For a tiny, mountainous, landlocked country with a population just half the size of Florida’s, Austria has produced more brains and brawn than just about any place on earth.
From Sigmund Freud to Arnold Schwarzenegger, from Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart to Johnny Weissmuller (Yes, Tarzan!), Austrians hold their own both in the arts and in the Alps, and their country is the ultimate feast for the mind and the body. Bored with the book you’re reading? Go climb a mountain.
So with that in mind, I thought the best way to honor this stunning land was to indulge all my senses, all at the same time. There’s no better place to do that than in Innsbruck.
The drive from Innsbruck’s main train station to the Hotel Innsbruck is just 10 minutes. In no time at all, I was sitting in the heart of the Old Town, on the bank of the Inns River. I grabbed a typically American breakfast of bacon and eggs, yes, but with some pastry and cake as a nod to my surroundings. I needed to load up on the carbs for my hike the next day in the Alps. (Let me say that again: my hike the next day in the Alps!) Just thinking about it, I ordered more cake.
As a pre-hike warmup, I took a five-minute walk to the emperor’s cenotaph in the Hofkirche Court Church, Tyrol, the region’s most important monument. Emperor Maximilian I is interred here. Deeply religious, his strict instructions detailed his head be shaven after death, all his teeth be removed, and his body covered in lime then wrapped in linen, because he wanted to appear before his maker in the manner in which he was born. From the courtyard to the Gothic Hall, I marveled both at the structure’s grandeur but its longevity as well.
Continuing my warmup, I head across the street to the Imperial Palace, first constructed in 1460. Today, it’s a multi-themed museum focused on more than four centuries of Habsburg rule. After a short perusal of the section entitled Empress Elisabeth’s 19th Century, I head back outside and continue the theme of imperial women, strolling to Innsbruck’s signature piece of architecture, the Golden Roof, a covering of 2,738 gold-colored, fire-gilded copper tiles commissioned by Maximilian I in celebration of his wedding to Bianca Maria Sforza.
I continued my walking tour to the funicular, the Hungerburgbahn, that will take me up a mountain. What is a funicular you may ask? Basically, it’s a train, or perhaps a cable car, that moves up the side of a mountain. Ropes once pulled these trains. For over a century, it was the main way Austrians got up and down these mountains.

In 2007, the old system was retired and replaced with a stunning state-of-the art funicular designed by the acclaimed architect Zaha Hadid. If the mountains and people aren’t enough to get you to Innsbruck, this incredible device and its cutting-edge, futuristic design draws students from around the world who just want to look at and sit on the thing.

You travel on it between four main stations: Congress, Löwenhaus, Alpenzoo and Hungerburg. Each train carries just 130 people, and the ride lasts less than 10 minutes. Yes, that doesn’t sound like much, but the views and feel of this thing are awe-inspiring. Think Star Trek on the Alps.

The concept of this transport system’s credo is “technical innovation in perfect harmony with the nature surrounding it.” That begins to immediately reveal itself in the shape of the bottom station’s roof and overhang that mimics the shape and protection of the mountains that bracket Innsbruck.

I scan my ticket and step aboard a car for the inclined portion of the day, moving from ground level, about 700 feet, to 7,400 feet in 20 minutes. Innsbruck’s stunning tree line and incredible urban accomplishments all recede, and now I’m just a few hundred feet short of a summit in the Nordkette Range.

The first thing I notice is the expected drop in temperature and the increase in wind. A few hundred feet to my left I can actually see the clouds moving up the slope. It’s a dizzying culmination of mind-boggling natural forces acting with a magnificent blend of indifference and relentlessness, and in their own sweet time, to shape this region of a planet.

To my right lies Tyrol’s largest protected area, the Karwendel Nature Park, a natural alpine landscape that is a result of a great sensitivity to the way things ought to be near the top of the world. Straight ahead, several miles across the valley, I see the range to the south of Innsbruck, where I’ll be going on a hike of medium difficulty tomorrow morning.

On both sides of Innsbruck, hikers engage in the full range of their discipline, moving from fairly short, flat walks along obvious trails to steep, days-long, vertigo-inducing challenges that take guests from one alpine hut to the next on overnight hikes. I have decided to sightsee here in the north, and walk tomorrow on the range to the south.

