, guided meditation, body wrap, and facials. No treatment begins without a thorough interview between the specialist and guest, as it’s important for them to understand your goals and areas of concern. And understand they do.

On my first stay at the Nimb, I took advantage of a 30-minute quick fix massage that was booked to focus on my neck and shoulders. But after sharing a little bit about my life with my masseuse, she quickly went to work on my neck and shoulders as well as my legs and lower back using luxurious lotions and oils from the Danish skincare line Meraki. Feeling completely spoiled, we ended our session with some preventive exercises she shared with me to lengthen the benefits of my indulgent massage.

My refreshing service wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the Nimb’s gorgeous Moroccan Hamman. In a 25-minute steam, I completely rid myself of the winter chill and sweat my troubles (and toxins!) away. The Hamman is free to all guests and can be used as frequently as you like during your stay.

The Nimb also encouraged me to take my time before leaving the tranquility of their spa. In their greens-covered relaxation room, I enjoyed a shot of cold-pressed ginger juice and a steaming cup of herbal tea.

Completely refreshed, I was ready to take on whatever the winter weather had in mind for me that day in Copenhagen. I was invigorated and reassured that Nimb Wellness was waiting for me should I need to visit them again.

The Nimb Hotel, Bernstorffsgade 5, 1577 Kobenhavn V, nimb.dk/en, 45 88 70 00 00

Luxury in the Wilderness at Tordrillo Mountain Lodge in Alaska

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The newly renovated Tordrillo Mountain Lodge offers multi-sport, ultimate Alaska adventures, complemented with remote, rustic-modern lodges, private cabins, and luxury lifestyle amenities.  Named for the Tordrillo Mountain Range, known for its world-class ski terrain and weather trends, owners Olympic gold medalist and guide Tommy Moe, and Alaskan heli ski pioneer Mike Overcast, redefined big mountain adventure with heli skiing when they began offering the trips that introduced this untouched region to the world. Since then, Tordrillo Mountain Lodge has expanded, offering summer and winter wilderness adventures for all abilities in the Tordrillo and Alaska Mountain Ranges. The redesigned main lodge offers a completely transformed summertime guest experience to complement their famous winter heli-skiing program. Construction improvements include five new chalets built with sustainably harvested four-sided log, an expanded yoga and fitness studio, and the first via ferrata (fixed steel cable climbing route) in Alaska.

February 20, 2017 – Judd Lake, AK: Tanner Flanagan Heli Skiing with the Tordrillo Mountain Lodge guides.

Just a 40-minute flight from Anchorage, Alaska, on the banks of the Talachulitna River and on Judd Lake, the remote Tordrillo Mountain Lodge complex is within eye shot of two 11,000-foot volcanoes and Denali, North America’s tallest peak. From the minute the floatplane arrives, professionally-trained staff customizes the Tordrillo Mountain Lodge experience to all interests and abilities. Thrill-seeking guests of all abilities can experience endless summer activities to explore the rugged and beautiful Alaskan wilderness from helicopter accessed fat tire mountain biking, world-class fishing, kayaking, canoeing, white water rafting, and glacier hiking to wake surfing, waterskiing, wildlife viewing and Northern Lights observation. The extensive river system around the lodge is home to all of the Pacific salmon species, as well as rainbow trout, Arctic char, and grayling. Tordrillo Mountain Lodge’s remote location provides what feels like private water, accessed by helicopter directly or by floating in rafts inflated on-site at a backcountry river. Guest activities and itineraries are tailored to each group’s desires – from the menu to the adventure.

