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Swanky Sips: Hunter Valley, New South Wales

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I am a sucker for wine tours and seek them out in many of the destinations I visit, but the Hunter Valley in New South Wales seems particularly well suited to this kind of tourism. The area is close to Sydney, a two-hour drive away, so locals can pop up for the weekend, but at the same time there is enough to see and do to warrant traveling here from further afield. None of the vineyards are particularly large, and they are situated close enough together that you can easily cycle between them, visiting three or four different properties in a day. In that respect, the Hunter Valley feels a little like California’s Napa, but with added kangaroos.

My guides, Will and Liam, have spent quite a bit of the past two years working their way through the Hunter’s wineries, so I felt that I was in safe (or at least experienced) hands. As we drove out from Sydney in a roaring Toyota Hilux, the dark clouds threatened rain, despite it being the end of the Australian summer. I didn’t grumble too much, though: the grape vines were no doubt in need of a deluge, and their needs must come first.

We pulled up at Spicers Guesthouse and I did a double take. I am familiar with this style of colonial architecture from South Africa and Zimbabwe, but this was the first time I’d seen it in Australia. For good or bad, the British Empire spread its tentacles pretty much everywhere, so I shouldn’t have been surprised. Here were the perfectly manicured lawns surrounding a classic white farmhouse, and shady verandas where you could sit with a pot of tea enjoying the faint waft of breeze. Indoors, there are stone walls and open fireplaces where you can no doubt sit cozily, watching the dancing flames on a cold winter evening. The couches are well stuffed, interesting books are scattered on tables and shelves, and the ambience is best described as convivial. It’s a country house, a country club, an idyllic country retreat.

At Will and Liam’s insistence, we started our vineyard tour at Tyrrell’s, which conveniently is located less than five minutes away from the hotel. Tyrrell’s is one of the oldest wine companies in Australia, owned by the same family since 1858. Edward Tyrrell settled here from England, buying 320 acres of land in the Hunter Valley. His original ironbark hut still stands on the property. Around it he planted Semillon and Shiraz vines. 160 years on,  Bruce Tyrrell is the Managing Director, and his three children, Jane, John, and Christopher, all still work for the business. You could say that winemaking is in their blood, but their passion for their products is such that it is probably more accurate to say that it is in their hearts.

Tyrrell’s welcomes wine lovers through their cellar door every day of the week, but it is so popular that you need to book in advance. The purpose built tasting room has a clean, modern aesthetic so your attention remains focused on the wine, not the decor. The introductory level tasting packages, Tyrrell’s Tasting and the Single Vineyard Experience, are fine way to get a first sip of what Tyrrell’s can offer, but if you have a more demanding palate and really know your wines, book in for the Vat 1 Vertical Experience instead. It focuses on Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon, one of the Hunter Valley’s most iconic wines.

From Tyrrell’s we continued on to see Andrew Thomas, a man the Sydney Morning Herald declared to be “a shining light in the Hunter Valley.” Thomas Wines are renowned for their complex and refined Semillon but also a really classy Shiraz. With The Journey tasting you can mix and match as many as 15 wines from the wine list, shaping the session to your tastes or, as we did, letting the sommelier choose so that you can discover something new. Make sure you ask for the Braemore Semillon and Kiss Shiraz, two of Thomas’ flagship wines, and also the 2013 Elenay Shiraz, which was re-released from the cellars in small quantities in 2023.

I have mentioned Semilon quite a bit, because it really is the signature grape of the Hunter Valley. The species is native to Bordeaux in France, and at one stage it was probably the most planted grape variety in the world, dominating the vineyards of Australia and South Africa. The vines do well in warm climates, in part because they are fairly disease resistant, and on long, sunny days the fat, white grapes gain a pinkish hue. When it is young, Semillon wine has a fresh, almost citrusy taste and goes well with seafood, but if you are patient enough to wait for five to 10 years, it develops into something altogether richer. A bottle such as Thomas WInes’ 2016 Cellar Reserve Braemore has a taste reminiscent of roasted cashew nuts, or even buttered toast!

Though we had snacked throughout the tastings, we returned to Spicers Guesthouse for dinner. The menu at the hotel’s restaurant, éRemo, claims to be a celebration of Italian cuisine, but although Italy may have inspired Head Chef Jayden Casinelli, it really offers a prime opportunity to try contemporary Australian fine dining. And that’s a wonderful thing, because the fresh, seasonal produce in this part of the world is divine. Jayden and his team do masterful things with their ingredients, combining flavors and techniques in the most unexpected ways. Browsing through the a la carte menu you will be hard pushed to choose: should you start with the charred grapes with gorgonzola or the Wagyu bresaola with capers and truffle mayonnaise? And when it comes to main courses, should it be the market fish with saffron fennel, or the rib eye filet steak accompanied by celeriac remoulade and truffle pecorino? My only recommendation when faced with such complex quandaries is that you dine with two or more friends, all order something different, and are generous enough to share. Be sure to look at the wine list, too: it embodies the best of the Hunter Valley, and many of the wines are available by the glass so you can try something new with every course. When you do finally leave the table, there is no need to order a cab: your guest room will be waiting for you a few minutes’ walk away. 

