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Swellegant Tierra Patagonia

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Tierra Patagonia Adventure Spa
Patagonia

Patagonia feels like the very end of the world. Looking out from this, the southernmost part of the continent, there’s
nothing but rugged wilderness and ocean until you reach Antarctica. But in this wild and isolated spot, you will find
something rare and precious: complete peace.

The Tierra Patagonia Adventure Spa is a property which hardly looks real. In fact, it is so interwoven with the landscape of the Torres del Paine National Park that it would be easy to look past it if you didn’t know it was there. The organic curves of the building, the
wooden skeleton, and grassy slopes make it feel as if the hotel is growing naturally from the Earth. Once you are inside and looking out, there’s no sign of human habitation or other man made marks on the land, only the sparkling waters of Lake Sarmiento and beyond
that the magnificent snow capped peaks of Patagonia.

Arriving at Tierra Patagonia, you sit beside the fire with a guide, a vast map of the national park unrolled before you. Together, you pinpoint the places you most want to explore, and discuss the exhilarating ways in which you can reach them. One day you might kayak
along the shores of the lake; the next you could rise before daybreak and ride on horseback to a viewpoint to watch the sunrise; and on the third day you could hike or mountain bike along virgin trails. Tired but thrilled with each new adventure, you can then return
to the comforts of the hotel, relaxing in the warm waters of the Uma Spa with the silhouette of the Paine Massif spread out in a panorama before you.

Tierra Patagonia’s understated rooms all look towards the mountains, the beguiling views ever changing as the light shifts throughout the day. The pale wood panels, driftwood sculptures, sheepskin rugs, and chairs printed with the shapes of local fossils add texture to the space, and make it feel that there is continuity with the natural world. Deep soak bathtubs entice you, and offer an alternative viewpoint from which to admire the remarkable, wild vista outside.

http://www.journeysmiths.co.uk/post/accommodation/tierra-patagonia

Swellegant Stay – Isla Bella

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Breathtaking ocean views start the story of Isla Bella. That is, after a quick ride in a Moke, driven by your valet, and a jaw-dropping stroll through the coconut-lined pathway to your accommodations. Moment after moment, the resort opens itself up to you with
new eye-catching treats. The decor is a brilliant mix of classic Keys and contemporary beach house. The ocean is invited into view through wide, floor to ceiling, glass doors and an airy balcony. This resort is only two hours south of Miami and is more than worthy of a dedicated road trip. With a wide, sandy beach beneath your feet, you can stroll between its five pools, one of which is 4,500 square feet. That’s a lot of pool. There’s an intimate spa and a sizable fitness center, so there’s every excuse to pamper yourself and stay
fit. You will want to do that after indulging in some of the fantastic dining options that range from wood fired pizzas, Italian staples, to Keys seafood. Let’s not forget the tropical cocktails that never seem to stop flowing. Isla Bella makes it easy to stay active, as well.
The resort sits on the water where marina and water sport activities are seconds away. Getting out on the water is a must when visiting, don’t just sit back and take in the one mile of oceanfront, go get wet.

 

As alluring as all of that is, there is a certain tug that the Tiki hut seating on the beach has over every guest. It can be nice to sit and chill and look out over the dunes before getting involved in a game of Bocce ball or cornhole. There are choices to be made and games to be played. There are no wrong choices here. I can see some people not ever wanting to leave their balcony or guestroom. It’s got the best views and makes the most out of indoor/outdoor living, which is the hallmark of the Florida Keys. We say live it up at Isla Bella Beach Resort.

 

http://www.islabellabeachresort.com

 

 

 

 

Letter From North America – Key West

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Dear John,

Yes, this is one of those letters. I am writing because, although I love being with you, I need a break. The level of familiarity thrust upon us this year, due to you know what, has made me grow weary. There’s a place that I have discovered that offers me more of what I
need to feel alive. Here I look out on the horizon, just beyond the marina, and watch the sun set. My terrace gives me all the personal space I need, yet I feel safe and nurtured here, while still being a part of it all. Everything about this hotel is quite unique, and I am
not just saying that because it has taken me out of our kitchen, bedroom, backyard, den, dining room, repeat — routine. I mention it because from its unrepeated position within this popular destination, to its modern sexy appeal, life feels lovely from here and that’s exactly why I chose it over staying with you. I wanted to be on the water, in graceful accommodations; swim in pools when I wanted, have water sports options at my disposal, and be close enough to touch the history and shenanigans that couple so nicely here and make this part of Florida famous, if not infamous. I was seeking this without being at the epicenter of it all, you know how fond I have grown of social distancing. I found six pools, paddleboards, bikes, and kayaks and a staff that paid attention to my every wish. With you, I grew to know you more than I ever thought possible. If you’re wondering where I have gone…I have left you for
Oceans Edge Resort & Marina. Here, I am discovering all the things I have been missing this year, and much to my surprise, I found them in Key West.