The recently-renovated flagship main lodge offers full- service, luxury amenities and rustic-modern, Alaska architecture. Adjacent to private cabins and lakeside retreats, the 5,600-square-foot log structure features dramatic walls of windows and three large cedar decks that overlook Judd Lake and the Alaska Range. A lakeside hot tub, bar and dining room are surrounded by breathtaking views, where guests enjoy five- star meals, handpicked wines and premium spirits. Common areas and a spacious, open living room with a hand-built fireplace offer a popular area for relaxing and socializing. Six upstairs guest rooms with private baths accommodate up to 12 guests. Two newly-constructed, private guest cabins are located just west of the Main Lodge. Each one features a spacious bedroom, full bathroom and living room, complete with a glass-enclosed fireplace and unobstructed views of Judd Lake. Each cabin accommodates two guests. The newest of the two lodges in this set of buildings, just across from the flagship location, Judd Lake Lodge sets the standard for lodging in the Alaska wilderness. Nestled on the far side of our private Judd Lake, the interior features modern architecture, including floor- to-ceiling windows and 4,600 square feet of hardwood and stainless steel accents that complement a contemporary, yet cozy environment. Four large suites with private baths each accommodate up to eight guests. For those looking for something ultra exclusive, the Lakeside Retreat & Moose Hall sleeps 8 and includes a private chef, masseuses and your own helicopter and landing pad. After a day of exploring the alpine surroundings, there are numerous luxurious amenities to round-off the stay including in-room spa treatments, a lakeside sauna, an outdoor copper tub, wine tastings and an indulgent Alaskan gastronomical experience.

February 24, 2017 – Judd Lake, AK: Jess McMillan and Tanner Flanagan relaxing in the hot tub at Moose Hall of the Tordrillo Mountain Lodge.

In the winter months, visitors have unrivaled access to the legendary Tordrillo Mountains for heli skiing and snowboarding. The industry’s most accomplished and qualified guide team is ready to lead guests to steep couloirs, open powder fields, or to nab a first-descent. On winter down-days, the lodge offers a range of activities including cross country/skate skiing and fat tire mountain biking on groomed trails around the property, snowshoeing, an ice plunge, and a hot tub.

Summer packages from July 5 – September 15, 2019 start at $6,000 per person​ for three nights. Packages include round-trip float plane flights from Lake Hood, Anchorage to Judd Lake, lodging, two helicopter excursions, all gourmet meals, professional guide services, use of gear and fishing equipment, access to the fitness/yoga center, copper hot tub overlooking the lake and a wood-fired sauna. Winter heli-skiing packages begin at $14,000 per person and include 7 nights of lodging, 7 days of heli-adventures and gourmet meals, safety equipment and ski/snowboard demos, 5 hobbs per group of 4 clients, transportation from Anchorage International Airport to The Hotel Captain Cook, one double occupancy room night at The Hotel Captain Cook the evening prior to your flight toTML, round trip flight between Lake Hood & Judd Lake with arrival on Saturday and departure on Saturday.

 

Offbeat Austin

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Known as the capital of Texas and often as the hippest city in the state, Austin moves to its own beat, no doubt. We visited, thinking that the reputation that preceded the destination was leaning towards hyperbole. We figured the buzz-phrase about keeping Austin weird was some sort of ploy to get folks to visit and see how true the sentiment was. Well, it worked! Maybe the word weird was a misfit or a misnomer by today’s standards and needed and asterisk. Something like, Keep Austin Weird*.

*weird by standards set prior to 2007 when hipsters, millennials, and Gen Z’s weren’t the mainstream of society.

That may look odd on a bumper sticker, but it’s definitely more accurate. The music scene melded with the college town ambiance and the seat of government for one of the most conservative states in the country makes for an eclectic mix of people, all seemingly happy to be in Austin. Dodging the ever-present scooter commuters is now a thing in the city. Tourists see the BirdÒ and JumpÒ scooters as a novel way to get around town and take in more sights, others see them as a bit annoying. Whichever side of the fence you’re on, they’re there and  they add to the vibe. In preparation for what we thought was going to be an immersion into a quirky stay in the city, we chose to stay Westin Downtown Austin. We figured a brand we were familiar with vs. a boutique hotel would give us a sense of place and simultaneously a sense of familiarity.  We loved it!

As we entered the lobby, an abstract wall covering, deep on the back wall of the lobby, gave a nod to the town’s music scene. It was an art installation of a giant guitar and the smiling faces that stood in front of it and us, were our hosts. Checking in was a breeze, especially as we were distracted by the living wall of plants that played well (somehow) off the contract of the guitar that had initially captivated us. Since we were a little early, our room was almost ready, but not quite. We were given a general access key and asked if we wanted to head to Azul, the rooftop pool and bar area. The entrance to the elevator was illuminated by  an oversized ATX (the airport code for Austin) with those large white lightbulbs that sit inside metal letters to give that rustic-hip signage a throwback feel that is every bit as modern as today’s date. We knew we were in for some fun. The energy that our check in agent exuded was fun and hospitable. Arriving on the top floor and walking out to Azul, we were able to take in mostly al of the city. What a fantastic view. The heated pool was throwing off steam and was making sure we didn’t miss its presence. I suppose the rival views of the gorgeous city were best enjoyed while soaking in the pool but since we had not changed in to swimwear yet, we sat by a firepit and gazed out at the skyline. The city views were captivating from up here, but in no time at all, we received a text message that our room was ready.