But first, it’s a bit of lunch with a view up here before heading down to the Alpine Zoo. A few hundred feet above Innsbruck, the zoo is an ideal place to take a decompression stop during which I can look down at the city and up at the mountains in front and behind me. The facility houses 150 typical Alpine species, the world’s only zoo to specialize in such a collection.

Back in my room, I run a quick check of email at the wonderful, comfortably modern Hotel Innsbruck. Wi-Fi is available in rooms and common areas and it’s speedy and robust. Whether you’re skiing in winter or hiking in summer, this family-managed, four-star location, built on what was once the city’s perimeter wall, accommodates a range of needs, from single rooms to suites. It really is in a perfect location, but my swim in their indoor pool will have to wait as I am heading back to the Imperial Palace’s courtyard for dinner and an orchestral concert. Tonight Francesco Angelico is conducting Innsbruck’s Tylolian Symphony Orchestra in their performance of a variety of well-known motion picture music.
My reserved table is at Café Sacher, a chain famous throughout Austria. The Sacher family invented the chocolate cake that is loved by so many it’s copied by hotels, restaurants and cafes nationwide. I’m lucky to have reserved this table via the hotel’s concierge as tonight is opening night for a month-long series of nightly concerts, in the courtyard, with different groups playing different selections each weeknight. The event kicks off the 22nd year of such free performances.
The weather is perfect, the house, or should I say courtyard, is packed. I am enjoying some weiner schnitzel (after all, when in Rome) to the accompaniment of “Love Theme” from The Godfather. I finish my dessert of the café’s famous chocolate cake to the theme music from Star Wars. The dark dessert is a fitting tribute to that Dark Lord of the Sith, Vader.
With ears and stomach fully indulged by Austrian performances, I head back to the hotel. Have I mentioned it’s a five minute walk? I keep reminding myself that because tomorrow is the real deal, when I find out just how much Austrian I have in me. Innsbruck’s official website says no experience is required, so I am a perfect candidate.
After a solid night’s sleep, I grab my Camelbak with just the right amount of water as there’s no use in dragging 10 gallons around on my back when I only need a quart. I pack my rain gear and emergency food, an apple, and I head down for breakfast at 8:45 a.m. so I’ll be on time to meet my guide at 9 a.m. in the lobby.
Again, the concierge has hooked me up, advising me on all the Innsbruck card’s benefits. This card gave me free roundtrip passage on the funicular yesterday, and it gets me a trained escort on today’s hike in the heart of the Alps.
I meet Kaschka, who not surprisingly was there early, and he leads me to the bus terminal where we’ll grab our ride out of town so we can begin the 2.5 hour walk. As we leave, I am struck by the wealth of options, urban (museums, shops, restaurants, attractions and shopping) and natural alpine (sunrise, sunset, or nighttime hikes of every difficulty level) on offer. While I could spend a few days here doing either one or the other, I opt to do both, I want to see the mountains from the city and the city from the mountains.

Kaschka tells me his story. He grew up in town and works as guide here in summer. The program, run by the Innsbruck Tourism Authority even lends guests hiking footwear, waterproof packs, jackets and pants if necessary. It operates 7 days a week from May 26 thru September 28, then on weekdays from September 29 thru October 27 on treks of all levels, day or night, rain or shine.

