the Original, the One, the Only – THE PALM BEACHES

PB 2 Brazilian Court Beach Club Canopy Entrance

The toney setting of this destination is renowned the world over . . .

yet the expanse of America’s first Resort Destination – The Palm Beaches -is not as widely talked about. It comprises 39 towns and cities from Boca Raton and Delray, to Palm Beach and Jupiter! That’s a lot to discover. We charted a course to see more than just the glitz and glamour and came across some very swanky spots along the way.

Home base for us was the Brazilian Court Hotel, right on the island. Its elegant spanish colonial architecture, lush tropical courtyards and fountains combined with warm ocean breezes frame the exclusive Brazilian Court Hotel. This historic landmark infused throughout with Roaring 1920s glamour and boutique intimacy, is a private enclave and a classic Palm Beach luxury getaway — bringing together stunning, high-style accommodations and impeccable service made for an unforgettable experience. With all of the hotel’s amenities, we were tempted to stay in, relax and enjoy nothing else, but in the end we were glad we ventured out to explore.

C.W.S. Bar + Kitchen was one of those understated spots that captured our attention. It is a neighborhood bar and kitchen serving up good ole hospitality. Inside, the scene is mysterious and relaxed, while still remaining upbeat. In the evenings it becomes a place to escape, it’s a downtown night spot where the walls are warmed with wood and brick design, the beverage menu flows with sophisticated spirits and the kitchen is from scratch, so you know it’s good. We took our time enjoying lunch and being captivated by the decor. Imagine stepping into your uncle’s vintage hunting lodge. Think chandeliers made out of deer antlers, oversized leather chairs and settees and a gorgeously stocked bar. We tried almost everything, or so it felt, when we waddled out of there and headed to The Benzaiten Center for Creative Arts.

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This experience blew us away.

The industrial building beside the abandoned train track, hollowed out to become a glass blowing studio was a sight to behold. Once a train depot and now the place I get to live out a dream deferred. After watching the master blowers do their thing, we were educated on temperatures, textures, and techniques. Ready to blow, we created our own bowls that, once slowly cooled in their annealing oven, were shipped to us back home and now sit proudly on the coffee table. We have indeed become that aunt and uncle who have glass bowls filled with hard candy.

With that experience fulfilled, we trotted over to Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens. This cultural immersion stroll had us wending our way through the sprawling acreage devoted to showcasing both traditional and contemporary Japanese culture, both the Museum and Japanese gardens strive to engage a diverse audience through education and inspiration. Opened in 1977, Morikami’s gorgeous outdoor venue features more than 16 acres of expansive Japanese gardens lined with strolling paths, a world-class bonsai collection and lakes teeming with elegant koi, while the museum is home to more than 7,000 Japanese art objects and artifacts, including a 500-piece collection of tea ceremony items. This was a great way to wind down before heading out to dinner.

We wanted to experience the cultural side a little more, we found Dada.This restaurant opened in Delray in the year 2000 in one of the area’s oldest historic homes, the Tarrimore house circa 1924, which is listed as a historic site in Delray Beach. The eclectic interior and revolving artwork complement the creative cuisine, which is sustainably sourced. Dada is non-conformist. It allows food, atmosphere and staff artistic license, so to speak, to explore beyond the normal convention. The staff, ambiance and food were legendary and brought the evening to a fabulous close. On the way back to Brazilian Court for a good night’s sleep, we chatted about things to do the following day.Still yearning for more history, we decided to pedal the past and book an Island Living bike tour, led by Leslie Diver. She took us on a tour of the famed Town of Palm Beach. This outing was a great combo of fun and education. She highlighted the town’s world-class architecture, its colorful history and its residents both famous and infamous. The high-society life of the Island of Palm Beach from past to present was tangible as we pedaled by.

