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Swellegant Stays: The Welbeck, London

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Marylebone is one of London’s most stylish and intriguing areas to visit. Go back a thousand years and it was little more than a village, a parish with manor houses well outside the city. But as London expanded, little Marylebone was swallowed up into the City of Westminster. It gentrified, and glamorous Welbeck Street became known for its private medical practices, ballroom, and Egyptian Rooms auction house, as well as for being home to a lively line-up of intellectuals and socialites. The Welbeck Palace Hotel was commissioned in 1907 and in the course of the 20th century reinvented itself many more times, before being born in its latest incarnation, The Welbeck, in February 2025.

Behind the hotel’s grand Edwardian facade are 164 exquisite rooms and suites designed by the award-winning architecture and interior design company Studio Moren. There is a nod to the building’s history in the rooms’ Art Deco-inspired decor, but even the use of gold is tastefully understated. If you are treating yourself (or a loved one) to a swanky weekend away, book one of The Welbeck’s gorgeous suites, complete with boldly painted ceilings and classy art prints on the walls.

The Welbeck’s sustainable bathroom amenities are by Templespa, and if you need expert help to unwind, there is always RUUBY, an in-room beauty concierge service delivering massage, facials, and other beauty and wellness treatments. This embodies the hotel’s mantra: “Stay Well, Travel Well, and Be Well.” The commitment to an active, healthy lifestyle continues through the design of the 24-hour gym, calming pillow sprays to improve your quality of sleep, and even the choice of items on the breakfast menu. Start the day with The Welbeck Ginger Shot – which includes a pinch of cayenne pepper – and you will soon be wide awake and ready to face the world!

The hotel’s Welbecker Bar morphs over the course of 24 hours from cozy retreat serving teas, coffees, and light meals, to a lively cocktail bar. It’s open to guests and locals alike. Line up a couple of the bar tender’s signature drinks, perhaps accompanied by a little snack like porcini arancini or beetroot carpaccio, and relax here late into the evening.

www.thewelbeckhotel.com

Swellegant Stays: Bawe Island, Zanzibar

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The name Zanzibar means “Black Coast”, but what I see in this idyllic archipelago are snow white beaches lapped by gentle waves of the turquoise sea, with a bright blue sky overhead. Bawe Island by The Cocoon Collection is one of Zanzibar’s newest and most exclusive resorts, a 15 minute speed boat ride from the capital, Stone Town.

Arriving by water, you immediately appreciate the privacy of this 30 hectare island. The resort’s 30 luxurious villas are nestled amongst the trees, which provide cool shade and ensure you are never overlooked as you take a dip in your private pool, with an uninterrupted view of the marine reserve and the Indian Ocean beyond.

Rising in the morning to the sound of the waves, the first person you are likely to see is your private butler: his services come as standard if you book a spectacular overwater Lagoon Suite with Pool, which will accommodate up to three adults. If you’re travelling with a larger family group or friends, opt for a Zanzibar Villa or the opulent Sultan Palace, which is one of a kind. The villas are equipped with international brands – bed linens and towels by Frette, bathroom by Villeroy & Boch, and coffee machines by Nespresso – but the textiles, furniture, and objets d’art have a much more local feel. In many cases, they’re the work of Tanzanian artists and designers.

You will come to Bawe Island for rest and relaxation, but if you fancy a more active vacation, or even an active afternoon, there’s plenty to see and do. Make the most of the island location with water sports and diving in the marine reserve; cycle around the island on a customized bike; or build up a sweat on the tennis court. There are yoga and pilates classes and, of course, a sublime spa.

Everything you eat on Bawe Island is included in the rate, and sometimes the most serious decision you will have to make during the day is where to eat. Will it be Japanese teppanyaki beneath the giant baobab tree at the Rising Sun? Do you want to be entertained by chefs’ live cooking stations at The Sand? Or is what you really want a pizza or other comfort food at Sinfonia or The Beach Club? The choice, of course, is yours!

www.baweisland.com

In the Heart of the West End

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London has a rhythm all its own—fast, fashionable, and endlessly fascinating. But tucked just off the electric pulse of Leicester Square, I discovered a rare and luxurious exhale. My husband David and I were recently invited to experience The Londoner,  and let me tell you: this is not your average city stay. This is ‘the’ super boutique hotel where cultural cool meets unapologetic indulgence, and where a stay doesn’t just place you in the center of the city—but above it all.