After about a 20-minute bus ride, we arrive in to Tulfes, gateway to the alpine ski events where in 1964 and 1976 the Olympics were held. But today is a summer day and we are heading for the Zirbenweg hike on Patscherkofel Mountain.
As we ascend, we pass several groups of differing sizes and ages of school kids with lots of pep in their step. Kaschka explains they are visibly happy because this is their last week of school. I press on, as happy as the school kids are, and we transition from high alpine meadows to the rocky altitudes above the tree line, moving along sections of trail so wide and flat a car could have passed us. At other times, the footing was wet earth and barely wide enough for two people to pass heading in opposite ways.
After about 90 minutes, we stop at the restaurant atop the ridge for juice and lunch, before heading off on the second half of the trip. We then trek down into the forested mountainside to the cable car that will take me to the return bus station.
I take in the vista and reflect on my time here. I can appreciate how this place evolved as so many of Europe’s cities did—as a defensive fort and supply depot for the Brenner Pass, which dates back to Roman times as one of the principal transit passes of the Eastern Alpine range. In the 18th century, a carriage road was laid out at the behest of Empress Maria Theresa, which in turn became a rail line and the first trans-Alpine rail route without a major tunnel.
Innsbruck’s name translates as “Inn bridge” and that’s what you need to keep in mind. This beautiful place is a bridge, a crossroads, a way station, a transit hub that once tied together empires but now ties together ideas, peoples, cultures—everything that makes life in the 21st century so awe-inspiring. From its historic downtown, small enough to traverse on foot, to its amazing arts and culture scene, to those beautiful mountains, you need to think of every street, eatery, hotel, landmark and funicular stop as an intellectual mountain pass to another state of mind.