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Spoiled by everything surrounding us . . .

it was time to get up close and personal with the lifestyle of the destination. No more posh way than polo. Trotting off to the International Polo Club Palm Beach is the premier polo destination in the world, hosting the largest field of high-goal teams and the most prestigious polo tournaments in the United States. World-renowned players and polo enthusiasts alike come to Wellington, Fla. each winter season to enjoy their love of the sport in the most prominent and well-equipped polo facility the sport has to offer. We got to experience this Sunday brunch + Polo in The Veuve Clicquot Pavilion. Now we can’t unsee it nor can we ever watch a polo match any other way. Thanks, Palm Beach – spoiled for life.

Capping this evening off was dinner back at the hotel. Not your typical hotel restaurant, but this is Palm Beach where nothing is typical. This was dinner at Café Boulud, which sat at the heart of the historic Brazilian Court Hotel. As we dined, steps from Worth Avenue and the island’s stretches of white sandy beach, the restaurant oozed with a sense of place. Since opening in 2003, the restaurant has become one of Palm Beach’s most coveted dining destinations earning four stars in the Forbes Travel Guide and Wine Spectator’s “Best of Award of Excellence.” The French-American menu, created by Chef Daniel Boulud and Executive Chef Dieter Samijn, parallels that of Café Boulud New York with a touch of South Florida flavor. The steak melts in your mouth. The dining room’s lighting wa a subtle as the flavors that showed off and through in each course. We would be hard pressed to select a favorite item from the menu.

Want to do what we did?

Here are some resources to a few of our favorite things:

www.thebraziliancourt.com

www.cwslw.com

www.benzaitencenter.org

www.morikami.org

www.sub-culture.org/dada/

www.islandlivingpb.com

@internationalpoloclub

@cafebouludpb

Whiskey from the Queen of the Hebrides

Nothing shouts “Scotland” more than single malt whiskeys. And Islay, the southernmost island in the Inner Hebrides, is Scotland’s whiskey making heartland. Nine working distilleries produce world famous brands like Ardbeg and Laphroaig and have earned this wildly beautiful destination the appropriate title of “The Queen of the Hebrides”.

By British standards, Islay is remote. But the 45-minute flight from Glasgow (or the ferry ride from Kennacraig to Port Ellen) to get there feels like a real adventure, and anticipation builds as the rugged island comes into view. I first saw Islay through a break in the clouds, rays of sunshine illuminating the moorland. It is a landscape which has inspired generations of creatives, from chart topping folk singer Donovan to the award winning Japanese author Haruki Murakami. The purpose of my visit, however, was not to inspire some great work of music or literature, but rather to find out what it is about this island (which is less than half the size of Kauai or Oahu) that enables its distillers to produce the finest whiskeys in the world.

I touched down and checked in amongst the dunes of Islay at The Machrie Hotel and Golf Links. This newly renovated hotel occupies an enviable location overlooking seven miles of pristine beach, with the waves of the Atlantic Ocean crashing against the shore. I’m not a golfer myself, but The Machrie’s championship course is one of the top 20 in Scotland — “The Home of Golf” — and the links blend seamlessly with the surrounding terrain.

Whether you are golfing or staying, the epicenter of The Machrie is 18, so named because it overlooks the 18th hole. The vaulted glass ceiling drenches the bar and restaurant in silvery light, and the views down towards Laggan Bay are epic whatever the weather. Seasonal specials such as Loch Gruinart oysters, Port Askaig lobster, and Ardtalla Estate venison grace the menu, which showcases fine Scottish cuisine. And I lost count of the number of whiskeys lined up enticingly behind the bar. Even tasting three or four a night, you would need to stay at the hotel for months if you wanted to try them all.

The history of whiskey making on Islay dates back to 1779, during which time distilling has evolved into an artform. The barman at 18 can give you the perfect introductory course to the different distilleries and their styles, but to deepen your spirits education you need to venture beyond the hotel. Ardnahoe, founded just two years ago, is on the north of the island with Bunnahabhain and Caol Ila; Bowmore, Bruichladdich, and Kilchoman are in Islay’s interior; and on the south coast you will find the three Kildalton Distilleries, Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig. It was to Kildalton that I was headed.

