Step inside and discover an indulgent city hideaway where every detail weaves together past and present
If walls could talk, these would have some captivating stories to tell. This address has long been a playground for socialites and bohemians like Oscar Wilde and Lillie Langtry. Today we celebrate its past and heritage while offering modern, understated luxury. From the world-class restaurants and tranquil garden to quirky design details and in-room libraries, this is London living perfected.
Book with us and travel like this! Get upgrades, based on availability, and other amenities, plus exclusive rates.
The ultimate barefoot luxury escape is only a few clicks away.
Take relaxation to the next level at the most exclusive sanctuary on the pristine shores of Anguilla.
Cap Juluca is a dream-like escape, spread across the Caribbean’s most beautiful beach. Feel the breeze blowing across your private terrace. Every room is a beachfront haven. Be positioned to discover an island famed for pristine sands, broad coral reefs and an unmissable culinary scene. Or simply breathe the sea air, relax, and let the hours float by.
Book with us and travel like this! Get upgrades, based on availability, and other amenities, plus exclusive rates.
Perched high in the Santa Barbara hills, this iconic hideaway offers the best views of the American Riviera.
This is close enough to Los Angeles to ooze Hollywood glamour in a modern classic, yet far enough up the coast to be a true getaway, even for the Hollywood elite.
Spread across seven acres of secluded gardens, El Encanto opened in 1918 and has been part of Santa Barbara’s social scene ever since. The resort is gleaming and glamorous, yet relaxed and low key. The kind of place that invites you to recline poolside, breathe in the ocean air, and sip a glass of crisp local wine.
Book with us and travel like this! Get upgrades, based on availability, and other amenities, plus exclusive rates.
We took the long way in getting here. Heading out west from the East Coast is always an adventure and a journey to be savored, so we took the scenic route. Flying into Billings Montana late at night and staying in a tiny bed-and-breakfast before hitting the road to cross Yellowstone National Park the next day was the perfect respite after flying commercial all day.
The geysers, bubbling sulfur pools, rolling hills, wildlife and wild tourists captured our attention along the way. As far as the eye could see this spectacular spectacle of a park offered jaw dropping views. If it weren’t a lush mountainside, there was a babbling brook that cut through a field of wildflowers that somehow peacefully coexisted with a steaming pool that appeared to have popped up out of nowhere. Old Faithful was getting old because its spurting exhibit of prowess was lacking, in my opinion. Having sat out in the blazing sun in anticipation, I found the geysers display a tad disappointing. However the surrounding terrain offered crystal clear pools and a kaleidoscope of watercolors as a backdrop, formed by sulfur springs and other tiny bubblers nearby.
No time was wasted. This was a trip, an adventure, and a journey that we wanted to immerse ourselves in. The journey through Yellowstone was a memorable one but the anticipation of where we were headed kept this road trip moving. No time to dawdle because what lay ahead was potentially more intriguing and even more entertaining than what lies behind in the park.
We were on our way to Red Reflet Guest Ranch. The name alone is intriguing as reflet is French for reflect. We couldn’t wait to discover why it was named in such an untraditionally western name. This is the wild Wild West after all and names mean a lot out in these parts. It didn’t take very long upon arrival to surmise why the name was what it was. Upon approach, the red rocks that formed the mountain range which served as the backdrop for this resort spoke volumes. The red was everywhere. When I say everywhere, I mean it. We were about to find out just how far that red dirt was willing to travel.
As we checked in at the main lodge we were escorted to our chalet and what would be our transportation for the remainder of our stay. Our chalet sat overlooking the ridge that framed the canyon that climbed upward to a table top plateaued red mountain. Our floor to ceiling windows showcased everything. It was about time that we dropped our bags and hopped on the two awaiting ATVs. It was time to explore!
As I said, we flew commercial, but quite a few of the guests who were there during our stay flew into the resort’s private airport. What a spectacular landing that must be to glide in and taxi down the runway with these glorious mountains on either side of your wingtip. From everything we heard from those guests, it was a magical experience. The guest ranch is magical for everyone though as you’re about to see through our words which truly do not do justice to this gorgeous 6,600 acre ranch.
The tagline says they are exclusively inclusive and uniquely uncommon; we can attest to that. As we hopped on our ATVs and headed out to explore some of the acres we looked at each other in awe. Stretched out beside us, behind us, beneath us, as we descended our perch atop the mountain from our chalet, were virgin green pastures on one side, red rocks on another in a dusty valley on yet another side. Within our sites, we knew we had a veritable adventure playground at our feet. We came as a couple but the resort is one of the best in Wyoming for families. It allows guests to schedule as many activities as they like. We chose to start off simply exploring on our ATVs, in an attempt to figure out what we should do first.
As we had just arrived, I was too timid to hop on and have my first time experience on a dirtbike. I was timid because who knows how that would’ve ended up. As we drove past the stables with all the dappled horses brown and even one that had to be in his stable during the daylight hours because he was easily sunburnt, that’s right a horse who basically reminded me of Mr. Ed, as he gazed out at us from his stable accommodations. He became one of our favorites, actually. Although we couldn’t ride him in the hundred degree, sunny daylight we decided to hop on other horses and off of our cycles and get out and see some really great terrain. There are ample choices that range from hiking to fishing, mountain biking, rifle shooting, handgun shooting, rock climbing and a natural water park for swimming and some swinging off ropes, as a daredevil does. Speaking of daredevils, we threw our names on the list to go and zip line across the ranch.