From the moment we entered the grand lobby, enveloped in elegant textures and warm tones, we knew this was something special. We were escorted to the Corner Suite, one of the hotel’s most illustrious spaces. The design was flawless—Yabu Pushelberg’s signature sophistication wrapped in floor-to-ceiling windows that overlooked the city like a cinematic skyline. It was the kind of suite you don’t want to leave, until you realize The Londoner has created a hotel ‘meant’ to be explored beyond your room.

Down below, quite literally, lies one of my favorite features: The Retreat. A subterranean sanctuary designed for rest, wellness, and total recalibration. I melted into a 90-minute facial curated from the hotel’s new partnership with Omorovicza, the Hungarian skincare brand known for its healing thermal water rituals. There’s something inherently transformative about being in London’s buzzy theatre district one moment, and then in a candlelit cocoon of detoxifying calm the next. I emerged with skin that glowed like I’d just returned from the islands.

Speaking of theatre—The Londoner’s packages have their finger on the cultural pulse. We were treated to front-row seats to Brie Larson’s haunting turn as Elektra, a performance that was as electric as it was unexpected. Between shows and strolls through Soho, we soaked in a world-class exhibition of Cartier jewels at the V&A, and wandered next door for **Siena: The Rise of Painting, 1300–1350** at the National Gallery. The hotel has truly mastered the art of the curated stay—pairing culture with convenience, and luxury with legacy.

And when we needed a break from it all? A Vintage Champagne afternoon tea was served in-suite, followed by in-room hydration therapy (a game-changer after long-haul travel), and a languid evening in The Residence—a guest-only haven with its own bar, library, and snug corners for lounging or sipping cocktails before dinner.

Though we didn’t opt for it this trip, The Londoner’s “Live Like the Ultimate Londoner” experience is now on my travel bucket list: Rolls Royce chauffeur, a private chef, Selfridges personal shopping, and even a bespoke perfume profiling at Miller Harris. Yes, please.

As part of the Edwardian Hotels London collection—alongside the iconic May Fair Hotel—The Londoner is still privately owned and family run, which perhaps explains the incredible attention to detail and warmth throughout the experience. It feels personal, not performative.

So many luxury hotels talk about being an “oasis in the city,” but The Londoner delivers. With 350 rooms, six concept eateries, private screening rooms, and a ballroom fit for a royal fête, it’s a love letter to London—layered, luminous, and always inviting you back for more.

And for us? It’s officially our go-to London address.

Until next time…

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Double the Bliss

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OFFERS MORE THAN JUST SUN-SOAKED BEACHES AND TURQUOISE WATERS—IT’S A DESTINATION WHERE TRANQUILITY AND THRILL LIVE SIDE BY SIDE.

Sardinia offers more than just sun-soaked beaches and turquoise waters—it’s a destination where tranquility and thrill live side by side. This Italian island is a dreamscape for travelers seeking both serenity and stimulation, from lounging on untouched coastlines to hiking rugged inland trails. Whether you crave the calming rhythm of ocean waves or the adrenaline of exploring ancient ruins and wild terrain, Sardinia delivers in full. Its rich culture, mouthwatering cuisine, and breathtaking natural beauty create the perfect backdrop for a getaway that satisfies every mood. In Sardinia, every day offers a choice: unwind, explore—or do both.

For those seeking the perfect base to experience both the restful and adventurous sides of Sardinia, planning your trip with Access Italy, the Italian Destination Management Company founded by the Amorico Family, allows guests to experience the best the island has to offer. Whether it is a boat tour to Maddalena Archipelago, a visit to La Maddalena Island, or visiting the fortress-houses called Nuraghe La Prisgiona and stopping at a local winery to taste the typical wine produced organically in this territory, you can experience the best tailor-made tours in Sardinia as well as throughout Italy.

And for the best stay, the family-run Delphina Hotels & Resorts: an eco-conscious luxury group renowned for blending five-star comfort with a deep respect for nature nestled in the northern Sardinia away from mass tourism. With a curated collection of 12 hotels, six world-class spas, elegant residences and private villas, Valle dell’Erica Resort Thalasso & SPA and Hotel Capo d’Orso Thalasso & SPA standout to offer a blissful summer getaway.

Just minutes from Santa Teresa Gallura, Valle dell’Erica Resort Thalasso & SPA spans 28 hectares of unspoiled nature, overlooking the protected Bocche di Bonifacio reserve and the nearby La Maddalena Archipelago. With its origins dating back to 1958—when it became Sardinia’s first tourist village—this five-star eco-resort has evolved into a haven of barefoot sustainable luxury with timeless Sardinian charm.