If you come looking for me, you’ll most likely start your search near the cornhole game lawn where you’d assume I was sipping a cocktail and tossing bean bags before deciding which pool to plunge into. I won’t be there. Your next move may be to hop on the resort
shuttle and head into the heart of Key West where you will probably assume I am shopping, and partaking in some of the fun on Duval Street, but I won’t be there either. I won’t be in the museums, soaking up the treasures this island’s history is so rich with, but I will
be somewhere else. I will be living life at what feels like, the edge of the earth. I will be in my waterfront suite, sipping bubbly on the terrace, watching boats go by and relishing in the fact that I made the best decision by leaving home to recharge, at my own pace
at Oceans Edge.

Don’t keep searching for me as I want this stay to last as long as possible. If I return to you, I will be a better person having taken this trip. We may need to redecorate, as I have found inspiration in the gorgeous finishes of the suite here. If you want me to stay with
you upon my return, your time would be better spent searching for just the right supple bed linens, an inviting accent chair, and how to get your hands on a (now necessary) fully stocked wet bar for our home. Search for those things to remind me of my time here in the Florida Keys.

Yours…(maybe, maybe not),

Peta

 

*My house, personified in this letter as John, has truly taken on a personality of its own and is and probably resonates with many of us. I did indeed return to John, but the memories made at Oceans Edge have left me longing to return. Let’s see where this long distance
romance leads.

http://www.oceansedgekeywest.com

Catching up in Old Montreal

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Old Montreal

In the Autumn issue, I wrote “A Letter from North America
Montreal, Canada”

Montreal

It alluded to a feature further in the magazine,then the hurricane hit the Bahamas and we retooled much of the magazine to dedicate pages to our friends in the islands. I inadvertently left the mention of the larger piece in the letter from. You can read it below and then I’ll catch you at the end of the letter with the rest of the story. Here’s the letter. I hope you enjoy it (again):

Bonjour…

Everything is turning and changing in this city. I’m not saying that because it’s autumn and the weather is no longer warm and the leaves are no longer a vibrant green. I am saying this because Montreal has so many revitalization projects under way that the city is visibly changing before our eyes. These changes are for the better and are we happy that we got to spend a few days exploring Old Montreal.
This part of the city dates back to the 17th century and its cobblestone streets are intrinsic reminders of its age. For those who are not prone to looking down while walking, there are buildings that were once pillars of the community, with their imposing architectural facades, now turned hip café and co-working spaces that go by solo monikers like, Crew. This city is swanky, sexy, hip and cool. We have barely had reason to leave Old Montreal (Vieux Montreal) which is aptly known (in French and In English) as the historic center of the city of Montreal. The antiquity
only endears the city more to one’s heart. Be not fooled by the terms old or vieux. There is such vibrancy here! We ate at Ikanos on night one where we were invited to discover Mediterranean cuisine, so fresh we felt like we were in Greece, with a distinct twist only found in Montreal. Staff are so ready to share their passion about every aspect of the restaurant. From the Josper Oven grill seafood that unmistakably carries the flavor of the embers from the kitchen to the palate. We spent a wonderful evening in this cozy restaurant atop a short flight of stairs inside, yet another, historic building on McGill street.
Tomorrow Will be an afternoon exploring even more of Montreal and ending the evening at Aura, in the Notre-Dame Basilica. That’s a light extravaganza that is set to music that is said to reveal the riches of the Basilica. We can hardly wait. Take a look at the features of Montreal, also in this issue, and go a little deeper into our views of the city.