Scotch whiskey has only three ingredients: barley, water, and yeast. But though this sounds like a simple enough recipe, it is the quality of the ingredients and the specific methodology which gives a whiskey its taste. And Islay’s master distillers have spent decades getting it exactly right. They burn the local peat (wetland vegetation which has partially decayed without oxygen, the first step in the transformation of plant matter to coal) to smoke the malting barley. Peat cut on Islay has a distinctive, almost medicinal character due to its phenol content, and you will taste its smoky flavor in the finished drink.

Before the barley is mashed, it is milled, and the Boby Mill at Ardbeg is the oldest working mill of its kind in the world. Coarse rollers crack open the husks of the grains, which are then mixed with water of different temperatures to ferment. It is at this stage that the carbohydrates in the grain convert to alcohol plus carbon dioxide and yeast, and the whiskey gains its strength. The ABV of this liquid is around 45% ABV, but subsequent distillations increase the alcohol content to a fierier 60-75%. It has to be aged in a barrel for three or more years before it can legally be called whiskey, and the process of ageing — including the type of casks which are used — further shapes the final flavor profile.

On paper, it is hard to imagine how this process unfolds. But on a distillery tour it all makes sense, as passionate connoisseurs show and tell you about every step. You might think that one tour would suffice, but each distillery has its own character and history, so in every place you will learn something new.

Were you aware, for example, that Laphroaig was the only spirit not banned during Prohibition? The specific combination of moss and plant roots in the peat gives this whiskey a faint taste of iodine, and hence it was sold in 1920s America as a medicinal spirit. In the late spring and summer (March to September), it is possible to get your hands dirty with distillery staff, helping them cut the peat at nearby Glenmachrie. Physically touching and smelling the peat, and at the same time feeling and tasting the sea spray on your lips and tongue, gives you a multi sensory appreciation of the way in which nature is an essential player in the creation of all of Islay’s whiskeys.

Ardbeg, founded in 1815, is one of the oldest distilleries on Islay. Here, you must put your nose and taste buds to the test as you analyse not the raw ingredients and process, but rather the finished product. The Deconstructing the Dram tour is a must for whiskey lovers as it includes both a nosing quiz and the rarest treat of all: a cask strength tasting in Ardbeg’s warehouse.

No one can drink whiskey all day every day, so when a tour comes to an end it is time to retreat to The Machrie and relax. Taking a walk around the hotel grounds, I realised I was now much more aware of the peat beneath my feet, the crystal clear water in the streams, and the salty taste of the air. Islay’s whiskeys are inseparable from the island’s geography, which is why any visit here — whiskey themed or not — is a totally immersive experience.

Campbell Gray Hotels

Stamba Hotel – Tbilisi, Georgia

Sometimes the most extraordinary buildings are hiding underneath an unremarkable, even ugly, facade. It takes an architect with imagination and vision to see beyond the unloved concrete and realize what could be. Stamba Hotel is a case in point. This former Soviet publishing house in Tbilisi, the vibrant capital of the Caucasian country of Georgia, has been transformed from a drab shell into one of the world’s most remarkable Design Hotels. From every angle, inside and out, there is a feature to grab your attention and make you think “wow!”

Creating Stamba Hotel must have been an architect’s dream: they threw out the rule book, and anything goes. Take the hotel lobby, for example. It is within a multi storey atrium, above which sits the hotel’s glass bottomed swimming pool. Breezing through the space are bellboys in uniforms which would not look out of place on the set of a Wes Anderson movie, all of which are designed and made in Stamba’s in house atelier.

Stamba’s Pink Bar has a definite Wes Anderson feel to it, too. The bright leather chairs at the bar seem to have slipped out of a 1950s diner, as do the black and white floor tiles, and the glitzy chandelier definitely has something of the Belle Époque about it. But the decor across the hotel is certainly not all retro: there are bold artworks by cutting-edge Georgian creatives, oversized windows, exposed brickwork, dark metal, and natural wood. There’s no doubt that this is a 21st century space, and the hotel’s young, hip clientele are the same individuals at the forefront of the international fashion, film, and start-up scenes.