The resort’s design celebrates Gallura’s heritage, with handcrafted ceramics, local woodwork, and textiles from the village of Aggius. Each room is thoughtfully styled with artisanal touches, while trails wind through Mediterranean shrubland, leading to hidden coves like Cala Santa Maria and Cala Spargiotto. It’s a place where time slows and nature speaks in every breeze and wave. A true highlight is the Le Thermae Thalasso Centre & SPA, featuring four outdoor seawater pools at varying temperatures, some designed for hydro-fitness and others for deep relaxation. Their signature treatment, Water Therapy, uses warm seawater for weightless, muscle-relieving therapy guided by expert hands—an unforgettable sensory experience. The center follows international thalassotherapy protocols, using pure seawater sourced far offshore, providing real health benefits from improved circulation to skin renewal.

romantic

With culinary experiences being central to life at Valle dell’Erica, the property is home to seven restaurants, allowing guests to enjoy a gourmet journey through Sardinian cuisine. From the traditional flavors of Li Ciusoni, where porceddu and seadas are served against fiery Mediterranean sunsets, to the elegance of Li Zini, where you can dine barefoot on the sand with a plate of oysters and lobster, each meal is an experience. Guests can even join complimentary cooking classes to learn local secrets firsthand.

For couples or honeymooners, the resort offers several ultra-exclusive suites—some with private pools. At the highest point of the resort, immersed in a private wood surrounded by holm oaks, the 2,000 sq. ft. Penthouse Archipelago Suite is one of the most luxurious on the island. This three-bedroom suite provinces spectacular views of the La Maddalena Archipelago and the Straits of Bonifacio and is the true oasis of privacy.

Tucked between the Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena Archipelago, Hotel Capo d’Orso Thalasso & SPA brings an entirely different rhythm—a slower, more intimate tone perfect for couples. Named after the granite bear-shaped mountain it sits beneath, this secluded retreat recently joined The Leading Hotels of the World, affirming its place among the world’s most distinguished destinations.

Surrounded by ancient olive trees and junipers, Capo d’Orso is all about refined relaxation. Guests wake to harp-accompanied breakfasts with sweeping views, then spend their days lounging in hammocks, swimming in hidden bays like Cala Capra, or enjoying a massage in a gazebo enveloped by myrtle and sea breezes.

The 80 handcrafted rooms blend modern comforts with authentic Sardinian design, offering peace and privacy in equal measure. The resort’s L’Incantu Thalasso & Spa Centre is a jewel in the crown. Developed in partnership with award-winning skincare brand Natura Bissé, the spa offers exclusive treatments such as 3D collagen firming rituals and the Inhibit Face Lift. Outdoors, guests can soak in three heated seawater thalasso pools, surrounded by Mediterranean greenery and sculpted granite, creating the ultimate escape into well-being.

Dining here is just as extraordinary. Gli Olivastri offers a romantic terrace breakfast with views of Caprera island, while Il Paguro serves fresh seafood by Cala Capra beach. For an unforgettable evening, Ile Flottante provides a floating platform dining experience surrounded by the turquoise sea—elevating romantic dinners to a dreamlike level. Capo d’Orso is also a gateway to discovery. Guests can embark on luxury boat excursions to nearby islands, explore Corsica’s historic town of Bonifacio, or even charter a private 1927 Norwegian sailing vessel, the Pulcinella, for an old-world maritime adventure. The resort’s private marina also offers helicopter transfers for panoramic aerial views of the archipelago. Sports lovers can tee off on a panoramic 9-hole Pitch & Putt course or enjoy water activities like snorkeling, canoeing, and fishing.

So whether you’re drawn to Sardinia for its untamed coastlines, its refined comforts or rich cultural tapestry, Delphina’s twin jewels invite you to experience double the bliss. Come for the beauty, stay for the serenity—and leave with your spirit renewed.

Whispers of Wellness

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There are places in this world that offer a retreat. And then there are places that, from the moment you arrive, seem to breathe with you—exhaling calm, inhaling your stress, and holding you in a perfect state of wonder. Cowley Manor, nestled just outside Cheltenham in England’s picturesque Cotswolds, is undeniably the latter.