www.spicersretreats.com

A Night of Sophistication: Bank & Bourbon at Loews Hotel, Philadelphia

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Introduction:

In the heart of historic Philadelphia, where cobblestone streets whisper tales of a bygone era, lies a modern haven of indulgence and refinement. Welcome to Bank & Bourbon, the crown jewel of the Loews Hotel, where a night of sophistication awaits. From the moment you step through the grand entrance, you’re transported into a world of opulence and charm, ready to savor the pleasures of bourbon tasting and artisanal cocktail craftsmanship.

A Taste of Tradition:

The Bourbon Tasting Experience

Bank & Bourbon’s dedication to the art of whiskey is evident in every detail of their bourbon tasting experience. As you settle into the sumptuous surroundings of the elegant lounge, a flight of carefully curated bourbons beckons, each one a testament to the rich heritage and craftsmanship of this revered spirit.

Expert sommeliers guide you through the tasting, revealing the nuances of flavor, aroma, and age that distinguish each selection. From the robust notes of charred oak and caramel in a matured single barrel bourbon to the gentle spice of a small-batch variety, your palate embarks on a journey of discovery.

Bourbon Bliss: Signature Cocktails to Savor

Having explored the depths of bourbon’s character, it’s time to revel in the artistry of Bank & Bourbon’s mixologists. The cocktail menu is a symphony of creativity, seamlessly fusing the allure of bourbon with fresh ingredients and innovative techniques. Here are two must-try bourbon-based concoctions that embody the essence of Bank & Bourbon:

Cobblestone Old Fashioned

  • 2 oz small-batch bourbon
  • 1/2 oz demerara syrup
  • 2 dashes aromatic bitters
  • Orange peel, for garnish

Method: In a mixing glass, combine bourbon, demerara syrup, and bitters. Add ice and stir until well-chilled. Strain into a rocks glass over a large ice cube. Express the oils from an orange peel over the drink, then garnish with the peel.

Velvet Rye Sour

  • 1 1/2 oz rye whiskey
  • 3/4 oz fresh lemon juice
  • 1/2 oz maple syrup
  • 1/2 oz amaretto liqueur
  • Egg white
  • Angostura bitters, for garnish

Method: In a shaker, combine rye whiskey, lemon juice, maple syrup, amaretto, and egg white. Dry shake (without ice) vigorously to emulsify the egg white. Add ice and shake again. Strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a few dashes of Angostura bitters on the foam.

A Culinary Odyssey:

Fine Dining Amidst Elegance

To complement your libations, Bank & Bourbon offers a delectable menu of modern American cuisine. Savor dishes crafted with the finest locally sourced ingredients, thoughtfully paired with your chosen bourbons. Whether you indulge in a succulent dry-aged steak or a delicate seafood creation, each bite is an invitation to indulge in the exquisite.

Conclusion:

A night out at Bank & Bourbon at the Loews Hotel in Philadelphia is an enchanting soiree that celebrates the art of bourbon and the pursuit of refined pleasures. From the captivating bourbon tasting experience to the masterful cocktails and divine cuisine, every moment spent within these walls is an affirmation of luxury and taste. Raise your glass, and let Bank & Bourbon transport you to an era of timeless sophistication and indulgence.

A Luxurious Weekend Escape at Playa Largo Resort: Where Tranquility Meets Exquisite Adventures

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Nestled in the heart of captivating Key Largo, Playa Largo Resort emerges as a hidden sanctuary of opulence and tranquility, beckoning to discerning travelers like myself seeking a weekend retreat that seamlessly blends luxury and nature. Join me as we embark on an immersive journey through a realm where indulgence and the beauty of the natural world intertwine harmoniously.

Arrival in Key Largo:

As the sun painted the sky with its golden hues, I arrived at the doorstep of Playa Largo Resort. Welcomed by the warm hospitality of the staff, I felt an immediate sense of comfort. A glass of chilled champagne awaited me, a prelude to the exquisite experiences that awaited.

The Beach House – My Private Oasis:

Escorted to The Beach House, my exclusive abode for the weekend, I stepped into a realm of pure opulence. Perched on the shoreline, this private villa radiated tranquility. The interiors exuded lavishness, framing breathtaking panoramic ocean views. Stepping onto the terrace, I was greeted by a private pool, inviting me to lose myself in the beauty of the surroundings. Floating in this water while gazing out at the Florida Bay was to be one of my favorite activities.  The three bedroom private villa was a sanctuary. Replete with a gourmet kitchen, my choices for dining were far from limited.  One evening, I had the chef come over and treat me to a five course meal paired with wines throughout, of course. Gastronomic adventures became a highlight of my escape. The expertise of a world-class private chef brought forth culinary masterpieces tailored to my preferences, all within the embrace of The Beach House. From succulent local seafood to international delicacies, each dish was a testament to the artistry of flavor. Then just add water…The only dinner on property that rivaled that experience is called the water table. This is a sunset dinner where the entire meal is served in the bay itself. The table and chairs are anchored in the water, deep enough for your toes to be cooled by the water and passing fish can graze against your swaying feet. All while the sun slips beyond the horizon. It’s a treat for all of the senses to dine at the water table.