Thinking we might unpack and then head back up to map out our next move out on the city streets, we were happy wo see our floor to ceiling glass wall with the very same views of the skyline. Talk about a fabulous location, the Westin was directly in the middle of it all. We were so comfy right in the hotel that on night one, we decided to stay in and dine in the hotel’s restaurant, Stella San Jac. The Postmodern living room feel of this dining room was just what we needed. The cutting edge dining experience was wonderful after a long day of traveling. We really tucked in and ordered some of Chef Martin’s specialties: shrimp and lump crab roll, braised short ribs with sweet potato mash and green apple slaw. Even the short rib was prepared with a twist and oh so delicious. After dinner, the evening was cool with a slight breeze so we headed back to the rooftop to watch the city lights lay out before us and sip on cocktails before turning in and watching those same lights from the edge of our bed. What a place!

Venturing around the city and taking iconic selfies under the Austin Motel sign and the street art that says, “I love you so much.” All while listening to music pour out of local bars and cafes, and some right on the sidewalk while strolling down South Congress. There’s a beat to every step you take in this city. After shopping for cowboy boots at Allens Boots, another iconic Austin spot, we figured it was time to enjoy some fun and games Upstairs at Caroline and sip our way through sunset. This is definitely the city’s premier backyard party. It’s urban, edgy, full of music, and great service. One of us may not be a millennial but we both felt like hipsters as we grooved to the beats, played Giant Jenga, tried our hand at cornhole and then settled into our groove over a rousing game of shuffleboard. Sometimes it feels good to stay in your lane but we never knew our lane was shuffleboard. How did we get to “that” age? It doesn’t matter, we were

feeling good and the food and drinks were key elements to the harmonization of that feeling. We love Austin!

This place is anything but weird, we would call it offbeat, but never weird. Besides, Keep Austin Offbeat fits far better on a bumper sticker than Keep Austin Weird, with an asterisk and a lengthy explanation. Come visit and you tell us what you think. Stay at the Westin and see it from our vantage point We are sure you will agree.

www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/auswi-the-westin-austin-downtown/

 

Climb Every Mountain

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Words by Ann Marie Scheidler

Photography provided by Visit Telluride

One of the greatest gifts of being a writer is that new two days are ever the same. One day I may be interviewing an incredible philanthropist and the next fielding an amazing travel adventure.

Travel writing is truly one of my favorite things because it opens my eyes to parts of the world I might not otherwise see. So when invitations come—even those that take me far outside of my comfort zone—I try to always embrace “the yes.”

Just before the holidays, Visit Telluride invited me to come and see their storybook village tucked away in the southwest corner of Colorado. While the city of Telluride is synonymous with iconic skiing, a skier I am not. While I clearly laid my cards on the table explaining I had only sported skis a handful of times in my life, that seemed to only increase the tourism board’s enthusiasm to show me, a non-skier, that Telluride could be my paradise, too.

From Chicago, I flew directly into Montrose, a cozy little regional airport about 90 minutes outside of Telluride. An experienced driver met me upon landing and whisked me safely through the valleys of some of Colorado’s tallest mountain peaks, past Ralph Lauren’s stunning ranch, to the Hotel Telluride where I would stay for the duration of my trip.

The Hotel Telluride is a four-star hotel located in the historic district of Telluride. Its ideal location makes a car completely unnecessary during your vacation as everything is walkable, shuttle-able, or reachable by gondola. With a fireplace going at all times in its lobby during the winter, this sets the tone for the warmth Hotel Telluride exudes—from its free ski storage, on-site restaurant, and complementary coffee, tea, and cookies in the lobby—the pristine Hotel Telluride is an easy choice to hang your hat while you’re visiting Telluride.