It had been a busy season of travel, events, and unrelenting calendars. When David and I arrived at Cowley Manor for a two-night stay, we didn’t just want relaxation—we craved restoration. As our car wound through the manicured countryside, the landscape gently unfolded into an estate that looked like it had leapt from the pages of a fairytale. The manor’s honeyed stone façade stood tall amidst verdant gardens, its grandeur balanced by a laid-back, almost flirtatious air that made it feel less like a museum and more like a well-loved secret. Room 30 was our sanctuary. A suite that faced the estate’s gardens, it was bathed in natural light and the hush of rustling trees. The interiors struck a harmonious balance—classic English elegance tinged with modern whimsy. Floor-to-ceiling windows framed a view that could rival any oil painting, while rich fabrics, curated design touches, and the most comfortable bed we’d sunk into in months reminded us: this was not just another stay. This was a curated experience. Mornings at Cowley don’t rush you. They invite you. We awoke to birdsong and soft spring sunlight filtering through the curtains.

Our first morning began with a private yoga session with the luminous Stephanie in the Garden Room. Now, I’ve practiced yoga in many corners of the world—on rooftops in Rome, beaches in Bali—but there was something uniquely grounding about being in that space. Stephanie’s approach was gentle yet invigorating. Her flow was intuitively matched to our energy, and as we moved through each pose, the garden just beyond the glass seemed to echo our breath. It was a moment of pure stillness

that lingered long after the final namaste. After class, we slipped into the lounge where two frosted glasses of detox cocktails were waiting. Cowley doesn’t just serve drinks—they serve experiences. Ours was a mix of citrus, herbs, and something mysteriously effervescent that seemed to clear both palate and mind. Sipping slowly in the mid-morning light, the velvet sofas and curated art around us made it feel like we were in a friend’s sumptuous salon—if that friend had impeccable taste and a private chef.

But the highlight of our day—perhaps the entire trip—was the Sound Healing & Ice Bath workshop led by Phillip Campbell and Kathy. I’ll admit, the idea of plunging into icy waters wasn’t something I had enthusiastically anticipated. But as Phillip and Kathy gently introduced us to the philosophy of Tribal Breath, we were both intrigued. Their energy was magnetic, calming, and quietly powerful. The sound healing session began with deep vibrations that resonated through our cores, each note peeling back a layer of tension. Kathy’s voice, rhythmic and steady, guided us into a place of deep clarity.

The ice bath was—well—shocking. But in the best possible way. As I stepped into the bath, every cell in my body seemed to awaken. The cold wasn’t just cold; it was electric. David and I locked eyes, both gasping and laughing through the adrenaline. It was raw, invigorating, and honestly, wildly therapeutic. Emerging from the bath, I felt more alive than I had in months. Like a veil had been lifted. Every sensation felt crisper, every breath deeper.

Still buzzing from the experience, we spent the afternoon at the property’s renowned C-Side Spa, where a pair of Biologique Recherche facials awaited us. The spa is tucked into the landscape—part James Bond lair, part organic temple of calm. It’s sleek, chic, and entirely dedicated to the art of indulgence. The treatments? Transformative. My skin was given a new lease on life, and the level of personalization was unmatched. It wasn’t just about products—it was about understanding. The therapist read my skin like a well-worn novel and tailored every moment accordingly. David, ever the skeptic of spa treatments, emerged from his room blinking in disbelief: “That was…actually incredible,” he admitted. High praise, indeed.

Evenings at Cowley Manor are made for romance. Our dinner was intimate, seated near the windows with a soft golden glow cast over the table. The menu is a celebration of locally sourced ingredients elevated to something exceptional. Each course was a love letter to the region—from the delicate cod to the rich, herbaceous Hereford sirloin. The wine list, too, was a journey in itself, with the sommelier guiding us to a pairing that danced perfectly with every bite.

But it wasn’t just the meals or the rooms or the spa that made our stay unforgettable. It was the seamless, almost invisible service—the kind that never hovers but always appears when needed. Every member of the Cowley team treated us not as guests, but as welcome confidantes, privileged enough to share in their world.

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On our second morning, we wandered the estate, hand in hand. The gardens, designed in the spirit of capability and care, were in full spring bloom—tulips nodding lazily in the breeze, birds weaving through ancient trees, and a sense of timelessness enveloping everything. We discovered quiet corners perfect for reading, hidden benches ideal for whispered secrets, and winding paths that encouraged slow walks and spontaneous detours.

Cowley Manor is not merely a hotel. It is a soulful destination. It invites you to disconnect not from the world, but from the noise. To reconnect with your body, your partner, your breath. Our time here was brief, but its imprint is indelible.

As we packed up to leave, neither of us spoke much. There was a reverent hush in the air—the kind that comes when you know you’ve experienced something rare; something swanky – something sacred.

