I’m on my way to the hottest European destination of 2017 and possibly of this generation. Everywhere you look someone is posting something about this country.  If you’ve come across any of these posts or pictures of this brilliant and diverse country, you’ll agree with my next sentiment. There was no way I was going to let a year slip by without returning to Portugal.  My first trip was a quick four day visit to the city of Lisbon and a few of those nights were spent in what I like to refer to as a dream; the town of Sintra. This town sits in the foothills of the Sintra Mountains and can best be described as a dream because it is exactly that. It’s made up of palaces and castles and summer homes of royal families that are quintessentially the backdrop of every fairytale.  

As dreamy as that part of the country is, this time around, I was heading south to the Algarve.  I had yet to explore or experience this part of Portugal and had heard only good things about it.  People told me it was full of tourists and nothing more than a collection of beach towns. I think those folks only scratched the surface and saw what they wanted to see.  This region is rich in history, gastronomy, warmth and captivating views.  To call it a collection of beach towns would be considered nothing short of shortsighted.  I even feel a little silly getting so excited about sharing it because it’s not new.  It’s not at all a find that has been brought current to compete with other fun and sun destinations, and that’s exactly why I fell in love with it.  It is authentic in its presentation of itself.  The Algarve shares with you exactly what it is without need to boast or pretend it is something that it is not. Whitewashed fishing villages give way to unyielding cliffs that soften into ancient towns where vintage is the order of the day and has been for centuries.  This southernmost region of Portugal whose central coast lies between the towns of Faro and Lagos but stretches from west of Tavira to the easternmost point in Sagres, with beat-skipping moments for your heart at almost every turn.  

Starting off in the most obvious of places, the undeniably impressive coastline, I began to take in the grandeur of yet another of Portugal’s treasures and it was at that moment I realized that I was barely able to comprehend the humility of the Portuguese.  With sea-views this captivating, the calling of the sea so inescapable, it is no wonder Portuguese explorers of the Elizabethan Era went off to discover so much of the new world.  The riches they had at home though.  Those, beyond what treasures they returned with, were what had me in a state of near bewilderment as to how the remained so humble.  This is a great country! Couple that fact with its people being warm, welcoming and hospitable to travelers from all corners of the world and you’ve found an almost magical formula.  I know it is getting its fair share of attention these days, but don’t be alarmed when I tell you, it’s been quite the hub of activity here on the Iberian Peninsula for centuries.

Today it seems more than venturing out and exploring new worlds, the world is coming to Portugal. The usual souvenirs are to be found everywhere, from cork to cocks perched on top of corks, to cans of sardines, yes sardines are oft times sold in gift shops here, they are that prevalent a part of the Portuguese society. Knowing this, I actually popped in for a visit to a museum dedicated to the hard work of preparing and canning sardines—The Museu de Portimão.  This place is more interesting than you might expect. Be prepared to learn everything about how the process worked and you’ll gain a new understanding and appreciation for the next can of sardines you open.

Opening myself a little more to this area, I spent an afternoon in Lagos on Segway.  I never knew how much fun people were having touring ties and towns on these things.  I saw the entire town without breaking a sweat and far more quickly than I could have on foot. The “cobblestoned” streets, paved with Portuguese pavement and not cobble, was even more captivating from just a couple of feet above as I glided over the decorative stones on my machine for the day. I should have felt guilt not walking, after indulging in the cities famous marzipan cakes in the shape of a fish no less. Not only did I not feel guilty, but was driven immediately to Bela Vista hotel & Spa, a Relais & Chateaux property, where I gleefully had a four-hour lunch that consisted of nine courses. The food and service were both stellar and I can see why they are aiming for a Michelin Star this year. Lunch at the hotel’s restaurant, Vista was more than any culinary explorer could hope for and one I was most certainly not expecting. Life is good in the Algarve.  After such a nice long lunch, with each course paired with wines, I did manage to squeeze in a little walking. I got to explore this intimate hotel. My favorite part is the original mansion from 1918, where I was spoiled for choice but the Junior Suite captured my imagination. This is a uniquely positioned and designed hotel, no two ways about that fact.  Perched on the edge of a cliff with stately architecture and refined interiors, I could wander these grounds all afternoon and never get bored. I like looking out to sea from the lap of luxury and making up tales with friends.  We pretend as though we are living in the previous century, but with all the current five-star services and amenities Bela Vista offers. Imagining scenarios about the sea is always fun, but now we have pools and our choice of either indoor and outdoor. Although its history surrounds you and being caught up in daydreams is easy, the luxurious reality here seems is well worth your attention.  