Retreating upstairs, Stamba’s guest rooms are as quirky as the hotel’s public areas. In the Aviator Signature rooms, free standing brass bath tubs are set off by the red artisan made tiles. Natural light floods in through the slatted wooden blinds, casting rays across the crisp white linen on the super king beds.

www.stambahotel.com

Nostalgic for Puerto Rico

Step back in time to a swanky era where cigar smoke permeated the air and live music filled your soul in San Juan. This resort embodies all the classic touches that evoke a sense of place from the moment you enter the lobby. Closer than the forts and cobblestone streets of Old San Juan, the Fairmont El San Juan immediately sets the stage for a Puerto Rican holiday. By day, the dark wood walls and ceiling soften the bright sunlight and invite the luxury traveler to sink into its rich leather furniture and enjoy the opulence of the lobby while being dazzled by the imposing 7,000 crystal chandelier. By night, this same lobby comes alive in a very sophisticated way. Sway your way through the entrance as the beat of live Latin music pulls you deeper into the heart of the resort as though it were your own pulse.

This inescapable sense of place is woven into the fabric of your stay. The pools echo back to a time where sunbathing was glamorous and space was limitless. Float aimlessly, on your back, in the wellness pool while gazing up at the magnificent 300 year old Banyan tree. History is not fabricated here, it is made here. This is a fabulous place to create vacation memories that will last a lifetime. Amenities include Well & Being Spa and Fitness Center, paddleboards, luxury cabanas, signature dining at Caña by Juliana Gonzalez, El San Juan Beach Club, Meat Market, Riva, and the Chandelier Bar. Indulge in modern tropical splendor with old-world elegance in any of its rooms, suites or villas. The beach is only steps away from its pools and cabanas. This island is a hotspot for those seeking relaxation, a touch of history, and a vibrant Caribbean getaway. Fairmont El San Juan is an excellent choice when you are looking for something swanky and elegant for your next Swellegant stay.

Fairmont El San Juan

4 PR Fairmont El San Juan Hotel - Well and Being Pool, Float Fit Class

Take Our Hand – Hometown Staycation

Credit Visit Lauderdale - Fort Lauderdale beach

A few days in Fort Lauderdale is all it took for a full refresh and a nice reentry into travel. Staying away from the usual suspects and indulging in a boutique hotel that is directly on the sand was my goal.

Pelican Grand Beach Resort – one of the only true beachfront, boutique resorts on Fort Lauderdale beach. Being a local, I took an extend staycation right in my own back yard. We know, not everyone is as lucky as to have hometown’s like this, but indulge us here while we share a piece of our paradise with you. Hopefully it will inspire you to venture this way when you can.

Here’s what we did, so you can get a feel for this resort and a glimpse of the town, through our eyes. This will be the written personification of those famous shots on Instagram of the girl reaching back for the guy’s hand and leading him all around the world. Let us put that experience into words by starting out with a stay where we pamper you with a luxurious two-night stay in one of the resort’s luxury rooms and tempt your tastebuds with an indulgent “toes-in-the-sand” dining experience at OCEAN2000 – and take in the design details that make this resort shine. Picture a Southern mansion, inclusive of a wraparound veranda, replete with white rocking chairs and the perfect subtropical yellow hue on its exterior walls…all capped off with a hot tin roof. This resort was everything we needed and the perfect home base to enjoy stunning sunrises on our private balcony, indulging in mouth-watering culinary creations and even floating down Fort Lauderdale’s only lazy river…as f the beach wasn’t entertainment enough. We like having all the options at our disposal.

Wandering Las Olas Boulevard as a guest in our own backyard was different. We took time to see things we had not in years, taken the time to see, and do the things so many flock to this destination to explore. The memories we made during our stay at Pelican Grand Beach Resort will definitely last a lifetime. Here’s what we did on and off-property:

We sipped, savored and sighed our way through the stay, starting our first evening out by grabbing pre-dinner drinks at O2K Lounge overlooking the resort’s tropical pool and the Atlantic Ocean. We enjoyed a few Summer Harvest cocktails just before dinner. We highly recommend those, any time of the year. It’s made with Grey Goose “La Poire” vodka, lemon, raspberries, simple syrup and fresh mint. We are definitely all about the pre-dinner drinks! Dinner on the Verandah gave us the ultimate waterfront dining delight at OCEAN2000. Nights here are not too shabby.