When thinking of venturing through southwest Germany by car, I looked no further than a group of luxury hotels strategically positioned in that region. My road trip began in Freiburg at the Colombi Hotel, a classic local institution placed in the heart of the city: close to the train station, steps from the old town and a 15-minute walk from Freiburg’s hiking trailheads.
Close to France and Switzerland as well, the Colombi is a family-run hotel where original owners still visit the site every day. While their high-end Mercedes car service whisked me from the local station—pickups in Basel, Stuttgart, Zurich or Frankfurt are also available.
I check into my junior suite, one of five categories for their 112 non-smoking spaces ranging in size and luxury from the Classic room to the Colombi apartment suite (the latter is perfect for the family that vacations with children), where picture windows offer a scenic view of the town’s landmark: the 500-year-old Freiburg Cathedral, or Freiburger Münster.
In my short time here, I understand why visitors and residents love Germany’s southernmost population center. Its warm, predictable climate provides year-round enjoyment of the natural and man-made outdoors.
Inside the hotel, while the spa charges for nail treatments and massages, use of their steam room, sauna, swimming pool and gym are free to guests. Forgoing the spa for now, I opt to head down for lunch in the hotel’s cafe, famous for their hand made cream cakes, pastries and sweets. My server tells me their chocolate is brought in from France and is transformed into some of the café’s signature creations.
After lunch, I test the public transport system. The bus drops me at the bottom of a gondola that runs up Schauinsland Mountain. Public transport and eco-friendly existence is very important in this region of Germany where mass transit, bicycling, solar power, clean energy and preserving the natural environment aren’t simply fads—they’re beliefs and practices. I appreciate this mindset from atop the mountain as I overlook the region, imagining just how much has changed and how much has remained the same across the centuries.
After returning to ground level, I freshen up in my suite and head down two floors to the Zirbelstube gourmet restaurant that has been delighting diners for 30 years with its warmth. Akin to the interior of a hunting lodge, the space’s dim lights and brown pine walls set a relaxing tone for dinner. The atmosphere only adds to the further enjoyment of my meal where folks at the Michelin Guide have recognized Chef Christoph Fischer with a star. And while closed on Sundays, guests may dine daily at the hotel’s other restaurant, Café Graf Anton.
The kitchen sends out a surprise pate and herring sampler, in addition to the warm starter of fried goose liver, potato foam, boudin noir, green apple and cider glace. For my main course, I enjoyed the entrecote of dry-aged Black Forest beef, fried with mustard and shallots, beans pizzaiola, creamy polenta and baked Béarnaise sauce. I finish with dessert, a caramelized orange chiboust with Grand Marnier, strawberries “Romanoff” and white chocolate cream.
The restaurant’s sommelier, Gerhard Mauerha, is an expert on the Baden region wines. This curator of their 30,000 bottles encompasses about 600 different wines that date back to1934 and spans the globe with selections from both the classic European regions, recently adding New Zealand to the collection.
We began the next day in the shadow of Freiburg’s cathedral for a walking tour of old town. Freiburg’s network of miniature waterways, running along many of this city’s stone streets, are an homage to the vital importance rivers played to settlements that became large population centers. In this case, the nearby Rhine provided a source of drinking water, a means of transport to and from the town and a way to remove sewage and waste products from the city center.
I depart Freiburg and spend nearly 90 minutes driving passed modern windmills and the perennial hills and valleys of the Black Forest Highlands, taking me east through this land of food, wine, heritage and romance.
I arrive in Constance, a city nestled between the Black Forest and the Alps. Constance the lake, known as Bodensee to the Germans, was already here, but what would become Constance the city was founded by the Romans and eventually named for a Roman Emperor roughly translated to Constantine.
I pull up to a wonderfully understated building nestled among trees and quiet streets in a largely residential section of Constance. By planning, building and setting up the Hotel Riva, Birgit and Peter Kolb purchased an existing property in 2004, knocked down the old hotel and incorporated a villa into this final structure as their gourmet restaurant.
The Kolb’s commitment to service and excellence is exemplified in this building. The Riva balances nature, modern convenience and an understated elegance with an eco-friendly design that uses thermal efficiency to keep the hotel’s interior warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
Although the front desk tells me where the elevator to my suite is, I take the nearby spiral staircase up two flights. I admire the construction, a duet of wood and stone where material and design style present simple sophistication. Riva’s architecture invites you to explore, and the private spaces lend themselves to a sense of adventure. Unable to resist looking over its railing, I see the structure is rooted ironically enough in a basement water feature. On the other end of this aesthetically compelling structure I find the hotel’s roof terrace, the water, trees and grass sweeping the sky. Though I consider lingering longer, I head down to my suite to change so I can return for a dip at the spa.
Including the Standard room and Riva Suite, the hotel has six dwelling categories. The 1,292-square-foot suite’s commanding view of the lake has living and dining rooms, two bedrooms—each with its own bathroom, a dressing room and balcony. In all spaces, a complimentary minibar and a great Wifi connection are lovely touches.
After a swim, I rent one of Riva’s bicycles. Though I’ve arrived with a plan for human powered, landside transport, the hotel’s variety of optional activity packages also include yachts, convertible Porsches, gourmet dinners and theater outings.
Fortunately, transnational affiliation and amorphous town growth made it impossible for the Allies to determine which part of this area was Swiss and which part was German. Not wanting to violate Swiss neutrality, Allied air forces left the town alone. As I stroll the oldest section of Constance, I walk a path described from a city plan made up in the 15th Century. During 42 months of meetings, the Council of Constance, rapidly solved the Great Papal Schism. You might wonder how I consider a three-and-a-half year meeting a rapid solution, I offer that the Council solved a problem that ran from 1378-1417. The very building where church representatives met to essentially reduce the number of Roman Catholic Popes from three to one, still stands by the city’s ferry terminal, and is available for rent as a wedding venue, banquet hall or meeting place.
And from that terminal, such is the region’s geography, division and history, that in a 24-mile stretch, I can sail to Austria or other parts of Germany. It’s walking distance, but I bicycle to Switzerland, just because I can. In a bygone era, this convenient location prompted linen commerce with what would become Italian cities, making this place a wealthy, Old World center of trade.
In more recent times, this Rhine-fed body of water is more than a lovely sight to behold and a means of transport between three nations, there is a practical advantage to the lake as it provides Stuttgart, 85 miles away with its drinking water. By land, the Swiss stream to Germany because except for gasoline, prices for similar items are doubled in their country.
With an international afternoon of cycling, and the surprise of apples and a few bottles of water the front desk placed unbidden in the bicycle’s travel pouch behind me, I lock the bike at the ferry terminal and board my boat to Mainau, an island in size but as large as a continent when the volume and variety of flora is considered. Though they’ve been open since dawn and won’t close until sunset, we dock at 3 p.m. at this 112-acre oval of land just off the German coast. I spend a couple hours wandering among things great and small, old and young—the tulips and the sequoias are equally impressive. I consider when the castle was completed in 1746 the sequoia was probably taking root, making the arboretum which opened in 1865, a relative newcomer.
Back at the Riva, I I arrived without a plan and wanted to simply indulge my physical self without leaving the building. I took advantage of the Riva’s spa, gym and the services of their personal trainer. I could also use the plunge pool to snap out of either a steam or sauna, or just chill with a massage and have a tech work on any number of oils and lotions from their St. Barth, Thalgo or Ella Baché products.
After a workout, I went downstairs to the restaurant Ophelia, where its Head Chef Dirk Hoberg’s has received two Michelin stars, as validation of his belief to draw inspiration from the Constance region. Hoberg’s Prussian upbringing placed him in a structured, traditional German environment and he uses that background as a counterpoint to the relatively free-wheeling attitude here in Baden-Wurttemburg
Charcoal from nearby Reichnau Island heats the oil that deep-fried my whitefish caught in the lake just 50 yards away. The pulled pork is local and the beef tartare with beetroot is delicious.
The Riva Hotel opened in 2005 hotel and its villa housing in 2007. They have been serving guests since 2008 in both structures, and though the focus has been on bringing guests from the United Kingdom and the United Arab Emirates, they became members of Small Luxury Hotels in September 2015, and are confident once the United States sees what the hotel and the area have to offer, Americans will be a regular guests as well.
Guests can fly to Stuttgart, visit Black Forest and then come to the lake. Or, travelers may first go to Zurich then come by train or car to the lake for a rural getaway. If you prefer Mount Sentis, you can take the gondola up and either ski down in winter or bicycle down when there’s no snow, then make the hour drive to Constance. In any event, Constance’s blend of relaxation and water-based activities should be either its own destination, or an excellent supplement to a bigger vacation.
Sipping an orange juice on my balcony, a low flying airplane reminds me of the statue I saw near the ferry terminal, a memorial to famed aviator, Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin who was born here. Though he’s famous for his aerial accomplishments, I will remain on the ground and water today as I head off on an 18-mile bicycle ride to the nearby UNESCO World Heritage Site on Reichenau Island. The monastery and 10th century art combine with nearby 14th century timber-framed structures, which are among the oldest such buildings in southern Germany, making it a natural selection for the World Heritage committee.
My time in Constance has come to an end and now that I have hiked, biked and boated myself about the region. It’s now time to head deep into the countryside for a few days of serious withdrawal. Fifty four of Germany’s 237 Michelin starred restaurants are in southwest Germany, and as I head through the countryside, I look forward to the promise of my next destination.