A bientot,

Old Montreal Caffe

Time in Ireland

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Kilke Castle

My good friend time, presented a gift, in the form of a one hour drive from downtown Dublin, I’m threading Kilkea Castle’s enticing tree-lined canopy, a tunnel of leaves trunks and branches, an entry to a building of wood and stone construction in the 12th Century that culminates today with its magnificent staff. Lee Ann greets me at check in with a brief history of the site, construction began in 1180 when Sir Walter Riddlesford received the castle for distinguished military service in a local military campaign. A few centuries later Jay and Christie Cashman were married in Ireland, fell in love with castles. When this one came on the market, they purchased it and completed a $40 million 4 1/2 year refurbishment a few months ago. This included adding a brand new spa, where in addition to everything I expected to find in the luxury facilitys, there were six treatment rooms, and executive gym, a hydrotherapy room, and then there’s the state of the art thermal suite, beauty lounge and Elmis Biotech treatments.

drawing room

On my walk to the pro shop I bump into someone who happens to be Kilkea’s development manager Reamonn, gives me some of the property’s highlights: In the castle itself, one has a choice of either the suite, or one of eleven rooms, dining in the 1180 restaurant, drinks in The Keep bar or relaxation in The Drawing Room lounge. A few yards beyond the castle the next category of Kilkea’s accommodation is one of l30 carriage house rooms, each appointed in the 5 star plus category, beyond these options is the choice of 99 Lodge bedrooms, classed as 4 Star deluxe.

After meandering between spa, luxury accommodation options and 18 hole championship course, I realize it’s time for tea where I get my first taste, pun intended, of Executive Head Chef David McKane’s stated philosophy to take diners on a “culinary journey” that blends the area’s classic rural Irish roots with modern presentations. I relax in a purple velvet chair, the respite accompanied by soft piano music and the Irish Independent newspaper. Choices choices, choices, will I put raspberry jam, honey or black currant on my scone? What about the ham with Dijon on white bread finger sandwiches? Perhaps house salmon on a brown soda bread or crab as a prelude to chocolate fudge cake, just before the big finish, creme brulee and/or blueberry and almond tart? Well, both time and a hearty appetite are my friends.

Morning at the Castle

Because in a few hours it’s dinner at the castle’s restaurant, 1180, I hope Cathriona is still on the dinner waitress shift, because my reservation at an alcove table in a hunk of 5 foot thick castle wall calls for another evening with the tasting menu, while it changes almost nightly, tonight I’ve decided to indulge in tuna, wood pigeon, seabass, venison, spiced pineapple, and peanut parfait … or have I? Maybe I’ll choose a la carte seabass or Dexter Beef in truffle jus with pomme puree? Have I mentioned time is one of my very good friends?

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

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Downpatrick Head

I Went Wild…

while walking along Ireland’s rugged West Coast. I suddenly feel like waxing poetic. It could be the verdant fields and steep cliffs of this side of the Emerald Isle. There is something very magical about this country and this part of it, in particular. I began my walking tour in the region of Mayo, situated on Ireland’s western seaboard, renowned for its remote, wild and spectacular landscapes. Being a bit of an outdoor enthusiast, I thought I would start here. It has the perfect setting for those of us who love being in the great outdoors and nature lovers. There is a vast array of outdoor activities and experiences and on this journey, I wanted to experience Ireland from the outside in. Adventure was on tap for me this go round.

Achill Island, Co. Mayo Atlantic Way

Rather than tackling the cliffs straight away…

I opted to stroll around the town of Westport before Diving in the countryside. The small Georgian town can trace its history back 5,000 years. Its colourful past includes links to an infamous Pirate Queen called Grace O’Malley who used the town as one of her strongholds where she ruled the seas far and wide. The town has all the charm you can imagine; an old clock tower, quaint bridges that span the Carrowbeg River, flanked by tree-lined streets that look straight out of a fairytale. Most of Ireland reminds me of a magical land filled with imaginary beings on the other side of the brow of every hill. Westport just so happened o be my first stop. After strolling through the town, I realized that it was also the starting point for the Great Western Greenway, a cycling and walking trail. I was less ambitious than most, having just arrived from the States, and ventured out a few miles and returned to town rather than taking the journey to Achill Island. I figured I would rest up overnight and then take a drive out to the island and take in the views of some of Europe’s highest cliffs as I tried my hand at some stand up paddle boarding. I figured the juxtaposition of me being a dot on the water against the backdrop of such magnificent natural wonders would be nothing short of spectacular and indeed I was correct.