After a while, I knew the time for me to explore and check-in to another hotel had come. It was time for me to head to Vila Vita Parc. The transportation took me from 1918 to present day in no time. This resort was sprawling and intriguing.  It was home to Ocean, a 2 Michelin Star restaurant, only steps away from my suite.  How appropriate is that for me? Although I had not intended to gastronomically gallivant my way through the Algarve, it seemed impossible to avoid excellent food and service.  At Vila Vita, this proved to be exceptionally challenging.  The 10 restaurants at the resort left little room for me to even think about leaving to grab something “different” to eat. They offer casual beachside dining, rustic Portuguese that leaves your mouth watering and even Japanese.  The gastro experience here was far from an afterthought, it appears to be at the center of every guest’s stay.  In addition to the meals, there’s a wine cave that I had the pleasure of dining in.  Surrounded by over 11,000 bottles of wine, we had candles lit and a sommelier to provide us with expert knowledge of each wine we enjoyed.  Our taste buds were quite at home here and barely wanted to wake up the next morning to head out for an extreme off-road Jeep safari adventure. Extremo Ambiente took us on the ride of a lifetime.  We hit dirt roads and small villages, went through fields and climbed mountains.  The journey was far more adrenaline-pumping than any old tour around town.  I was happy I went but started to miss my suite back at Vila Vita, and a long warm bath before my next meal was in order. That Jeep safari left me a little dusty.

Over the next few days, I think the need for speed and adrenaline rushes somehow increased.  Had Extremo Ambiente awakened something in me?  I dare say they had. By the time we arrived at our next resort, Epic Sana Algarve, I’d concocted an itinerary for the next day that I hoped the concierge could pull off for me. I needed some action, so as soon as we were checked in, I sauntered over to the concierge and whispered my wishes in his ear and with a smile he said, “It will be my pleasure.” Those are really the only words I needed to hear.  Knowing I had left my desires in very capable hands, we trotted off to discover the resort. From our suite’s balcony I could see the expansive lawns, the sea and a tree that stood out from all the rest.  This tree appeared to have inorganic red and white things springing from its branches.  Curiosity got the best of me and off we set to find said tree.  When we found it, there they were, red and white wooden hearts with names and dates written on them.  This was the Love Tree and we watched as a couple made themselves a part of it by getting their own heart  and having it paced on a limb alongside all the other lover’s hearts. Everything here is somewhat epic, I must say.  After seeing that we ended up at the trendy Bluum Bar. This was a great evening of laughs and sipping cocktails.  Before returning to our room, we passed by the concierge who knew I wanted to keep tomorrow’s activities a secret, so he handed me a note that simply said all had been taken care of and to meet in the lobby at 10 am.

Tomorrow couldn’t come fast enough for me. Keeping secrets is not a strength, it’s more of a muscle I’ve neglected to exercise for some time. Somehow, I made it.  Breakfast was a quick trip downstairs and then off we went.  Even I couldn’t believe it when we reached the bootm of the hotel’s driveway just in time to see a helicopter arrive.  It was ours.  We hopped in and off we went to race cars on a professional track.  Getting there was half the fun.  As the helicopter buzzed the coast, we passed other hotels we visited and saw the expansive beaches and lighthouses below.  This was more than an experience.  This memory was going to last a lifetime.  We landed on the track of Autódromo Internacional Algarve where adrenaline had already been pumping now to learn how to race actual racecars, no tracks, no gimmicks, just real racing techniques.  What a day? Everything was perfectly executed and that is thanks in no small part to Epic Sana for arranging all the details.  There’s no wonder as to why their name is Epic.

Coming down from that experience, after another lovely helicopter ride back to the hotel, was in order.  We spent the next few days strolling through towns, shopping at markets, took a cooking class with Cataplana Algarve at Tertulia restaurant in the historic center of Faro. This trip had everything we could ask for. We love Portugal and adore the Portuguese hospitality and service.  The authenticity and generosity of spirit makes Portugal a place I will always love and will never skip again.  It is now a built-in part of every European trip we take. Thank you…obrigada.

One Island
One family
One Restaurant

Deserted island experiences usually don’t come with an over-the-top restaurant where fresh is an understatement.