Although I was an amateur skier at best (and this only proven on the hills of the Midwest), it was important for my hosts to get me up on the slopes. So after easily renting my equipment from Camel’s Garden Telluride Sports and being carefully evaluated by a team of ski instructors, I was placed in the Telluride Ski School’s “never-ever skied” lesson. For the better part of a day, I grew comfortable in my equipment and confident that I could handle the smaller, shorter runs. But with more time, and maybe one more lesson, I’m sure I would have graduated to the more challenging slopes without any fear.

Having been completely won over by the skiing enthusiasts, I returned to my mission of validating that Telluride is indeed a vacation destination for everyone.

In addition to attracting skiers and snowboarders from around the world, Telluride is a magnet for foodies as well. The rich culinary scene is yet another way this small western town is differentiating itself from others—having been the setting for several episodes of the culturally acclaimed television series “Top Chef.” On our first night in town, we visited the newly opened Tunnel restaurant. Owned and operated by Mark Krasic, who has head local Zest Catering since 2001, he unveiled a throwback to an old-time, speakeasy-inspired restaurant that requires a password (and reservation) to enter. Only 12 lucky diners enjoy a pre-set menu at each seating where the food and drink offerings change seasonally—or at the chef’s whim—in an effort to keep his restaurant concept fresh and unexpected.

Telluride prides itself for not having any chain restaurants making every threshold you pass through feel like a bespoke experience. Another local favorite is Allred’s, the Telluride Ski Resort’s signature restaurant, located at the top of the gondola. We were able to check our ski boots at the door and change into slippers that were waiting to soothe our aching feet. We were treated to an expansive buffet lunch that satisfied every palette, only topped by the most breathtaking panoramic views of Telluride’s most glorious peaks (Telluride has the largest concentration of mountains soaring past 14,000 feet).

And if cutting-edge dining is what you seek, executive chefs Ross Martin and Erich Owen

have recently opened an elevated gathering place that offers unconventional yet approachable food. Once inside, you feel as if you’ve been transported to the heart of one of the country’s most cosmopolitan cities with its chic and urban décor. Their menu and staff live up to the bar its backdrop sets.

Finally, if you prefer a more “to-go” approach to eating, there are a number of choices within walking distance of the slopes. Ghost Town for its eco-approach to dining and The Butcher and The Baker for its endless list of made-to-order breakfast and lunch items topped my list. And The Last Dollar Saloon is a fantastic local bar because it is in fact—where the locals go. And if an après ski with local spirits is your heart’s desire, Telluride’s Distilling may be the best you’ll ever experience.

There is loads of fun shopping if you prefer to take Telluride at your leisure and experience its culture. Filled with art galleries, interior design shops, and fun clothing and souvenir stops—there are plenty of places to keep you occupied if you’re not on the slopes. Additionally, Telluride is making a name for itself in the spa world, debuting a Himalayan Salt Spa Cave at its award-winning Pure Beauty & Wellness Spa. They have an expansive pink salt cave where visitors enjoy beauty treatments and group yoga classes in an environment that promotes detoxifying and stress relief.

If your thrill-seeking itch has yet to be scratched, experience Telluride from a snowmobile—but I have to say this is not for the faint of heart. With Telluride Outfitters as our guide, I saw the ups-and-downs of Telluride’s mountains at 50 miles per hour (fast enough for me). It was an unforgettable experience as the sun shined on our faces as we zipped through the snow.

Telluride is clearly a way of life with its natural beauty, varied landscapes, and its bustling but uncrowded terrain. It captured this non-skier heart and soul.

 

Wild Wanderers: White Desert Whichaway Camp

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Antarctica has the harshest climate on the planet. In winter, there are weeks when the sun never rises above the horizon, and temperatures as low as -98.2 Celsius have been recorded. The South Pole is somewhat warmer: it’s highest recently known temperature, recorded in 2011, is -12.3 Celsius! Rainfall is rare; when precipitation does occur, it falls to the ground as snow.

In spite of this extreme environment, which has earned it the moniker “The White Desert”, Antarctica is far from devoid of life. Blue whale, orca, and colossal squid swim in the Antarctic seas, and on the beaches you will see multiple species of penguin incubating their eggs and raising their chicks, and seal lounging on the rocks. These fantastic creatures, plus the dozens of species of birds which feed off algae and plants, thrive around the periphery of the world’s remotest continent because they are completely undisturbed by humankind. Environmental regulations are strict because we want to keep these lands and waters pristine. This is the bottom of the globe, the last great unexplored wildernesses, and it calls to the most intrepid and imaginative of travelers.