Take our hand and follow us just a bit longer as we head down to the famed Las Olas Blvd., the heartbeat of the city. Brunch at Louie Bossi is something not to be missed. I think nights at Louie Bossi rival the brunch scene, but either way you will be on the right side of fabulous! We can’t make a recommendation on any one item food or bevrage-wise…it’s that amazing. Insider tip: say hello to Mike, the manager and if you’re lucky enough to get Mike the server, you’ve hit the winning streak and I would run out and buy yourself a lottery ticket. These two are the heart and soul of this restaurant, in our humble opinion. The food and cocktails are beyond delectable, the atmosphere is vibrant and intoxicating, but these two make it special. Try to find a more hip, chic, delicious, and entertaining spot on all of Las Olas and let us know when your search ends right back at Louie Bossi.

We are not going to say, “You’re welcome!” Just yet because there’s oh so much to do in this city. Choices, Choices, Choices! There are water sports with options ranging from paddle boarding and kayaking, to para sailing and snorkeling, and kite surfing (for the skilled and the brave). In Fort Lauderdale, there are so many ways to spend a day on the ocean!

After attempting (we won’t say which one of the above) it was time for total relaxation at PURE Spa upstairs at Pelican Grand Beach Resort. This Scandinavian-inspired spa is on the 11th floor of the resort and even before our therapist laid hands on us, we were taken to another level of calm staring out at the ocean views. PURE Spa hit all the right notes from beginning to end and you should book your treatment before you ever arrive. It’s an intimate setting and you will not want to miss out on the experience.

More choices, choices, choices abound. From shopping on Las Olas Boulevard to stroll down Riverwalk Fort Lauderdale to view the lush tropical waterfront located in the middle of an urban metropolis, there are memories to be made all around you. You may just want to do what we did to wind down our stay by lounging by the zero-entry pool, and floating down Fort Lauderdale’s only lazy river then relaxing ocean-side while listening to the crashing waves.

Take our hand, take the trip, make the memories. We hope you enjoy the view of Fort Lauderdale from this resort as much as we did.

by Peta Phillips

www.PelicanBeach.com

New Travel Trends

Retreat to a Teton Tiny House

With sustainably built, LEED-certified “tiny house” cabins, Fireside Resort is Jackson Hole, Wyoming’s most innovative take on resort town lodging with the Teton Tiny House cabin. The resort embraces modern, yet rustic design and presents a fresh approach to luxury lodging. Nestled in a wooded setting at the foot of the Teton Range, the cabins allow guests to get back to nature while enjoying the intimacy of a boutique hotel and the ambiance of their own cozy residence.

Teton Tiny House inside

Channel Your Inner Cowboy

“Yellowstone,” the wildly popular cable television series starring Kevin Costner, has sparked newfound interest in luxury dude ranch vacations. Red Reflet Ranch, a 28,000-acre guest ranch in Ten Sleep, Wyoming, has experienced a surge of guests booking five-figure vacations because of their love for the series. Guests stay in fully-stocked private cabins and enjoy farm-to-table cuisine while participating in equestrian programs, cattle branding, hiking, mountain biking, ATVing, fly fishing, shooting, family-friendly activities and cooking classes.

https://www.firesidejacksonhole.com

North Macedonia

If you were an Ancient Roman or an Ancient Greek, what would you have drunk? New World wines were centuries away from their first vintages, and even the French wine industry was relatively new. If you had wanted something special to impress your guests, there is a good chance you would have looked to the Balkans and, in particular, to what is today North Macedonia. The wine makers here have 4,000 years of experience in viticulture. They supplied grapes to Alexander the Great and his soldiers, and traded large quantities of fine wines with the Romans.