Families are welcome at the The Wald & Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe, a 5-star spa hotel whose family-friendly atmosphere blends with the sophistication of Michelin-star cuisine. Luxury, tradition and friendliness are the mantra throughout the hotel’s four acres and their four major buildings whose architecture reaches back three centuries, to a time when the Hohenlohe Family owned the earliest structures, a hunting lodge that opened in 1716 and was used for hunters who came for a variety of game, especially deer. The structure became the architectural hub from which the other design elements radiate.
The establishment opened as a hotel in 1953, and as my bags are handled, I walk into the check-in area: the lodge’s converted farmhouse. After a friendly, thorough briefing from the front desk at check-in, I am shown to my superior room, with park view in the complex’s newest phase, The Spa Building, a contemporary analog to the 18th century lodge. My WiFi-enabled, flat screen equipped room’s contemporary design blends wonderfully with the garden view presented by my picture window.
I rap the window glass and recall the room door’s thickness then realize even though we’re out in the country, mine is one of 66 spacious dwellings, all with serious sound-deadening design. But enough looking through glass, it’s time to head out and explore some of the things the front desk told me about, and because it’s just down the hall, I start with the spa.
Outside this building, guests enjoy a reduced rate at the golf club where 27 holes allow rotation that keeps the course both fresh and challenging. Inside, the saunas, gym, indoor and outdoor pools and tennis court are all free of charge for guests. There are, of course, costs associated with the Spa and Wellness area where each technician must have enough familiarity with the facility’s 60 treatments so they can evaluate each guest, make the appropriate recommendation and perform the treatment on either individuals or couples via their regionally sourced SanVino products and treatments, all made from the skins of red grapes.
The atmosphere, products and customer service at the spa makes it the only such facility to have been rewarded by the Relax Guide with its highest rating for five successive years. I notice a single elevator door in a fairly nondescript section of the spa and ask where that goes. I am told it’s a direct access to the two-bedroom presidential suite.
The main building’s rooms are in the fashion of an English country manor, and Laura Ashley is perfectly suited for those of the Gate and Garden House. The latter’s walls are particularly thick, adorned with large oil paintings, the self-portraits of the day. Thick walled is how they made things way back when, and I marvel at the restoration work done on this incredibly ornate and exotic structure that was used part time as a hunting lodge. Since this is the lodge, I need to see this palace.

