Anywhere you are in the world, self-care should be a priority. Road warriors to luxury staycations and everything in between, you will love the relaxing and rejuvenating sensations that Sensate provides. We cannot say enough about this riverstone-shaped dynamo. They say that this is where stress gets introduced to science and science wins!
This tiny device cures sleepless nights at home or because of jetlag. Calms nerves, increases resilience. There’s a lot of science behind the comforting hum of this tiny treasure. Get yours and future-proof yourself by building up your stress resilience.
Where does stress show up to the rest of the world? It shows up on our skin. U.sk has you covered with a 1-2-3 step process:
Anywhere you are in the world, self-care should be a priority. Road warriors to luxury staycations and everything in between, you will love the relaxing and rejuvenating sensations that Sensate provides. We cannot say enough about this riverstone-shaped dynamo. They say that this is where stress gets introduced to science and science wins!
This tiny device cures sleepless nights at home or because of jetlag. Calms nerves, increases resilience. There’s a lot of science behind the comforting hum of this tiny treasure. Get yours and future-proof yourself by building up your stress resilience.
The Lake District National Park has long been one of Britain’s most popular tourism destinations. The dramatic landscapes caught the attention of famous artists and writers: from William Wordsworth to Beatrix Potter, and JMW Turner to John Constable, they all found inspiration amongst these rugged mountains, rivers, and lakes. It is estimated that more than 15 million tourists visit the Lake District – which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site – every year, admiring the scenery, hiking, biking, camping, and generally making the most of the great outdoors.
But what fewer visitors realize until they arrive in the Lake District is that this region is also one of England’s greatest culinary destinations. In recent years, a number of imaginative chefs and restaurateurs have invested heavily in the local gastronomic scene, as have the producers who supply them. The Old Stamp House Restaurant in Ambleside has a Michelin star and a three-month waiting list for tables, but you can also dine at its more casual sister restaurant, Kysty.
Chef Simon Rogan opened L’Enclume in Cartmel 20 years ago, and has subsequently expanded his offering to include Rogan & Co, Aulis Cartmel, and Henrock. Heft in High Newton is run by Kevin and Nicola Tickle, whose ancestors have farmed the Cumbrian fells for 400 years. Their love and understanding of their surroundings is reflected in the menu and the ingredients that they choose, from the locally reared meats and wild venison, to foraged alliums and flowers, and beers from the likes of Lakes Brew Co. which is made just a few miles away in Kendal.
For my gastronomic extravaganza, I based myself at Rothay Manor, a Grade II listed country house retreat in Ambleside, at the northern end of Windermere. At more than 10 miles long and a mile wide, Windermere is the largest natural lake in England, and it inspired Arthur Ransom’s Swallows and Amazons novel.
Rothay Manor dates from 1823, when it was built as a private home for a wealthy merchant from Liverpool. It was converted into a boutique hotel in 1936, retaining many of its Regency features, including open fire places, wood paneling, and huge windows looking out onto the gardens. Today, it is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, and it regularly wins awards for both its restaurant and its rooms. Demand for accommodation here is such that in spring 2022 Rothay Manor opened a second building, The Pavilion, adding eight exquisite suites to increase its capacity.
I checked into Aira, a Superior King category room at the front of the main house, which has been sensitively renovated in the past three years. The statement wallpaper in Aira is Melissa White’s “Verdure”, a striking pictorial scene, the design of which was influenced by 17th century painted cloth. Light floods in through the French windows, which open out onto a private balcony and a well positioned table and chairs, the perfect place to sit and enjoy a morning coffee whilst listening to the birds twittering in the gardens mature trees.
Shortly before dinner, I sashayed downstairs for a drink in Rothay Manor’s attractive bar lounge. Photo collages made of vintage and modern photographs of the Lake District decorate the walls, giving the room a strong sense of place. I browsed the extensive drinks list, umming and aahing over what to choose, and had more or less settled on a cocktail made with Assam tea when the barman, Mario, arrived. Boldly and absolutely rightly, he questioned my choice and suggested instead a yuzu martini. For my partner, he proposed an unusual lychee cocktail, but with tweaks so it wouldn’t be too sweet. He had the measure of his audience, understood every element of the drinks, and tailored the recipes so that the two were a perfect match. That demonstrates a rare level of attention to detail, and his recommendations were, I’m glad to report, spot on.
Rothay Manor’s restaurant is under the astute leadership of Head Chef Dan McGeorge, who was crowned “Champion of Champions” in last year’s final of the BBC’s Great British Menu TV series. He looks to Scandinavia and Japan for ideas, but is proud to be from the north of England and sources most of his meat from Cumbria, and fish from the North East coast. The local, seasonal nature of Dan’s food is one of the things which has earned the restaurant its sought after three AA rosette rating.