The reason you are unlikely to have heard of — let alone tasted — Macedonian wines is that during the 20th century almost all the production was consumed within Yugoslavia. Few bottles made it further afield, and certainly not to the West. Fortunately for wine lovers, however, there has been a resurgence in wine making and, in particular, the production of high quality wines using traditional grape varieties, since the country became independent in 1991. The Vardar River Valley divides North Macedonia in two, and is now home to more than 21,000 hectares of vines and wine routes which will enable you to explore Macedonia’s long winemaking heritage.

Skopje, North Macedonia’s vibrant capital, sits on the upper part of the river. Inhabited since neolithic times, the city grew rich and influential as it was situated on a major trading route to Athens. Skopje’s Byzantine aqueduct, the medieval Skopje Fortress, and the exquisite structures of the Church of Saint Panteleimon and Aladza Mosque, not to mention the quirky Brutalist architecture of the Telecommunication Centre and the Church of Saint Clement of Ohrid, reveal the multi-layered cultural complexity of the city and its people.

As a wine enthusiast, Skopje is likely to be your first port of call in North Macedonia. Flights land at Skopje International Airport, from where it is just a 20-minute drive to Chateau Kamnik, one of North Macedonia’s newest but most exciting wineries.

Chateau Kamnik was founded in 2004, and within five years of planting its first vines, the winery was already winning international awards, taking the Trophée de Excellence at Les Citadelles du Vin in France in 2009. The accolades have continued stacking up, including a Gold Medal and the prestigious Regional Trophy for Central and Eastern Europe for Chateau Kamnik’s Terroir Vranec 2011 Grand Reserva at the Decanter World Wine Awards in 2013. More recently, the winery won a medal at Syrah du Monde 2020, where it was ranked second on the list of Top Ten World Syrahs.

Currently, Chateau Kamnik has 17 hectares of vines, planted with 5,500 vines per hectare. The vineyards are on the southern slopes of the hills to the east of Skopje, at an altitude of 300m above sea level. The local microclimate keeps the soils warm in winter, whilst the light mountain breeze prevents temperatures rising too high in summer. This is important when daytime temperatures can easily reach 104 degrees Fahrenheit. The vines are immaculately kept and clearly flourishing, which makes for a magnificent view from the modern chateau housing the winery.

Vranec is an indigenous grape in the Balkans, and 90% of all the Vranec vines in the world are growing in North Macedonia. The grape has a dark red colour and grows well in the region’s humid climate and fertile soils. As a wine, Vranec matures to a rich purple-red, with a strong body and wild berry aroma. Many sommeliers note overtones of chocolate, and some even suggest it can taste of coffee or liquorice, though in my mind it is the fruitiness of plums and pomegranates which dominates Vranec’s flavour profile. World Vranec Day is celebrated on 5th October with a wine festival and tastings in Skopje. If you are keen to taste the full variety of Vranec wines, from as many as possible of North Macedonia’s wine makers, this is the event to attend. It is conveniently at the end of the grape harvest in the later summer and fall, which adds to the festive atmosphere.

Although Vranec is culturally important in the Macedonian wine industry, Chateau Kamnik is able to grow and experiment with nearly 20 different grape varieties. Some, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Pino Grigio, will be very familiar; the likes of Greco di Tufo and Temjanika are a little more unusual. The same is true of the wines, which are made here in modern tanks, and then, in the case of the red wines, aged in French and American oak barrels for up to 32 months. The sparkling brut made with 100% Chardonnay, and the excellent Pinot Noir 2017 are a fine introduction to Chateau Kamnik, but it is then well worth being a little more adventurous and tasting something like The Orange, a powerful wine with a hint of honey, which gets its distinctive colour and flavour from six months of skin maceration, followed by several months of ageing in oak barrels.

