Letter from Asia – Vietnam

2100km, 8 days, 4 maps, 2 motorcycles, 1 hell of a ride

When my brother Lucas and I decided to embark on a motorcycle trip from Hà Nội in the north of Vietnam, to Hồ Chí Minh in the South, we were regaled with stories from other travelers who had conquered the trek before us. They said it was an incredible journey chocked full of beautiful sights, historic places and delicious food. However, when we told them we had about a week to do it, they couldn’t help but laugh and tell us we were crazy.

Looking at Vietnam on a map, a country residing in the gigantic shadow of China, it looks easily conquerable in 8 days. However, the people we spoke to unanimously agreed it would take
at least two weeks, if not more. By our calculations, not only could we do it in 8 days, but we would even have time to spare. We came up with a rough but conservative (or so we thought) equation to figure out just how much riding we would need to do each day to make it to Hồ Chí Minh City, just in time to celebrate Lucas’ birthday on the last day of the trip.

2100km divided by 8 days = 262.5 km per day.
262.5 km per day divided by an average speed of 50 km per hour = 5.25 hours of riding per day.

We surmised that the fastest route was to stick to Highway 1 as much as possible which goes all the way from Hà Nội to Hồ Chí Minh (which is still commonly reffered to as Sài Gòn in Vietnam), and is the most scenic and iconic road in southeast Asia. The QL-1A as its known, is a part of the Asian Highway Network that connects Istanbul to Japan and also connects a string of historic places and monuments along Vietnam’s eastern coast. Our trusty steeds for the journey were a couple of dated, under powered dirt bikes equipped with knobby tires, loud exhaust pipes and engines not much larger than a sewing machines.

We figured that if we were on the road by 7 am (and the bikes didn’t break down) we would be at our next destination by early afternoon with time to break for lunch along the way. This would give us plenty of time in the evening to get settled in to our accommodations and explore each town before heading out again early the next morning.

We were so confident in our plan that when we left Hà Nội we decided, before we even got started, that we were going to take a little detour. We mounted up and headed in the almost opposite direction to check out the iconic Hạ LongBay. We calculated the 160km ride would take a total of 3 hours, but after 5 hours of winding through the country side and up the coast, we arrived in Hạ Long Bay just in time to watch the sunset light up the sky above the limestone karsts that stud the horizon. A little perplexed, we grabbed an incredible dinner of fresh local tamarind crab and grilled prawns, then called it an early night as we had to be up by 6am to fuel up on cà phê sữa đá (Vietnamese coffee with sweetened condensed milk and ice) and petrol before hitting the road.

After our second day of riding we realized our calculations were quite inaccurate due to a very important factor we failed to take in to consideration… the condition of the roads. What should have been a leisurely coastal ride quickly turned into a race against the setting sun, each day a gamble whether we would make it to our destination before nightfall.

We rode through the historic walled city of Huế which was the Imperial City during the Nguyễn Dynasty and visited the Thiên Mụ pagoda which is the tallest religious building in Vietnam. All before stopping for a bowl of bún bò Huế, the lesser known (but way more delicious) relative of phở. We crossed the Hải Vân Pass, climbing its switchback roads before cresting the mountain top that provides the most unbelievable views of the Vietnamese coastline. We strolled the beaches of Hội An at sunset and partied all night in the resort town of Đà Nẵng. We drank snake wine with a hilarious Russian family in Nha Trang and cured our hangovers with more cà phê sữa đá before getting back on the road again. Our route ran the gamut from immaculate highways with scenic ocean views, to dirt and gravel roads that split through rice fields as far as the eye could see. We crossed over rivers that hosted floating rafts and houses, and through countless tiny towns where even though the locals did not speak any English but they were always waiting with smiles, high-fives and a spread of delicious local dishes. Our accidental detours through the remote and stunning countryside enabled us to capture incredible photos and experience a side of Vietnam we otherwise wouldn’t have had the chance to see. Although it was a tiring, dirty and exhilarating ride, there is no doubt I would do again in a heartbeat.