The journey to reach Antarctica is a key part of the adventure. It is possible to sail from Ushuaia at the southernmost tip of Latin America, crossing the turbulent Drake Passage on the way, but if you don’t care for boats (or are pushed for time), Journeysmiths offers you the opportunity to fly from Cape Town in South Africa, landing on Antarctica’s Wolf’s Fang Runway. The international flight in a Gulfstream private jet takes five hours, and it is then just a short hop on to the White Desert Whichaway Camp near the coast. You will have clear views all the way, as you’ll arrive in the middle of the Antarctic summer when there is daylight around the clock. This is the land of the midnight sun.

The first thing to strike you in Antarctica won’t be the cold, because you will be dressed for that. Instead, it is the vast scale and the quietness, which at times is almost eerie. The Wolf’s Fang Mountain Range rises almost vertically from the ice, creating jagged peaks that contrast with the snow in both colour and shape. This will be your first up close sighting of Antarctica, and it is one which will be branded onto your memory as long as you live.

Whichaway Camp — your fabulous polar home — is comprised of a dozen or so bubble-like pods. If you were colonising a far off planet, the architectural designs you would choose would probably not be dissimilar, but the levels of luxury at Whichaway will undoubtedly take you by surprise.

This is glamping, but certainly not as you have ever experienced it before. Each pod is an engineering masterpiece, curved and insulated to protect you from the strong Antarctic winds. The monochrome interiors of the six bedroom pods are softened by the use of different textures, including thick faux fur throws and wicker storage units. There are two twin beds in each pod, and enough space left over for an en suite washing area and toilet, plus a living area with a writing desk.

Separate pods house the camp’s communal spaces. They are stylish and contemporary in their decor, with a flash of the stronger statement colors of brick red and deep blue. Between your outdoor activities you might sit on a tan colored leather sofa poring over topographical expedition maps and books of fine art photography, watch the light slowly change on the snow and ice landscape outside, or chat with fellow guests about what it is that has drawn you to Antarctica.

Whichaway Camp boasts an award winning chef; this an unexpected pleasure in a place so far from civilisation. 14 people can dine together in the round, which builds a warm sense of community between the guests and guides. A three course dinner might well be lit by candlelight, and as it is always cosy inside, you can strip back your thermal layers and don an outfit which is altogether more glamorous. The wine and spirits selection is flown in along with the food, so you will have no difficulty finding your favourite pre dinner tipple, or the right wine pairing for your meal.

Activities at Whichaway Camp are always optional, but it would be a crying shame to venture all this way and not make the most of every opportunity to explore Antarctica. There are professional polar explorers to guide you, and a maximum of 12 guests on site at any one time, so every experience can be tailored to your interests, available time, and level of skill.

The gentlest of all the activities is probably a picnic overlooking the ice waves. Suitable polar clothing is provided as standard, so you don’t have to worry unduly about the cold. As you sit and eat, breathing in the purest air you will ever find, it’s highly recommended to look up at the sky; Antarctic seabirds such as the snow petrel are likely to be circling above.

Hiking and snowshoeing are a little more strenuous and will get your blood pumping. You can travel even further afield if you opt for kite surfing or ice climbing. The latter might well include abseiling down the side of a naturally formed ice sculpture, and you can guarantee the most extraordinary views when you reach a lookout point at a raised elevation. Just imagine the cachet when you regale your friends with those adventures! Nothing can really compare.

One of the undoubted highlights of any visit to Antarctica, though, is the chance to see the continent’s wildlife. There are species here which you simply can’t see anywhere else in the wild, and an encounter with penguin is a must on any trip.

Antarctica has multiple emperor penguin colonies, but one of the largest is a three hour flight along the coast from Whichaway Camp. It is estimated that there are 3,000 breeding pairs of birds here, plus their newly hatched chicks. This particular colony is rarely visited by tourists, so the penguin are wonderfully curious. It is not uncommon for a chick to waddle right up to you, especially if it thinks you might feed it a fish or two!