Choices and vantage points abound on this lovely island in the Atlantic. The very next morning, I decided to go on a guided cultural adventure with the Bourke family through this ‘Area of Special Scenic Importance’ as designated by the EU. We took a stroll through a valley and native woodland and got to enjoy panoramic views of Mweelra Mountain, Wild Atlantic Way islands and views of the entrance to Ireland’s only fjord at Killary Harbour. The walk took a little longer than the family usually takes because it had just been lambing season and I could not pass up the opportunity to feed the baby lambs their milk, right from a bottle. They tugged and slurped as I held the sticky milk bottle and there was nowhere else on the planet I would have rather been. The most adorable creatures eating out of my hands as we stop atop an undulating hill with historic potato mounds beneath our feet. There was a lot to this scene, both seen and unseen. As the lambs drained the bottles and I regained my footing to carry on my w alk,

I got a bit of a history lesson on the famine in Ireland. As Mr. Bourke recounted his family’s generations on the land, I could retrace his every step. There were school days, where –as a child, he would cross an expanse of land (some of it was under water at times, depending on the tide) to get over a hill to get to school. There were memories pouring out of him about his grandparents and survival on the land and of these potato beds. Then there was the Fairy Tree, found standing by itself in the center of a field. I had to stop and take it all in. This was the absolute definition of a Fairy tree. These are trees whose presence are supposed to be the sacred ground of the “wee folk” of Ireland. Folklore abounds in Ireland and I am here for every last word of it. Steeped in history, my every step was a walk through the pages of a book that could not merely be read. This has to be experienced. Wending my way long the Wild Atlantic Way, which is a very well demarcated region along the west coast of the country, I learned about this land in the most authentic and memorable way. On my next stop, I walked on to the Glen Keen Farm where the family-run land yielded an ven closer look at this amazing history, after gorgeous homemade scones and jams. The sustenance was just wat was needed before I embarked upon a turf cutting demonstration and sheep dog herding. If you’ve never cut turf, you have yet to truly unearth some of Ireland’s most earthy history.

This had to be one of the coolest experiences of my life. Bogs hold so much of this country’s ancestral history that cutting bog is an adventure in itself. Sure, it’s hard work, but so well worth it. The cut bog is stacked in the fields to dry and is then turned into fuel for the furnaces still used in many homes in these rural parts of the country. Many artifacts have been found buried within the bogs of Ireland. There’s bog butter, bog bodies, pottery and other treasures. The bog butter was fascinating to me. These bogs are natural preservation grounds and I can definitely dig that.

Bay Coast - Achill Island, Co. Mayo

Seeing Ireland this way…

from a walking perspective was extremely grounding. Getting around the Wild Atlantic Way by car, foot, and bike is easy and added so much to my vacation. The Great Western Greenway from Achill island to Mulranny is so accessible and an easy ride, although the route may sound daunting. This cycling/walking route has been developed on an old railway line. The ride was not tiring at all and I finished the day with a walk along the Claggan Mountain boardwalk and coastal trail at Ballycroy National Park – one of Ireland’s six national parks.This one is comprised of Atlantic blanket bog surrounded by mountainous terrain – it’s a truly unspoilt wilderness overlooked by the Nephin Beg mountain. The hiking and biking did not take my breath away in the same way these vistas did. Dressed appropriately for all four seasons, I never wanted to be inside out of fear I may miss even one of these spectacular views. With only a short time left on this beautiful coast, I kickstarted my day with some more Wild Atlantic Way fre air at Erris Head and took a 5km guided looped walk of this stunning headland. More unbeatable views and memories.With one last stop in the rugged outdoors I decided to explore the Ceide Fields, an extensive Stone Age monument dating back over 5,000 years.

It was time to reenter the 21st century and the modern niceties of Ireland. I overnighted in Ballina and stayed at the au courant Ice House. This stay was just the one I needed to ease my way back into reality of the modern day. The Wild Atlantic Way is such a refreshing way to see Ireland that I plan to make it an annual trip. I think you should plan to see the Emerald Isle any way you can, but a brisk walk down this coast is highly recommended.