As we took the rim ride, as it is called, we got to thinking that we were sort of happy it wasn’t winter because we could imagine tobogganing and sledding down the slopes of these red rock ranges. It was a harrowing enough experience for us to ride on the rim atop one of these gorgeous red plateaus. The cracked slate under the hubs of the horses let us know that we were not necessarily on terra firma the entire ride, but we never felt afraid, for these sure footed creatures carried us with gentle grace as we looked down hundreds of feet to the canyon below. The silence and serenity made it easy to be at one with nature, only the sound of the occasional neighing from the horse and the crackle of that slate broke the thick silence that was among us. Captivated by our surroundings, we were speechless for all the right reasons.
Hopping off of our horses and back onto our ATVs to head up to the chalet, we decided that the day’s ride was worth discussing while sitting on our wraparound terrace because we simply couldn’t bring ourselves to interrupt each other’s thoughts while on the ride along the rim of the mountain. Cowboy boots up against the railing gazing out at the red rocks, sipping on a glass of wine, we decided to do nothing before getting ready for dinner with the other guests and our inspiring host, Laurence.
Doing nothing here also seems like an activity outside of all those that they offer because as we sat staring off into what we thought was a still life Vista, we looked to our right and saw a family of deer making their way down to the green valley below. At every turn and every glance we were able to see nature unfolding as daylight drifted into sunset, washing the red rocks with a new subtle light.
That golden hour glow was our cue to head to dinner. We took the car down in the evenings as dust was not a welcome accessory to our evening attire. When we say inclusive, we mean it. All of our food, beverages and activities were included (besides a nominal fee for a fishing license had we chosen to partake in fly fishing). Dinner was always an enjoyable delight. We ate outside, chatting with the owner and her guests, sipping on wine and watching the red rock mountains fade to black.
Luckily for us our stay was over a few moonless nights that set the inky black sky a light with stars instead of moonlight, allowing us to see clearly the Milky Way and other constellations. The views at night rival those of the day and even from my bed looking beyond our toes, we could see the night sky dotted with stars that twinkled, as though they were sending us off to slumber and wishing us a good night.
It really is engaging. Being at the ranch at one with nature, being a part of the crew, if only for a few days and nights, the experience is authentic and as hands-on as one would like it to be. Speaking of hands on, our zip lining experience required us to use our hand to press down on the brake in order to stop. Talk about taking your life into your own hands. This was an adrenaline rush like no other. We soared above the swimming hole, saw others hiking up the side of a mountain, and dirt bikes being returned to the shed. Being up that high and taking things in from yet another vantage point gave us a sense of invincibility. On the final run of the zip line, we were so emboldened that we dusted off the red sandy bits that we picked up along our joyride high above the ranch and decided to give dirt bike riding a try! My partner rides motorcycles quite a bit so he had little trepidation taking on the loose earth, as he took off over the horizon and climbed up the side of a hill. I, on the other hand, took a minute to learn about gears and clutches and then I was off! Fairly proud of myself for staying on the bike as I sped up and down on the mostly flat, sandy parts of the valley.
What a trip! Our days here were numbered and as time drew nearer to departure, we soaked in our hot tub on the last night; contemplating the stars and chatting about taking a final horseback ride to a hidden waterfall that we had heard so much about. Seems surprising in what is now a very arid state, that for millions of years was underwater and 300 million years ago, in the Carboniferous age, Wyoming would have been an island off of the west coast of North America, if you can imagine that. So on our way to the waterfall, it should have been no surprise to us that we stopped to pick up fossilized tentacles from a squid-like cephalopod. At first these pieces of prehistoric history eluded our eyes. They are the same color as the dusty ground we were trotting upon. But once our guide, the general manager of the resort, Penny Ready “Penn” hopped out of her saddle and picked up two to show us, our eyes acclimated and we found a few more of these bullet-shaped, dart-like treasures. What a treat that was.
Driving to the guest ranch we had seen the signs along the road about the age of the rocky terrain we were driving through, but being able to dismount our horses to actually touch these extinct treasures brought home the fact that this trip indeed was a privilege not many get to experience. Awash with emotion from that encounter, we rode along over a hill to be surprised, yet again, by the sight of the waterfall which appeared out of a barren landscape. We tied our horses to a tree and sat on the banks of the river created by the cascade and took it all in for a few minutes, as the horses rested. The ride back was mostly quiet, as we reflected on our final moments at Red Reflet. Taking it all in before we hit the road once again.
This is how to do the Wild West in style, even if you have to fly commercial!
Blues, brews and style all come together in the swankiest southern town this side of the Mississippi. While the hordes of tourists might flock to Nashville, its sister city of Memphis has been quietly undergoing a renaissance, cooking up the real taste of Americana that few remaining towns can offer.
By Jeff Sobel
I arrived at the Hyatt Centric which just celebrated its grand opening in April 2021, garnering a number of records including the first and only hotel not only on Memphis’ famed Beale Street, but also right on the riverfront. With 227 guest rooms and suites, it’s the perfect blend of musical history and modern amenities. Far from a typical cookie-cutter chain, the local owners have crafted this resort into a unique and swanky oasis with all the exquisite touches and musically-inspired decor that can only be found in Memphis.
To paraphrase a Johnny Cash lyric, it was Memphis in mid-July, I’d just hit town and my throat was dry, time to stop and have myself a brew. After freshening up in my expansive, modern guest room featuring a center staged glass shower and gorgeous river views, I step right onto downtown Beale Street. I pass several historical structures with steel beams holding up the facades as Beale is one of the most protected streets in the country, adding to the movie set-like feel.Hyatt Conference CenterI met the Hyatt Centric’s director of events, Nick Janysek, for lunch at Dyers, a place I imagine B.B. King might have stepped into late one night, or early one morning. Saying it’s a southern diner doesn’t do it justice. More history than most, the secret cooking grease used in the kitchen dates back over a century – you read that right. Anyone who’s had a blues type of night on the town knows that a good hangover can only be cured by a greasy burger, and there’s no better place than Dyers. I haven’t had a night that requires a fried Twinkie, but I do have a local Fireside beer that cools me right off.