Whilst the restaurant does have an a la carte menu, the best way to treat yourself to the breadth and depth of Dan’s culinary artistry is to order the tasting menu. This can and should be paired with a wine flight, and there is also a vegetarian option. We nibbled on spoons of red caviar whilst finishing our cocktails and perusing the menu, and could hardly wait to get started.
Rothay’s expert sommelier paired the amuse bouche with Wiston NV, an English sparkling wine from the Wiston Estate in Sussex. Light, crisp, and slightly floral in flavor, it was the ideal accompaniment to the three beautifully prepared morsels which whet the palate for what was to come.
The first of the appetizers was chawanmushi, a savory egg custard traditional in Japan. Embedded in the custard were small, soft florets of cauliflower, and Dan flavored the dish with truffle and, unexpectedly, pickled onion. His ability to combine unusual tastes in marvelous ways was evident as we progressed through the courses, never quite knowing what would come next: the oyster was with kohlrabi and horseradish; cured lardo, sea kale, and elderflower accompanied the monkfish; and the Dexter beef was served with king oyster and salsify – a root with a flavor akin to that of a artichoke heart. Such surprises continued into dessert: I’ve never eaten tofu and strawberries before!
Perhaps the biggest revelation, however, was the cheese trolley. I hardly had room for cheese, but with row after row of lovingly cut slices – around two dozen in total – it was irresistible. The waitress introduced each cheese as if it were a friend; she had a story about each one, and knew exactly where it came from and how it was made. Her passion was so infectious, in fact, that not only did I manage to polish off her recommended selection of five different cheeses, plus crackers, but I noted down the name of the cheesemonger. The Courtyard Dairy is an hour’s drive away from Rothay Manor in Austwick, and I made my own pilgrimage there the following day.
As Key West celebrates its 200th anniversary, the Southernmost Beach Resort invites all those seeking refuge from the last two years to reemerge in style. Having just undergone a $15 million renovation, the six-acre tropical paradise is back and better than ever.
The Florida Keys have always been honorary Caribbean islands that Americans can drive to, and the stress seems to melt away with each passing mile marker toward zero. Arriving on a perfectly sunny afternoon I’m greeted at check-in with a glass of champagne and an array of smiles. For anyone who has yet to experience the southernmost point in the States, the best way to describe the Keys is that they magically blend a laidback Landshark lifestyle with chic and luxurious experiences – all personified by the Southernmost Beach Resort.
I begin with a tour of the property spanning a significant portion of the southernmost tip of the island with its bright blue buildings designed in classic Key West style sitting like dollhouses along the coast. While the resort encompasses nearly 300 guest rooms, the layout of the unique property is deceptively intimate as each building acts as its own entity. With three pools to choose from, each surrounded by lush landscaping and private cabanas, in addition to a tanning pier and two beaches (a rarity on the island), one could spend their entire vacation in this secluded wonderland.
After meeting with the executive team and touring a recently acquired historic bed and breakfast adjacent to the property, I’m treated to an oceanfront dining experience at the resort’s La Mer – Dewey Guesthouse patio. With only a handful of tables, the intimate setting is offered to guests on a limited basis with a specialty menu that changes every month given the ingredients in season. I meet with Chef Alexander who details the four-course menu and wine tasting.
The sun sets, leaving an outdoor chandelier’s light to compete with the moon reflecting off the waves. We begin with a cool beet gazpacho and sauvignon blanc that casts my mood into a proverbial hammock. Next is an heirloom tomato salad with torn burrata and fresh pomegranate paired with a light rosé. A second course of scallops swimming in cauliflower puree and caviar with a glass of chardonnay livens up our conversations, and the following short rib with a pinot noir peaks the night. We end with poached pears, passionfruit sorbet, and a sparkling rosé for good measure.
Passing the pink and purple-lit glowing pool and cresting ocean waves I reach my spacious room. The charming coastal decor and renovated modern amenities make the space a perfect blend of island comfort. A cologne-sized bottle of Hemingway’s Pilar light rum accompanies me out onto the large balcony overlooking the dark ocean. The evening breeze bristles the palm fronds, and eventually an empty glass signals my retirement to the king-sized cloud in the coolness of the room.
The location of the resort is such that it’s secluded enough from the bustling nightlife for a peaceful night’s sleep, yet also close enough to the main drag of Duval Street that a short walk launches one into the fun. Regardless of where you are on the island, the morning stillness will briefly be interrupted by the countless roosters greeting the new day. I walk a block or two down Duval and find as many cute restaurants as there are art galleries. Coffee and crepes at Banana Cafe sound ideal to start the day. The toughest decision one must make in Key West is the battle between sweet or savory. I opt for an ‘inside out’ French Benedict crepe dripping with key lime hollandaise, and a side banana muffin for symmetry’s sake.