When we finally reached our destination on the afternoon of Lucas’ birthday, we felt like General Hồ Chí Minh himself rolling in on 125cc tanks ready to take on Sài Gòn. Although the route was under construction just as often as not (which nearly doubled our ride time each day) and we managed to lose 3 maps over the course of the trek, the 2100 km journey along the coast of Vietnam was easily the most unforgettable road trip I have ever taken. Sweaty and still caked with road grime we traded in our bikes for a couple of ice cold beers, sat street side on District 1’s party street known as Bùi Viện, and soothed our parched throats. At one point I looked at Lucas and we both burst out laughing, amazed at the task we just accomplished. With a fresh round of beers, we said “Cheers!” to Vietnam and one hell of a ride. And with that the birthday festivities began.

So long from Sài Gòn
-Dylan

El Floridita, Cuba

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El Floridita

Cuba is a country steeped in history, its culture largely unchanged for the past five decades. You can feel it when you walk through the streets of Havana, you can see it in the texture of the buildings. You can hear it in the music that plays in the bodeguitas at night, and in the laughs of the people gathered in the plazas. Like wrinkles on the face of an elder, these are signs that a city has stories to tell, one must only seek to find the story tellers. One such story is the story of El Floridita, the cradle of the daiquiri.

First opened in 1820, El Floridita was originally named La Pi¬ña de Plata, meaning “The Silver Pineapple”. Nearly a century later the name was changed to El Florida, which due to a predominantly North American clientele at the time, evolved into El Floridita meaning “Little Florida”. The building sits at 557 Obispo Street at the corner of Avenida Belgicia in Old Havana. Its iconic faded pink exterior and glass door entrance gives way to an interior of plush banquets, small metal tables and a checkerboard floor that transports you back to the early 19th century.

A four-piece band plays meringue by the front door welcoming guests into the over capacity room as the singer belts out beautiful melodies in Spanish over the voices of a few hundred patrons. A long wooden bar stretches the length of the back wall and small metal chairs scatter the floor poised next to the crowded tables. Thick red velvet curtains hang at the far end of the room separating the bar area from the dining room which is beautifully festooned with white tablecloths and stemmed glassware, all of which are very dated albeit in the most enchanting way.

www.GoCuba.ca

Valle de Guadalupe, Baja Mexico

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When one thinks of the wine producing regions of the world many places come to mind: Bordeaux or Champagne in France, La Rioja in Spain, Piedmont or Tuscany in Italy, Warra Warra Australia, Napa California, Mendoza Argentina… Even New York’s Finger Lakes or the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia produce quality wines that compete in the world market. However, Mexico isn’t usually on the tip of the tongue when discussing major players in the viticulture game. Yet the Western Hemisphere’s first winery was established in 1597 in Coahuila, while Argentine and Chilean vineyards literally stemmed from Mexico’s rootstock.

Most people would associate typical Mexican libations with over-sweetened margaritas made with cheap tequila, and thanks to a major rise in popularity in recent years, some might even swoon over tequila’s sexier, smokier cousin mezcal. Mexico and its wine-producing regions aren’t even in most people’s wine vocabulary; I know they didn’t enter mine until very recently… but now Valle de Guadalupe is a name and a place I will never forget.

OUT & ABOUT

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The Harry Cipriani, Fifth Avenue, New York City.
Timeless swank is what Cipriani’s is all about. Carrying the torch that was lit in 1931, back in Venice, Italy by Giuseppe Cipriani. Just off the Piazzo San Marco, Giuseppe opened the famed Harry’s Bar and gifted the world with his inventions. Carpacio, now a generic term used globally to describe thinly sliced rw meat or fish and nowadays even fruit, to his infamous pink Champagne cocktail, the Bellini. Another Subtle treat he left us with are his pale aqua menus, brimming with the most delectable Italian fare. The Tiffany-like color of this tableau of quintessential Italian dishes has become the trademark of the Cipriani brand. This location is a must for people watching, socializing, imbibing and dining. The staff is at the top of their game and no glass goes unfilled under the watchful eye of the exceptionally hospitable dining room staff. If lucky, you may bump into Cipriani’s great-granddaughter, Anna, who can give you the most lovely family details and bring the entire evening together. Oh, and it’s most definitely a New York standard. This is a place to see and be seen! cipriani.com