Should you fly in to Dublin, follow in my footsteps:

Stop at the Horseshoe Bar, Mullingar Park Hotel for casual lunch en route to Westport.
www.mullingarparkhotel.com

Dinner in Westport
www.ciansonbridgestreet.com

Hike the Lost Valley
www.thelostvalley.ie

Glen Keen Farm
www.glenkeenfarm.com

Hotel
www.mulrannyparkhotel.ie

Great Western Greenway
www.greenway.ie

Ballycroy National Park
www.ballycroynationalpark.ie

Overnight in The Broadhaven Bay Hotel in Belmullet.
www.broadhavenbay.com/rooms.html

Erris Head
www.tourismpurewalking.com

Ceide Fields
www.heritageireland.ie/en/west/ceidefields

Explore Downpatrick head.
www.tourismpurewalking.com

Hotel:
www.icehousehotel.ie

Stop for light refreshments at Strokestown House café.

www.strokestownpark.ie

We Love California too – Alisal Ranch

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Sun Morning Ride

We Love California too

Alisal Ranch

The guest experience at Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort just got a little swankier. Thanks to Nathan Turner. The designer whose style is synonymous with “the easy glam of California living” has designed the interiors of a set of guest cottages at this iconic guest ranch into everything we love about California. We got on our swanky cowboy and cowgirl (California-style) duds and drove the half hour north of Santa Barbara to spend a few days with the designer and his latest curation. Everything about the weekend was low-key amazing and high-key fabulous.

Alisal Ranch Entrance

The ranch is always stunning upon entrance at the tree-lined drive welcomes guests, bit Nathan added to the expected splendor. As I made my way across the grass to the twinkling bistro lights hung near a roaring fire pit, the clinking of glasses warmed the crisp California air. As soon as I approached, it was clear that our host for the weekend at the ranch was going to show us a good time. Within seconds of arriving, I had the signature cocktail of the event placed in my hands. Nathan’s Pomegranate Champagne Cocktail went down so easily, the second one was in hand in short order.

Cheers turned into cheers as we drifted from the ranch’s patio setting to a private dining room where a bountiful table of locally-sourced roses that looked like peonies overflowed their vases to touch deer antlers and persimmons. The care that Natah took to intertwine the rustic with the softness of this land was as obvious as the meal was delicious.Course after course, we dined and sipped wines as though turning the pages of his “I Love California” book that is the grail of designing and entertaining the West Coast way.
Which just so happens to be my favorite way. The come as you are attitude coupled with an air of sophistication and joy is one of the ways I describe the feelings evoked by Nathan’s style. He’s a son of the soil not far from this ranch so his ability to transform what is first nature to him into an experience that highlights the very best of the land and its surroundings to others is second nature and second to none.

Alisal Library

The pleasure of staying at this secluded jewel tucked into California’s famed Santa Ynez Valley and explore some of its 10,000-acres, as it effortlessly melds the spirit of the Old West with the seductive charms of today’s most relaxing resorts, while being hosted by Nathan was a treat. He shared with us tips and tricks on decorating a table and hosting friends. Then he gave us the first look at his newly designed cottages at Alisal. Here again, he outdid himself. Effortlessly maneuvering between the great outdoors that were just a step away and the cozy warmth of a fire-warmed cabin experience replete with up-to-date wood paneled walls. I was obsessed and wanted to stay in the cottage but there were hayrides to margaritas and horseback rides o breakfast to be taken. We have been to Alisal before, but experiencing it through the gracious lens of a shared experience gave this classic California getaway a new level of enjoyment. We love Nathan’s book as a perfect reminder of how to enjoy life, even when not at Alisal.

The ranch has a full calendar of events for the year ahead and we may just pop back up for their Unbridled Retreat which is being held for the first time on May3-6, 2020. It is slated to be an intimate 4-day, 3-night itinerary full of hands-on interactions with horses, facilitated by globally recognized Equine Gestalt Coach, Devon Combs, Founder of Unbridled Retreats. Guests will experience Alisal’s luxury accommodations with scheduled daily activities designed to help them find the clarity, confidence and courage to move from the path they “should” be on, to the one their hearts crave, all while meeting a supportive group of like-minded women. Combs has a unique synergy with horses and her expert intuitive coaching provides profound breakthroughs to women who seek to unlock their unlimited potential. “I’m excited to offer the Unbridled Retreat in the Santa Ynez Valley.