Adventure calls on the opposite side of the island, where a five-minute Uber ride drops me at the marina. I board a Fury operated catamaran where the captain tells us that it might be tough to spot dolphins this morning given the windy conditions, but the sun glimmering off the waves as we glide along the coast is all I need to enjoy the day. While the State of Florida boasts the longest tropical coastline in all of America, the turquoise waters off Key West are unrivaled. This far south we have one foot in the Gulf of Mexico, one foot in the Atlantic, with both just a hop away from the Caribbean.
We arrive at our snorkel spot where I slip into fins and slide down the ladder to the welcoming sea. Even with the slightly choppy conditions the visibility is magnificent, and with my first glance below I already spot waving coral and a school of fish dashing below my feet. Snorkeling along the shallow backcountry one never knows what exotic wildlife will put on a show, but each performance is always a treat.
Back on the boat, I dry off in the sun and drift away with a local Cat 5 Key Lime lager. My camera fails to adequately capture the countless shades of aqua shifting under the cloudless sky. We’re not the only ones enjoying the morning as hundreds of sailboats surround the island.
Returning to dry land I stroll down lively Duval Street, from the colorful Sunset Pier to iconic Sloppy Joes, popping into galleries, shops, and tasting Key Lime pie tastings alike. I spend the rest of the afternoon traversing the Southernmost Beach Resort’s three equally stunning yet different pools while keeping my key lime addiction alive with both a key lime margarita and yes, even a key lime colada, swirling bright green and pineapple gold in perfect harmony.
Just in case the weather, waves, and everything key lime isn’t enough to make me forget about the world, I’m treated to a massage at the hotel’s spa midway between the Shores Pool and the beach. With optimal enclosed oceanfront cabanas for spa treatments, one can enjoy the environment in peaceful privacy. The spa’s talented staff massages the salt and stress from my skin until I’m seemingly in a trance, forcing myself to wake up with a dip in the pool.
At the poolside Pineapple Bar, I join one of the many delightful activities: a paint and sip class. With no artistic talent whatsoever, the resort’s resident art instructor, Lance Berry, reminds us of the old Bob Ross adage that there are no mistakes, only happy accidents. After plenty of laughs, mixed acrylics and cocktails, everyone manages to recreate a Key West sunset painting, each as beautiful and different as the real thing.
Tonight, dinner is offsite located at one of the many reimagined historic Victorian homes on Duval, Nine One Five. A modern American menu with internationally inspired influences, this chic coastal restaurant fuses an always-lively atmosphere with fine dining. A perfectly blended espresso martini casts me into the music, followed by a variety of tastes from shishito peppers to artisan cheeses, bacon-wrapped dates, and ahi tuna gravlax. I decide to take a seafood break and go for a deliciously seasoned filet au poivre.
For many the night is only beginning, but after my day of exploration I drift back to the tranquil resort for a good night’s rest. In the morning, the orchestra of roosters and waves mark another day in the tropics. Beachfront yoga unfolds for those who didn’t stay too late on Duval Street last night. My path, however, leads to Blue Heaven’s brunch – a must for any trip to Key West. What was once a hideaway known only to locals now sports a line of tourists out the door. Truly hidden in plain sight, the mostly outdoor affair is blocked off from the world with towers of tropical trees acting not only as walls but also a thick ceiling over the scattered tables.
If Key West’s roosters were able to declare a city hall, Blue Heaven would be it. Maybe they’re silent partners in the restaurant as they oversee the grounds without question, scurrying amongst their human equals to feed on leftovers as nothing goes to waste. Operated in conjunction between the best chefs and roaming roosters, this is the kind of place that can only exist in the keys. A bloody Mary, lobster and grits, and a side of banana bread are all far too tasty to share with the roosters swaggering by. Afterwards, I attempt to walk off the rich brunch, passing the Hemingway Museum and lighthouse. Every bungalow is cuter than the next, each painted in pastels in an American nod to Caribbean life.
Back at the poolside bar, I take turns between lagers and dipping in the water as another sunny afternoon heats up the party. After a long day of accomplishing nothing but relaxation, I return to the marina and this time board a Sebago catamaran for a sunset champagne cruise.
For a perfect ending to a relaxing visit in the islands, cocktails and appetizers meld with the live music to quickly turn the boat of strangers into a fiesta of friends. Known for its dazzling sunsets, this evening in Key West exceeds its reputation. A few days is never enough time, but upon my return I will most certainly be staying again at the Southernmost Beach Resort, all the while dreaming about my next Key Lime pie.
The Cotswolds is one of the greenest and lushest regions of England’s countryside. The rolling hills of Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire are largely rural, with pretty villages built from a distinctive cream colored stone. Country pubs and historic churches dot the landscape, and you’re just as likely to meet a herd of cows as a classic car on the winding backroads.