As the afternoon peaks, I take advantage of the great weather and return to the Hyatt’s resort-style pool that offers cabanas and an expansive deck for live entertainment. I set up camp half in the water and half in the sun, marveling at how the Centric managed to meld South Beach with Southern Hospitality.
Conference Center
Once the sun sets over the river, I tour the Hyatt’s conference center meeting space which demonstrates how different the Centric brand is than most hotels, much more in tune with the local community. The converted historic building with exposed brick walls, wooden beams and massive factory windows overlooking the river make it seem more like a country farmhouse than a typical ballroom. I meet with the general manager, Sarah Titus, for drinks at their CIMAS lounge where more touches of brass lighting and the stone bar resonate with the hotel’s overall vibe of history meets modernity. On this sultry summer evening, I dive into a grapefruit-infused gin cocktail that’s as refreshing as it is delicious. I hear tales of the owner’s family history and the long path to build this dream hotel, going so far as to commission the Memphis Metal Museum to repurpose metal and materials from the historic 1879 William C. Ellis and Sons Ironworks and Machine Shop Building.
Gin Cocktail
After happy hour, I head out passing the historic red brick downtown buildings where signs of a city re-emerging from 2020 can be seen everywhere. I pass the infamous street from the film, ‘The Firm’, and a plaque noting author John Grisham’s ties to this splendid southern city. With the apropos Centric hotel so close to everything, I soon traipse through what seems like a time portal to emerge at Rendezvous, a BBQ institution for over 75 years. The servers don’t work here for months or years, but decades, and it’s a tribute to the establishment and the servers’ dedication that everyone is back and better than ever.
The racks of smoked pork ribs with dry-rub spices are a must, and the tender brisket rivals my Texas friends’ recipe, if I may say so; not to mention the pecan pie tart appetizer, because why not? Washed down with a local Wiseacre brew, my spiced and messy fingers stain the sides of the beer bottle. Getting messy is the cost of admission and I’m happy to pay.
After a restful night’s sleep in the plush guest bed, I head downstairs for anything but a traditional hotel breakfast. With a mix of southern specials through a Latin American lens, I daresay the Hyatt’s CIMAS restaurant rivals any local spot in town. Far from the typical hotel fare, the modern cuisine sporting river views gets me ready for the day with a carnitas egg breakfast hash that I never knew I needed in my life.
While aqua blue and sunflower yellow trolley cars cruise along the historic streets, I decide to instead ride off my breakfast by utilizing one of the city’s many electric bike stations. With Memphis now listed as one of the most bike-friendly cities in the nation, I’m able to travel down a scenic path before reaching the massive bridge hovering over the Mississippi River. With the breeze cooling the summer heat, I make it halfway across the bridge where I keep one foot in Tennessee and step my other into Arkansas.
Memphis Biking
After taking in the sweeping views of the city, I head to Sun Studio, noted as the ‘Birthplace of Rock ’n’ Roll. I met with Milton Howery from Memphis Tourism who gave me an inside look at the recording studio that launched the careers of countless stars including B.B. King, Johnny Cash, and an 18-year-old delivery truck driver who popped in one day on his lunch break, Elvis Presley. This is where I learn all about Memphis’ musical history and how this unassuming recording studio produced so many hits, and even is still in use today.
Sun Studio
Sun Studio
A short stroll from the studio lies a hip-hop inspired pizza joint, Slim & Husky’s, which can best be described as a party in itself with stunning murals, tunes and of course artisan flatbreads and cinnamon rolls as colorful as the artwork. As with so many Memphis restaurants, the ingredients are locally-sourced and the design so unique, where essentially an assembly line offers endless cheesy choices. I go with ‘Nothing but a V thing’, a fully vegan pizza to mix up my BBQ-fueled trip. Just as tasty if not more, the vegan mozzarella and even vegan pepperoni is a perfect blend for an afternoon treat, followed by the ‘Halle Berry’ lemon blueberry cinnamon roll that’s unlike any I’ve ever tasted.
Wanting to explore a little further from downtown I grab a ride to up-and-coming North Memphis, past lush green forests and even a few horses before reaching the new Grind City Brewery, a massive modern complex sitting beside the river with a priceless view of downtown. I speak with the owners who picked this location and spent years revitalizing the old factory to help the spread change in the area. I tour the facility where they brew not only different varieties of beer, but have also expanded into their own hard seltzers. With a flight tasting in the bright and open taproom overlooking the expansive outdoor green space, I try a delicious Viva Honey Seltzer followed by the ‘Not Your Kids Chocolate Milk’ stout that garners some looks on this hot summer day, but cools me off just the same.
Grind City Brewery
Back downtown, the sun sets and Beale Street springs to life as partygoers stroll the pedestrian street past guitar sculptures and even a courtyard bar with pet goats. Only in Memphis can I ascend a secret fire escape just above the hopping B.B. King’s Blues Club to find a fine dining restaurant, Itta Bena, serving up contemporary Southern cuisine with a Delta influence. I meet with Milton and Nick in the literally ‘Blues’ inspired dining room where blue-tinted windows cast sapphire light throughout the swanky southern spot, topping off the speakeasy hideaway feel.