There is a banquet space on the second floor for weddings and other events, with oversized spaces used for bridal preparation and breakout sessions if necessary. Only some of the rooms in this historic structure are air conditioned because not all the spaces could accommodate the ductwork or unit space and wiring those units need.

I’ve done enough exploring for the afternoon, so it’s back to my room for a quick change and shower before heading to my 8 p.m. dinner reservation at the hotel’s restaurant. Lucky for me, it’s open tonight. If you plan on dining there, be sure to make a reservation when you book your room.
When I arrive, I’m taken to my outdoor table and my waiter, Nico, shares his dining philosophy. “Your stomach is like an engine, it must be warned up,” he says and he recommends the chicken appetizer.
Chef Boris Rommel’s philosophy is to combine local and French cuisine, and his enthusiastic refusal to serve lobster or foie gras is proof of the unique and exclusive feeling they embrace here. My marinated fillet of veal and tuna with lemon and seaweed starter followed by foam of asparagus morels with sweetbread and chives bookend the locally sourced boef de Hohenlohe with ox marrow Hollandaise with fried spring leeks and creamed potatoes are complemented by a wonderful pickled rhubarb dessert.

The evening’s temperature is perfect, the food’s arrival, two server preparation and presentation is an elegant yet dramatic crescendo, building then culminating, forkful after forkful, the meal enhancing the region’s and the restaurant’s culinary reputation. The food and service were as fantastic as the outdoor dining environment looked and felt.

And in speaking with Nico, he ends my meal with more culinary philosophy “We want another Michelin Star.” And with food, service and attention to detail like theirs, they seem to be well on their way.
Although my time at The Wald & Schlosshotel gave no hint of a nearby population center, I decide to make a morning trip to nearby Öhringen and have a look at the flower show where the plants spread their petals by day in competition with gardens’ modern art installations that contrast with the centuries-old stone walls of nearby structures, but at night a variety of musicians perform to close each day of this temporary family-oriented exhibition. About 10 minutes down the road I stop off at the Weingut Fürst Hohenlohe Oehringen, a winery that’s been in business since 1256. Today, their 70 acres of vineyards produce about 200,000 bottles a year from organic vineyards. They applied for membership in the prestigious VDP winery association and once their German and international history was reviewed, they became one of 200 members and the only vintner in the southwestern Germany’s district of Hohenlohe.

And with these stops, I head back to The Wald & Schlosshotel, thoroughly relaxed by this wonderful walled city and its gardens against my return trip to the hustle and bustle of my American hometown.

Like any piece of art, there are layers to this hotel, and by no mere coincidence, their relationship with art is what fuels the hotel’s decor and ambiance. The moment you step up onto the veranda and the front doors open for you, you know that this is different from any other Art Deco hotel on Ocean Drive. Inviting and classy immediately spring to mind; with a distinct mansion-on-the-beach vibe, you wend your way through the art filled corridors and up to the roof, discovering the rich textures that evoke nothing short of deep feelings of being truly welcomed into this space. You to begin to create a deeper relationship with the art of relaxing and enjoyment. Having had the original oceanfront hotel in the family for well years and years, the proprietors decided to expand and with that expansion being recently completed, it allows more of us to partake in its, now almost extinct, upscale Ocean Drive ambiance. The Betsy is the embodiment of the classic South Beach experience that made Ocean Drive a destination. It is part art, a piece of music, lined with poetry, and steeped in history, all while maintaining its pole position as a modern hip hotel. To say it’s everything would be an overstatement but to say that it’s great would actually hit the nail on the head.