Hidden in this English idyll not far from the attractive, slightly hippie town of Stroud is Burleigh Court Restaurant & Hotel. This Grade II listed manor house is perched at the top of a valley, and on a sunny summer’s afternoon it must rate as one of the most tranquil views in the county. The chairs on the terrace are carefully positioned to make the most of the location, and there are sheepskins and a fire pit to keep things cosy on cooler evenings when a breeze blows through. Plants are in abundance around the house, not only in the well kept gardens but also in the hedgerows, woodland, and fields adjacent to the property. It was the riches of nature which drew me to Burleigh Court, and on which the hotel’s restaurant is building its name.
Burleigh Court’s Oak Room restaurant is a grand space, wood paneled and with huge windows which drench the room with light. At first glance you would assume it is contemporary with the rest of the house, but as I learned from looking at historic photos dotted on mantelpieces and walls, this extension was added in the mid 20th century. The restaurant was given a makeover last winter and reopened with a new design. Head Chef Shaun Jones has his eye on gaining the UK’s prestigious three AA Rosette status when the Oak Room is next inspected, and if the meals I enjoyed there are anything to go by, it should be an effortless call for the reviewers to make.
Shaun and his team emphasize local ingredients on the menu. Many of the fresh ingredients are grown in the hotel’s kitchen garden or foraged locally by the hotel’s expert forager, Emanuelle Paulson. I’ll tell you more about her in a moment. As far as possible, the remaining ingredients are sourced from within a 35 mile radius of Burleigh Court. Seasonality is very important, as is sustainability: there’s game on the menu in season, and the American crayfish are an invasive species which have been caught by a Cotswolds fisherman.
On my first evening at the hotel, the first thing to catch my eye on the menu was wild garlic gnocchi with wild garlic pesto. Native to Europe and Asia, allium ursinum (to give it its Latin name) is a flowering plant which thrives in moist, shady woodland. From April to June its distinctive fragrance is a common accompaniment to country walks, and the plant – which can be gathered by the handful – makes a delicious dark green soup.
Emanuelle, Burleigh Court’s forager, not only delivers her daily finds to the hotel’s kitchen, but is keen to introduce guests to the joys of foraging. She studied for an undergraduate degree in conservation and ecology, and is fascinated by native plants, in particular edible varieties. Her five-hour Wild Foodie Foraging Experience ($85 per person, including lunch) opened my eyes to the basket of ingredients hidden in plain sight.
We met in the hotel lounge, eyed up the clouds, and concluded that if it rained we’d just get wet. Emanuelle led me down the garden steps to a large clump of plants growing beneath a tree. It was but a stone’s throw from the hotel’s front door. I could already see and smell the wild garlic, pretty with its delicate white flowers. There were dock leaves, too. I recognised these from childhood: they usually grow in the same place as stinging nettles, and it’s an old wives’ tale that rubbing dock on a sting will take the itch away. Emanuelle plucked from the ground three leaves, one wild garlic, one dock, and one I wasn’t familiar with which she called Lords and Ladies. The latter, apparently, is poisonous, but you can tell it apart from the other two by its pattern of veins, one of which runs around the perimeter of the leaf. This was Emanuelle’s simple but effective introduction to safety. The UK has relatively few plants which can kill you, but there are plenty which would make you sick, especially if you ate them raw. The first thing every forager must learn, therefore, is to accurately ID those species which are edible. If in doubt, leave it behind.
From the garden we walked out through Burleigh Court’s gate and down the lane. We stopped to look at the hedgerows, in people’s front gardens, and in the village churchyard. Every plant had a story. There were plenty that I recognised, such as cow parsley and wild strawberries, which were just starting to drop their petals and fruit, ready to be eaten in a few weeks’ time. I eyed up a patch of nettles with scepticism, childhood memories of being stung head to toe still painfully sharp in my mind. But Emanuelle was adamant that nettle leaves can be eaten raw, as well as being made into a tasty tea or soup. She showed me how to pick them without being stung. Folding the leaf lengthways, with the stings on the inside, brushing it between your fingers and then rolling it will break the stings and render it harmless. You can then pop it straight into your mouth. At the same time, Emanuelle also gently corrected my misidentification of what is always assumed was a non-stinging nettle. The leaves on the two plants might look alike, but the stingless one with white flowers is in fact a type of mint, not a nettle at all.
And so the lesson went on, with every fact shared with a smile and important context, which is why I retained so much information. I might now be tempted to steam fresh shoots of hogweed as a vegetable, and my salads will certainly become more imaginative with the addition of dandelion and lime leaves. Bright pink salvia flowers are edible, I learned, and so too are the perennial purple aquilegia which often self seed from gardens onto verges. A scattering of these petals is a gorgeous way to decorate a dish, and the flowers have a wonderful sweetness of their own.