Sat directly on the edge of the island where the currents meet and collide…some may say its unfair, a bit like shooting fish in a barrel as the catch is spawned nearby in the shallows and then head out to via a deep channel, only yards away from the kitchen. Sounds like a winning location to us, maybe not to the sea life, but tasty nonetheless. The island is a protected area, so infrastructure is nonexistent, meaning the restaurant which can be the only “inhabitant”, had to produce its own energy and make its own drinking water, among other eco-challenges. They’ve done a marvelous job of fitting in in an unobtrusive way, while standing out and grabbing the attention of every taste bud lucky enough to wander in.

Reaching the island is the first step in getting lost for the day and where the adventure begins. Accessible only by arrival from the sea, you can catch a ferry or take a speedboat to get to Estaminé. Be certain to watch the shoreline if you come over during high tide, you’ll be gobsmacked to see the drastic drop in the water level on your way home.

The family began the restaurant here as a shack. Their condition was such that nothing could have been predicted whether they would be able to come on par with modern restaurants by incorporating the right kind of kitchen equipment (such as tomato mills, stainless steel work tables, and electric glass polisher, to name a few) and investing in the interiors to convert the shack into a restaurant. Esteminé, however, has flourished and become a gorgeous restaurant built to blend in with the natural landscape of this windswept island. We hear that from above it resembles a crab. Now that is really trying to blend in to your surroundings. Experiencing the island is a necessity. The fresh caught fish could hardly be fresher as it’s all from just off the shores of the island. The nutrient rich environment of the unique tidal shifts produces a tasty catch. The lagoon estuary feeds directly into the roiling currents of the Atlantic. Being able to see the two bodies of water come together (on your plate) makes every bite even more delectable. The service is exceptionally prompt, hospitable and genuinely welcoming. We catch ourselves expressing this same sentiment repeatedly here in Portugal.

• Insiders tip:

Order the “Beach” shrimp. We won’t ruin the experience for you, but it’s the most unique preparation of shrimp we have ever experienced and the taste is unbeatable.

Stroll around the island after lunch and at the very least one bottle of wine and enjoy everything from sand dunes to crashing waves. There’s a calm lagoon side and an entire island to explore, sometimes it’s difficult to find anyone else for quite a while, so let your imagination be your guide.

www.estamine.deserta.pt

72 Hours in Vail, Colorado at The Sonnenalp Hotel

While most people go to Vail for the epic ski conditions, the locals will tell you that they came for the winter and stayed for the summer.  In the summer months, with the flowers in bloom and warmer weather you can enjoy the beautiful fresh air, scenic vistas and abundance of watersports and golf courses.  With 72 hours in the Vail Valley here is a perfect itinerary.

Day 1

​8:00 am-9:00 am:  Start your day off with a bountiful European style buffet at Ludwig’s. Breakfast is served on the beautiful glass enclosed terrace surrounded by Colorado’s Rocky Mountains.

9:00 am-9:30 am: Take a moment to sit back and relax by Sonnenalp’s Tranquility Pool and enjoy Vail’s iconic views and crisp mountain air.

10:00 am-12:00 pm: ​Explore the town and shop through Vail Village enjoying favorites such as Valbruna and Gorsuch.

12:00 pm-1:00 pm: ​Bring your appetite to Vail’s landmark spot, Pepi’s Restaurant, which has been opened for over 50 years. This vintage eatery serves up Old World Classics as well as a variety of unique meats such as boar, elk, venison and caribou, all carved tableside for those looking to enjoy some local delicacies.

1:00 pm-3:00 pm: Treat yourself at one of Vail’s top rated spas- Sonnenalp Spa.  Rejuvenate your mind and body with an array of unique treatment options. You can try the Bavarian Body Polish, which incorporates a full body scrub and a relaxing moisturizing treatment or the 80-minute Detoxifying Mud Wrap. Locals love to freshen it up with a Vitamin C Fresh Peel that leaves your skin immediately softer and smoother with noticeable improvements in skin tone and texture.

​​4:00 pm-5:00 pm: Relax in your luxury suite, recently renovated and boasting unique amenities including oversized bathrooms, Bavarian decor and lovely fireplaces.

​5:00 pm-7:00 pm:  Wine and dine on European cuisine in a classic-Swiss style setting at the Swiss Chalet, offering guests the ultimate alpine dining experience. Traditional

Käse Spätzle (homemade Swiss dumpling topped with cheese and crispy onions) and delicious fondues ​all make your ​dining experience quite delectable. Save room for freshly made desserts like their Austrian apple strudel and chocolate fondue.