Mastery of Mixology:

Intrigued by the art of mixology, I eagerly delved into mixology classes led by skilled bartenders. Set against the backdrop of an elegantly adorned lounge, I unraveled the secrets of crafting signature cocktails. With every sip of my own creations, I embarked on a delightful journey of taste and creativity. Upon returning home, I had to try a few of the cocktails on my unassuming friends and family. The results were pure bartender fantasies fulfilled.

Harmony with Nature:

Immersing myself in the serenity of Playa Largo Resort, I embraced nature’s offerings wholeheartedly. A stand-up paddleboarding excursion allowed me to glide across serene waters, basking in the gentle embrace of the ocean. The sight of graceful manatees drifting by, lent an enchanting touch to an already magical experience.

Sailing into Serenity:

An exhilarating catamaran sailing expedition awaited, promising an exploration of the captivating coastline. Guided by an experienced captain, I sailed through azure waters, the sea breeze kissing my skin. The rhythmic lull of waves against the catamaran and the vast expanse of the ocean painted a picture of serenity and freedom.

A Day of Divine Pleasures:

My weekend retreat reached its zenith with an unforgettable snorkeling trip courtesy of Islander Girl Snorkel. Beneath the crystal-clear waters, I encountered a mesmerizing underwater world teeming with vibrant marine life. Following this aquatic adventure, I indulged in a divine lunch at Marker 88 in Islamorada, where delectable flavors were enhanced by the stunning oceanfront setting.

Playa Largo Resort emerged as my haven of luxury and nature, where every moment was a celebration of opulence and serenity. From awe-inspiring snorkeling escapades to savoring gourmet marvels and mastering the art of mixology, my journey encompassed the very essence of blissful indulgence. As I bid adieu to this paradise, my heart swelled with cherished memories, eagerly awaiting the day I would return to Playa Largo Resort, a realm where elegance intertwines seamlessly with the beauty of the natural world.

www.playalargoresort.com

Swellegant Stays: Fingal Leith, Scotland

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Fingal is an exquisite 22 cabin boutique hotel. This intriguing vessel greets guests with a red carpet experience from the moment they round the bow that juts out of the water onto the streets of Edinburgh from its permanent berth at the historic Port of Leith.

This boat was used for 37 years to secure, alter, maintain, and outfit lighthouses around the entire coastline of Scotland. There is something fairytale-esque about this boat turned luxury floating hotel. We recognized that from the moment we stepped aboard. Through the heavy wooden door adorned with brass kickplate, we submerged ourselves into the nautical world that is this stately yet whimsical escape. After spending more than a week in Scotland’s northern Highlands, exploring and visiting one particular lighthouse, we boarded Fingal, not wanting to know too much beforehand because we love the element of surprise and newness when discovering hotels and destinations. The fairydust was sprinkled as soon as we were handed our cabin keys. Of all the lighthouses around Scotland, we were to be staying in the cabin named Neist Point. This is the lighthouse, a few days prior to coming aboard, we hiked to and explored. Finding out that our stateroom is also named Neist Point felt like kismet. Honestly, being in Scotland tends to do that to you. The whole country feels sort of magical.

The cabins on this vessel are outfitted with cabinetry upholstered in soft leather, king beds floating on burled wood bases, tactile senses fully engaged as you find yourself gazing out of the large round windows (we did not want to call them portholes since those seem de rigueur and tiny) onto the streets of Edinburgh’s waterfront. The boat has its own sense of place. As you drift from the stateroom to the beautifully tiled spacious bathroom, do not be surprised if your fingers run their way across the wallpaper to satisfy the need to take in every morsel of the space with all of your senses. Go ahead, take it all in. For us, this was all a part of the experience. As grand and luxe as she is, Fingal feels inviting, as though she is welcoming you home. Like a beacon in the dark.  

The cabins on this vessel are outfitted with cabinetry upholstered in soft leather, king beds floating on burled wood bases, tactile senses fully engaged as you find yourself gazing out of the large round windows (we did not want to call them portholes since those seem de rigueur and tiny) onto the streets of Edinburgh’s waterfront. The boat has its own sense of place. As you drift from the stateroom to the beautifully tiled spacious bathroom, do not be surprised if your fingers run their way across the wallpaper to satisfy the need to take in every morsel of the space with all of your senses. Go ahead, take it all in. For us, this was all a part of the experience. As grand and luxe as she is, Fingal feels inviting, as though she is welcoming you home. Like a beacon in the dark.  