Within the grounds of Chateau Kamnik, you will find The Hunter’s Lodge, a meeting place for the Knights of the European Order of Wine Knights in North Macedonia. The order exists to nurture and preserve the diversity of European wine culture. Wine lovers are treated to a wine list of over 150 wines, including the very best Macedonian wines. These wines can be enjoyed in an extensive vertical or horizontal tasting, or paired with some superb homemade cuisine. The cold meats, selection of cheeses and salads will stimulate your palate and build up an appetite for specialties such as Chef’s Game or Kamnik Beef Steak.

There is simple accommodation at The Hunter’s Lodge should you wish to spend the night on site, but the best option is to stay nearby at Hotel Arka, a 5* property situated alongside Skopje’s Old Bazaar. The commercial centre of the city since at least the 12th century, the Old Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest marketplaces in the Balkans. The hotel’s views across the churches, mosques, tombs, and clock tower of this historic and undeniably photogenic part of the city are superb.

Hotel Arka’s rooftop bar is the place to be as the sun sets over Skopje, though the seventh floor Panoramic Bar is a close contender. Minarets and domes are silhouetted against the roaring, fiery sky, and then the twinkling lights of the city turn on. On a warm summer’s evening, with just the hint of a breeze, I can think of nothing I would rather drink than a glass of Chateau Kamnik’s orange wine, and nowhere that I would rather be.

www.chateaukamnik.com

www.hotelarka.com

Belmond Charleston Place

Belmond Charleston Place, Charleston South Carolina – an Swellegant Stay “the indefinable sense of style that makes us swoon: swanky, swell & elegant’.

Belmond prides itself on gifting its guests with an intense sense of place while being a secluded sanctuary, at each of their exclusive destinations and experiences. They can only be summed up as such because the brand is synonymous with luxury yet not the expected definition of the word. Their portfolio is brimming with hotels, trains, boats, safaris, and restaurants; all with a singular feel of total immersion into opulence and local hospitality at the highest level. A prime example in North America is the Belmond Charleston Place. Visiting South Carolina there are a number of accommodation options where one can lay their head, but choosing Charleston Place shows that one knows exactly what they are looking for in the destination. True Southern hospitality and all of its charm are found within the walls of this gorgeous hotel. If the dual staircase and lavish chandelier are meant to set the tone upon arrival, then, mission accomplished. Regardless of your persuasion on any front, you will swoon over the attention to detail and nods to history within these walls that create a warm and welcoming environment. In this iconic urban sanctuary, pick the right room and floor and see the remnants of history beneath your balcony. The city may have its own tales to tell but the memories made at Charleston Place will be uniquely yours.

Whether your accommodations are on the Club Level or any other, know that Belmond takes every moment of your stay into thorough consideration. As they say, “Sleep is an indulgent affair.” So, as you drift off from your day’s adventures, you’ll still feel surrounded by lavish amenities as the supple nature of their bed and bedding envelope you for a sound night’s sleep. Experience Charleston from this privileged perch and you’ll never look at history the same way again. The Charleston Grille, Palmetto Cafe, Thoroughbred Club, Clocktower Terrace, or Market are all enough to keep you satiated and stop you from heading out on the town for cocktails or meals, but what lays beyond the classic brick walls of this hotel is what may have enticed you to the city. What will keep you coming back is Belmond Charleston Place.

www.belmond.com

Eastbury Hotel Sherborne, England

Built as a gentleman’s residence in 1741, The Eastbury Hotel is in the lively historic town of Sherborne in Dorset, England. Luxurious and elegant, and retaining its splendid Georgian features, it is set within lovely walled gardens.

First opened as a hotel in the 1930s, The Eastbury was acquired by Lana de Savary in 2018. It has been totally refurbished as a 5-star luxury boutique hotel, with individually chosen furnishings and artworks. Choose from rooms in the house, in the garden suite with its four poster bed and whirlpool bath, or in one of the delightful eco-friendly stand-alone Victorian Potting Shed suites, which offer privacy and seclusion in their own gardens. The latest addition to the property is a self-catering cottage for six, adjacent to the hotel, with beamed ceilings and inglenook fireplaces in the living rooms, three luxurious bed and bathroom suites, and its own delightful garden with hot tub.