To say Cowley Manor exceeded expectations would be an understatement. It recalibrated them. For anyone seeking a space where wellness is woven into every detail, where luxury is quiet and intentional, and where even the ice baths feel like a gift—this is your place.

Until next time, Cowley.

Keep whispering your magic.

Suite Dreams – The Telegraph – Tbilisi

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Tbilisi has long been recognized as one of Europe’s coolest capital cities, with bold architecture, vibrant art, fashion, and music scenes, and some of the continent’s best food and wine. This June, the city was crowned with Georgia’s very first member of the Leading Hotels of the World group: The Telegraph Hotel on Shota Rustaveli Avenue.

Originally designed in 1964 by the leading Georgian architects Lado Meskhishvili and Teimuraz Mikashavidze, this was the building of Tbilisi’s telegraph office. Some of the bold, open spaces feel as if Wes Anderson put his spin on Soviet Brutalism, but the renowned design international studio Neri & Hu has now entered the mix, too, bringing everything bang up to date. The Telegraph Hotel is a microcosm of Tbilisi itself, old, new, and completely unique. It’s rightly one of the year’s most hotly anticipated hotel openings, and the perfect excuse to take a stylish vacation in the Caucasus.

Commit yourself to revelling in luxury and book into one of The Telegraph’s utterly fabulous suites, of which there are 18 in the property. The Junior, Executive and Grand Suites have balconies, but it is well worth your while upgrading to the Telegraph Terrace Suite or the Telegraph Presidential Suite, both of which have expansive terraces which more than double your available living area. To put it in perspective, the total area of the Telegraph Presidential Suite, indoor and outside, is larger than two full size tennis courts!

Size isn’t everything, of course; style and comfort are just as important. Neri & Hu have curated a suite which sets a new standard of luxury. In the Presidential Suite, you can breeze in your robe between the two bedrooms and living room, wandering back and forth to the terrace with a cup of freshly brewed coffee in hand, and listening to your favourite vinyl playing on the record player. The sought after Parisian brand Diptyque supplies all the amenities, the faint floral notes of their fragrances lingering on your skin and in the air. The minimalist monochrome decor and design of the furniture gives a slight nod to the building’s 1960s origins, but at the same time there is no doubt that you are also in a modish contemporary space.

to spend all day and all night in your suite, you absolutely must get out and explore the rest of the hotel. The rooftop bar is branded by Rolling Stone and has epic views of the city; celebrity chef Rose Chalalai Singh brings her Bangkok-meets-Paris flair to her latest signature restaurant, Laan Thai; and the live musicians at Tatuza, Tbilisi’s newest and most sophisticated jazz club, will have you dancing into the early hours of the morning.

www.lhw.com/hotel

The-Telegraph-Hoteli-Georgia-Tbilisi-Georgia

Gastronomic Gallivants: Cheltenham, England

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2025 IS THE 250TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTH OF THE ENGLISH NOVELIST JANE AUSTEN. IF YOU WANT TO LIVE OUT YOUR PRIDE AND PREJUDICE FANTASIES – OR EVEN TRY TO FIND YOUR OWN MR. DARCY – THEN IT IS WELL WORTH PAYING A VISIT TO THE REGENCY SPA TOWN OF CHELTENHAM. JANE CAME TO CHELTENHAM WITH HER SISTER, CASSANDRA, IN THE SPRING OF 1816, AND IN ADDITION TO TAKING THE WATERS FOR HER HEALTH, NO DOUBT ENJOYED ALL THE LUXURIES AND SOCIAL EVENTS THAT THE TOWN HAD TO OFFER.

Looking at Visit Cheltenham’s events calendar today, this picturesque destination in the Cotswolds still has plenty to draw discerning guests. Cheltenham Racecourse welcomes 400,000 spectators a year and is busiest during Cheltenham Festival in March. More high-brow are the Cheltenham Literature Festival, Cheltenham Science Festival, and Cheltenham Jazz Festival: Jane would have had plenty to keep herself entertained, and even more to write about! But my favourite festival of the summer is the Cheltenham Food & Drink Festival in June. Dozens of artisanal producers descend on pretty Montpellier Gardens to showcase their goods, many of which are made in the villages surrounding the town. There are cheese masterclasses and guided wine tastings, cookery demonstrations and talks from celebrity chefs. These mouthwatering delights serve as a reminder why Cheltenham is one of the UK’s great culinary centres, at any time of the year.

If you are planning a gastronomic minibreak in Cheltenham, you are going to be spoilt for choice. From cocktail bars to delicatessens, family-run coffee shops to Michelin starred restaurants, the town is bursting at the seams.