Field of Light by Bruce Munro, Uluru, NT, Australia
The dazzling stars above Uluru, the mystical mesa-top monolith in the Northern Territory, now have competition. Running through March 2017, the solar-powered installation Field of Light illuminates the remote, rugged desert on a monumental scale at Ayers Rock Resort. Artist Bruce Munro conceived the idea in 1992 while visiting Uluru, then first mounted the installation in 2004 at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum and in southwest England before touring. Finally, it returns to its spiritual home. In keeping with the desert’s vast scale, Munro team installed more than 50,000 slender stems crowned with radiant frosted-glass globes. These colored spheres, connected via illuminated optical fibers, bloom as darkness falls. Pathways draw viewers into the installation, accessible via several passes from $35-$235. ayersrockresort.com.au

FnB, Scottsdale, Arizona
Scottsdale has long been a Hollywood hideaway: Bing Crosby, Tony Curtis and Janet Leigh were among the regulars. The past decade has seen a downtown renaissance with burgeoning arts, dining and nightlife scenes. FnB’s energetic voluble co-owner Pavel Milic entertains diners with a running commentary on everything from leftist politics to the locavore movement. A big champion of Arizona wines (he makes four himself under the Los Milics label at renowned facility, Dos Cabezas), his true farm-to-table experience includes such local artisanal products as MJ Breads and Queen Creek Olive Oil: “I’m bringing Arizona viticulture and cuisine out of the closet!” He pours his new rosé, a blend of Grenache and Picpoul Blanc. “Like drinking clouds,” he promises… and delivers. Among James Beard-nominated chef Charleen Badman’s winners: house-cured Meyer-lemon salmon with potato bread and garlic-spiked cream cheese (“our lox and bagel”) and Creekstone ribeye simply grilled with salt and pepper atop a bed of local greens with foraged mushrooms. fnbrestaurant.com

Rivea, Las Vegas, NV
A vertiginous glass elevator with views of the fabled Strip zooms to the 64th floor of the Delano where top toque Alain Ducasse rebranded his Mix as Skyfall Lounge and Rivea. Recessed glowing ovals dangle from Skyfall’s ceiling like clouds; small seating areas line the floor-toceiling windows opening onto more vaunted Strip views. The seasonally changing cocktails incorporate craft products made in-house. Rivea features sweeping mahogany banquettes, whimsical retro “bubble” chandelier and a “Wave Wall” resembling a 3D mosaic with hundreds of glass tiles that mimic the lapping water. The gorgeously textured and presented food channels the sunny, vibrant colors and flavors of Provence. Sharing plates is the way to go: the signature Ducasse cookpot of farmer’s vegetables, faro and quinoas; chickpea fries like puffy ethereal clouds; amazing asparagus-and-ricotta ravioli; glorious paccheri served with a daube-style ox-cheek sauce that conjures memories of Marseilles; lovely lush lobster risotto; gossamer gnocchi perfectly contrasted with parmesan crisps; sea bass crudo with grapefruit and lemon (sublime with a grassy Sauvignon Blanc); and scallops primavera with lima beans, broccoli and peas – summer on a plate. It’s that rare room with a view whose fare is as elevated as the restaurant itself. alain-ducasse.com

Roxy Lounge, New York, NY
Cool design touches abound in the Roxy Hotel’s eponymous lounge: a Steinway grand piano amid a mix of fun funky vintage sofas and chairs from Brimfield Flea Market and 1stDibs. Tiered-banquette seating flanking the elevated stage offers prime perches for live jazz and blues performances, many curated by Lady Gaga’s jazz bandleader, Grammy-nominee Brian Newman. There’s also a (literal) buzz from such cutting-edge craft cocktails as the Roxy (5yo El Dorado Rum, sour cherry cordial, cinnamon, lime and pineapple juices) and my choice, the smashing Dirty Harry (raisin-infused Bulleit Rye, Miracle Mile pecan bitters, demerara with coffee beans)… Yes, I was smashed after two. Chef Joseph Abbruzzese dishes out locally sourced and organic food, including fab fried oysters and beef tartare. And pigs in a blanket: Over a three-day period, the meat is cured, processed, then rolled in house-made dough and sprinkled with Nigella black onion seeds, caraway seeds and Maldon sea salt. Pig out indeed. roxyhotelnyc.com