From the flash-fried crab stuffed avocado to Abita BBQ shrimp appetizers I wonder if I’ll make it to the main course. Reinforcements arrive as my old-fashioned comes smoked, not stirred, inside what looks like a magician’s glass box, the perfect pairing for my center-cut filet mignon. Great food and lots of laughs, Memphis truly has it all.
Itta Bena Filet
Itta Bena
In the morning I’m surprisingly hungry again, but not for long, because a short walk from the Hyatt lies Sugar Grits, a local breakfast eatery where I sample a biscuit board followed by Charleston cheddar yellow grits with andouille sausage – I’ve never felt more southern. I meet up with Milton again from Memphis Tourism who shares his experiences growing up in this unique city, along with tales of its past. With so much rich culture it’s important to also recognize the full history of both Memphis and America, with no starker landmark than my next stop, the National Civil Rights Museum located at the Lorraine Motel where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated. Naming it one of the top sites to visit in town is an understatement, as it’s one of the most impressive, poignant and touching museums I’ve ever experienced. Combining both the actual motel facade with a heart-wrenching museum, visitors step through an immersive and informative experience with exhibits, films, artwork, historical artifacts that detail the history from slavery through Jim Crow, the Civil Rights movement and much more.
Civil Rights Museum
Civil Rights Museum
Lorraine Motel – Civil Rights Museum
Back in the summer sun, I cool off with a Bushwacker milkshake (essentially a mudslide) at the Green Beetle, the oldest bar in town, before diving headfirst into a greasy heaven at Gus’s World Famous Hot & Spicy Fried Chicken restaurant. I go with a three-piece dark chicken with mac & cheese, fried green tomatoes, fried pickle spears and fried okra – I’m fried! It’s no frills, all taste, and I couldn’t be happier.
Gus’s World Famous Hot & Spicy Fried Chicken
My stomach is stuffed just in time as I cross the street for a tour of the Old Dominick Distillery, taking an inside look at the full process from massive bubbling vats to bottling, then back to the brand new rich bar for a tasting of vodka, gin and of course, Tennessee Whiskey.
Old Dominick Distillery
In the center of downtown lies the perfect summer venue, an outdoor amphitheater at Handy Park, which makes sense as the entire city’s spirit teems with music. As a way to welcome back live music, the city is hosting an eleven-week free summer concert series, and thanks to Milton and his Memphis Tourism team I get a front row seat to Memphis soul artist, the Nick Black Band.
Perfectly shaded and with a cool breeze, the crowd dances in delight as we all take in the tunes and for a moment forget that it’s our first concert in over a year. A frozen Wet Willie’s daiquiri drips condensation down my hand, the smell of a nearby BBQ smoker wafts over the crowd as I watch a band member’s purple-painted trombone ignite the party.
After the concert, I return to the Hyatt Centric and change into cocktail attire for dinner at CIMAS and watch the priceless view of the sun setting over the mighty Mississippi. I meet executive chef Keith Potter and his team who have infused their passion with free reign to offer unpretentious yet exquisite variety, including a refreshing summer hydro Bibb salad with charred avocado, pork belly ‘al pastor’ tostada, followed by the Mishima wagyu bavette topped with chimichurri and corn chow chow.
Cimus Wagyu
Cimus Salad
An elevator from CIMAS takes guests straight up to Beck & Call, the first and only riverfront rooftop bar in the city. Since I was too satisfied with the extravagant meal to try dessert, instead I indulge with a festive ‘Biscotti’ old fashioned as I watch the “M” Bridge Mighty Lights show over the river and reflect on my time in Memphis. I’ve seen so much and yet so little of this historic, musical, trendy town, wondering why I haven’t been here sooner? Better late than never, and I’ll certainly be back.
Uncover the best of Charleston before returning to a warm welcome in the heart of the historic district.
The hotel combines historic design with a warm Southern embrace. From the acclaimed Charleston Grill to the rooftop infinity pool, this is a true slice of serenity in the Holy City. Set back from the street, this cosmopolitan hideaway is perfectly situated to explore the full beauty of historic Charleston. Urban living never felt so good.
Book with us and travel like this! Get upgrades, based on availability, and other amenities, plus exclusive rates.
On the road to South Carolina we tuned into quite a few podcasts, sang Darius Rucker (Hootie) songs and leaned all the way into Wagon Wheel, although the lyrics were as upside down to our experience as could possibly be:
Headin’ down south to the land of the pines
I’m thumbin’ my way into North Caroline
Starin’ up the road and pray to God I see headlights
I made it down the coast in seventeen hours
Pickin’ me a bouquet of dogwood flowers
And I’m a-hopin’ for Raleigh, I can see my baby tonight
So, rock me mama like a wagon wheel
Rock me mama any way you feel
Hey… mama rock me
Rock me mama like the wind and the rain
Rock me mama like a southbound train
Hey… mama rock me
We were headed north to the tippy top of South Carolina, but it sure did set the tone. Our destination was Hotel Domestique, Tucked at the base of the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains. Wending our way through the state of South Carolina offered a glimpse into what we thought we could expect upon arrival. Taking the byways instead of the highways was a nice way to enjoy the state’s foliage. Loving antiques, it also gave us an opportunity to stop in and poke around a few local treasure troves. Friendly people, natural beauty and centuries old sites pulled us from every direction as soon as we crossed its border. We were bound for Upcountry, blew through Lowcountry as we wanted something more than Charleston this time around. We certainly got what we asked for. The Old World style of this hotel transported us upon arrival. There she was, this grand manor with her monochromatic plastered walls, in the midst of an undulating field of green. As we made it up the drive and parked in the grey gravel drive, a feeling of being transported, metaphorically this time, came over us. We could have very well pulled up to a Tuscan villa without leaving the US. This was a treat for the senses and inside did not disappoint. A slate floor, thick wooden beams bracing the ceiling, a stone-clad fireplace, and chandeliers reinforced the image of being elsewhere, but after climbing the open staircase to our room, there was no place we would have rather been. What was even better was that we only had to cross a gravel courtyard to get to dinner at Restaurant 17. The juxtaposition of the modern clean lines with a light fixture that cascaded from the second floor the the first, against the uplit plastered walls across the courtyard was stunning. This slice of South Carolina was stealing the show.