To make the most of Cheltenham’s culinary scene, you will want to stay right in the center. Neptune Apartments occupies one of the grandest Georgian buildings on The Promenade, with high ceilings, beautifully restored original features, and dramatic chandeliers. The bold wall colors and opulent fabrics befit the home of one of Jane’s aristocratic characters, and if you do want to swish around in an empire line ball gown, you will have plenty of space to do so.

Neptune’s 12 apartments – all of which are individually styled – mix the 5-star luxury of the best British hotels with the space and comforts of a long stay apartment. In The Painswick, named like all the apartments after an idyllic Cotswold village, you can start the day slowly, making coffee and sitting at the breakfast bar. Meanwhile, at the other end of the day, there’s ample room to sit on a leather armchair talking with a friend into the small hours, sipping on glasses of Champagne. When you are ready to flop, the velvet upholstered bed beckons, its crisp white linens enveloping you as you slumber deeply.

If you only have one night in Cheltenham – though I recommend staying as long as you can – then you must prioritize the very best places to wine and dine. Start your mini tour at The Grape Escape Wine Bar & Merchant on Regent Street, just a few minutes’ walk away from The Promenade. Here, couple Ant and Zoe bring you a truly imaginative selection of wines from around the world, including from less well known wine producers in countries like Croatia, Slovenia, and Georgia. More than 20 wines are available by the glass or carafe at any one time, and the menu changes weekly. If you are stuck, however, and just cannot decide, then ask for the wine flight: five reds or five whites for a very good price of £16.50. If you are feeling particularly brave, you can even try these wines blind, testing your senses to see if you can correctly identify them.

It is no good drinking on an empty stomach, so provided that you won’t spoil your appetite, choose some of the Grape Escape’s snacks to accompany your wine. The pork scratchings are a British pub staple, but far tastier and more refined are the air dried duck breast, Black Down ham from The Somerset Charcuterie Company, and the selection of cheeses from The Cheeseworks along the street. Ant and Zoe have sought out the very best local producers – exactly the kind of businesses which exhibit at the Cheltenham Food & Drink Festival – and added them to their menu so you can try multiple delicious delicacies in one place.

Couple teams is a theme of this article, because the #1 restaurant in Cheltenham, Lumiere, is run by a husband and wife, Chef Patron Jon Howe and General Manager Helen Howe. Lumiere has received numerous accolades, including a Michelin star, and is quite rightly considered to be one of the best restaurants in Britain.

AT LUMIERE, THE QUALITY STARTS WITH THE INGREDIENTS.

To ensure that everything is as fresh and as local as possible, the Howes have established a 15-acre smallholding which serves as their kitchen garden. They have planted a wide range of native crops, from broad beans and garden peas to rhubarb, damsons, and sloes, and are employing a ‘no dig’ method to improve the soil health. Everything grown here is organic, and as they harvest by hand every day, it takes just a matter of hours for the produce to get from the soil to the restaurant’s tables.

On this journey, however, the ingredients go through an almost magical transformation in Jon’s kitchen. The set menus of four-, six-, or eight-courses, plus a vegetarian option, are continually changing depending on what is in season and what Jon fancies cooking. On the chilly winter’s day when we had lunch, the combination of duck and white chocolate was a revelation, but the real crowning achievement was the butter soft Cotswolds venison served with celeriac, morel mushrooms, and black truffle. Perhaps the biggest surprise, however, was the deconstructed tequila slammer palate cleanser with its salt glass, gel orbs filled with a hot-sour mouthful of lime juice, and mist rising in swirls from the wooden dish.

What draws together Neptune, The Great Escape, and Lumiere are attention to detail and absolutely top notch quality. If you take pleasure from the finer things in life and have the taste to distinguish the extraordinary from the merely excellent, then a short break in Cheltenham will deliver in every way.

www.neptuneapartments.co.uk

www.visitcheltenham.com

Swellegant Stays: Inhabit Hotel, London

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Have you ever stayed in a hotel which is in two places at once? Inhabit occupies two different buildings in Paddington, West London, one in Queen’s Gardens and another close by on Southwick Street. This unusual arrangement is just one of the hotel’s charming quirks, which continue through the choice of wall art, the designer furniture, and the carefully curated wellness activities.