Ranch

Alisal is the perfect setting for the Unbridled Retreat – an idyllic place to unplug, reconnect, and gain clarity. The magic of this 10,500-acre ranch and the healing power of horses will provide profound breakthroughs for women seeking positive change.” says Combs. After checking-in to a luxe ranch suite where a welcome gift awaits, the retreat officially begins with an opening ceremony and the first look at what is sure to be a life-changing experience. Over the course of four days, Devon will guide participants through two personalized equine gestalt coaching sessions. No visit to Alisal is complete without sampling the local cuisine. Daily breakfast, lunch, and dinner is included in the retreat with food that captures the essence of California cooking paired with the depth of flavor and heartiness of Western ranch cooking.

Guests will also participate in one of Alisal’s Signature Breakfast Rides to the historic AlisalAdobe on horseback or by hay wagon. Guests can also partake in complimentary wine tastings at a host of nearby Santa Ynez Valley wineries. The retreat closes with another ceremony to reflect on the learnings, leaving guests with a renewed focus. Space is limited to 12 guests and no horse experience is necessary to attend. The Unbridled Retreat includes accommodation in one of Alisal’s suites featuring a king bed, spacious living area, and wood-burning fireplace complete with authentic Western décor, exquisite linens, coffee makers, and refrigerators. Meals, all activities and welcome amenity also included. Guests can book their Unbridled Retreat experience online or by calling (800) 425-4725. Check the website to see when Nathan may be hosting another event at Alisal. You’ll want to book that!
www.alisal.com

Letter from Europe – Dorset, England

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Letter from England

Letter from Europe: Dorset, England

Dear friends,

The cliffs of Lyme Regis on the south coast of England are full of secrets. This is the Jurassic Coast — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — where some of the earliest and most significant discoveries of dinosaurs were found. Walking along the beach at Lyme Bay you can still pick up fossils from amongst the pebbles and sea-smoothed glass, and as each winter storm batters the rocks, more and more layers of prehistory are laid bare.

lyme-regis

Hollywood turned its eyes on Lyme Regis this past year as Kate Winslet and Saoirse Ronan descended on the sleepy little town. They’ve been filming Ammonite, the story of 19th century fossil hunter and paleontologist Mary Anning. A dissenter and a woman, Anning never became a household name: her male peers in the scientific community would not accept her or her work. I hope that’s about to change. The film will be released in early 2020, finally giving Anning the recognition she deserves.

Exploring Lyme Regis today, it seems very little has changed since the 1840s when Ammonite is set. The old harbour wall still protects the town from the powerful waves of the English Channel; the working water mill is some 700 years old; and you can pick out the boarding houses and hotels where the likes of Jane Austen, Hilaire Beloc, and Alfred Lord Tennyson stayed. Mary Anning’s own birthplace is appropriately now the site of Lyme Regis Museum, and there’s a fossil museum in the converted church.

Dorchester

I am staying this week above the town, looking out through private gardens and across Lyme Bay. The Alexandra Hotel & Restaurant was built in 1735 for the Dowager Countess Poulett, and it has been a family run hotel for the past 120 years. In that century, the owners have perfected the art of hospitality: service is discreet and understated, but nothing is too much trouble.

I’d requested The Countess’s Room: I wanted to feel like a 19th century lady of leisure in Lyme Regis for a fossil hunting adventure, possibly with a literature-worthy love affair thrown in. The huge bay windows look straight out to sea, and though today is bright and sunny, I imagine it’s also a fantastic place to sit dry and warm when a dramatic storm blows in. The
decor here is quintessentially English and undeniably tasteful, and there are plenty of local touches. The Algotherm cosmetics in the bathroom are made with marine extracts, so it feels as if the fresh, salty sea air and the beach have been brought inside.

Dining at The Alexandra so far has been an indulgent treat. The main restaurant won gold at the 2018/19 Taste of the West awards, and many of the ingredients on the menu have been caught or farmed in and around Lyme Bay. In fact, if you choose to spend an afternoon out fishing and bring back your catch, the chef will even prepare and cook it for you! I am already eyeing up the hand picked Brixham crab and Lyme Bay lobster for tonight, which I will eat in the hotel’s brand new Ammonite Orangery.