Rising with the sun, we made out moving shapes through the mist. They were cyclists. The hotel is renowned for being a mecca for world-class cycling. If that adventure is not your thing, there is also golf, fishing, and hiking that abound in every direction. The short, scenic, trip to take in the award-winning culture and cuisine of nearby Asheville and Greenville are to be added to the list as well. We did Greenville and Travelers Rest, on our way to an adrenaline inducing day on another sort of road trip at the BMW Performance Center!
That’s right, the BMW Performance Center for what they call a Track Meet.
The event included a gourmet lunch, 3 driving events and a cocktail reception. I am pretty sure that was the order. However, after ripping around the courses, driving at speeds not legally allowed on public roads, I could have reordered the agenda and put lunch after the track meet. What a rush this day was. The BMW plant in South Carolina actually produces about 80% of the cars we see today. The uber cool thing about this driving experience is not only the rush of adrenaline you feel while doing it and the heightened confidence you feel after, but the fun fact that if you buy a BMW from anywhere in the US, from any dealer, you can choose to pick it up right here in South Carolina and enjoy a day of tearing up their performance vehicles on the tracks before taking your new baby on the roads and treating her like the dainty flower that she is, because…laws. At least we got it out of our system! This was a climactic end to our road trip.
*This experience is held rain or shine and the dress is casual – just no flip flop type sandals or open toe/heel shoes. Participants must possess a valid driver’s license and be 18 years of age. Feel free to bring sunscreen, sunglasses, Gopros, cameras.
Who invented wine? We have a lot to thank them for. It is tempting to believe that this nectar of the gods was handed down to mankind from the heavens; perhaps Zeus gifted it to us from Mount Olympus. But the reality, at least as far as archeologists have been able to discern, is that it was the ancient people of the Caucasus who first fermented grape juice and found that they rather enjoyed the taste. 8,000 years ago, the inhabitants of what is now the country of Georgia were already master winemakers, storing their wine in clay vessels, fragments of which have survived to the present day. Georgia truly is the birthplace of wine.
Fascinated by the millennia of history, and keen to try Georgian wine for myself, I travelled to Georgia’s winemaking heartland, Kakheti, in the east of the country. Here, the Caucasus Mountains zig zag on the horizon, but the wide valleys are shallow and temperate, with plenty of space to cultivate vines. International grape varieties do grow here, but as Georgia has more than 500 indigenous grapes, which evolved in specific terroirs, it makes far more sense to plant the local species. There is a centralized vine library, the National Grape Collection, with vineyards and nurseries, close to the capital, Tbilisi, but wherever you drive you will see local grape varieties growing, especially red Saperavi and white Rkatsiteli.
Almost every Georgian I have met makes wine. And even if they are now living in a modern city apartment, far from their family land, a cousin or an uncle still tends the vineyards and makes wine on their behalf. Many of these artisanal wine makers still use traditional techniques which would be recognisable to their pioneering ancestors, and large scale producers, too, have realised that this ancient knowledge creates some phenomenal tasting, and very distinctive, wines.
Schuchmann Winery is attempting to combine historical know-how with modern expertise to secure a sustainable future for wine making in Georgia. Working together, partners Burkhard Schuchmann (a German wine buff) and longtime Georgian winemaker Giorgi Dakishvili aim to identify, develop, and promote methods which are economically profitable, socially responsible, and environmentally friendly. Since 2008, they have developed their estate in the Kakheti region with 60 hectares of land under vines. In addition to producing high end Georgian wines, they have also established a wine bar and restaurant in Tbilisi’s old Tbileli Caravanserai, and created a fabulous spa hotel and luxury villas amongst their vines at Kisiskhevi.
For a wine lover, it is a rare and wonderful thing to wake up and look straight out of the window at row after row of vines. Starting the day with a coffee on the balcony (the bottles of wine will come later in the day…), I was mesmerized by the soft swirls of mist and the mountainous backdrop. I inhaled the cool, clean air deeply and felt unusually at peace. This is a place to come and unwind, far from urban stresses. Of course, the wine helps you relax!
Grapes, as I quickly learned from the Schuchmann team, are not just good for wine making. Grape seed oil includes Omega 6 and vitamin E. Grape polyphenol is a strong antioxidant, and grape water is rich in moisturizing polysaccharides. The Schuchmann Wine Spa leverages the health-giving benefits of the natural materials all around on the estate, enabling guests to quite literally cover themselves in grape byproducts, experiencing the magical powers of wine on the outside as well as inside of the body. I soaked in a hot wine bath, almost tempted to have a slurp as I bathed; and then was treated to a regenerative scrub with grape seeds. The grape seed oil has anti aging properties, and certainly my skin felt softer and more elastic when I finally emerged dozily from the spa building into the afternoon sun.
The combination of fresh mountain air and a rigorous massage definitely drums up an appetite. The Schuchmann Hotel has three restaurants spread across the estate, and the staff have considered very carefully which foods will compliment their wines. The poolside grill is super for a snack, especially if you are feeling lazy, but at least once a day you should indulge in a proper Georgian feast. Schuchmann Traditional Restaurant overlooks the Alazani Valley and serves a mixture of standard and modern Georgian dishes, all of which are prepared from fresh, organic ingredients, many of which have grown in the same mineral rich soils as the vines. And, if you are in the mood for a visually stunning culinary experiment, there is a technically and artistically imaginative Molecular Gastronomy Restaurant on the vineyard, too.