At first glance, Inhabit has a strong retro vibe: the color schemes and style of furniture transported me back to the 1960s or ‘70s. But when you look closer, everything has a contemporary twist, bringing it bang up to date. The frequent combination of sage green and cream is calming on the mind, putting guests into the perfect frame of mind for a wellness treatment by Gaia, a sound healing or vinyasa flow yoga class, or simply a good night’s sleep.

Guest rooms are flooded with light, and many of the large windows look out onto Paddington’s distinctive stucco townhouses. There is a strong Scandi influence in the decor, but it is mixed with British design. Many of the artworks and objets d’art are by local designers, there are Skandinavisk toiletries, and you can choose a bespoke aromatherapy scent for your room. If you are traveling with a pampered pooch in tow, they are welcome, too, and the open expanse of Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens is only a short walk away.

When it comes to eating and drinking, everything you need is on site. The Pantry is always stocked with healthy treats, and restaurant Yeotown serves some of the very best meat-free cuisine in London. The fresh bread and pastries come from Luminary Bakery, a social enterprise which supports women who have experienced homelessness or domestic abuse to rebuild their lives; and the lunch and dinner menus are intended to nourish your mind as well as your body. Start with an appetizer like roasted and candied golden beetroot with fresh orange, rocket, and elderflower dressing, followed by a mouthwatering main of pan fried sea bass with asparagus and pea, lemon, and buckwheat risotto.

www.inhabithotels.com

A Letter From… Henley, England

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Greetings!

There is one week a year when the picturesque town of Henley-on-Thames is in absolute chaos: it is at the start of July, during the world-famous Henley Royal Regatta. For six days, rowing crews race on the river, whilst well-heeled, well-dressed spectators watch from marquees on the bank. The Regatta has taken place since 1839 and is very much a British institution, one of the highlights of the social calendar. But oh my, the crowds! If you want to actually enjoy being in Henley, admiring its pretty architecture and wandering on the footpath alongside the Thames, visit at any other time of the year.

Henley feels quintessentially English, and public polls frequently find that it is one of the top places in the country to live. Every street is soaked in history: people have lived here since Roman times, and the town’s weekly market was awarded its charter in the 13th century by King John. The stone bridge across the Thames is listed as a heritage monument, and the parish church, town hall, and The Old Bell pub are all handsome buildings. To spend time in Henley is to leave the stresses of the 21st century behind.

The Relais Henley hotel is very much part of the town’s history. The original building was already in use as an inn in the 1530s: it houses the stonemasons, carpenters, and other craftsmen who were building the nearby Church of St Mary the Virgin. King Charles I stayed here, as did the First Duke of Marlborough.  For much of its past, the building was known as The Red Lion, and its latest custodians (for they are not just owners) have been careful to preserve its character. I must say, they have done a wonderful job: there are wooden beams and centuries-old wall paintings, charming courtyards and even King Charles’ four-poster bed!

I am staying in a riverside room looking out on the Thames. Now and then, a pleasure boat floats by. The blue and white furnishings have an appropriately nautical feel, and the ancient beams overhead also made me think of the ribs of a ship.

I rose slowly and lazily this morning; Henley is not the kind of place you need to rush. The hotel has its own delicatessen, The Henley Deli, so if you do get up too late for breakfast, it doesn’t matter: you can easily pick up freshly brewed coffee and vitamin-rich smoothies, plus a decadently flaky pastry or cake. All of these goodies are baked daily, and the smell of soft, warm scones will start any stomach rumbling.

In Henley, the river is never far away, and as the weather was fine, I headed out on the footpath, through water meadows towards Sonning. This is part of the Thames Path, a long distance walking trail which would take you all the way to the source of the river in the Cotswolds, if you had time. I can see the first signs of spring: a tiny white snowdrop here and there, and daffodils almost ready to bloom. The birds still look a little chilly, but nevertheless they are darting here and there, building their nests and preparing for the arrival of their chicks.

The days are getting longer, pushing sunset back to a more sensible time, but I still made sure I was back at the hotel well in advance of nightfall, to wash and brush up and enjoy a pre-dinner drink in the bar. In summer, you could have an aperitif in the courtyard, but for now, it is not quite warm enough. Instead, I sat cosily in the Quarterdeck Bar, which continues the boat theme of the guestrooms. There is a good line up of cocktails and mocktails, plus an enviable whisky list.

Dinner is served at Restaurant Dominic Chapman. Chapman has cooked in some of the UK’s best restaurants, including Heston Blumentha’s Fat Duck at Bray, but you can see that it is his eponymous restaurant here in Henley which has his heart.