7:00 pm-9:00 pm: ​End your night at ​the King’s Club offering nightly live entertainment.  Enjoy a specialty drink from the top shelf selection, a glass of wine or German beer while you relax by the fireplace and listen to great music from local musicians.

Day 2 ​

8:30 am-9:30 am: Begin the day with something sweet at Big Bear Bistro like a nutella and banana crepe or enjoy something savory instead. Try the delicious wild-caught, smoked sockeye salmon served freshly on a toasted bagel.

​9:30 am-1:00 pm: Take advantage of Vail’s summertime activities by exploring the mountain on foot. Take a hiking tour with Sonnenalp’s trusted guides who have complete intimate access to some of the most beautiful trails in the Vail Valley.

12:00 pm-1:00 pm: Round-up friends and family and head over to Bully Ranch for a fun casual, western-style lunch. The Southwestern and American menu includes their signature chicken wings and famous Bully Burgers. Take a seat outside and enjoy a cold beer. Dogs are invited too.

1:00 pm-4:00 pm: Take a tour of the Rockies via horseback with one of Sonnenalp’s guided adventure tour guides. With miles of trails and flowers in bloom, this epic trail ride will be a beautiful way to see the scenery.

4:00 pm-6:00 pm: Unwind from the day and begin your evening with a specialty cocktail by the fire at the Kings Club.

6:00 pm-8:00 pm: Dinner at Mountain Standard is a must do on every trip to Vail and a definite local favorite. Enjoy some shrimp and grits and rocky mountain trout at this gastropub boasting a lively crowd and open kitchen.

8:00 pm: Vail Ale House has over twenty local beers on tap. Hop on over and enjoy the evening as live DJ’s spin the night away.

Day 3:

8:00 am-9:00 am: Fuel up on a mean cup of coffee and get down on some Southern style food such as Alpenrose’s biscuit and gravy dish – complete with their famous house-made sausage gravy.

9:00 am-12:00 pm: Take some “tee” time at Sonnenalp Club’s 7,100-yard championship links style course.  It sits in the sun drenched valley of Edwards, 16 miles west of Vail Village. Or, if golf isn’t quite your thing – try Sonnenalp’s morning stand up paddle-boarding class followed by a riverside lunch.

2:00 pm-3:00 pm: Exercise your creativity with a poolside pottery class. Sonnenalp offers this unique opportunity to paint outdoors and decorate your own personalized souvenir to take home. Selections include but not limited to picture frames, flower pots or coffee mugs.

3:00 pm-4:00 pm: Need a boost of energy? Sonnenalp’s Oxygen Bar is the perfect fix. Choose scents like eucalyptus, lavender, peppermint, wintergreen and lemongrass. The oxygen treatment also aids in symptoms related to altitude sickness including: shortness of breath, lightheadedness, dizziness, headaches, fatigue, weakness, and nausea.

5:00 pm-7:00pm: Treat yourself to something fancy this evening and take the gondola ride up to Game Creek.  You’ll be treated to a private multi-course tasting menu featuring unique and tasty international fare such as lamb tartare, rabbit with purple potatoes and venison with red onion jam.

7:00 pm: Afterwards, have a glass or two at Root and Flower from their extensive list of wine-by-the-glass selections or signature craft cocktails.

If you can plan your visit accordingly, The Sonnenalp Hotel is hosting two wellness retreats this fall. The 2017 Retreat Schedule includes:

IGNTD Women, September 28-October 1, 2017

With expert leaders, Sophie Jaffe and Caley Alyssa, find the clarity to realize your dreams with The IGNTD Women Retreat. This program will focus on removing obstacles standing in the way of reaching your full potential. This transformational weekend will be further enhanced with group meditations, yoga practices, and a Philosophie Mama Superfood workshop.

IGNTD Couples Retreat, November 16-19, 2017

Led by husband and wife team, Adi Jaffe, PH.D and Sophie, this retreat focuses on utilizing expertise of physical and mental health, nutrition, exercise, neuroscience and self-actualization to positively impact individual’s relationships, career, and well-being. Using varied approaches such as cognitive behavioral education, mindfulness techniques and the latest in biofeedback and neurofeedback, Dr. Jaffe is known for changing lives. Itinerary highlights include daily activities such as yoga and hiking, an introduction to biofeedback, meditation, and stargazing.

Prices for retreats range between $2600 and $5200 based on occupancy.

To book a retreat or for more information, www.sonnenalp.com