I f I could only eat one cuisine for the rest of my lifetime, I have no doubt at all that I would choose Georgian. If you try Schuchmann’s culinary masterclass during your stay at the hotel, you will probably feel the same. Imeretian khachapuri may not be great for the waistline, but it is a taste of cheesy heaven; and it is served alongside healthier dishes such as spiced walnut paste wrapped in grilled eggplant, chakapuli (veal and tarragon stew), lobiani (red beans), and sun ripened tomatoes so sweet they might as well be dessert. Choosing the right bottle of wine to accompany such a memorable meal is key, but that is why a sommelier is always there to guide you. In most cases, I personally would lean towards Schuchmann’s Vinoterra Rkatsiteli (2012), a crisp and intense dry white, but there are so many other unusual grape varieties to explore here, not least Kisi (which is native to the Kakheti region) and the deep, blood red Saperavi, Georgia’s robust answer to a Cabernet Sauvignon.
Little by little, we are starting to see Georgian wines in restaurants and specialist shops abroad. The quantities exported to the USA and European Union are tiny compared to the better known Old and New World Producers, however, so your best opportunity to learn about Georgia’s wine making heritage and taste the country’s full breadth of affordable wines is to visit and enjoy the warmth of Georgian hospitality. The Schuchmann Hotel is a gorgeous place to base yourself for a wine-themed Georgian adventure, but it is an equally idyllic spot should you want to just hide away from the world, relax, and enjoy drinking the fabulous wines.
Pulling up through Main Street in the small town of Brewster, Massachusetts on Cape Cod, guests who enter the gates of the Ocean Edge Resort & Golf Club are greeted with the grandeur of a long driveway, lush front lawn, and two incredible mansion-like buildings that represent the true spirit of a luxurious Cape Cod getaway. It’s no wonder why the resort has earned the title as the crown jewel of Cape Cod.
The historic beginnings of the resort are what bring the charm and character of the property to life. In the late 1880’s the original 1,800-acre property was purchased by Samuel Nickerson which included Fieldstone Hall, today known as The Mansion where check-in takes place, a windmill, and private game reserve. Some years later Fieldstone Hall was destroyed in a tragic fire but was rebuilt along with the neighboring Carriage House that is commonly used as meeting and event space at the resort. From 1944-1973 the property was sold and used as a seminary and it was not until the 1980’s that the property became The Ocean Edge Resort & Golf Club.
Today, guests can enjoy five of the original rooms in The Mansion including The Roscommon Room for dining, the Great Hall, the Billiard Room which is now the lobby, and the LaSalette Room where you can grab a book or a cocktail and sit by the cozy fire.
“The historic beginnings of the resort are what bring the charm and character of the property to life.”
The resort is neatly divided into two separate communities, The Mansion and The Villages, that sit on 429-acres where collectively 337 rooms and suites are spread throughout. With 21,000 square feet of meeting space, weddings and group gatherings are no stranger to the resort. Golfing, private experiences, diverse options of tours that are both educational and entertaining, and activities for adventurers and those wanting to sit back and relax are all available on resort grounds making it a prime destination. Prior to the pandemic, the resort was only open during the summer season starting on Memorial Day but is now open all-year after receiving many guests who were looking to get away from quarantine life in the city.
For families looking to spend their summers on The Cape, The Villages community offers 216 units divided into four separate villages. While not all those staying at The Villages have access to the resort’s private beach, guests staying here have access to a shuttle bus during season that provides transportation to nearby Crosby Beach.
The AAA Four Diamond Mansion community offers 121 units ranging in size and style in the Nickerson Mansion or the Presidential Bay Collection Villas and has full access to the resort’s private beach. For this particular stay, our experience began with accommodations at The Mansion side of the property in a spacious Signature King Guestroom with balcony in the West Wing.
These guest rooms feature a king size bed with premium bedding that makes it feel like you’re sleeping on clouds. A sofa bed is also available in the room making it a great addition for small children to lay their heads after an adventurous day. The bathrooms feature a large tub and shower combo with a stand alone sink. There is also a vanity area with ample lighting that makes doing hair and makeup a breeze! Additional amenities include your typical coffee maker, small refrigerator, and desk although getting any work done would be hard when you’re in a resort that offers so many great activities.
Just below the guest rooms sits an indoor heated pool and fitness center. The building is a stone’s throw to the tennis courts, bike rental stand and quick walk to the beach.
After exploring your surroundings, head to Ocean Terrace for an evening cocktail which overlooks Cape Cod Bay and where the views of the orange and pink sunsets just can’t be missed. This signature restaurant is truly one-of-a-kind. On chilly nights, take a seat at the outdoor fire bowls, order some cocktails and feast on the freshest oysters. Insider tip: the Ocean Terrace serves brunch on special occasions such as Thanksgiving, Easter, and Mother’s Day so be sure to plan a trip around one of these holidays.
After a heavenly night’s sleep, you’ll want to dine in the Roscommon Room for breakfast. The current Roscommon Room was the Nickerson family dining room and is an extension of Ocean Terrace. To one side you’ll find the fireplace showcases Italian craftsmanship and intricate woodworking and to the other side a full bar where above sits a portrait of the Nickerson family matriarch. The menu is small but the options do not disappoint. In true New England fashion, a Lobster Frittata is offered on the menu along with lighter fare such as Greek yogurt, fruits and juices. If you can’t decide, opt for the Terrace Eggs, a popular menu item and a hearty meal that includes toast, sausage, and bacon.