The menu is uncompromisingly British: dishes are simple, wholesome, and delicious. The fried Cornish squid with garlic mayonnaise and paprika melts on your tongue, and you would be hard pressed to find a finer fish than the smoked haddock with bubble and squeak – a traditional favourite made with shredded brussel sprouts, onion, and mashed potato. Dominic offers his own take on fish and chips, elevating this usually humble takeaway dish to another level; and if you do still have space for dessert, his sticky toffee pudding is second to none. I wish that I had saved more room for the cheeses, though, because with names like Stichelton and Stinking Bishop, they certainly caught my attention, and I don’t feel that I did them justice.

Next time you are visiting the UK, do seriously think about taking a short break in Henley. The town is little over half an hour’s drive from Heathrow Airport, so it is faster to get here than into central London. It’s a marvelous place to relax.

See you soon,

A Letter From… Haute Maurienne Vanoise, France

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Bonjour!

I have been in Haute Maurienne Vanoise for just a few days but can already feel the pressures of everyday life lifting. Perhaps it is the fresh mountain air; maybe it is the organic food, or the exercise, or the fact that I feel at one with nature here.

This is a small community: everyone knows everyone else, and villages like Bonneval sur Arc seem to hardly have changed in a century. My guide, Karine, teaches natural history to local school children, engendering from a young age an appreciation and respect for the ecosystem. She bakes her own bread in a communal oven, makes Génépi liqueur with herbs she finds on the mountain, and owns two donkeys. Life in the mountains isn’t always easy, but it helps to be connected to the earth and to the people and animals around you.

Unlike most ski resorts where man forces the mountainside to contort to his whims, here the local people understand that Mother Nature will always win. Rather than attempting to stop avalanches, which are inevitable on the steep, almost entirely tree free slopes, they make their houses avalanche proof. They don’t worry about flooding when the snow melts, because they aren’t so foolish as to build their houses on the floodplain in the first place. In the past, some inhabitants would sleep with their cows to share warmth, and, remarkably in this modern age, a few still do. As one chap I met, Fabrice, put it aptly: “the people who fight nature won’t be fighting for very long.”

I have spent my days at a slower pace than usual, hiking, snow shoeing, and cross country skiing. I even tried the biathlon! The snow is deep and it requires more thought and effort than downhill skiing, but I feel better connected to the environment. I have time to watch my warm breath hanging in the air, to feel the breeze against my cheeks, and to listen to the wind or the birdsong. As an outsider, it seems that there is plenty of snow, although Fabrice told me that there is much less than 20 years ago, and he is pessimistic about the future. The glacier has receded, too, but in spite of this I still spent a magical while inside an ice cave, the blue ice making it look like the winter palace of a fairytale queen.

Exerting myself all day means that I am more than justified feasting on all the local produce at night. There is a cooperative of 40 small dairy farmers here. They pool their milk to make Beaufort and Bleu de Bonneval cheeses, which along with fresh bread from the village bakery is absolutely irresistible. The honey, the sausages, and the cured meats are all similarly local: when you order something to eat, you know exactly where it comes from. Of all the delicious meals so far, Chalet de la Séraphin in Bessans still managed to stand out. They serve all the Savoyard classics – raclette, fondue, and tartiflette – but also a local dish called Farci de Bessans. I heard it described as “poor man’s meatloaf” but that does it a disservice. The minced beef is succulent, the vegetables fresh, and as it is slow cooked for 3-4 hours, everything about it is beautifully tender.

My home for the week is Chez Mami Anna, a chambre d’hôte or traditional French guesthouse in the village of Bessans. It is a chalet style property with a roaring fire for cosy evenings, even when the snowfall outside is thick. With the wood panelled bedrooms I feel like I am still amongst the trees in the forest, and the mountain comes inside, too, as there are roughly hewn flagstones on some of the floors.

The six guest rooms within the chalet are all full of character. You walk on solid parquet in rooms framed by exposed wooden beams. In places, I can still smell the resin in the pine. Much of the furniture has been handmade from local timber, and in a truly charming touch, the linens and towels are hand embroidered. It is as if you are staying in the holiday home of an indulgent aunt, one who dotes on you and understands exactly what it takes to make you relax.

Each morning I wake up, drink strong coffee, and tuck into an extensive breakfast. Often, the bread is still warm, and I butter it with thick homemade butter. The yoghurt is homemade, as is the muesli, and the honey has been gathered from bees which buzz over the meadows. Everything is fresh and local, and it is just such a joyful way to start the day. I wish you were here to taste it with me; I know you would savor every bite!

À bientôt!

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