Renewed and refreshed, take a walk through the engine room. The designers have given guests the opportunity to see the former inner workings of Fingal as they stroll down another red carpet; the engines are neatly and quietly tucked behind plexiglass.  We took this route up to cocktails on the aft deck before heading in to dinner at The Lighthouse Restaurant and Bar. Personal favorite on their stellar cocktail menu is the Yard No. 140. It was so good that we went back home with the recipe and made our own pineapple wine, just to recreate this drink.

She was based out of Oban (yes, the one famous for its delicious scotch) to service the numerous lighthouses around the country. Occasionally requested to accompany the royal yacht Britannia during official visits. Decommissioned in 1999 and the new vessel Pole Star was commissioned to replace her. However, lighthouses changed, and they became less manual and more operated remotely versus being inhabited, so the use of these vessels today has diminished, but their glow has not dimmed. You feel the history and nostalgia wash over you while onboard.

A luxury floating hotel that is permanently berthed on the vibrant waterfront in Edinburgh’s Leith. This is a hotel with all the glamor and style of a superyacht with old world elegance and charm. For the ultimate in unique stays, look here.

Cocktail menu for your enjoyment, but nothing beats having one onboard!

www.fingal.co.uk

www.pobhotels.com

All Aboard The Golden Eagle

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There’s a romance to train travel that few other kinds of journeys can match. And whilst the Orient Express might have caught novelists’ attention, that storied train does in fact have a rival which is not only just as opulent but operates on even more fabulous routes. Put your most glamorous outfit on and climb aboard the Golden Eagle for the trip of a lifetime by private train.

The first and probably only challenge that a Golden Eagle passenger has is deciding where to go. The list of journeys reads like a bucket list of adventures: should I spend the fall in Hungary and then celebrate New Year in Vienna? How about a trip across Mongolia, timed to include the Naadam Festival? Having been fortunate enough to do more than half a dozen of these journeys, the 16-day Caspian Odyssey would be my first pick for a train enthusiast with a love of landscapes and culture. The route takes in the most dramatic and fascinating parts of the Caucasus and Central Asia, from Armenia via Georgia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan, to Kazakhstan.

The first thing I have to tell you about is the train itself, because this magnificent machine is both your hotel and your mode of transport. Decorated in royal blue and gold, it makes quite an impression wherever it goes. The social hub of the train is the Bar Lounge Car, a place not only to meet fellow guests and join together for a pre-dinner drink, but also to watch films, listen to expert lectures, and even take a foreign language class if you fancy picking up a few useful phrases ahead of your sightseeing tours. In the evening, a professional pianist performs on the grand piano, delivering a varied repertoire of jazz, classical music, and more.

You will take your onboard meals in the Golden Eagle’s Restaurant Car, an elegant space with golden curtains and upholstery, pressed white linen on the tables, fine porcelain, and crystal glasses. The Executive Chef creates menus with locally-sourced ingredients, often reflecting the culinary specialties of the region you are traveling through. On the Caspian Odyssey, therefore, black sturgeon and caviar will certainly put in an appearance! The accompanying wines are all chosen by Golden Eagle’s founder, Tim Littler, a true connoisseur.

With so many things to see and do both on and off the train, you probably won’t spend much time in your cabin apart from when you are sleeping, but there will nevertheless be times when you want to retreat and relax in private. The most spacious and luxurious option is an Imperial Suite, which is certainly fit for  royalty, and indeed a number of European royals have been guests of the Golden Eagle. Each suite has a large double bed, two huge picture windows, a lounge area, and an en-suite bathroom with underfloor heating and a power shower. A complimentary bottle of Dom Perignon champagne will be waiting for you on arrival, so you can toast the start of the journey as the train pulls out from the station.

Golden Eagle’s other guests can choose between Gold and Silver Cabins, both of which are comfortable and well-equipped, though the latter is slightly smaller. These cabins are cleverly designed so that the daytime seating area can be converted into a double bed or bunks at night. One of the charming cabin attendants does the change-over for you whilst you are at dinner, so after a night cap in the bar you can simply wander back along the corridor, pull on your pajamas, and sleep. The gentle rocking of the train is your lullaby.

Every morning you will awake in a new destination, and the Caspian Odyssey itinerary includes some truly extraordinary stops, not least the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Mtskheta, Merv, Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand.  Sometimes it is the lesser known locations which make the greatest impression, though: just thinking back to the performance of traditional Georgian polyphonic singing in the ancient  cave city of Uplistsikhe sends shivers down my spine, and I’ll never forget the fierce heat from the flames of the Darvaza Gas Crater, a site nicknamed the Door to Hell.

 

At every stop, expert local guides meet the train and lead passengers on sightseeing tours. The taste of Tbilisi in Georgia will leave you hungry for a return visit because there’s so much to see and you can barely scratch the surface in a day. There is time to explore Ashgabat, Turkmenistan’s capital, with its gilded domes and equally shiny marble facades, and then a couple of days later to contrast that spectacle with the walled museum city of Khiva across the border in Uzbekistan. Khiva feels like a backdrop to a fairytale, with striped minarets looking down on tiled palaces and colorful bazaars. There has been a city here for more than 2,500 years and it was one of the most important crossroads on the Silk Roads, with traders and craftsmen from Turkey and Iran, Russia, China, and beyond all coming here and leaving their mark.