Lunch and dinner options are aplenty. Located on the lower level of the Nickerson Mansion is Bayzo’s Pub, come here if you’re looking for family-friendly dishes and a fun pub-like atmosphere. You can’t go wrong with the Honey-Lime Chicken, this deserves a chef’s kiss. If you’ve worked up an appetite after a round of golf, try Linx Tavern over at The Villages and enjoy an al fresco meal on the patio. Rumor has it that the young new chef at Linx Tavern makes a mean Zucchini Guacamole.
“After exploring your surroundings, head to Ocean Terrace for an evening cocktail which overlooks Cape Cod Bay and where the views of the orange and pink sunsets just can’t be missed.”
With a full heart and satisfied stomach get ready to explore some of the activities offered on resort grounds. The beauty of staying at Ocean Edge Resort & Golf Club is that there are plenty of activities to enjoy, private or otherwise. To ensure fun for the whole family, the resort even has a Director of FUN who curates seasonal activities and tours. Two of the most popular activities during the summer season are the Front Lawn Pop-Up and the beach bonfires. The Front Lawn Pop Up transforms the spacious Mansion lawn into an open-air hangout with local beers, bites, and live music while the beach bonfires provide a lowkey gathering with s’mores and cocktails perfect for relaxing and watching the epic sunsets.
Another activity at the top of anyone’s list should include the Oyster Bed Tour where guests can get up close and personal with the shelling industry. You can book a private tour for just your group or participate in a complimentary tour to learn about the aquaculture and the importance the tide plays in the farming of the oysters. If you’re new to oyster shucking, like many people are, you will want to ask a lot of questions. Tour leader and farmer Brian Daley does an incredible job of explaining the whole process of how oysters get to restaurant tables. Another pro tip: oysters are best eaten during months that have an ‘r’ in them.
Pick up a daily calendar of events at the lobby to discover fun for the whole family. Most private activities like private golf lessons, are offered for an additional fee.
No resort stay is complete without experiencing the spa. The cottage-like Beach House Spa is inspired by the Cape Cod seashore and offers full-body massages, facials, and salon services. In the spa lobby guests can do a little shopping in the new retail space that houses luxury items and brands such as Stoney Clover and Electric Picks Jewelry. When you’re called for your treatment head towards the back where you’ll enter the relaxation room and five treatment rooms including one for couples’ treatments. Be sure to ask for the Spa Director, Wendy to give you the scoop on the best treatments! To add to the ambiance, peaceful art pieces from local artists line the halls for visual pleasure and are also available for purchase.
Future brides rejoice! If you’re planning a wedding or in the midst of rescheduling because of the pandemic you’ll want to explore the possibility of a ceremony at Ocean Edge. With eight different venues to hold activities and ceremonies you’ll be pining for a Coastal Cape wedding.
As much as you’ll want to stay on resort grounds, there’s also so much to do and see in Brewster and the surrounding area. Brewster is dubbed by locals as the art beat of Cape Cod, so head out on one of the Ocean Edge bikes to discover the art galleries that line Main Street or detour to Nickerson State Park. Stop by the Brewster General Store for souvenirs and grab some ice cream at Brewster Scoop located just next door. If you’re interested in venturing out for a meal or two Brewster Fish House comes highly recommended from the Ocean Edge staff.
Other highly recommended activities include Monomoy Island Excursions, Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown, Cape Cod Beer Brewery, Truro Vineyards, and a Brewster Whitecaps baseball game. As a guest of Ocean Edge, you can also take advantage of perks like complimentary admission to the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History and Cape Cod Museum of Art.
If you’re up for a day’s adventure you won’t want to miss your chance at whale watching with Hyannis Whale Watcher Cruises. The tour provides a unique and safe whale watching experience. Throughout the trip, guests will be provided with an engaging, entertaining, and educational narrative, not to mention the incredible chance to spot whales, seals, and dolphins.
Extend your trip a few days and enjoy day trips around The Cape while keeping Ocean Edge as your home base. Its central location will get you to Hyannis in about 30 minutes where you can hop on the Hy-Line Ferry to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. While in Hyannis don’t forget to wave to the Kennedys where their famed vacation compound is located.
The west coast of Scotland reminds visitors that some parts of the British Isles are still truly wild. The pretty fishing village of Port Appin clings to the rugged coastline, looking out across the mythical sounding Lynn of Lorn. An area of outstanding natural beauty, it is a gateway to the islands and the sea. Whales, dolphins, and porpoises feed beneath the dramatic sea cliffs, whilst eagles, buzzards, and falcons circle overhead, swooping down now and then for a snack.
In this place where land and water meet, anglers and seafood lovers find themselves in heaven. Scottish salmon is rightly world famous, and the nearby River Awe boasts large stocks of freshwater trout as well as salmon. Sailing out on strikingly beautiful Loch Etive, even amateur fishermen can reel in the mackerel. And with a longer day afloat on Loch Linnhe or the Sound of Mull, the tantalising potential catch extends to more than a dozen species, including pollock and skate, dogfish, rays, and whiting.
I am a strong believer in farm to fork eating, though in this instance it should perhaps be called sea to spoon, or loch to lunch table, instead. I began my culinary journey at Inverawe in Argyll, a family run fishery and smokehouse with a Royal Warrant to supply smoked goods and hampers to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Inverawe’s four trout lochs are well stocked with rainbow trout, and beginners can hone their angling skills with a fly fishing lesson on Hugo’s Lochan. There are no trees around this particular loch, so casting is snag free, and you can learn about the different kinds of tackle and techniques, as well as the environment and law.