The hotel boasts the multi-award winning Seasons Restaurant for fine dining, including an innovative tasting menu with paired wine flights and locally sourced foods. In good weather, al fresco dining on the sunny terrace is a delight, and for the Christmas holidays you can book a decadent seven-course feast.

Within the hotel grounds is hidden the spa with its hydrotherapy pool, sauna, steam room, mini gym, and an outdoor hot tub. The grass-covered building is eco friendly, and in appearance it is reminiscent of a hobbit house in The Shire! More active guests at the hotel can play a traditional game of croquet on the lawn, and keep the family entertained with badminton, table tennis, and giant chess.

Within a short walk of The Eastbury Hotel and open to the public, is the Old Castle, a picturesque ruin once lived in by Sir Walter Raleigh. Sherborne Castle is nearby, too: it is a 16th century Tudor mansion set within a 1,200 acre park overlooking and its own lake.

www.theeastburyhotel.co.uk

A Letter From Asia Borneo

orangutan-borneo — two female Proboscis Monkeys, Nasalis larvatus, hiding behind a tree trunk, Sabah, Malaysia.

Greetings from Malaysia,

There’s a new man in my life! I just had to write and tell you about him. He’s irresistibly cute and agile, with a shock of auburn hair, and such a cheeky smile. His name is Archie. And we share so much in common: 97% of our DNA, in fact!

Before I lead you on too far, you should know that Archie is not my latest squeeze, but an orangutan. I have adopted him from the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre in Borneo. His mother was unable to care for him, so he had to be hand-reared, but now he is making good progress and learning essential orangutan skills so that one day he might survive in the wild. Coming to Malaysia, I wanted to learn about the rainforest, the creatures which live here, and the conservation challenges they face. It has been an eye opening experience.

Borneo is the largest island in Asia, and it supports one of the oldest rainforests in the world. Thousands of species of animals and plants are endemic. The orangutan is the most iconic, of course, but there are native elephants, rhinos, and cloud leopards, too. Deforestation for palm oil plantations, and other forms of human encroachment, threaten their habitats and call into question whether or not they can survive for another generation. Around the coast, proboscis monkeys with their oversized noses move through the upper reaches of the trees, there are sea turtles on the beaches, and below the waves the marine creatures are just as diverse as on land. In fact, it is estimated that 75% of all known ocean species can be found in what’s known as The Coral Triangle. NGO Reef Check Malaysia is preserving this precious resource and helping damaged areas regrow.

I spent the first part of my trip in the rainforest of the Danum Valley Conservation Area, but now I am just off the northern tip of the Borneo in the Tunku Abdul Marine Park, looking out across the South China Sea. I am staying at Gaya Island Resort, where a small village of exquisitely designed villas cascades down to the water, the forest cloaked mountains — including Mount Kinabalu — dotted along the horizon. The only way to get here is by speed boat from Jesselton Point, and we raced across the water at quite a lick!

As the marine park is a protected area, sustainability and conservation are top priorities. I’m a guest in this spectacular, pristine natural environment, and it is my duty to tread lightly.

Gaya Island has its own marine centre which rescues, rehabilitates, and releases turtles. I saw a green sea turtle when I was snorkeling, and one of the highlights of my stay so far has been going down onto the beach at night to watch the turtle hatchlings scrabbling their way down to the water’s edge. Green sea turtles are endangered, and the hawksbill turtles are critically endangered, so it is a real privilege to be able to get close to them, and to meet the marine biologists who are responsible for protecting them.

I love being so close to the water. From the moment I first wake up, I can hear the splashing of the waves. Each morning I sit out on the veranda drinking my coffee and inhaling the sea breeze before wandering over for breakfast. I find this place incredibly peaceful. Part of it is the setting, yes, but there’s a zen feeling to the design, too, and the staff who work here make everything seem effortless. It is their mission to rebalance body and soul, and already I feel all my cares and stresses drifting away.

If I ever go missing, look for me on Gaya Island.

With love,

Sophie

www.bit.ly/JSBorneo

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