For many of the guests, though, it is the opportunity to visit Samarkand – this year’s World Tourism Capital – which convinced them to book the Caspian Odyssey. Alexander the Great declared it to be one of the most beautiful places he had ever seen, and two millennia later Samarkand still dazzles. Golden Eagle schedules the sightseeing program so that you can visit the Registan twice, appreciating the monuments in daylight and then again after dark when the facades of the three madrassas (religious schools) are floodlit. Along with the visit to the ancient Geghard Monastery in Yerevan, this is one of the most spiritual moments of the tour.

The 16 days go far too quickly, but it is remarkable to think how many different places you visit in this time. The Golden Eagle is the perfect way to travel between them, and the staff have perfected the curation of unforgettable experiences along the way.

www.goldeneagleluxurytrains.com

Luxury on Skye

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It was a day like any other on the Isle of Skye. A slight drizzle, moody skies, and narrow winding roads. Sheep dotted the roadways and the fields along the way. It was a day like any other day besides the fact that it was the day following our elopement and we were riding high on the wave of that excitement and the fairytale we had just created for ourselves. The feelings of elation and magic could not have found a better canvas as their backdrop, as we headed west from the Quiraing where pictures are worth a thousand words. Having just exchanged our vows on the edge of a cliff taking that lifelong leap into holy matrimony, vowing to spend the rest of our days exploring the world together, and embarking on the most remarkable adventures… We made our way over to a place where we would relax and reflect on what all of this meant for us. The special place we made our way to is called The Three Chimneys and the House Over-by. When calling to make our reservations we had the glorious opportunity of speaking to the general manager himself, KD. When making the booking his description of getting to this quaint hotel with a nearly Michelin-starred restaurant whet my appetite for what lay in store. He was more than a person on the other end of the line trying to get us a confirmation number and take a credit card; he immediately became a part of the adventure and an integral part of the story. We chatted about not wanting to arrive too late at night because getting there was an adventure of its own. Getting there would inform the story behind our meals at night, something every guest should take in as it’s an integral part of the experience and  creates an even deeper connection to this place. Our arrival was intertwined with our final destination and we’re glad that we listened. It may also have been because there are no street lights getting to and through this part of the Isle of Skye. The roads are narrow, the sheep plentiful, and the views are jaw-dropping. Getting around the island after dark would be doing it a disservice anyway. KD was giving us Insight from the moment we made our booking. He also hinted at the possibility, based on weather conditions, availability of goods, and how we felt, that we may be able to partake in some really cool activities. He offered to be as involved as we wanted him to be. I’m not sure if this is the service offered to each and every one of his guests but we were delighted to have him as our guide and companion. As soon as we checked in to The House Over-by which is right next door to the restaurant, we were hooked! The split-level rooms housed in this quaintly named set of six luxury suites had glass doors that lead out to a lawn that was edged by a balling brook. Can we say every inch of it screamed fairytale?

The House Over-by is so fitting as the restaurant has had notoriety its entire existence, and staying on as a guest was a natural progression. The ethos of these establishments is bound to its surroundings. With this evident connection to the community and everything that sustains this hotel and restaurant, we inherently became one with it as well. Only moments after checking in we were in KD’s vehicle then headed out with fishing rods and sandwiches in tow. As we wound our way across the island to what he tells us is his very favorite fishing hole, the sights of rugged countryside framed by stone walls, some only thigh high and others crumbling gently into the landscape, captured my attention. The men were chatting about the history, the lochs, and the terrain while I remained deeply ensconced in the mist blurring the lines between the hilltops and sky. The hum of their conversation took a back seat to the narrative that played out in my head and the smile that was sprawled across my face. Once in the car park with rods and reels in hand we set out to walk down a hill. We could see the sea on both sides of the peninsula that we were about to descend as a few families milled about. When we were about a half of a mile down the path I noticed an elevation ahead of us which we were to ascend. Finally, atop that part of our trek, breathless as I was, I could see a rather large lighthouse down another hill to our right and the rugged outcropping of stones to our left. We made our way over to the lighthouse where KD gave us yet another brilliant lesson on the history of the seemingly abandoned building that lay before us called Neist Point Lighthouse. Since 1909 this famous Scottish lighthouse has sat 142 feet above sea level with its tower a proud 62 feet high. Neist Point being the most westerly viewpoint on the Isle of Skye the vistas were spectacular. As David and KD set their minds to catching fish, and I to stepping gingerly, I had plans of keeping my eyes on craggy rocks beneath me and the raging seas ahead. The need for a lighthouse out here was evident. Having the general manager of the hotel as our partner was the icing on the cake. When we finally made It out to the spot where the boys were meant to throw their bait onto their hooks and cast their lines into the roaring seas, I was extremely surprised to see another solo fisherman standing on the precipice of these rocks, happily casting and catching. I nestled my bum in-between two of the boulders and leaned back as I watched them all go after what can only be called the strongest fish in the sea. Any fish that could brave those waves and the turbulent seas had to be a strong swimmer. I couldn’t imagine any life under what I could see on the surface. The waves were so high and so rough that many of them splashed us and got a few things wet.