Although you can take the fish away fresh, it tastes even better once smoked. Inverawe has been smoking fish — and smoked salmon in particular — for more than 40 years, and the smokery still uses British oak log fires in old fashioned brick smoke boxes. The wood is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council so you can be confident that it is responsibly managed. This traditional style of smoking is a time consuming process: every batch of fish takes up to 36 hours to smoke, more than three times longer than it would in a modern kiln. But as Inverawe’s exhibition about the history and craft of fish smoking reveals, this extra effort is definitely worth it for the superior taste. You can try the award winning smoked salmon and other products in the cafe, pick up some treats for a picnic, and even arrange for the salmon to be shipped back to you at home, negating the risk of having luggage which smells of fish.
In the mid afternoon I returned to Port Appin, checking in at the family run The Pierhouse Hotel. In the 19th century, this building was the home of the Pier Master, who was responsible for overseeing the cargo and passengers boarding the steam boats traveling across Loch Linnhe from Oban to Fort William. When Scotland’s road and railway infrastructure replaced the steam boats, this historic property at the end of the pier was sold, and since 1992 it has been the finest place in town to experience authentic highland hospitality.
There are just 12 en suite guest rooms at The Pierhouse Hotel, making it intimate enough to feel like a private home. The hotel is so close to the water that you can arrive by yacht, in which case moorings are provided. The rooms all have majestic views out to sea or along the cliffs, and from the two Superior Sea View rooms you can look right out across Loch Linnhe to the islands of Lismore and Shuna. It is a place to sit, stare out the windows, and gulp in the spectacular scenery around you. And, somehow, the weather doesn’t seem to matter: it looks as dramatic on a dark and stormy day as it does when bright sunlight is drenching the coast and sparkling on the surface of the water.
The Pierhouse Hotel’s first draw is its geographical position; the second is its food and drink. And, when you think about it, the two are intrinsically linked. Head Chef Michael Leathley uses only the finest seasonal Scottish produce on his menus, and he works closely with local suppliers. The Pierhouse Hotel’s location therefore dictates what Michael prepares and you eat.
Take, for example, the lobsters and crabs, the crustaceans at the center of any self respecting seafood platter. Most chefs would count themselves incredibly lucky if they could get their shellfish from the boat to the table within 48 hours. Michael’s time frames for creating his signature Pierhouse Platter are rather shorter. The creels hang from the end of the pier, so in no more than five minutes he can hand pick a fresh lobster from the water and bring it to the kitchen. Other ingredients hardly travel much further: the Loch Creran oyster beds are 15 minutes’ drive away, and the mussels and langoustines are both harvested from Loch Linnhe and Loch Etive. The smoked salmon, of course, is from the Inverawe smokehouse. You really can’t get fresher than that, and so diners go wild for the seafood on offer.
The Pierhouse Platter is a feast, the simplicity of the seafood speaking for itself. But Michael’s understated style of cooking is best enjoyed through tasting a variety of dishes during your stay, as it is then you will experience the nuanced combination of flavours. Imagine, for example, the Loch Creran Oysters complimented by the tanginess of shallot and Orkney sugar kelp vinegar; or creel caught Loch Linnhe langoustines served chilled with a confit garlic aïoli. The recipes typically have few ingredients but are perfectly executed; that is where the gastronomic magic lies.
If seafood is not your thing, a stay at The Pierhouse Hotel would probably be wasted on you, but there is no chance at all that you would go hungry. Michael sources his meats — including wild hill venison — from Letterfinlay near Fort William, and so you know that shortly before you eat them, the deer will have been running wild and free on Scotland’s private estates. You can try local Scottish favourites Macsweens haggis and Stornaway black pudding (a traditional spiced blood sausage) at breakfast; all the milk is from Wee Isle Dairy on the Isle of Gigha; and the mouthwatering selections of cheeses are all sourced from cheesemakers in Kintyre, the Isle of Mull, and Ayrshire. More often than not you will be able to count your food miles on one hand, which is not only great news for the environment but also ensures every mouthful you eat tastes of the specific soils, waters, and winds of Scotland’s west coast.
I have been so fixated on the food at The Pierhouse Hotel that I almost forgot to mention the drinks, which would have been a terrible oversight. The Ferry Bar looks out over Loch Linnhe and the pier, and the drinks selection has been just as carefully curated as the restaurant menu. This is Scotland, so of course malt whiskys are available in abundance. In fact, there are more than 100 on the malt whisky list, organised by region, so there is a dram for every palate and budget. The whiskeys from the island of Lismore, just a short ferry ride away from the hotel, deserve particular mention: everything from William Lundie in Speyside, Lismore is produced for export to the USA, but The Ferry Bar has special permission to serve their aged single malts, the 8, 12, 18, and 21 year olds, plus a special 21 year old called Legend.
Scottish gins are growing in popularity, too, and so The Ferry Bar is an ideal location to educate yourself about the country’s craft gin scene. International favorites such as Tanqueray, Bombay Sapphire, and Monkey 47 are on the menu, but my tip is to put these aside in favor of one (or more!) of the 30+ more unusual Scottish gins you are unlikely to find elsewhere. Arbikie Kirsty’s, distilled in Arbroath, counts thistle and kelp amongst its botanicals; the heather and red clover typical of Scottish golf courses feature in the flavor profile of Eden Mill Golf; and my personal favorite, Jura Lussa, is fragrant with lemon thyme and coriander. And, if I may add, it is hard to beat a gin and tonic with a sliver of smoked salmon or wild venison from the bar snacks menu before you make your way through to the hotel’s restaurant for dinner.