Dorchester

One of the things I love about staying in historic places such as The Alexandra Hotel is the eclectic collection of buildings. This morning whilst taking a stroll around the gardens, I found the Lookout Tower. It is a curious little structure, a folly really, but I can imagine a lovesick Victorian lady sat here waiting indefinitely for a long gone lover to return. The Lookout Tower looks down on Cobb Harbour, and on a clear day you would be able to see the sails of a ship fluttering even whilst it was miles out at sea. It would be an idyllic spot for an intimate wedding ceremony in Dorset, or for a private dinner party: you can hire it with friends for exclusive use, and an award winning chef will prepare whatever you fancy.

I first came to Lyme Regis as a child 30 years ago, and even then it felt like a town that time and the rest of the world had forgotten. The Victorian fossil hunters were long gone, even if plenty of dinosaur fossils remained. The release of Ammonite will no doubt bring fame and a new generation of visitors, but the peace and quiet of a stay at The Alexandra Hotel & Restaurant will remain. Best wishes from my blustery beachside retreat,

http://www.hotelalexandra.co.uk

Letter from Asia – India

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Taj Mahal

Letter from Asia… India’s Golden Triangle

Namaste!

I’m living a fairytale in India. I followed an elephant down the road, and stopped to chat with his mahout.In a palace I was greeted by a genuine princess, and we drank tea on the terrace while peacocks strutted by. Priests garlanded with marigolds set tea lights adrift on the lake after dark, and on the surface of the water their dancing mirrors the twinkling of stars overhead.

City Palace Golden Triangle

Travelling in India’s Golden Triangle, between the  historic cities of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, assaults and excites every sense  simultaneously. It seems as if a paintbox has exploded, spraying its rainbow of pigments everywhere I go. There’s the vermillion red of the ladies’ sindur, and the terracotta colored henna painting spiders web like patterns on their hands. Climbing the walls is a hot pink bougainvillea, and the girl who just sashayed past me in an electrifying orange shalwar kameez suit. I’ve bought shawls in every shade of blue, purple, and green, and the mango lassi I’m sipping on as I write is a golden yellow.

Jaipur dancers

The past few days have been a whirl, and I’m grateful for the chance to sit awhile in the calm, quiet garden of Oberoi Amarvilas. I need time to process the magical moment I set eyes on the Taj Mahal — the world’s most iconic monument to love — and watched as the early morning rays of light cast a blush rose glow on the marble dome. I posed, of course, like Princess Diana alone on that bench, but for me there was no feeling of melancholy. Rather, there was excitement to explore the Taj Mahal’s UNESCO gardens, admire the decorative floral inlay with its precious stones, and to listen as the mullah called the faithful to pray in the mosque. It’s a sound which has echoed around these walls five times a day, every day, for the best part of 400 years.

The Oberoi Amarvilas

Oberoi Amarvilas feels like a palace: I can easily imagine an Emperor or Maharaja standing and admiring the fountains, looking out from his balcony at the Taj Mahal, or swimming in the idyllic pool. Being able to retreat to a haven such as this is much needed: there’s an exhausting noise and chaos to the streets of Agra, which I’ve fought through on my way to the Agra Fort and the magnificent tomb of Akbar the Great at Sikandra.

There are so many monuments packed into the Golden Triangle that it would take a lifetime to visit and fully appreciate them all. I can therefore only tell you about a few of my favourites, places well worth a few hours of your time as a first time visitor to India, or as someone like myself who for a while made the country my home.

In Delhi, seven cities have been built on the same site, each one more impressive than the last. You can peel back thousands of years of history, making your way back in time as you walk through Lodhi Gardens, visit Humayun’s Tomb, or stroll through the bazaars of Chandni Chowk. In Jaipur, the most splendid sites are the royal palaces and the pink painted Old City, which in 2019 was finally named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

I love the City Palace and the Jantar Mantar astronomical observatory, the imposing Amber Fort, and the white wedding cake temple that is the Birla Mandir. Every other day there seems to be a festival: dancers, musicians, incense, and fireworks stimulate every sense.

Jaipur musician

Home from home in Jaipur is the Rambagh Palace, a former royal residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur which has been converted into a five star heritage hotel by the Taj Hotels group. The historic suites are the epitome of opulence with their silk furnishings, fine artworks, and antiques. Having watched a high stakes polo match at the nearby Rajasthan Polo Club, this is where I come to sip a gin and tonic at Steam, the royal train turned bar which is parked permanently in the grounds. Invariably I stay for dinner, either in the Suvarna Mahal (the Rambagh’s Renaissance style dining room), or outside, enveloped by the balmy evening air in the manicured gardens. The Dahi ke
kebab is marinated in yoghurt flavoured with fragrant saffron and cardamom, and the memory of the Dhundar murgh — slow cooked chicken with raw mango and mint — will stay a long time on my mind.I’m waiting for you to join me in the Golden Triangle. When can I expect you to come?