Later in the day in Burleigh Court’s bar, I ordered a cocktail and discovered that it was made with rosemary syrup. The rosemary, of course, was picked in the garden, just yards away from where it was being served. I reflected that the reason this hotel seems such a relaxing place is that it is perfectly in sync with its ecosystem. For the past hundred years or more, the building and its staff have evolved and become part of the surrounding landscape. This takes effort on the part of the human inhabitants, but the relationship is a symbiotic one, and it is the epitome of sustainability, something which many hotels now pay lip service to as it is in fashion, but which few actually fully embrace.
I knew that with this realisation I would sleep well. I had walked in the hills in fresh air, and dined on the bounties which nature had provided. My room, number 2, looked out on the gardens through two huge bay windows, and in a four poster bed, an antique which must be as old as Burleigh Court, I dropped off into a deep and dreamless slumber. www.burleighcourtcotswolds.co.uk
We are just north of Miami Beach and a world away from what we all used to think we knew about Fort Lauderdale. Gone are the days of a destination with a focus on a singular culture. Cultural pluralism has reached the beach here and at Fort Lauderdale Marriott Harbor Beach Resort & Spa we are soaking it all in. Also, we are eating it all, without ever leaving the front door. 3030 Ocean Restaurant is as described, “A unique, creative and passionate combination of flavors…” This beachfront dinner bistro serves stylish American Cuisine seafood and special meats and is illuminated by candlelight. With the sand steps away, and a full moon’s glow streaming in through the ceiling-scraping windows, we delighted in every morsel.
We did tear ourselves away from the eclectic dining choices long enough to delve into a couple’s spa treatment that was just about as scrumptious as our sunset nibbles and sundowners at Sea Level Restaurant and Ocean Bar. I told you, I cannot seem to keep my mind off of how delicious the resort is in every way. The staff get to know your name and how long you’re staying, creating a sort of intimacy that makes this large resort seem extremely cozy. As this is our last day, we’ve decided to take a long sunrise walk on the beach and enjoy a late breakfast at Riva where, again, everyone knows our favorite omelet ingredients and also that this is our last day. It’s nice when the team is made up of Caribbean natives, Canadians, and Europeans…it gives the stay an injection of flair that we are looking forward to revisiting.
Earlier this year, The Times newspaper picked the town of Kirkby Lonsdale as one of the best places to live in the UK. Nestled between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales, two areas of outstanding natural beauty, it certainly occupies a scenic location. The combination of historic architecture, plenty of independent shops and restaurants, and the award-winning Kirkby Lonsdale Brewery makes it an enticing destination for tourists as well as longer-term residents. The opening of Absoluxe Suites in the town is the icing on the proverbial cake.
You will find Absoluxe in a prime position on Main Street, a stone’s throw away from the market square. It is a handsome old town house built of local stone, with large mullion windows and a grand front door. But if the facade shouts “tradition”, inside it is another story: the four designer suites are the epitome of contemporary cool.
In The Oasis, the largest of Absoluxe’s four suites, the decor is inspired by the plants and wildlife of the jungle. Natural wood floors give way to verdant green walls patterned with leaves. Plants cascade down the wall behind the bath, and here and there are tasteful flourishes of animal prints. A hot tub sits on the private terrace, and you can almost imagine that you’re chilling in the rainforest.
Elsewhere in the building, The Parisian is French-themed, The Columbus takes its style cues from the New World, and The Orient is just as decadently exotic as you’d hope. Each suite has a bespoke coffee table book dedicated to its interior design, charting the transformation of this near-derelict property into the luxurious accommodation you enjoy today.
Due to its diminutive size, there’s no in-house restaurant at Absoluxe, but that’s the perfect prompt to get out and explore the excellent local restaurant scene. A short drive away from Kirkby Lonsdale, The Black Bull (www. theblackbullsedbergh.co.uk/food) is the perfect pairing, with its own restoration miracle, stylish interiors, and imaginative, mouth-watering dishes which look as irresistible as they taste.
Year after year, the University of Oxford is ranked as the world’s best university. This venerable institution has certainly had plenty of time to perfect its education: Oxford was already teaching students in 1096, and as such it is the oldest university in the English-speaking world. Famous alumni include historic figures such as the philosophers John Lock and Thomas Hobbes, the economist Adam Smith, and authors Oscar Wilde, Lewis Carroll, and JRR Tolkien. More recently, Bill Clinton, Hugh Grant, Stephen Hawking, and Tony Blair all took their degrees from Oxford.
Most visitors to Oxford will never be part of the tight-knit communities of the university colleges, but the next best thing is to stay in the heart of what is aptly known as the “City of Dreaming Spires”, and to tour the historic buildings with a student. The historic Vanbrugh House Hotel was styled by the architect Sir John Vanbrugh, who was also responsible for nearby Blenheim Palace. It sits opposite the (in)famous Oxford Union, the Oxford University’s debating society.
The hotel’s buildings date from the 17th and 18th centuries and retain many historic features, including wood paneling, painted alcoves, and Delft tiling. The 22 guest rooms combine English traditions with contemporary design and luxuries. Many of them have grand fireplaces with stone mantelpieces, plus huge sash windows overlooking the courtyard garden. Smart TVs, Dyson fan heaters, Nespresso coffee machines, and powerful rain showers bring things bang up to date.