Let’s just leave it at that because no fish were caught but the adrenaline was pumping, the daydreams were being lived, and that deep connection to the community, the land, and the sea that surrounds The Three Chimneys was calling. KD received a call from the local fishing boat that was coming in with a catch of langoustines. They pride themselves on sourcing the highest quality produce and seafood from Skye and here it was on full display. We were going to meet the boat that had just brought in part of this evening’s dinner. We were going to be seated at the kitchen table which some restaurants refer to as the chef’s table, in the kitchen itself. Watching the chefs at each of their stations prepare this five-star dinner for us, showcasing the relationships that the team at this hotel and restaurant have built, were going to be laid before us later that evening. Backing the Sprinter van up on the dock and having the fisherman disembark “My Amber” to hand us these crates of moving pinkish crustaceans sent another rush through our bodies. I mean, who gets to do this? Dream vacations for us consist of unique experiences and adventures and here we were living it beyond every expectation. More miles and smiles along the way back home to bathe and get dressed for dinner…this story was writing itself. Having seen the dramatic landscapes and seascapes that day I could not wait for the evening’s culinary experience. David and I enjoyed recounting the day as we sat in the sitting room of our suite sipping on the hotel’s namesake gin, before heading out the door and walking across the gravel driveway to The Three Chimneys restaurant. This wasn’t meant to be our honeymoon but it was shaping up to be something quite special. The Kitchen Table held only six and we were joined by a family of four from a town close to Edinburgh to the south of us. This place is such a treat that even for Scottish people it is seen as a magnificent place to dine and stay. We really couldn’t agree more. The connection to the community and the welcoming spirit of everyone on property would keep you coming back time and time again and we will. We took in every morsel of dinner and watched the chefs perform their duties with precision, like members of a marching band, all moving to the beat of the very same drum. Each course of our meal was paired with a wine that tied everything together very much like this community, very much like this meal. The quaintest of towns and the most quaint restaurant ever have made us the most satiated we have been in a very long time. It’s a full circle moment when you can meet the men who caught your food and be sat in the kitchen and watch that food be prepared and then placed in front of you to be savored. It’s a completely new level of dining and enjoying your food, and it’s a new way of staying connected to those around you and what nourishes you.

The next day we went to Dunvegan Castle Where history surrounded us and knowledge poured out of KD as well as the docents throughout the castle. We were walking through history and reliving it at the same time. Even with the brutality we did hear about at one of the dinners that took place in this castle, the history lesson was not lost on us.The richness of the Scottish people in spirit and spirits are something to be treasured and looked back upon with wonderment. You can see how they lived off of the land, the sea surrounding them, and the spirit from within. With that in mind we headed to Talisker Distillery. Speaking of history, this is the oldest legal distillery on the Isle of Skye. It is right on the sea and if you are actually sipping the whiskey you can taste the sea. The history of this distillery dates back to 1830. Today, they produce over 5 million liters a year, all made right here on the island.The stills for Talisker are made by coppersmiths who draw dimensions specifically for the distillery. These dimensions and differing sizes are what help make the unique flavors of this whiskey. In addition to having it be made by the seashore, the water source for Talisker whiskey comes from underground springs which are very sustainable. To show yet another connection to the land; cattle and sheep are fed with the draff which is a byproduct of whiskey making. The connection is evident throughout the island. When you live on an island, sustainability, respect for the land, sea, and each other is paramount. Skye is a beautiful example of that.

By the time we were to be headed south to Edinburgh, we had made more than friends. David and I will never forget that we were married on this beautiful isle. The backdrops, the photographs, and the vistas are second to none but the people and the places are what we will come back to year after year. We like to keep things that are precious to us close to us and we will keep The House Over-by and The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye in our hearts forever.

www.threechimneys.co.uk

www.malts.com/en-gb/distilleries/talisker

A Letter From… Sydney

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Few buildings in the world are as instantly recognizable as the Sydney Opera House, the white, shell-like shape of which dominates Sydney Harbour. You can see it from the ferry, from Sydney Harbour Bridge, from Circular Quay, from The Rocks, and also when I wander out from my hotel, Ovolo Woolloomooloo, which has one of the best locations in the city.

It is autumn in the southern hemisphere now. The heat of the sun has subsided and it is perfect weather for walking, for exploring. Although the Central Business District (CBD) around the harbor has plenty of high rise buildings, I am impressed how much open space there still is, and how much of that space is green. I have spent hours this week in the Royal Botanical Garden, right in the heart of the city; in Hyde Park; and in Wendy’s Secret Garden, planted in recent years by Wendy Whiteley, wife of the famous Australian artist, Brett Whiteley. These parks and gardens are the lungs of Sydney, and combined with the water and beaches they make it an unusually attractive place to live.

