Arriving at JA Mar Hall Golf & Spa Resort, a magnificent five-star Scottish country estate on the banks of the River Clyde, is to immerse yourself immediately in luxury. The drive is lined with manicured lawns and mature, well-tended trees, and the only thing separating you from the riverbank is the resort’s 18-hole golf course. A cool, fresh breeze blows off the river, and so by the time you exit the car and cross the threshold of the hotel, a Gothic baronial mansion, your body and mind are already starting to relax.
The 240-acre estate has a long history. The present house was a dream conjured up by Major General Robert Walter Stuart, the 11th Lord Blantyre, but in an unfortunate twist of fate, he was accidentally shot and killed before it was completed. His wife, Frances, spent £50,000 – around $10 million today – bringing to life the design of Sir Robert Smirke, the famed Victorian architect who was also responsible for the British Museum’s main building. The stone was quarried locally, but the oak interior was imported from Quebec. And the house soon became the social hub of Renfrewshire, hosting high society from across Scotland and beyond once it was finished in 1845.
JA Mar Hall wears its rich history proudly. The estate recently went through a $27 million refurbishment, and it would have been easy to erase the historical character of the place. But luckily, the owners understood the importance of it and have made many of the features part of the hotel’s story. You will notice, for example, that the main house looks to be covered in black soot. It is as if a fire had broken out. But the truth is altogether more interesting.
During the Second World War, there were shipyards along the River Clyde that built warships for the British Navy.
Mar Hall was directly in the flight path of the Nazi bombers targeting the shipyards and attempting to destroy them. To camouflage and protect the house, it was blackened with soot so that during the night when the curtains were drawn, the building would disappear into the dark. It worked, and Mar Hall survived the war intact.
Today, JA Mar Hall offers 74 bedrooms and suites set across the main house and newer buildings around the estate, so guests can choose between baronial opulence and peaceful seclusion. For the ultimate luxury stay, book the Grand Suite. It is more than 1,600 sq ft with a regal king-size four-poster bed and ample space for a family; sweeping views of the gardens and the Clyde; and even a Bentley grand piano in case musical inspiration strikes during your stay. Daylight floods in through the tall sash windows, and you can relax in velvet-upholstered armchairs whilst reading or enjoying a pot of English Breakfast tea.
Many guests come to JA Mar Hall to play a round or three of golf in an idyllic setting, but the health and wellness experience extends well beyond the green. There is a tranquil indoor pool lined with palms and loungers, hot tubs for a more indulgent dip, and a well-equipped fitness center, but it was the premium spa which was calling my name.
Scotland is well known for its native plants, so I was delighted to see that the JA Mar Hall Spa has a partnership with ishga, an award-winning Scottish skincare brand which takes its name from the Gaelic word for water. Their organic products are made with four different kinds of organic seaweed that they harvest by hand in the Hebrides. Hebridean seaweed is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and bioactive minerals, so it might well be the most beneficial product you ever spread on your face. Or back.
My first experience of the JA Mar Hall Spa was a 55-minute-long full-body treatment which combined aromatherapy, lymphatic drainage, and traditional Swedish massage. The masseuse began with a short consultation to identify any muscle tension and focus areas, tailoring the massage exactly to my needs on the day. The ishga products have the faintest scent of botanicals and the sea, their natural oils balanced perfectly with the seaweed. And in the treatment, the speed of life seems to slow as muscle by muscle you unwind. Peace of mind follows on.
I rarely give much consideration to my back, but sitting over a laptop most days takes its toll, and it is an infamously difficult area to cleanse and exfoliate on your own! JA Mar Hall Spa’s marine back treatment gives your back the attention it deserves, starting with a cleanse, toner, and exfoliation to reinvigorate the skin and make it glow with health. ishga’s heated seaweed clay mask is collagen-boosting and deeply nourishing, and having it applied is a revelation. You’ll wonder why you have never had one before!
I left the spa feeling relaxed but also reinvigorated. And hungry. Who knew that being massaged could work up such an appetite? Sip a cocktail as I did in the hotel’s Slàinte bar, where the wood-panelled interior, large stone fireplace, and marble and brass bar evoke a bygone age. The menu is rooted in JA Mar Hall’s 180-year traditions, and the 180 cocktail celebrates that heritage. It’s a sweet and sour delight for your palate, mixed with the Macallan 12yr Double Cask, Aelder Ana, Sūpāsawā, ginger ale, and chocolate bitters. Move on then to The Dining Room, where both the decor and the cuisine reflect elegant Scottish craftsmanship. The scallops are caught in Orkney, the smoked salmon is cured in whisky, and the venison comes from Newtonmore in the Scottish Highlands. Every mouthful is a succulent taste of Scotland.
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