It is the experiences which Vanbrugh offers which set it apart from the competition, however. How would you like to take a personalized walking tour through the university, led by Oxford graduate Iain Stephenson and his fellow students? In the summer months it is also possible to have a picnic breakfast whilst exploring Oxford’s iconic sites from the water. Vanbrugh’s chauffeured punt tour is not only romantic but also enables you to enjoy one of Oxford’s quirkiest activities, without the risk of falling in!
For more than 1,500 years, travelers have made their way to Khiva. This Silk Road city in the western part of what is now Uzbekistan remains one of the jewels of Central Asia. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for its historic walled city, the Ichan Qala. Medieval visitors would have slept with their animals and goods in caravanserais, or perhaps if they were wealthy and influential enough, found a welcome at the court of the Khan. Today, there are plenty of mid-range hotels and even a few boutique properties in heritage buildings, but it was not until late in 2021 that the doors of Khiva’s first 5* hotel opened, ushering in a new era of luxury.
Hotel Farovon is remarkable not least because of the speed in which it was constructed: it took just seven months from breaking ground to hosting the very first guest. Her impending arrival certainly piled on the pressure, for this VIP guest was none other than Audrey Azoulay, Director General of UNESCO.
The 106-room hotel is in a convenient location around five minutes’ drive from the Ichan Qala. Inside the palatial exterior, which has architectural influences from Khiva’s madrassas and other historic monuments, is a meticulously designed hotel where everything has been finished with a careful eye for detail. There is a strong sense of place, from the Islamic design of the courtyard garden, to the geometric motifs of the metalwork, and the Middle Eastern-style light fittings in many of the public areas and suites.
There are four restaurants and bars at Farovon, reflecting the multicultural influences which spread along the Silk Road. Whilst Khiva, the hotel’s main restaurant, introduces guests to Uzbekistan’s natural cuisine, they can also have a taste of the Mediterranean in Milan, or feast on pan-Asian dishes in Tokyo. The Istanbul lobby bar serves strong Turkish coffee and pastries, the perfect treat after a day filled with inspiring sightseeing amongst the mosques, madrassas, minarets, and palaces of the Ichan Qala.
Entering the 90 acres of private parkland at Hartwell House in rural Buckinghamshire, an hour outside London, it feels like the setting for a Jane Austen novel. The impressive stately home combines Jacobean and Georgian features; the garden was designed in the style of famed 18th-century landscape architect Capability Brown; and follies such as a gothic tower, a stone temple, and a rustic arch are dotted around the grounds. Statues of Hercules, Jupiter and Juno, and Frederick, Prince of Wales stand guard. Half close your eyes and you will be able to imagine Mr Darcy or a similarly handsome romantic hero riding at full speed along the mile-long Lime Avenue, wondering if he has an urgent rendezvous at the estate’s St. Mary’s Church, or is simply late for dinner.
Hartwell House is a property with incomparable history. Almost a thousand years ago it was recorded in the Doomsday Book as the home of William Peveral, son of William the Conqueror. Hartwell was the seat of John, King of England (1166-1216), and of the Lee family, the English ancestors of the Confederate General Robert E Lee. Sir William Young, the future Governor of Tobago, lived here, and so too did Ernest Cook, the heir of the Victorian travel tycoon Thomas Cook. But perhaps the most surprising resident of all was King Louis XVIII of France, who lived at Hartwell whilst in exile from 1809-1814. He was accompanied by a hundred courtiers and plenty of other displaced European aristocrats, including the Duchess D’Angouleme, the daughter of Marie Antoinette; Gustavus IV, the exiled King of Sweden; and Compte d’Artois, the future King Charles X of France. During their stay they turned the house’s sun trap of a roof terrace into a miniature farm, rearing rabbits and birds and planting pots of vegetables and herbs.
Between 1987 and 1992, Hartwell House was conserved and converted by Historic House Hotels. Work was slow but painstakingly done. The National Trust, a national institution as beloved as the BBC, accepted a protective covenant over the house, and was then given it along with Historic House Hotels’ two other properties, Bodysgallen in North Wales and Middlethorpe Hall in York, in 2008. It was the biggest single gift to the National Trust since World War 2. Hartwell House is therefore now run as a not-for-profit business, and the revenue generated by the hotel, restaurant, and spa is reinvested in the preservation of the house and the National Trust’s other charitable activities. It is a perfect example of restorative tourism, of tourism doing good.
I arrived at Hartwell House in the late afternoon and was greeted at the door by House Manager Adam Treloar. I got the sense that it was not unlike the reception I would have received by the house’s butler when this was a private home. The main entrance is into the Great Hall, where a fire was roaring in the grate and a family group sat taking tea in front of the fireplace. I have been a National Trust member for as long as I can remember, and often toured their houses wishing I could stay. Now that dream was coming true.