I can see why colonial settlers came here, and why they stayed. When they arrived, though, this was Gadigal land, not uninhabited territory as the first European immigrants claimed. It is important to me that my hotel acknowledges the traditional owners, the Gadigal people of the Eora nation, and pays respect to their Elders. I have been trying to learn something about Sydney’s Aboriginal culture, which may date back as much as 60,000 years. The Australian Museum and The Rocks Discovery Museum both explore aspects of Aboriginal history and traditional life, and in the newly opened contemporary art wing of the Art Gallery of New South Wales I’ve had the chance to see some phenomenal, often challenging artworks by Aboriginal and Strait Islander artists. Christian Thompson’s Double Happiness (2021) and Nyunmiti Burton’s Seven Sisters (2020) stole the show and I will be thinking about them long after this trip ends.

My hotel is really something quite special, too. Ovolo Woolloomooloo is in a heritage wharf right on the waterfront, a piece of Sydney’s living history. The designers have kept the best features of the industrial architecture but created within it a modern, luxurious hotel with superb facilities. My room is absolutely huge, boldly decorated in monochrome colors with contemporary art prints on the walls. It is a thoughtful touch that all the guest rooms come with a free goodie bag – you never know when you might get peckish in the middle of the night – and they plant a tree for every direct booking, a sign of how seriously they take their environmental responsibilities. I woke up the first morning here feeling very lazy, so the in-room coffee machine was a blessing, the strong, rich coffee waking me up just enough to wander down for breakfast and properly start the day.

Sydney is very definitely a foodie city, and at Ovolo Woolloomooloo’s Alibi restaurant, chef Shannon Martinez has made a name for herself as a pioneer of plant-based dining.  There is a strong Spanish flair to the menu, where the culinary highlights range from padron and parmesan croquettes and focaccia with black garlic and confit tomato and wakame, to the mouthwatering chamomile spaghettini with summer squash, saffron, and ricotta. The service is spot-on, and Shannon’s food is the perfect foil to Andrea Gualdi’s drinks. An award-winning mixologist, Andrea’s pièce de résistance is surely Calabria’s Bubble, a refreshing cocktail recipe which brings together Tanqueray gin, lemongrass, honey, ginger, and bergamot. I fear to say, I’ve had three of these already! You wine and dine in the sublime surroundings of Alibi’s green glass pavilion, an imaginative space created by Luchetti Krelle’s interior design and architecture studio, so the experience is a complete sensory journey.

This evening I took a gentle walk from the hotel along Woolloomooloo Wharf, which I learned is the longest timbered-piled wharf in the world. ​​It was warm and I sat for a while watching a yacht moor in the marina, and a steady stream of fashionably-dressed people coming and going at the restaurants and bars. I wish you had been here beside me.

Best wishes

Sophie

www.ovolohotels.com/ovolo/woolloomooloo

Swanky Sips: The Lighthouse

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We tried each one of Fingal’s cocktails from the menu and
decided you needed to at least try this at home…

We highly recommend each of these cocktails but definitely try making the pineapple wine at home for Yard No. 140! It’s not easy but it sure is fun.

Swellegant Stays: Prestonfield House Edinburgh, Scotland

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Prestonfield House, Edinburgh. Photograph David Cheskin.06.2021

Take everything you know, or have ever thought, about a wealthy, eccentric, British uncle who owns an expansive stately home chock full of antiques and art, each piece an expression of his eclectic taste, and hold that image in your mind. This is the uncle who collects the very finest furnishings and accessories and has ties to the Royal Family that are akin to a kissing cousin. Imagine doors opening from the porte cochere and you are entering what can aptly be described as an 18th century portrait.  You’ve entered Prestonfield House where rich tapestries adorn sky scraping windows, gilded frames draw you into another dimension as familial paintings offer familiar feelings to those only found when visiting a museum or an exceptionally wealthy British uncle.

They say, “…opulence, theatre and luxury are combined in this unique 5-star hotel in one of Edinburgh’s finest historic buildings.” We say soak all of that in from a tufted velvet chair that you sink softly into in the drawing room of your suite, or from one of the leather couches in a room surrounded by the finest scotch, elk horns, and plush tartan carpeting. Italian plasterwork adorns some of the walls, but your eyes will feast on more than the decor inside. Treacle and Toffee, the resident Highland cows graze quietly in the pasture that edges one portion of the property. Guests are often seen sketching the cows, gazing at the pair, and always with smiles on their faces. The hotel has a history as rich or richer than its current decor. It was once a monastery that had burned to the ground.