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Sheer Rocks, Antigua, West Indies
Past a sparkling spillover plunge pool high above the turquoise sea lies Sheer Rocks, a glamorous treehouse-like multi-tiered café. I meet with the Chef who explains Sheer Rocks’ philosophy: serving simple yet exquisite tapas ranging from tuna carpaccio to sticky pork. Each treat perfectly complements the refreshing atmosphere in the warmth of this tropical paradise. When the sun heats up I carry my mojito to the cliff-side pool for a dip. One can never get enough of this view – this chic locale is the perfect place for a casual drink, or even to lounge around until the sunset… and beyond. Sheer heaven. sheer-rocks.com

ADRENALINE RUSH: BEAVER CREEK

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During my recent trip to this extremely exclusive ski destination, winter storm Kayla swept across the States like an avalanche, dropping over a foot of snow the night before my arrival! With the perfect conditions and heaps of fresh snow, I set out to see how this little ski village has transformed into a top-notch adrenaline haven.
Beaver Creek proper is akin to a gated community atop a hill, where all autos coming in and out have to first pass through a security gate. However, everyone from the surrounding areas easily accesses this wonderland via free buses carrying us up to the hilltop village. I glance around at everyone from toddlers to seniors with their skis, snowboards and all sorts of unique and colorful gear.
Snow blankets the Christmas-like village of art galleries, gelato shops and cafes, all surrounding a skating rink which unfortunately today is too buried with snow to enjoy. After taking a quick look around the quaint town I hurry for the lifts to get in a full day. While everyone loves skiing, we always dread lugging our gear in and out every day, especially if we’re not staying in town. But in keeping with its swanky reputation, Beaver Creek recently launched the “White Carpet Club.”

A LETTER FROM ASIA

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I caught wind of Singapore’s coolest bar that “doesn’t exist” from a young woman in the Taipei airport. I was en route to Singapore, the Island city-state just off Malaysia’s southern coast, for a few days when she mentioned that there was a secret bar in the middle of the city that made some of the best cocktails in Asia. A secret bar that makes killer cocktails? Sounds like my kind of party. Needless to say, I was intrigued… and decided to track down this mysterious watering hole as well.
After a little research, we discover that the name of the bar is simply the address, 28 Hong Kong St, and has since become one of the most famous addresses in the bar scene worldwide. I was scheduled for a dinner at Jumbo Seafood restaurant the next night to sample my first authentic Malaysian Chili Crab; Hong Kong Street was right around the corner. Sounded like as good a place as any to cap off my meal – I usually prefer my desserts in liquid form anyway.

Gastown, Vancouver

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Vancouver has numerous eclectic neighborhoods. We’d venture to say that there are at least 14 distinct neighborhoods with their own flavor, charm, history and more. Blessed with diversity, the city offers delights to suit almost every taste. From Chinatown to Punjabi Market you’ll find an array of shops, restaurants, nightspots and just about everything in between. Vancouver is quite a clean city with relatively low crime rates, making for a great place to explore. That could also explain why you’ll always run into loads of people walking these fine neighborhoods.

SWANKILY SATIATED IN THE WILD

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Clayoquot Andrew Innerarity Swanky Retreats

I landed in Vancouver, already a major foodie destination, but kept my palate from wandering around town and gobbling up all the goodness that abounds. I was heading out to the wilderness and ready to indulge every sense at this Relais & Chateaux wilderness retreat. You may have read my rave reviews about the resort itself but for the real food lovers out there that may have only served to whet the appetite. It’s time to delve into to culinary delights orchestrated in the open kitchen of the cookhouse at Clayoquot by Chef Justin Witcher.
Picture yourself in a massive log cabin with floor-to-ceiling glass panels separating you from the great outdoors and the call of the wild and at the center of it all is a smoothly run kitchen effusing the most delectable aromas. Competing with views of a coursing river and mountainscapes is one tall order. Chef manages it all with such aplomb that I found myself torn between watching his orchestration of each meal service and the display that Mother Nature was putting on. It seemed she was constantly trying to outdo herself, perhaps knowing what was going on in the cookhouse. It had to make her a bit envious. Chef had a way of bringing everyone together at mealtime, snack time, and really any time throughout the day. The chimney was pouring out wisps of smoke from dawn til well past dusk and every curl of that smoke carried a whiff of what was going on inside. This was truly a game between nature versus nurture and the comfort of a well-designed menu tended to win me over every time. Hey, that’s why the floor-to-ceiling windows exist. A perfect melding was to be found in the cookhouse. Day after day, there were options upon options and courses upon courses to choose from. From North Island Spot Prawns, bone broth, Fava Bean purée with wild mushrooms and seaweed appetizers to Foie Gras terrine. Not only wasn’t I going hungry in the wild, I was spoiled for choice.