Normally I would have checked in and lazed a while in my room, but today Hartwell’s spa was calling. Situated about 100 yards to the side of the main house, the spa is in a complex of new and old buildings which includes the 18th-century coach house, The Old Dairy, and an orangery designed in the style of Sir John Soane.
The heart of the spa is the swimming pool, which reminds me very much of a Roman bath. The high ceiling, deep red walls, archways, and statuary create a dramatic environment in which to swim. The spa is open to hotel residents and spa members only, so there were only a couple of people in the pool. I watched them with admiration as I sunk neck-deep into the vigorously bubbling jacuzzi. I have to be honest: I was here to relax, not exercise.
I might have dozed off in the jacuzzi, or the steam room next door, but therapist Christine summoned me from my stupor and led me upstairs to the treatment rooms. She suggested a Swedish back, neck, and shoulder massage, and after a long week hunched over my desk, it was sublime. Lying on the heated blanket, in semi-darkness and with soft music playing, I drifted in and out of consciousness. Christine worked her hands firmly and methodically across my body, noting almost before I could feel it where the knots and other sensitive points were. The Aromatherapy Associates products she used included lavender oil and other natural plant extracts, a subtle nod to the abundance of flowers and fruits grown at Hartwell by Head Gardener Richard Jones and his team.
The Hartwell Spa has its own cafe and bar in the gallery overlooking the pool, but as it was by now early evening, I returned to the main house. Guests typically assemble in one of the exquisitely decorated public rooms before dinner. The Morning Room and the Library are decorated in Rococo style, and the library’s priceless antique books are protected with some of the finest surviving gilt-brass wirework in the country. A magnificent portrait of Lady Elizabeth Harcourt by Joshua Reynolds, the first President of the Academy of Arts, hangs in pride of place above the mantelpiece. I toasted my good fortune in being here with a glass of English sparkling wine from Dinton Wines in the nearby Chilterns.
Previous
Next
Dinner was served in Hartwell’s Soane Dining Room, an elegant space which was inspired by a room at 11 Downing Street, the official residence of the Chancellor of the Exchequer. Head Chef Daniel Richardson has received numerous accolades for his cooking, including three Rosettes, the award given by the AA to recognise outstanding restaurants. I chose three courses which showcases local ingredients and traditional British cooking: pig’s head croquette with bacon jam, onion and cumin puree, pickled onion, and black pudding; roasted sirloin of Oxfordshire beef with horseradish dauphinoise potatoes, a beef cheek and oyster croquette, kale, onion puree, and port jus; and, lastly, a decadent salted caramel tart with yuzu sorbet. If King Louis XVIII dined half as well as I did during his stay at Hartwell, he was a very fortunate man indeed.
For nearly 100 years, The Esplanade Hotel has opened its doors to the most glamorous society figures. Built in 1925 to accommodate wealthy passengers traveling between Paris, Venice, and Istanbul on the Orient Express, it is an architectural masterpiece of the Belle Epoque and one of the grandest hotels not only in the Balkans but in all of Europe.
The Esplanade’s history remains central to its identity today, and rightly so. In the 1920s, the hotel was groundbreaking, with all the latest mod cons: hot and cold running water, more than 100 bathrooms, and a telephone in every room! The magnificent ballroom with its columns and sculptures dazzled guests, many of whom came to Zagreb to attend the hotel’s extravagant balls and schmooze with fashionable friends. Silent movie stars checked in, their fans besieging the hotel; the royal families of Spain, Nepal, and Egypt holidayed here; and socialites and writers earned the property a certain notoriety: an Italian count oversaw what is thought to be Croatia’s very first striptease! The Esplanade’s guest book reads like a Who’s Who of the 20th century. A swift glance reveals the names of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Vivien Leigh and Lawrence Olivier, Dizzy Gillespie and Louis Armstrong, Richard Nixon and Henry Kissinger, Queen Elizabeth II, Pierce Brosnan, Paulo Coelho… the list goes on and on.
I checked into The Esplanade on a cold February day, and am thrilled to say that the hotel retains every ounce of its original glory and sophistication. Its location in the center of Zagreb, Croatia’s capital, ensures the hotel remains the heart of the city’s social scene. Recent renovations under the guidance of London-based architectural design company MKV Design have balanced the building’s Art Deco and Neoclassical features with the demands of 21st century guests; the modern elements are in keeping, delivered with a luxurious flair which epitomizes the hotel’s mission to create a space for “Indulgent and inspirational living”.