The icing on the cake of this extraordinary expedition is to go all of the way to the South Pole. People to have done this are still few and far between; the cruise ships which visit Antarctica have no possibility of reaching so far inland. But from Whichaway Camp, Journeysmiths can arrange you to fly five hours into the Antarctic interior to a fuel stop, then two hours more on to reach the pole. It is not that the jet is flying slowly; it is a total distance of 2,400 km, which makes you realise just how huge Antarctica really is.

The South Pole was the Holy Grail of early polar explorers, and getting there is still an impressive feat. The flags of those nationalities which have accompanied it are proudly displayed, so if your country’s flag is not yet there, you might well want to bring one with you and pose for a commemorative photo. You will definitely want to crack open a bottle of the best Champagne in celebration of the fact that whichever direction you walk from the pole, you are going to be heading north.

Close to the pole is the American-run Amundsen Scott South Pole Station where scientists are studying predominantly study astrophysics. When you visit, they will enthusiastically tell you about their work — it’s rare that they have guests to talk to!

Depending on a variety of factors including the weather conditions, you may be able to stay a night at the South Pole. If you do, you will never forget it. There are specialist tents which will enable you to sleep comfortably in one of the wildest places on Earth. A hearty breakfast will equip you for the day ahead, and you can then fly back across the almost endless expanse of snow and ice to Whichaway Camp. A hot bath will await you, and not doubt be very welcome indeed.

http://bit.ly/Whichaway

Swellegant Stays: Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge

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It seems as if the Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge has grown out of the Earth, its organic shape and colours completely in keeping with its natural surroundings. Whether it is a magical seed, or the nest of a giant Delta bird, remains to be seen. However you imagine it originated, the structure is remarkable. Pale timber ribs splay out onto the wooden deck, the walkways are raised up on stilts, and the bar — though made from wood — resembles the curves and layers of a wind and water carved geological formation.

Sandibe Okavango is one of the finest lodges with Botswana’s Okavango Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The property is on a private reserve, so it is never crowded and you can enjoy the incredibly rich wildlife watching undisturbed. Elephant, Cape wild dog, leopard, hippo, Cape buffalo, and even black rhino make this area their home.

The architects took their inspiration for the room design from the shape and scales of the pangolin, a rare, scaly anteater occasionally found nearby. The curved roof, high ceiling, and wide open windows create a tranquil space, and special features include the outdoor rain showers, private plunge pools, and — astoundingly for such a remote location — WiFi.

 

In the central lodge area you can dine beneath century old trees, pamper yourself with a massage in the sala, and browse Sandibe Okavango’s excellent selection of books about Botswana’s flora and fauna in the raised library. Woven baskets, art works, and curios on display all celebrate the rich craft heritage of the Delta. When the daylight starts to fade, you’ll want to position yourself in a prime location to witness the famed African sunset, then join fellow guests for dinner and lively conversation by lantern light around the bonfire.

http://bit.ly/SandibeSafari

Swellegant Stays: Awasi Iguazu

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Iguazu Falls divide Argentina and Brazil, and they are the largest waterfalls in the world. Legend has it that a deity fell in love with a mortal women, and when she spurned his advances he cut the river in two, condemning her to an eternal fall in her canoe.

Awasi Iguazu is a an extraordinary rainforest haven a short drive away from the falls. Brightly colored toucan fly through the tree canopy, and monkeys clatter about on the roofs and wooden decks. Even an occasional ocelot wanders by. The main lodge is light and airy, with indoor and outdoor seating areas where you can while away an afternoon reading, or ask an expert guide to help you identify a species of bird you’ve just seen.

Each of the private wooden villas is built on stilts and has a wrap around terrace with an outdoor plunge pool. Staying here, you are completely immersed in the sounds and scents of the rainforest, and the villas have been carefully designed to blur the lines between indoor spaces and the spectacular natural surroundings.

The materials, colours, and textures of the rainforest have inspired the villas’ design, and the floor-to-ceiling windows act as cinema-like screens for you to watch the wildlife. Decorating the fresh, white walls are botanical engravings and prints of native butterflies, a reminder that you’re a guest in a rich and diverse natural ecosystem.

Chef Aarón Castillo Tellería considers himself to be a culinary guide: his mission is to introduce guests to the fresh, authentic flavours of Argentine cuisine. Many of the ingredients are grown in the lodge’s fertile garden. The taste combinations Aarón creates are light and often unexpected on the palate, and every dish is presented like a contemporary work of art.

http://bit.ly/AwasiIguazu

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