Positioned at the tippy top of the strand, you overlook Ocean Drive with ease, yet are worlds away from the now pervasive blasts of music and hecklers found only a couple of blocks south of here. At The Betsy, things are the way South Beach was when it first became a destination, but before two beers in a giant margarita glass was even a thing, much less a thing to be caught doing. This is classic class and casual refinement. Somehow being on the veranda, inches from the sidewalk, you’re elevated and away from the passing crowd but still in prime position to people watch. Admit it, it’s a guilty pleasure and as long as we aren’t being mean to others, no harm done. Plus, from here you can see the fresh and fabulous arrive, in addition to the cast of characters that make South Beach an eclectic sensory experience. From fast cars and people to couples strolling along, you get to see it all. The Lamborghini and Bentley crowd make sense this high up on the street. Close the top they say the cream always rises and here it holds to be true. If you’ve been to Miami lately, you’ll know what this means and if you haven’t you’ll have to come and see the magic for yourself. You can find almost anything you want here, but sometimes it’s good to know what you’re getting and when you know what you want, you’ll definitely put The Betsy on your list of places to stay. Have no fear when leaving the comfort of the hotel itself.

When the weather is in the 70° range and breezy, you can’t help but fit in as much outside time as possible and with the beach club style offerings for their guests, the sand and sea call. Not to worry, although you’re well taken care of on the sand with chairs, umbrellas, seat covers and towels, you’re on the beach with access to a great mix of people, so you won’t feel like you are in a bubble, but rather mixing and mingling with those who make Miami so colorful and lively. We did it on two of our days on South Beach. You have to get in as much time on the and as possible, but sometimes there are other options tugging at you.

In this boutique hotel, there are tons of choices, but you can’t go wrong no matter what mood you are in. Opt for the beach club feel or pick from either of the two pools. There’s a rooftop option and a courtyard pool. All three in a day are very doable. This is Miami and the weather is mostly fabulous all year long. Our spur of the moment plan was to spend the morning on the beach, grab a front row seat, lunch back on Ocean Drive and a chill afternoon dip by the pool in the courtyard. Sunset had to be spent swimming in the rooftop pool. Being there as the sun sets is like being in a painting. The coloring of the sky…sublime as the sun settles over the bay, the ambient light over the Atlantic is soft and its reflection appears to dance against the rhythmic pulsations of the waves that are just beyond the tree line. Meanwhile, the pool is bathed in the same pallet.

When it all fades to black, we were more than ready for dinner and drinks at LT Steak & Seafood. Just a little while back in the room to bathe, relax and change into something delicious for dinner, and we were off. Almost as though stuck on repeat, I insisted we take a table back on the veranda; although the main dining room of the restaurant is in the lobby, I couldn’t resist. It has become one of my favorite spots. Sipping on a Bordeaux blend, we began with soy-wasabi tuna tartare on a bed of avocado. LT prides itself on being true to every word in its name. The seafood tops the steaks and the steaks outdo the seafood. It’s a match! Wagyu steak atop crispy rice followed that starter, then came a crab leg; it seemed like an ongoing competition between dishes, each one equally as delectable as the last. Then we got to the black garlic charred short ribs and that took the cake. Heaven falling off a bone is what we nicknamed it…every tender morsel more delicious than the next. As fattening as all of this sounds, I assure you, there’s a gym on property, but really who cares? Gazing up at the moon as it rose over the palm trees, zero calories came to mind as the meal came to an end. A col and cleansing Meyer lemon sorbet was just the thing to do the trick. This couldn’t be the end though. Surely we had enough energy in us for a nightcap, and the Literary Cocktail list was definitely inviting. We certainly did, or found room to make it happen, and then found the energy for a stroll on the beach, and another cocktail before bed.
Back at it the next morning, but it was our last day, so we stayed in and enjoyed ourselves. The lobby has a familiar feel of an elegant beachside drawing room and this early afternoon found us sipping mint tea with lemon and honey as the world passed by and the palm trees swayed easily to the Miami breeze. A baby grand piano is tucked in the corner and today is a cozy hideout for a Golden Retriever as his master sips a cool cocktail at the bar, a few feet away. With the windows touching the ceiling, and potted palms dotting the room, next to oversized settees, the space is a cool oasis from the heat of the beach and the thought of heading home. There’s Nat King Cole playing in the background and the glasses clink over soft laughter and gentle conversations. It’s art in and of itself. This dreamy scene will have to remain captured in my memory for now, as it is time to go. We need to get going but we know we will be back. We are wanderers.

http://www.thebetsyhotel.com/