Any stay at The Esplanade should begin with a drink (or maybe several) at The Esplanade 1925, the hotel’s stylish lounge and cocktail bar. You will notice in the Art Deco interior that there is a subtle nod to the east, the styling of the Orient Express, and the famous cities along its route. The bar is run by Croatia’s top mixologists: competition is rife, so the mixing is always a spectacle and the bartenders are constantly experimenting with creating and refining their recipes. I sat at the bar transfixed, but on a warm summer’s evening, I can imagine starting here and then spilling out onto the terrace.
All the international favorites you would expect appear on The Esplanade 1925’s cocktail menu, but I wanted something unique. On the Orient Express Cocktails list, every drink takes its name and inspiration from a stop on the railway line. I started local with the Zagreb, which is flavored with brandy, honey liqueur, and orange; then moved onto Athens, which was made with pastis, triple sec, and grapefruit. Much as I’d have loved to have a cocktail for every station, I don’t have that kind of capacity for alcohol anymore, so I finished my drinkable journey with London, a refreshing combination of gin, peach liquor, orange, and, surprisingly, Sprite.
Executive Chef Ana Grgic will prepare you snacks to enjoy in the bar, but in my mind that would do a disservice to her cooking. A fine artist, she deserves the full attention of all your senses, not least your palate.
Ana joined The Esplanade in 2012, the first woman in the hotel’s history to take on the role of Executive Chef. She honed her skills in Michelin-starred restaurants in Brussels and Berlin, and has cooked for the likes of Prince Albert of Monaco, Joe Biden and Hilary Clinton, and Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall. Ana was a jury member on Croatia’s Celebrity MasterChef TV show, and is an ambassador for the World Wildlife Fund’s Fish Forward project.
Ana’s showroom for her talents is The Esplanade’s Zinfandel’s Restaurant, widely regarded to be the best restaurant in Zagreb. Zinfandel’s takes its name from the grape variety, which was exported from Croatia’s Dalmatia region to the USA in the early 19th century, and has since become a staple of any wine cellar. The wine list is a celebration of the very best Croatian wines, plus a few famous names from further afield, but my recommendation to you is to drink what’s local. If you are dining with friends, treat yourself to a bottle of the affordably priced Amfora Brut Nature (€81) whilst you browse the food menu, and then ask the sommelier for the perfect wine pairings. There are some excellent options by the glass, most of which are priced between €6-7.
The elegant, contemporary dining space that is Zinfandel’s overlooks the Oleander Terrace, and beyond that the impressive Austro-Hungarian architecture of downtown Zagreb. You will want to dress up to fit in, but it is by no means ostentatious. Ana’s carefully curated menu exemplifies the variety and quality of Croatian cuisine, which whilst not well-known in the USA deserves to be recognized as one of Europe’s best-kept culinary secrets.
In a natural reflection of Croatia’s geography, the extensive coastline and fertile inland areas both influence what’s served on your plate. The first of our mouthwatering starters was noodles with truffle, goat butter, and goat’s cheese, and it tasted so fresh and wholesome that I wondered if the in question had gambled straight from the field into the hotel’s kitchen to be milked. The seafood options – Adriatic scampi and roasted scallops amongst them – could only have been caught a few hours before; they must have come straight here from the boat.
For the main courses, we opted for two contrasting dishes, each of which was divine. The American striploin steak might sound like an odd choice to make so far from home, but I assure you that you have never tasted one like this. Seared to perfection, it was served with an accompaniment of salted beetroot, pine nuts and pine oil, and pungent black garlic. The combination of flavors was a revelation.
My slightly lighter option was wild sea bass served with sea bass veloute, black quinoa, and kale. Sea bass is plentiful in the Adriatic Sea, off the coast of Croatia, and it is regarded as the specialty of the Dalmatia region. The kale had just the right hint of bitterness, and at the sommelier’s suggestion, I paired the dish with a glass of Malvazija white wine.
There were four desserts on the menu, and honestly, I could have chosen blind: I have no doubt that any one of them would have been superb. It was the mille-feuille that pipped the others to the post, though, because it intrigued me. This popular French patisserie (it’s often called the Napoleon) is usually made with flaky layers of pastry and custard. I had a feeling that Ana and her colleagues would give the recipe a twist, however, and certainly, they did.
Firstly, the pastry was made with buckwheat, which gave it a slightly nuttier taste. Instead of custard there was peanut cream and above that a tonka bean foam. It was topped with caramelized quinces, which had a slightly citrusy tang. I am hard-pressed to remember when I last enjoyed a meal so much.
I sat for a while after my meal, chatting and soaking up the atmosphere in Zinfandel’s. Glancing around, I felt like an extra on a Hollywood film set, perhaps making one of those golden movies of the 1940s or ‘50s. That sense stayed with me as I left the restaurant, walked through the public areas of the hotel, and rode the elevator up to my room. In every space, the decor was elegant, glamorous, but somehow always on the right side of good taste, never too over the top. I slept incredibly well that night, lying back on the goose-down pillows and dreaming of all those historic figures I might have met here during The Espanade’s Golden Age.