In the late Middle Ages, Walter Chepman, printer to King James IV and indeed the first printer in Scotland, acquired Priestfield estate. It was bequeathed to the Hamilton family who became the Earls of Haddington. By the 1660s, the estate became so burdened with debt that it was mortgaged to Sir Robert Murray. It then was sold to Sir James Dick in 1677, whose portrait still hangs at Prestonfield today. His initials also feature in the stonework and the plaster ceilings. As provost of Edinburgh, Dick initiated radical schemes such as clearing Edinburgh’s streets of the excrement at his own expense – the stinking “night soil” was ferried out to enrich the Priestfield soil. When an anti-Catholic student protest escalated into the tragic burning down of Priestfield House, Sir James enlisted the king’s architect Sir William Bruce to design a suitably lavish replacement. He also changed the estate’s rather inflammatory name to Prestonfield.

Playing host to many whose names would come trippingly on the tongue, today it is an exquisite choice for a place to stay. In 2003, it was purchased by Edinburgh restaurateur James Thomson who has spent two decades restoring it to its former glory adding his unique magic, drama and romance that you would expect from the creator of the Witchery by the Castle to become one of Scotland’s most sumptuous hotels.

Only minutes away from the heart of old town Edinburgh, this luxurious property is tucked in the shadow of Arthur’s Seat, the ancient volcano that sits 822 feet above the city.  The hotel is such an integral part of the community that the historic public rooms are great places to enjoy a drink, dine or to hide away and just enjoy the surroundings. Many who are not staying at the hotel pop in and add flavor and charm.

Each suite is a curated collection of art and uniquely named. We were at the top of the stairs in the Allan Ramsay suite, named after the 18th-century Scottish portrait painter. Settle in for more than a few nights and watch yourself easily become accustomed to this regal way of life, if even for a short period of time in this gem of a property. The staff is taken straight out of a book on how luxury hospitality is to be done and service is impeccable. Fine dining has never felt this elevated while being relaxed, and the sommelier that comes with the wine list is absolutely necessary, unless you plan on staying and studying for a few years, you can hang your hat on their every recommendation.

Here you will experience old-world British charm and hospitality. Pro tip: Indulge by preordering dinner while sitting in the Whiskey Room. The level of service is not for the faint of heart. You will want for nothing during your stay, including privacy. The staff appear out of seemingly nowhere just at the moment you need them. It’s punctual; it’s practical; it’s regal; it’s Royal; and it’s what one would be accustomed to if they were to the manor born. We consider it elevated but not pretentious; it’s actually executed perfectly.

The gardens are manicured. The champagne gardening shed is bubbling over waiting to be sat in, and this is only if you can tear yourself away from the comforts of everything else.

The hotel belongs to the Pride of Britain collection of hotels, a collection of the very best independent hotels across the British Isles. Stay in one of their properties and you’ll see that it is aptly named.

With over 50 unique hotels in eight extraordinary regions, they know it can be hard to choose so why not map out the next several trips by honing in on the best and booking a few on each stay? Those are our plans!

www.prestonfield.com

www.pobhotels.com

Swellegant Stays: InterContinental Lyon – Hotel Dieu – Lyon, France

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There are two dramatic buildings dominating the skyline of Lyon, France. The first is the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, perched on the hilltop above the city; and the second is the equally imposing Hotel Dieu, the vast facade of which sweeps along the riverside. Until 2010, this was Lyon’s main hospital, and as one in three Lyonnais are estimated to have been born in the maternity wards here, the building has a very special place, literally and metaphorically, in the city’s heart.

Over the past decade, Hotel Dieu’s function has been reimagined, the buildings opulently restored  and reopened as museums, restaurants, and boutiques. In pride of place is the spectacular Intercontinental Lyon – Hotel Dieu which opened in 2019. The hotel’s 144 rooms and 31 suites look out either onto the river and bridges, or to the quiet courtyards and the basilica behind. As many of the building’s architectural features are protected, they could not be changed, and thus are incorporated into the design. This is why the signature suites are duplex: there is no way to divide the double-height windows, and in any case they make a glorious visual feature.

The truly jaw-dropping moment occurs, though, when you exit the lift and set foot in the hotel’s Dome Bar for the very first time. It was awarded the Best Hotel Bar in the World 2021, and rightly so: I have never seen anything else quite like it. The bar was the hospital chapel, with a ceiling soaring 32m high, forcing your gaze towards the heavens. The height and correspondent acoustics meant that everyone in the hospital could hear mass, regardless of whether they were in the chapel or not. The balconies of the Presidential Suite — the largest in Lyon — open out just below where the ceiling starts to curve, and a dazzling display of flowers marks the sacred spot where once the altar would have been.

The bar’s signature cocktail is Le Dome, a pink praline syrup with vodka, lemon juice, and Champagne, which pays homage to this building and to Lyon. Sip on it to the gentle sound of live jazz, and at the same time admire how the bar’s contemporary interior design features, heating, and sound system are fitted in such a way as to sit or hang inside the room without touching, and thus causing damage to, the historic structure.

www.lyon.intercontinental.com/en

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