The Chanler at Cliff Walk Newport

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Gilded Age mansions abound in Rhode Island. The coastal towns are where it’s at, and the Chanler at Cliff Walk in Newport enjoys a brilliant position perched directly on the water’s edge. John Winthrop Chanler, a New York State Congressman, built what is now an upscale boutique hotel as a private summer residence, the first on the cliff walk, in 1873. It then underwent many transformations – a reform school, a museum… even a tenement house for the navy in the ‘40s – until the new owners purchased it in 2000. To see it now, restored to its former intended glory, is heartwarming.

Although everything new was deliberately designed to look as though it dates to the house’s origins, a refined sense of modernism playfully dances with nostalgia in every nook of the hotel. The new owners spent two years and $25 million renovating the property. Each of the 20 suites and villas at The Chanler is uniquely appointed. All are bold in their choice of textiles and textures. Many, including The Block Island Villa (which houses a fireplace, full sauna and Jacuzzi), offer mesmerizing views of the Atlantic Ocean.
Every detail is carefully laid out. The Spiced Pear’s cuisine is a reflection of that consciousness: It offers an “inventive interpretation of classic New England dishes and French influences,” while remaining true to its surroundings and sourcing the freshest local ingredients.

When winter gives way to spring, you may want to shift views as dining on the patio is essential, coupled with a lazy afternoon and a bottle of wine on the lawn. The intentional planting of over 100 species of plants in the manicured gardens gives The Chanler the privacy its guests demand, and offers a sense of place by gently guiding the eye down the undulating lawn to the roiling sea just below. The Cliff Walk itself leads you down a path of similar stately mansions on one side and surfers riding the waves on the other: a three-and-a-half mile journey into everything Newport is all about, a rich tapestry of tradition caressed by the wild call of the sea. thechanler.com

The Hermitage, Nevis

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In Nevis, you’ll find a special property that feels like a home away from home. It’s The Hermitage and, in fact, it’s the oldest wooden house on the island and notably one of the oldest such structures in the Caribbean. The main house is earthfast-constructed, meaning roofbearing timbers are in direct contact with the ground, not requiring a foundation. But solid it is. The great house is fashioned from the strongest wood known to man, Lignum vitae. The self-lubricating timber can withstand water and is as strong as steel. Other island homes built out of the same wood were dismantled and used in shipbuilding – it’s that tough, the stuff of legends. The family-run Hermitage is legendary in its own right and as soft and inviting as the structure is strong.

In 1971 the Lupinacci family from Quakertown, Pennsylvania, first turned the property into a home. Richard Lupinacci, Sr. had worked throughout the islands for a major U.S. bank and fell in love with the long-neglected property. They welcomed 59 visitors that first year: friends and family (Richard is one of ten children and wife Maureen one of five). Although they still traveled through-out the islands, in 1979 the family decided to settle permanently at the house, which by that time had been fully restored by local carpenters, alongside additional guest houses sourced from around the island or built from scratch in traditional Caribbean architectural vernacular.

These charming cottages rim the main house and tiered gardens, adding a fairytale feel. The Hermitage sits right at the base of Mount Nevis, ensuring glorious vistas and breezes. So much history and oozing with charm. The Blue House, one of the choicest accommodations, is actually built on the foundation of the original kitchen.
Sip rum on the great house verandah or tucked in at the cozy wooden bar…grab a cocktail from Romeo and don’t be surprised if wild donkeys and green vervet monkeys wander onto the property. Bring a good book, relax by the pool or in a hammock and enjoy an old-world vacation experience with family-style hospitality with the Lupis to the hilt! Insider’s tip: try to stay over a Wednesday night when a pig roast is hosted right on the lawn. hermitagenevis.com

Letter from Asia – Vietnam

El Floridita, Cuba

www.GoCuba.ca

Valle de Guadalupe, Baja Mexico

OUT & ABOUT

ADRENALINE RUSH: BEAVER CREEK

A LETTER FROM ASIA

Gastown, Vancouver

SWANKILY SATIATED IN THE WILD

The Chanler at Cliff Walk Newport

The Hermitage, Nevis

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