Jaipur dancers

 

 

 

Best wishes,
Sophie

Letter from Florida Keys

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Letter from Keys

Walking through an executive area of Ft Lauderdale International Airport, I’m ready for a some disconnection from the predictable schedule of city life, during my stay at the Adults Only (21 and older) All Inclusive Resort The Bungalows Key Largo. The all inclusive resort on Florida’s northernmost Key, is a relative stone’s throw by car from Miami, opened in December, 2019.

Waterfront Row

Even though we took off from a concrete runway and spent 45 minutes overflying The Everglades, we land on the tranquil waters of Key Largo’s Buttonwood Sound. I’m greeted and ferried by launch the last 100 yards to what I consider to be 12 acres of pleasure blending however many thousand bamboo plants among 135 bungalows, 3 restaurants, a Zen Garden Spa with optional cabana or poolside treatments, a fitness tiki hut, sugar-colored sand paths for walking or cycling, exotic flowers and stands of key lime trees populate the area me as I make landfall.

I feel a bit like Jimmy Buffet, famous for his seaplane piloting ability as the airplane’s a shortcut to The Bungalows’ address on US Highway’s Mile Marker 99, I realize how this property, completed in December, 2019, is a perfect place for couples seeking an intimate escape, some time to chill and reconnect with themselves, nature and each other. If more action is desired, I can take a snorkel adventure, go poolside, kayak, stand up or yoga on a paddleboard. If I are for a more relaxed time, the powered tiki boat or a complimentary guided tour of the area on one of The Bungalows’ electric boats.

Cabanas Daylight

The Bungalows offers the flexibility to explore unspoiled natural beauty in sync with The Keys vibe of a relaxed local culture. The deliberate design of a thoroughly casual cabana lifestyle allows this resort to caress my senses with maritime visual tones and a commitment to using natural materials and a reliance on local artisans to provide exceptional resort amenities to every one of their 135 individual bungalows, 31 of which are 900 SF with waterfront views, both categories have a private veranda complete with outdoor rain shower, or if I prefer to be horizontal, a soaking tub. If I were feeling more conventional I enjoy the view and refreshment indoors via my spa bathroom and Keurig coffee maker alongside the mini fridge stocked with my preferred snacks and beverages. I could cheat and look at the outside world via the 60” monitor equipped with Beyond TV.

Bicycle

But, that would be a luxurious cheat, because in The Keys one must revel in nature! And besides, housekeeping needs a chance at turndown service, so I check my schedule, yoga class? Before the catamaran cruise from our dock on Florida Bay through the mangroves, or a scenic paddle through this, one of the world’s unique Ecosystems? Ahhhh the luxury of choice.

I’ll consider them over lunch, I hop on my bungalow’s cruiser bike for a lunchtime trip to “Sea Senor” for some local seafood where I’ll slip off the bike’s leather seat, into the alfresco environment where leather chairs and palm fronds supplement “Senor’s” waterside location. Finishing my margarita about Noon, I scope my sunset meal’s location, “Fish Tales” one of the property’s other 2 restaurants whose view allows me to sandwich the sunset between The Bungalows’ infinity pool and the water, today I plan to be a landlubber, letting other guests take the resort’s sunset catamaran cruise.

“Fish Tales” offers breakfast to dinner service, grilled fish and peel and eat shrimp, grilled prime steak and freshly caught seafood specialties appeal to land and seafood lovers alike. But fear not, I’ll save the third restaurant “Bogie & Bacall’s” whose 5 course menu changes daily, showcasing daily fresh caught seafood, seasonal produce representing the sort of adventure one expects in The Keys. Digestives and aperitifs available at the Hemingway Bar. Were it not for the relaxed atmosphere of The Bungalows, I’d feel the pressure to be as cool as Ernie or Humphrey, but just to be sure, I’ll ease into my pretend movie star persona with cocktails at the property’s Sunset Tiki Bar because I never know when a fedora-topped stranger will glance my way and say “Here’s looking at you, Kid.”

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